6ohiocav

Looking good Mike.
 
Not adding the stern post and stem will greatly help you to sand the planking ends and shape the curves. I think that was a good call. I wish I had waited to add my stern post until after I planked my Niagara.  It was in the way and I nicked it repeatedly when I was sanding the end of the stern planks. Rabbit or not, I think I could have done a cleaner job by adding it after planking.
 
 

CLEWLINES AND SHEETS
While I have been working on prototypes of my scratch-build ship’s boats, I noted that we now have a new format to the site.  Looks great.  Thanks to the ADMINS. I can’t imagine the time it takes to keep all of this up to date.
Since I hit a snag on what to do with the clewlines and sheets for a ship rigged without sails, I broke down and secured a copy of Peterssons book “Rigging Period Ship Models” and found an answer in the diagram on page 49. Using that as a guide, I rigged my topsail clews and sheets. An adequate solution.

Looking good Mike.
 
Not adding the stern post and stem will greatly help you to sand the planking ends and shape the curves. I think that was a good call. I wish I had waited to add my stern post until after I planked my Niagara.  It was in the way and I nicked it repeatedly when I was sanding the end of the stern planks. Rabbit or not, I think I could have done a cleaner job by adding it after planking.
 
 

Mike,
 
Just catching up with your new project. This looks great, and I love your "first" planking. It is almost too bad you have to cover it up.
 
I will be following along on this wonderful project. Happy planking my friend.
 
 

Looking good Mike.
 
Not adding the stern post and stem will greatly help you to sand the planking ends and shape the curves. I think that was a good call. I wish I had waited to add my stern post until after I planked my Niagara.  It was in the way and I nicked it repeatedly when I was sanding the end of the stern planks. Rabbit or not, I think I could have done a cleaner job by adding it after planking.
 
 

Companionway II
 
Well I finally finished the companionway and the captains quarter skylight. I trimmed out the windows in cherry stripwood, I built the hatch rails and hatch frame out of holly. I finished the hatch roof and door out of cherry strips.
 
This was a chore, and for those of you that have the Niagara plans, you will note a big mistake in the structures, Not a real big one, but since I made the same mistake twice, I had to reveal it.  I created the companionway with three windows per side, BUT, the plans only call for two windows per side. The salon skylight callsefor three windows, and I only put in two.
 
If you have followed this log, you will remember that I REBUILT these structures.  The first time, I made the same mistake, and when I decided to rebuild them, I figured I would fix this.  Well........ In my haste to get these things done (like trying to hurry doing a chore that took three days), I made the very same mistake again. Arghhhh. I have to keep reminding myself to look at the plans once and a while.
 
Here are some photos.  I had to see what they looked like on deck, so I simply put them in place.  
 
Up next, pin and fife rails.
 
 

Companionway
 
Finished the second skylight and began working on the companionway. Even though I have already built one of these, I worked most of the night just to get to this point. I still have to build the slide brackets and top, and then get it all to fit, then the door and the trim.
 
I truly believe I could build a full sized companionway in a shorter time. At least I could see what I am doing. This darn thing is small.
 
Interesting observation on the capstan Joel. You are spot on. With all of these deck structures, and the capstan wedged inbetween the salon skylight and the companionway, you can't. While the capstan bars appear to be mounted above the tops of the two structures, unless the men are prepared to step onto the roofs, it would be impossible. As I look at my build, I am not sure that my companion way will be low enough to clear the bars, making this even more of a problem.
 
I am sold. CASE CLOSED. The skylights and companionway are clearly a modern anomoly. Great point Joel.

​Skylights
 
​​Still working on deck structures.  Months ago, I built the three skylights.  I built them out of bass wood strips per the plans. This was a tedious project that took me days to accomplish. The plans call for the structures to be painted, and all one color, walls, frames and roof.  To be fair, the current ship's skylights are indeed painted a light brown - and all one color.
 
I have viewed posts on this site, and agree with the commenters that these skylights are probably a modern addition, and would not have been present on the 1813 version, at least in this form.  I would imagine however that there would have been some form of structure that would allow light in the hold and protection from rain.
 
Deciding to go with the structures as planned, I decide to forego the all one color.  I elected to line the roofs with cherry strip wood, that I would not paint. I masked off the roofs and sanded and primed the walls, and they sat in my make-shift paint booth waiting for me to find an acceptable beige paint. 
 
I looked at those skylights for weeks, and every time I did, I just did not think I could paint them to look good enough. So, I decided to scrap the existing structures and start over. I have learned that anytime I can avoid painting something, that is a preferable way to go. This time, I would build the walls out of of holly, and would mill some small cherry strip wood for the roofs, window sills and window covers.
 
As I learned the first time around, I cut out balsa blocks to the size of the skylights and used that as a support to build around.  It assured that the structures were square, and made the work with the small strips easier.  I cut 45 degree but joints on my mini miter box.  Getting the right size is a challenge, but once achieved, a block clamped to the fence allowed me to cut multiple even sized strips.
 
I have provided pictures of the process.  The built skylight at the top was the first version out of bass wood with a coat of white primer. The end product of the new design out of holly and cherry was much more acceptable.

Hey Elijah
 
Thanks for checking in. I use a very small drop of medium CA on all of the small whippings and ratlines. These knots are pretty good on their own, but the glue helps. Don't over do it however.  On larger knots I use a diluted white glue, 50/50 glue-water. again, used sparingly, it will dry almost invisible.
 
The real key to the rigging is the rope and blocks that I purchased from Chuck at Syren. It makes my work look way better than it really is.  If you can swing the additional cost, I highly recommend it.
 
And finally, practice makes (nearly) perfect. I have tied so many knots in the most confined areas, that I have figured out a thing or two.
 
My advice to my fellow Niagara builders at the cusp of starting the rigging process is to be bold and forge ahead. It is not as daunting as it may seem. The plans could be a bit better, but you will figure it out as you go, and of course, if you run into a jam, I am sure I already faced it, and figured out a solution to it which may not be the right one, but one that I will nonetheless be happy to share.

Mike,
 
Just catching up with your new project. This looks great, and I love your "first" planking. It is almost too bad you have to cover it up.
 
I will be following along on this wonderful project. Happy planking my friend.
 
 

Hey Elijah
 
Thanks for checking in. I use a very small drop of medium CA on all of the small whippings and ratlines. These knots are pretty good on their own, but the glue helps. Don't over do it however.  On larger knots I use a diluted white glue, 50/50 glue-water. again, used sparingly, it will dry almost invisible.
 
The real key to the rigging is the rope and blocks that I purchased from Chuck at Syren. It makes my work look way better than it really is.  If you can swing the additional cost, I highly recommend it.
 
And finally, practice makes (nearly) perfect. I have tied so many knots in the most confined areas, that I have figured out a thing or two.
 
My advice to my fellow Niagara builders at the cusp of starting the rigging process is to be bold and forge ahead. It is not as daunting as it may seem. The plans could be a bit better, but you will figure it out as you go, and of course, if you run into a jam, I am sure I already faced it, and figured out a solution to it which may not be the right one, but one that I will nonetheless be happy to share.

Hey Elijah
 
Thanks for checking in. I use a very small drop of medium CA on all of the small whippings and ratlines. These knots are pretty good on their own, but the glue helps. Don't over do it however.  On larger knots I use a diluted white glue, 50/50 glue-water. again, used sparingly, it will dry almost invisible.
 
The real key to the rigging is the rope and blocks that I purchased from Chuck at Syren. It makes my work look way better than it really is.  If you can swing the additional cost, I highly recommend it.
 
And finally, practice makes (nearly) perfect. I have tied so many knots in the most confined areas, that I have figured out a thing or two.
 
My advice to my fellow Niagara builders at the cusp of starting the rigging process is to be bold and forge ahead. It is not as daunting as it may seem. The plans could be a bit better, but you will figure it out as you go, and of course, if you run into a jam, I am sure I already faced it, and figured out a solution to it which may not be the right one, but one that I will nonetheless be happy to share.

Mike,
 
Just catching up with your new project. This looks great, and I love your "first" planking. It is almost too bad you have to cover it up.
 
I will be following along on this wonderful project. Happy planking my friend.
 
 

Hey Elijah
 
Thanks for checking in. I use a very small drop of medium CA on all of the small whippings and ratlines. These knots are pretty good on their own, but the glue helps. Don't over do it however.  On larger knots I use a diluted white glue, 50/50 glue-water. again, used sparingly, it will dry almost invisible.
 
The real key to the rigging is the rope and blocks that I purchased from Chuck at Syren. It makes my work look way better than it really is.  If you can swing the additional cost, I highly recommend it.
 
And finally, practice makes (nearly) perfect. I have tied so many knots in the most confined areas, that I have figured out a thing or two.
 
My advice to my fellow Niagara builders at the cusp of starting the rigging process is to be bold and forge ahead. It is not as daunting as it may seem. The plans could be a bit better, but you will figure it out as you go, and of course, if you run into a jam, I am sure I already faced it, and figured out a solution to it which may not be the right one, but one that I will nonetheless be happy to share.

CLEWLINES AND SHEETS
While I have been working on prototypes of my scratch-build ship’s boats, I noted that we now have a new format to the site.  Looks great.  Thanks to the ADMINS. I can’t imagine the time it takes to keep all of this up to date.
Since I hit a snag on what to do with the clewlines and sheets for a ship rigged without sails, I broke down and secured a copy of Peterssons book “Rigging Period Ship Models” and found an answer in the diagram on page 49. Using that as a guide, I rigged my topsail clews and sheets. An adequate solution.

Hey Mike,
 
I have a few halyards to install, and then the braces, and then I dare say, the rigging (at least as far as I am going with it) will be complete. I'll have to do some final tying off at the pin rails and then create some rope coils. In the meantime, I need to figure out what to do with the boats and the hammock rails.

SPANKER THROAT HALLIARD AND TOPPING LIFT COLLAR, COURSE LIFTS, TOPSAIL LIFTS, BACK STAYS
 
More work on the main mast. And I hit a snag with the Spanker Throat Halliard Collar.  I installed the collar around the top of the spanker mast ok. I actually cut a grove in the spanker mast to allow the collar to sit in before I installed it. Good planning. But I forgot to seize the double block to the Spanker Gaff. With the Spanker Gaff already pinned in place, and having already fully rigged it, I was reluctant to UNDO everything just to seize a block.
 
Therefore, I was forced to seize that block on the ship.  The seizing rope wraps around the base of the gaff and passes through two holes in the jaws (I did put the holes in before installing). That is now a very busy place. I used a very long strand of .012 black rope so that I could pull it far away from the gaff, and was able to tie a whipping knot that wrapped around the double block, and pulled it tight to the gaff.
 
I rigged the Topping Lift Collar with .018 rope for the Spanker Boom
.
I rigged the Topsail Lifts and belayed them to the pin rail.
 
I rigged the Course Yard with .018 and belayed them to pre-installed tackles at the base of the main mast.
 
I also belayed a number of the loose running rigging ropes, including the t’gallant clew line and sheets.  Those pass through the fairlead on the shrouds and belayed to the pin rail.
 
​I belayed the Course Truss lines.
 
​I also tied off all of the back stays with the small kit supplied deadeyes.
 
I am getting pretty close to finishing off the rigging I chose to do. I have not included any large scale photos lately, so here you go.

CLEWLINES AND SHEETS
While I have been working on prototypes of my scratch-build ship’s boats, I noted that we now have a new format to the site.  Looks great.  Thanks to the ADMINS. I can’t imagine the time it takes to keep all of this up to date.
Since I hit a snag on what to do with the clewlines and sheets for a ship rigged without sails, I broke down and secured a copy of Peterssons book “Rigging Period Ship Models” and found an answer in the diagram on page 49. Using that as a guide, I rigged my topsail clews and sheets. An adequate solution.

Hey Mike,
 
I have a few halyards to install, and then the braces, and then I dare say, the rigging (at least as far as I am going with it) will be complete. I'll have to do some final tying off at the pin rails and then create some rope coils. In the meantime, I need to figure out what to do with the boats and the hammock rails.

CLEWLINES AND SHEETS
While I have been working on prototypes of my scratch-build ship’s boats, I noted that we now have a new format to the site.  Looks great.  Thanks to the ADMINS. I can’t imagine the time it takes to keep all of this up to date.
Since I hit a snag on what to do with the clewlines and sheets for a ship rigged without sails, I broke down and secured a copy of Peterssons book “Rigging Period Ship Models” and found an answer in the diagram on page 49. Using that as a guide, I rigged my topsail clews and sheets. An adequate solution.

Hey Mike,
 
I have a few halyards to install, and then the braces, and then I dare say, the rigging (at least as far as I am going with it) will be complete. I'll have to do some final tying off at the pin rails and then create some rope coils. In the meantime, I need to figure out what to do with the boats and the hammock rails.

Hey Mike,
 
I have a few halyards to install, and then the braces, and then I dare say, the rigging (at least as far as I am going with it) will be complete. I'll have to do some final tying off at the pin rails and then create some rope coils. In the meantime, I need to figure out what to do with the boats and the hammock rails.

CLEWLINES AND SHEETS
While I have been working on prototypes of my scratch-build ship’s boats, I noted that we now have a new format to the site.  Looks great.  Thanks to the ADMINS. I can’t imagine the time it takes to keep all of this up to date.
Since I hit a snag on what to do with the clewlines and sheets for a ship rigged without sails, I broke down and secured a copy of Peterssons book “Rigging Period Ship Models” and found an answer in the diagram on page 49. Using that as a guide, I rigged my topsail clews and sheets. An adequate solution.

SPANKER THROAT HALLIARD AND TOPPING LIFT COLLAR, COURSE LIFTS, TOPSAIL LIFTS, BACK STAYS
 
More work on the main mast. And I hit a snag with the Spanker Throat Halliard Collar.  I installed the collar around the top of the spanker mast ok. I actually cut a grove in the spanker mast to allow the collar to sit in before I installed it. Good planning. But I forgot to seize the double block to the Spanker Gaff. With the Spanker Gaff already pinned in place, and having already fully rigged it, I was reluctant to UNDO everything just to seize a block.
 
Therefore, I was forced to seize that block on the ship.  The seizing rope wraps around the base of the gaff and passes through two holes in the jaws (I did put the holes in before installing). That is now a very busy place. I used a very long strand of .012 black rope so that I could pull it far away from the gaff, and was able to tie a whipping knot that wrapped around the double block, and pulled it tight to the gaff.
 
I rigged the Topping Lift Collar with .018 rope for the Spanker Boom
.
I rigged the Topsail Lifts and belayed them to the pin rail.
 
I rigged the Course Yard with .018 and belayed them to pre-installed tackles at the base of the main mast.
 
I also belayed a number of the loose running rigging ropes, including the t’gallant clew line and sheets.  Those pass through the fairlead on the shrouds and belayed to the pin rail.
 
​I belayed the Course Truss lines.
 
​I also tied off all of the back stays with the small kit supplied deadeyes.
 
I am getting pretty close to finishing off the rigging I chose to do. I have not included any large scale photos lately, so here you go.

CATHARPINS PRACTICUM
 
I thought I would share with you my method of installing the catharpin on the lower shrouds of my main mast. I have seen other modelers use this method. The Niagara plans call for thimbles for attaching the lanyard.  I elected to use the kit supplied brass rings that I blackened.
 
Since this has to be tied on to the model, it is a bit tricky. Using elongated pieces of .018 black rope (as per the plans), you can pull the ends far enough away from the shrouds to tie the knots.
 
The pictures show the process that I chose. I don’t know if this is the correct way, but it worked from me and at this scale looks good.
 
As an aside, I have come to a better understanding how and why a sailing ship’s rigging is engineered the way it is. Together with the futtock shrouds and the ratlines, the catharpin, when added to the main shrouds, really tightens up the entire system.  It is rather incredible how everything works so well together.