CPT_D Posted August 6, 2015 Share #1 Posted August 6, 2015 So boing new to this hobby I'm having a little problem with with gluing my model. The issue I'm having is that the glue tends to be very messy. I clean the glue as best I can when it's still wet but in the end there is always a little left. This excess is very difficult to clean when it dry. I am currently using titebond I, II, and III depending on how much time I need to set something. So the question; what is the best way to apply glue to the model? BobSki 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blue Pilot Posted August 6, 2015 Share #2 Posted August 6, 2015 (edited) When I use a glue like you mention If I want to keep it neet I put it on some wax paper I keep by my work station then use a tooth pick to spread a little bit on. I also have a just damp rag or paper towel and wipe of any excess if needed. It also sands or scrapes off easy. If I use something like super glue I use one with a medium viscosity and use tips to get just a little. Generally less glue is needed then you think. It does not take much. Hope this helps. Edited August 6, 2015 by Blue Pilot justsayrow, Canute, Ryland Craze and 5 others 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted August 6, 2015 Share #3 Posted August 6, 2015 I find what Mark (Blue Pilot) said.. toothpick and wax paper. I use it also for CA. A little goes a long way. Canute and Jack12477 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CPT_D Posted August 7, 2015 Author Share #4 Posted August 7, 2015 I started to use a little mixing stick (basically a toothpick with round point) and still got more glue on than I needed. I guess I'm used to gluing my woodworking stuff here more is better. Canute 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
druxey Posted August 7, 2015 Share #5 Posted August 7, 2015 I find a small round watercolor paintbrush idea for applying glue to small joints. A larger wet brush takes care of any squeeze-out before the glue sets up. Make sure that you rinse the brushes well before glue sets in them! mtaylor, Canute, Mahuna and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mahuna Posted August 7, 2015 Share #6 Posted August 7, 2015 (edited) I agree with Druxey. In addition, for very small applications you could use a small syringe with a blunt dispensing needle. http://www.amazon.com/slip-tip-disposable-syringe-without-needle/dp/B007ZDHYTK/ref=sr_1_5?s=hpc&ie=UTF8&qid=1438914072&sr=1-5&keywords=syringe https://contenti.com/dispensing/dispensing-needle-tiplets I find the 26 and 27 gauge needles to give a microscopic drop of glue. I keep my syringe/dispenser combination point-down in a jar of water while I'm using them so the tip doesn't dry out. When I'm done I'll remove the tip from the syringe with glue in it and put it on a clean syringe filled with water. A few syringes worth of water cleans out the glue and lets you save the tip for a few more uses. At the low cost of the tips I buy 20-30 at a time and don't mind throwing one away. You could also get some tip caps so you can store the syringe with some glue in it. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BQ4IO84?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 This works well for PVA glue, but not for CA glue. Hope this helps. Edited August 7, 2015 by Mahuna Canute, mtaylor and antanasp 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hornet Posted August 7, 2015 Share #7 Posted August 7, 2015 For white glue I usually squeeze a blob onto the lid of a Chinese take way container. When it dries it just peels off and the lid is as good as new. I apply it with a small awl. I use CA glue very sparingly but when coppering a hull I turn a glass jar ( most of which have a concave bottom) upside down and squeeze a few drops in the middle. I use the old awl to apply this as well. Brian the extraordinaire, mtaylor, Canute and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canute Posted August 7, 2015 Share #8 Posted August 7, 2015 Another "tool" I find useful for applying small amounts of my glues is a wire paperclip opened up so the thin wire tip can be used to apply the glue. And the rest of the clip is your handle. mtaylor, wthilgen, jazzchip and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CPT_D Posted August 9, 2015 Author Share #9 Posted August 9, 2015 For the bulkheads I ended up using small mixing sticks and I put the glue in plastic lid from my calipers. The lid worked perfectly, when the glue dried I just pealed it off. For the CA glue I am going to use these micro tip applicators. mtaylor 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Vadas Posted August 9, 2015 Share #10 Posted August 9, 2015 I'm with Druxey regarding the small paintbrush for most uses, but instead of using another brush for cleanup I use Q-tips, A pack of 100 costs about $4.00. For fine gluing where I want just a small drop or two I bought a small plastic glue bottle with a needle applicator. A piece of 0.5mm stainless steel wire seals it when not in use : Danny Jack12477, CPT_D, riverboat and 5 others 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CPT_D Posted August 10, 2015 Author Share #11 Posted August 10, 2015 Great idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuntherMT Posted August 11, 2015 Share #12 Posted August 11, 2015 All of the above is good advice. I used far too much glue when I started this hobby too! I use a syringe for almost all my glue application, it allows great control. For cleanup, pretty much as soon as the glue has 'tacked' so you don't have to hold the pieces together, I just use a #11 blade and carefully 'scrape' the excess glue off (I'm using Titebond). When it's tacked up but still fresh like this, it comes off very cleanly and easily, as it tends to 'ball up' when you are scraping it and I've had very good luck doing this. If you let it dry, then it needs to be sanded/filed, which is more work, and also can be difficult to get into hard corners to do properly, so I always try to do the glue cleanup on each joint as it's glued. mtaylor, src, Ryland Craze and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
druxey Posted August 12, 2015 Share #13 Posted August 12, 2015 An extra footnote: should there be a small glue blob in a corner that you missed when cleaning up, apply a spot or two of isopropanol on a brush a few times to soften the excess glue. Then scrape the softened glue off using a dental elevator or micro chisel. mtaylor, Mahuna, Canute and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maury S Posted August 12, 2015 Share #14 Posted August 12, 2015 Thank goodness for isopropyl! But be sure to get the 91% + stuff, A lot of it is sold at a 50% dilution...not so good for glue removal. Maury mtaylor, Canute and druxey 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hornet Posted August 12, 2015 Share #15 Posted August 12, 2015 I made up a simple but effective scraper for removing excess glue using a reversed No 11 blade. See link below. http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/4679-the-kit-bashers-guide-to-the-galaxy/page-6 dgbot, mtaylor and Canute 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latestarter Posted September 16, 2015 Share #16 Posted September 16, 2015 I have just started a new build and I have discovered one of the early bulkheads has been knocked slightly to one side ( an over enthusuastic grandson) I was using PVA glue, how can it be removed to re-position it correctly? mtaylor and Canute 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pompey2 Posted September 16, 2015 Share #17 Posted September 16, 2015 Try painting the joint with a little Isopropyl. Work the joint around to let it seep in, add a little more if necessary That normally does the trick Nick mtaylor and Canute 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Al Posted September 16, 2015 Share #18 Posted September 16, 2015 I've used a sewing needle with the eye cut in half -- cut into a 2 pronged fork. Then I put a couple drops of CA into a plastic teaspoon (which can be bought at a Dollar store for, of course $1 for 50) and I put the fork into the drop of glue and then transfer it to the wood joint. This works well with very thin CA, not well with gel. Canute and mtaylor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latestarter Posted September 19, 2015 Share #19 Posted September 19, 2015 I live out in the sticks in the middle of nowhere. I can get 99.9% alcohol in abundance, would that break down PVA glue? mtaylor and Canute 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
druxey Posted September 19, 2015 Share #20 Posted September 19, 2015 Yes, isopropanol breaks down PVA. However, it will reset if not cleaned off the joint. Isopropanol should be available at a drug store (chemists). mtaylor and Canute 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dvm27 Posted September 20, 2015 Share #21 Posted September 20, 2015 The simplest and most important tip that I learned from my mentor is to clean up every glued joint with water and a small paint brush immediately. It's very hard to scrape or remove glue once set. Ryland Craze, dgbot, Canute and 3 others 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pompey2 Posted September 30, 2015 Share #22 Posted September 30, 2015 Several people here refer to 'Waxed Paper' for glue dispensing. Of course Cereal boxes are normally waxed. So I cut up old boxes, then cut off an inch square, then after use fold it over and throw away. Good for CA, PVA and Epoxy. One box will last for years. Nick mtaylor, Jack12477 and Dan Vadas 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Vadas Posted September 30, 2015 Share #23 Posted September 30, 2015 Several people here refer to 'Waxed Paper' for glue dispensing. I use a small sheet of glass - a quick wipe over when finished with PVA works fine, epoxy and CA can be scraped off when set. Danny mtaylor, BANYAN and Canute 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hornet Posted September 30, 2015 Share #24 Posted September 30, 2015 (edited) While coppering the hull of my HM Brig Supply, I came across this handy CA glue applicator from Squadron (just google Squadron glue applicator) The hooked end of the applicator traps a small amount of CA glue which is transferred to the copper plate as soon as the applicator touches it. Very clean and easy - no plates stuck to fingers The applicator is made of stainless steel and was quite inexpensive to buy The hooked end of the applicator holds a small drop of CA glue As I mentioned in a previous post on this thread, I use the concave end of a glass jar as a reservoir for my CA glue. Steve Edited September 30, 2015 by hornet mtaylor, Canute, dgbot and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgbot Posted October 4, 2015 Share #25 Posted October 4, 2015 (edited) Take an old cheap paint brush and remove the head with the bristles drill a hole on the end and insert a sewing needle then cut the tip of the eye off and you have an applicator for half the price if you were going to throw the brush away anyway. David B Edited October 4, 2015 by dgbot hornet and mtaylor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landlocked123 Posted October 7, 2015 Share #26 Posted October 7, 2015 Hi David, I've basically done that. But my I've used 4" pieces of random dowels I've got lying around. I keep the various sized needles in a small water bottle with some water and lead shot in the bottom to keep them clean between uses ( the lead shot helps keep the bottle from getting knocked over). I keep the old brushes to apply glue in various ways. If they get mucked up, I just toss them. John dgbot and mtaylor 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landlocked123 Posted October 8, 2015 Share #27 Posted October 8, 2015 Hi Guys, I know that Isopropyl Alcohol can loosen PVAs and that Acetone will work on CA, but is there anything that performs a similar function on epoxy? Thanks. Best, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtaylor Posted October 9, 2015 Share #28 Posted October 9, 2015 Hi Guys, I know that Isopropyl Alcohol can loosen PVAs and that Acetone will work on CA, but is there anything that performs a similar function on epoxy? Thanks. Best, John I think dynamite or an air hammer? :D On the serious side, there's nothing I know of that's readily available to do epoxy and not damage the wood. Canute, Landlocked123 and dgbot 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landlocked123 Posted October 12, 2015 Share #29 Posted October 12, 2015 Hi Mark, I just saw yor reply and finally stopped laughing enough to type this. I guess at some point it's worth going with the "nuclear" option. I went that way today after PVA and CA failed. I'll see tomorrow if it was a good idea or not. The biggest problem I continue to face is trying to complete my build where I would love to start over. It turns out I need to re-paint the hull, and rigg/install deck furniture. I know I'm not that far but I hate seeing all the subpar work. Anyway, I'm going to bull through it and finish. Best, John Canute, mtaylor and dgbot 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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