Brian the extraordinaire

If she's pink, does that make her the Victoria?

Hi All
 
Quarterdeck has now been planked, sanded and one coat of satin varnish.
 
Denis.

The first thing I need to point out - it is not April 1st!
 
As many will know, HMS Victory is undergoing a major refit and renovation at the moment. As part of this process, there has been some intense research to determine the exact colours she wore at Trafalgar. She has now received her new coat of paint, and this has left many somewhat surprised. Despite wearing the common yellow ochre for many years, her stripes are now a pale pink ("salmon", "peach", "pale red" depending on your perception). This is not a joke - the best estimate is this is the colour she showed in 1805. A smaller change is that the font used for her name on the stern will also be modified.
 
I guess this poses a challenge for all those models of Victory out there, especially those that have taken great pains to depict the ship as she was at Trafalgar. UK readers can see a TV report on the Meridian TV website, but I don't think that is available outside the UK.
 
I see sales of masking tape and pink paint rising sharply!

As someone who has been toying with the idea of buying a milling machine for quite a while, but being unsure if I would have enough use for it or not, I will be following this thread avidly. Keep the ideas coming.

Goodoh George and Greg - thanks.
 
A small update - I had a Nameplate engraved over the weekend, and made a stand for it :
 

 

 
 Danny

It actually costs much less to buy it from Chuck. You would have to wind A LOT OF ROPE before it becomes economically feasible. Not to mention, having to shop for thread, learning to use the machine, botching up runs, and making the thread. For some on MSW, it may be worth it. But for me, I would much rather buy. 

Oil dried up, and the boat tied in place. Model is complete. Picture quality is poor. But I will do a final photo shoot in daylight. Then will be visible the real model view .
 








 
Regards,   Antanas
 

Thank's Nirvana.
Now I sanded the hull. Sandpaper with the grit 100, 150, 220 and 400.
 




 
Removed from the plate wales plank. They are from the pear. But the hull are from the pear too. Hmm... The pear wales on the pear look not very good... And I desided to change the plank color to the black. For this I used the wood finish MINWAX, color ebony. But the result is not good... The planks become not black, but the dark grey... So, I try to use the cheap black ink. At last the result is very good.
 




 
Glued wales. End sanding and corrections. In some places paints again. And the finally result.
 






 
Regards, Antanas
 
 
 

Can't you cut just about an inch of one edge so you can experiment? Or use the underneath side? Or maybe buy a small piece so you can experiment?
Several oils will bring the grain out: Tung oil or Boiled linseed oil. I have used the later extensively in my pen turning activity, not so much tung oil. In any case, experiment is a must whenever you are attempting something like this for the first time.
 
Maybe someone with more experience can help more!

Once again my thanks go out to Brian, Ed, Dave, Popeye, Jeff, Greg, John, Carl, Evan, Russell, Brian and Tom for all the comments .
 
Brian - better late than never .
 
Ed - thanks for the insight. I thought the same myself.
 
Dave, Brian and Tom - I'll be finishing off the masting and rigging on a "Norske Lowe" for someone else. This shouldn't take me more than about a month. Following that will be my first attempt at a ship in a bottle to quieten all those who have asked me if I'd ever built one . Then I'm thinking about making a Cross-section of Vulture's Midsection which I'll also donate to the museum that Vulture's going to.
 
 
How so? All the information I've found about it attributes it to Thomas Birch   .
 
 Danny

For white glue I usually squeeze a blob onto the lid of a Chinese take way container. When it dries it just peels off and the lid is as good as new. I apply it with a small awl. I use CA glue very sparingly but when coppering a hull I turn a glass jar ( most of which have a concave bottom) upside down and squeeze a few drops in the middle. I use the old awl to apply this as well.

Thank you Brian Yes I think I am up to date for now,number 94 I think .Definitely so much more than was just in his DVD.There is also Alex Banarov's build on the Ukranian forum of Pantelemon Victoria that is also a photographic step by step of his techniques.Some techniques only really applicable to his preferred scale of 1/36.Planishing nails flush on the scales I work to would make me cringe
 
Kind Regards
 
Nigel

Hi,
I use thermal transfer method for applying decoration on the sails.
Sails should be sewn also within the decoration area.
 
Tadeusz

Having seen this saw in Clare's post http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/10860-yakatabune-by-catopower-woody-joe-124-scale-small/page-2#entry330886, I decided to order one from Zootoyz.jp.
 
It took about 10 days to arrive from Japan. 
 

 
The saw is small and with a very narrow blade. Here is a comparison with my x-acto razor saw.
 

 
These are some sample cuts on 1/8" sq basswood. The HISHIKA is on the right.
 
The saw came very well packed. It was inside 2 heavy plastic sleeves then wrapped in this cloth, then bubble wrap, all in a box. 
 

 
I'm not sure of the significance of this guy .
 
The saw is not cheap, about $25 with shipping, but is very nice and well worth the money.
 
Zootoyz were very helpful and responsive.
 
Here is the link to the site http://zootoyz.jp/contents/en-us/d141_HISHIKA_Super_Fine_Cut_Saw_.html
 
Richard.

Thanks for looking in again George, Tom, Brian, Robin and Druxey.
 
George - I'm using THIS method. See below.
 
 
I had it in the dim dark recesses of my mind that I'd made them, but they weren't in the tray of "Finished Pieces". For some reason they were in the one alongside it .
 
 
Actual work on the model commenced on Wednesday August 17 2011. It's 4th Anniversary is next week . I spend an average of 6 hours per day on it, and I've had about 3 months in total not working on the ship in that time. That's about 1370 days at 6 hours per day - 8,220 hours    .
 
Let's see - at $25.00 per hour (labourer's rate) that makes it worth $205,500.00 plus parts. Make me an offer .
 
Robin - I thought it a bit strange myself. I followed the directions in TFFM, so I guess they must be right.
 
Druxey - I agree about the centre light. I left it open to show the Rudderhead a bit more clearly .
 
 Danny

Thanks for the comments Robin, George, Spyglass, John, Pat, Mark and Greg .
 
John, I was thinking ahead (well sort of) - when I fitted the quarterdeck rail I wasn't sure if I'd fit the hammock cranes as my silver soldering skills at the time were only in their infancy. By the time I'd got around to the shrouds I'd forgotten all about the cranes   .
 
Flags
 
I have made my own flags before - on my last two models I used Silkspan with reasonably good results. Unfortunately it seems like I've left the silkspan at my daughter's place, so I thought I'd have a go at using the Egyptian Cotton which I fortunately DID bring with me, and used Artist's Acrylic paints. I figured all I had to lose was a couple of day's work. If they were a failure I would buy some from Modelflags.com who from all accounts supply some pretty good ones.
 
I started by drawing the Jack using AutoCAD. I then printed it out twice, drew up the borders for the Ensign and used the 2nd Jack in it's top corner. I taped both of these to the tops of a couple of flat containers so I could turn them in whichever direction I wanted when doing the hand painting. Then I taped the two pieces of (oversize) cotton over them. Last thing for this step was to go over the outline of each section with a pencil as they were only just visible :
 

 
I painted the White areas first, being careful to stay inside the lines as much as possible - from previous experience I'd found that it was better not to have to paint over the white, even with dark blue, as it lightened considerably and needed at least three coats to cover sufficiently :
 

 
After laboriously painting the red cross without using any masking I had the idea of using Tamiya Masking Tape for the blue areas. I tried it out on a 3rd piece I was painting for any experiments I might have needed - it worked very well, considering I was painting on a medium that it wasn't really designed for. There was a small amount of "bleeding" in some areas that needed a bit of touch-up, but it was much easier than trying to free-hand the lot  . Then I removed both flags, turned them over, and repeated the process for the other side :
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I cut the borders with a new Xacto blade and steel rule. The painted edges cut cleanly, but the small border I left for the Hoist Cloth tore out a bit as the weave of the cloth wasn't quite exactly square to the flag. A tip to avoid this is either paint the band white or use dilute PVA on it :
 

 
 Danny

Hey guys it's 11months since I last posted on this build log I've moved 2 hours away new job got back with the mrs a new baby on the way and started collecting the mallard and u96 uboat partworks witch I will start build logs for them soon and just received a full set of the endeavour partwork for $350 delivered

Hi Ulises
 
I have been using Testors Dullcote Lacquer  for finishing on my hull,decks and other wood surfaces on my ships. You can leave it flat finish as brushed on,or you can sand and buff it with a paper towel to get up to a shinny finish. 
I have had nothing but good results as long as you do the following.
 
If painting it over prior finishes,test them out because the lacquer can soften up and make the other paint bleed into the clear lacouer.m Always test it out with samples.
It dries fast and you can make multiple coats in one day as long as you let it dry for a couple of hours in between coats-again test it out to make sure your local temp and humidity doesn't effect the drying times.
 
And if you will be painting over this clear coat,test out what you will be using first.
 
I like it because it dries hard and can be sanded and then buffed out to any degree of flatness to gloss. I have used it over swiss pear,boxwood,basswood,walnut,mahogany. It brings out the color in the wood without adding ant itself.
 
Try it out.
 
The photos are of my 1/80 Mary Rose from Jotika. The hull is planked with boxwood and has 4 coats of brushed on Testors Dullcote Lacquer,which was lightly sanded and rubbed out with just a paper towel sheet.
 
Boxwood used is from Jason at Crown Timberyard. Great wood and FAST shipment.
 
Keith

Hi all
 
just a few pic.
 

 

 

 

 
Michael
 

Hi All
 
I have made a new forecastle support  beam.
 
I decided to glue some walnut strips to the face.
 
I have only dry fitted the beam and forecastle deck.
 
Denis.

Hi all
 
I have done one cannon to see how it looks.
 
Washed it in Hydrochloric Acid 50% water 50% acid, washed in water for half an hour.
 
I then dried it off.
 
Got a cotton  bud and applied the Brass Black.
After 10 minute's I washed it in clean water.
Dried it off, then a second coat of brass black.
 
I am not that happy with what I have got,
 
I think I should have used fine wire wool before the first coat of brass black.
 
Will have to work on this one before I do more.
 
Denis.

I’m trying to button up details on my Vasa weather deck.
 
I need to coil the carriage ropes. I have seen some beautiful work here in that regard, but I don’t remember reading about any good technique(s).
 
How should I coil the ropes, and keep them in place before re-positioning them next to the carriages? I’m also concerned about scaring the deck with glue marks.
 
I do know that many cut the ropes just under the pulleys and then “attach” the coiled bits on each side.
 
I include a photo of my messy deck so that you may have a better take on my dilemma. Thanks for any advice. I have learned so much here at MSW in these last two years!
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Shipmates!!!
 
Discovered this while I was looking for a better way to make draft marks for my submarines.  DECALPRO offers a nice easy system to make your own dry transfer decals.
 
Using this system I came up with ways to make decking. With this technique material thickness will not be an issue, and it can be used on any surface.
 
As always there are a few issues with a new technique.  You will require a laminating machine recommended by the manufacturer.  I found one on Ebay. You also need a laser printer, and a heat gun.
 
You can do like I did and create your decking in the PAINT program on windows.  (NOTE: This deck is way out of scale and proportion so I could show you the technique.)  You can also hand draw the deck and then scan it in your computer, or you can find deck patterns on the Net.
 
The decal instructions will show you exactly what to do to set up the special decal paper and transfer Mylar film.  The laser printer uses toner which is plastic. When printed on the special paper the image is bound to the paper by a water soluble chemical. A Mylar carrier sheet is laminated to the special paper.  This causes the image to bond with the Mylar carrier sheet with static.  The deal is then given a water bath where the chemical in the paper releases the image to the Mylar film. The image is dried with a paper towel then sprayed with an alcohol based adhesive.
 
For demonstration I used a piece of Mahogany.  The image is laid down and rubbed with a paper towel. Then the backing is peeled away.
 
For the colored deck. I demonstrate on white card stock. If you choose to place your deck on say grey polystyrene then you will have to reverse your image in the computer,apply the white foil film to the back and then use the carrier Mylar. 
 
You can use this system to make name plates, sails, just about anything.
 
Enjoy!! 

Hi Cristi & Brian
 
Re cannon barrels.
 
Yes I am going to use Casey's Brass Black on them all.
 
I am now cutting out the main deck cannon ports.
 
Denis.

Hi
 
Started the main deck cannons.
 
Denis.