Brian the extraordinaire

A Little Progress, 7 hours over 7 days
 

I started by making a temporary stand from poplar. The kit came with nice brass pedestals. I found some bolts that fit them, drilled holes in the hull and epoxied nuts in place.
 

The laser-cut parts for the superstructure popped right out of the surrounding wood, but they didn't quite fit in the space atop the resin hull. I had to do some cutting and sanding to make them fit. The resin hull seems solid but it sands like Styrofoam and is very easy to shape.
 
And that is the end of the wood work on this model.
 

The superstructure will be covered with photo-etched parts with lots of holes, so I painted the interior black.
 

Well, it's something I've wanted to do for years and never had the opportunity. In the holiday season I get at least a chance to make a start.
 
Steven

Hi sorry I am back again.
 
Decks 197A and 197B  are now in place ( just dry fitted only ).
 
I have got to say how well the parts fit together , little adjustment at all.
 
Very happy with this kit so far.
 
Denis.

Well the 'knitting' is now done with all ratlines finished   That is milestone completed and another started with a good start made on the jib and spritsail yards.
 
   
 
cheers
 
Pat
 
 

After gluing the metal bulkhead on I thought it would be a good time to plank the main deck - it will only be planked from the metal bulkhead forward because the deck behind it will be enclosed by the other decks & won`t be visible. The wood supplied for the decks is walnut ,which is a little too dark for the decks. I decided to try the soaking in bleach method to lighten them up. After soaking in bleach for 45 minutes & then rinsing very well with water I set them on some old towels to dry. After drying they had turned to a very light gray - much better. I was very pleased by the way they turned out. The first picture is before & after bleaching.
 

 

 

 
Mark
 
 
 
 
 
 

Started working on the cast metal bulkhead which is located under the quarter deck. The detail on the casting is pretty good,but I din`t want to just paint the windows.I got out my little mini drill & micro files & proceeded to open up the window openings. It was a little time consuming but not too difficult. Then I painted it with a medium brown with white window frames & gold trim.I thought it came out pretty good.
 

 

 

 

 
Also I want to thank every one for there looks & likes. Thanks also to the other RW builders - I refer to your build logs frequently. And a big thanks to Pirate Pete for his very helpful interpretive info. Also forgot to mention I used a product called Micro Kristal Klear to make the window panes.
 
Mark

I've seen this picture of the Santa Caterina do Monto Sinai (c. 1520) so many times but only just really had the penny drop.
 
The Mainsail and bonnets have letters of the alphabet written on them. If I'd thought about it at all it was that it was like the annotated pictures of ships from the 17th century with each number telling you what part of the ship/rigging it was.
 
But now I think about it I realize it was for the crew to know which way to attach the bonnets to the course - like when you make a cardboard figure - join tab A to slot A, tab B to slot B etc.
 
Simple when you think about it, but it's stared me in the face all this time without me realizing.
 
Steven 

Hello all,
 
Many good things have already been stated concerning this excellent book.  I hope you don't mind if I add a few more.
 
BobF
 
The Rogers Collection of Dockyard Models
At the U.S. Naval Academy Museum
First & Second Rates
Volume I
by Grant H. Walker
 
Distributed by: Sea Watch Books, LLC, Florence, Oregon
www.seawatchbooks.com, seawatchbooks@gmail.com
 
In his opening remarks, the author, Grant Walker, states that it took eleven years to assemble the information that is the basis for The Rogers Collection of Dockyard Models, Volume I, and the several future volumes that are planned.  There is no doubt that from the naval historian’s and ship modeler’s perspective, it was well worth the wait!
   In this initial volume, Walker describes, in detail, the results of his research on the seven Royal Navy three-decker 1st and 2nd rate ships contained in the collection.  These models represent vessels that served from the mid 17th century into the 19th century, and, needless to say, they are magnificent!

   This is the first comprehensive study of Roger’s models since 1946, when the Naval Academy published a pamphlet outlining the entire collection.  Revised editions were printed on four occasions, but only the photographic content was changed.  In every case, the illustrations were in black and white.
   In what will be the standard approach for all the volumes in this series, each featured model is described in detail, along with its provenance, and a brief history of the actual ship or class that the model represents.  Every segment begins with a table that offers comparisons between the dock yard model and the vessel the model represents.  In some cases, the Establishment applicable to the model’s period of representation, is incorporated into the tables.
   The first model discussed is the impressive First Rate, Britannia, 100 guns (1682/1700).  Walker immediately adds intrigue by stating that there is considerable reason to doubt whether this model is actually Britannia.  He offers compelling reasons why this may be the case, in spite of the many visual elements that compare favorably with contemporary images, and the ship’s name appearing above the topgallant roundhouse entrance.
 
As is the case with the other models in this book, a detailed construction analysis is provided.  It includes CT scans, X-rays and numerous below-deck photos taken with an arthroscope.
   The next model presented by Grant Walker is the Second Rate St. George, 90 guns (1701).  Although comparable to Britannia in terms of guilt ornamentation, it is the model’s remarkable suite of original masts, yards and rigging that set this Second Rate apart from other contemporary dockyard pieces, including those featured in this book.  Nevertheless, Walker opts to concentrate on the actual ship’s history, as well as the model’s provenance, and construction details, which feature numerous below deck photos.

   Several excellent illustrations of the St. George’s rigging, accompanied by brief descriptions, are provided, but Walker prefers to defer to the two classic works by Dr. R. C. Anderson, for those interested in learning more about warship rigging during this period.
    The next chapter features an unidentified British Second Rate Ship, c.(1715-1725).  Based on the model’s provenance, this may be the most controversial model in the Annapolis Collection.

  Extensively restored in 1923 to include the upper decks, quarter galleries, masts, yards, rigging and decoration, this dock yard model is a far cry from its original appearance when purchased by Colonel Rogers.  Walker’s explanation for the controversy, as well as his efforts to identify, and rationalize the appearance of the model, makes for some great reading!
   Although referred to as Model No. 39 in the Rogers Collection, the British First Rate Royal William, 100 (1719) was actually the first dockyard model purchased by Colonel Rogers.

  The provenance of this magnificent ship model is unknown prior to the Twentieth Century.  Yet, the author provides an intriguing, and somewhat bizarre, tale of how Royal William was eventually obtained by Rogers.  The subsequent detailed analysis of this model, accompanied by a wealth of outstanding photographs is worth the cost of this book by itself!
   The author states that Model No. 70, the British Second Rate Princess Royal, 90 (1773) is considered one of the finest examples of the ship modeler’s art in the collection.  Yet, as little as twenty years ago, this remarkable piece was literally falling apart.

  An extensive rebuild by Rob Napier, which is the subject of another SeaWatch book, brought this beautiful model back from the brink of disaster.  The story of this model’s provenance is most noteworthy, while the photos of the frieze work and carvings are exceptional, to say the least.
   Apparently, contradictions among models as old as those in the Rogers Collection are quite common, and the British Second Rate Duke, 90/98 (1777) is no exception.

  Grant Walker provides some intriguing theories concerning the construction of this impressive model.  Arguments are also provided that in spite of some notable facts to the contrary, this Second Rate does indeed represent the Duke.  Also, a rarity among British models in the collection, is the full set of furled sails this model features.
   The British First Rate Royal Adelaide, 110 (1828) is the most recently built model showcased in Volume 1, and it is probably the most radical.  The unique bow and stern are discussed in detail, with a contemporary diagram of the stern gun arrangement being provided by the author.

   Walker’s analysis of the slipway and ingenious case will leave the reader amazed.  He also explains why, in spite of the First Rate’s rock-solid provenance, this model still presents a few mysteries.
   The book concludes with six appendices.  They are Dockyard Models Defined, Colonel Roger’s Biography, Charles Sergison (a previous owner of Rogers Collection models), Scales & Measurements, Caretakers of the Collection, and a brief explanation of the collection’s Catalog Numbers system.
   The Rogers Collection of Dockyard Models, Volume I, features an oversized 11 3/4x10 format with hundreds of high definition photos, printed on quality paper.  This book is a remarkable achievement, and would be an excellent addition to the library of any maritime historian or model ship builder.
 
 
 

Hello Brian. That is what i was trying to say in my post # 10 :-)
 
Harry

http://www.abc.net.au/news/2015-12-06/spanish-galleon-san-jose-found-with-3-billion-of-treasure/7005266
 
cheers chris
 

Well I can vouch for Cornwall model boats. The plates I ordered were very quick in getting here and (at that time) were less than half the price of Modeller's Shipyard (including shipping)

Vossey
 
I bought copper plates for my current build - HMB Supply. After a lot of searching, I found it was cheaper to buy them from Cornwall Models in the UK. That was when the Aussie Dollar was worth more though. Modeller's Shipyard will sell them to you but they are hideously expensive.
 
Float A Boat in Melbourne may have them. They are not listed in their catalogue but it s out of date. It would be worth calling them. Nice people to deal with.
 
http://www.modelshipyard.com.au/fittings/copper-plates-sheathing/

Take the plunge to the dark side, Bug - you'll never look back! 
 
John

you can buy really good professional painter's masking tape with super advanced edge lock technology now days. make sure the wood is sealed so the paint will not absorb into it too much. also, brush away from the tape, not towards it. this tape is expensive but it works 100%.
 
cheers chris

Hi Vossey
 
Link below.
 
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9JWlSFzJ8uA
 
Steve

Hi Vossey
 
Modellers Shipyard/Modellers Central has put out a DVD on the art of hull coppering. I bought it and found it OK for a beginner. I think part of the DVD is on YouTube. You may find it useful.

My third build will be the SMS Emden. It has a history for us Aussies I suppose.  I won't go into the history as there is the whole of the internet for that.
 
Revell brought out a twin kit recently which will be good if I stuff up something, as I don't intend on building both it and the Dresden. There are a lot of open source builds on the net for this kit, most of which seem to be strait out of the box.
 
I managed to purchase the last set of draughts in 1/200 on the internet for Peter Huff's 1995 publication. I had a look at the Kagero book and yet again, their research leaves a bit to be desired, as the even the photos don't match.  
 
The kit will need a LOT of bashing. Thus more internet shopping for bits and pieces.  Heaps of work, but that's the joy of it.
 
I got the Eduard Emden photo etch set for a start. A lot of the sprues look like they have been put in  an oven as they just look blurry with very little detail. There will be very little of the original kit used but the hull is nice.
 
I'm thinking six or more months, given my Varyag has a lot more detail but also a lot more commercially available extras. This era is not well represented for after market.

For me the choice was too, too difficult so I bought the lot.

Brian good things are worth waiting for ha-ha.
 
Denis.

I made an error in the building sequence and I should have installed the main mastpartner earlier. Now I got a bit into trouble getting it in at this stage. I had to take a shortcut and omitted half lapping the carlings under the deck beam. After the gratings are installed this won't be visible, but I'm confessing this error anyway :-)
 
Getting the pump tubes right was a bit of trial and error but after not to much work they were in place without to much hassle, I guess I was lucky today. I added iron bands at the end of the tubes from thin paper.
 

 

 

 

 
Remco
 

everything covered on Torrens. who has time to put plugs back in?
 
chris

Hi All
 
Looking at the kit again, the gratings are brass looking.
 
Sorry I did not like them that much, so ordered some new wooden ones.
 
I think they will look a lot better than the brass ones.
 
I did order them over size so will cut them back a bit to fit.
 
Denis.

Decks are made of maple with mahogany veneer between the 2 by 7 mm planks.

A nice lineup of pre-Dreadnought kits in 1/200 might even tempt me to get back into plastic.  Until I saw the price, anyways.

WASHINGTON GALLEY  PART 8 CANT FRAMES
 
 
HI ALL
ABOUT TIME FOR ANOTHER UPDATE. BEEN DISTRACTED BUILDING FURNITURE FOR ONE OF THE LADS I WORK WITH AND STARTED BUILDING ANOTHER PROJECT......18 CENTURY LANTERN CLOCK .
 
HOWEVER ITS TIME TO GET TO GRIPS WITH THE FORWARD CANT FRAMES.....AWKWARD LITTLE SWINES!!!!
 
FIRST PAIR HAVE BEEN SET.....WAITING FOR THE GLUE TO DRY....NEXT TWO PAIRS WAITING TO GO IN.
 
PHOTOS ATTACHED.....COMMENTS ,CRITISMS...HOWLS OF DERISON GREATLY APPRECIATED!!
 
THE ONE THING I WILL BE DOING IS REPLACING THE LOW ENERGY BULB IN THE SPARE ROOM WITH AN LED BULB...A BRIGHT WHITE ONE......IT SEEMS THAT THE CURRENT BULB IS TOO YELLOW HENCE THE CRAPPY PHOTOS.
 
 I ALSO REPLACED THE PREVIOUSLY MADE WOODEN JIGS WITH SOME MADE FROM 5MM ACRYLIC,IT WAS LURKING IN A CORNER AT WORK SO IT HAD TO GO!
THE WOODEN ONES WERE FAR TOO CUMBERSOME TO FIT IN THE FAIRLY TIGHT SPACE AT THE BOW,
 
THATS ABOUT IT FOR NOW........MORE CANT FRAMES TOO FIT!
CHEERS.....MICK