shipcarpenter

Google translator.
Thank you Albert, thank you all for the likes.
Sorry for the poor photo quality. The old cheap camera does not always capture the fine details of the thread.
 
Cold, artificial lighting.

 


 
Natural light (weak sunlight).

 
Natural lighting (bright sunlight).

 

A new part has been just a moment installed :
 

 

some progress:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The block and the pitch and tar rooms:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you Greg,
I can't really remember what I used, but mostly a scraper, small chisels and files. It's now over 2 years ago, that I build them. But it was't an easy job, that can I remember very well. But I thought, when they did it in the 18. century, why should I not do it 😉
 

 

Hello some progress - gun deck is almost done..

Hello,
and many thanks for your efforts Mark. Alexander found in Goodwin's book English Man of War, 1719 establishment list, under gun deck and plank, page 249 binding strakes. The same for the middle deck, under Flat, page 252 and for the upper gun deck also under flat the next page. What is the difference between plank and flat?
 
That means, I have to build them, but as you already said, I do not inlet them. 
 
I have also a little upgrade at the shipyard

 

Thank you so much Backer. I thank everyone for the like..😇
 
I continue to shape the balcony railing on a template made of waste..🛠️

 

 

 

 

 

 
Now it's time for the dark wood posts..😴
 

Upper Deck - Main Mast Partner
   Similar to foremart counterpart.
The Carlings (6.36mm x 5.3mm deep) have already been made.
They are set 14.84mm apart. The fore outer aspect needs trimming to allow for the Pins of the Main Topsail Bitt.
The Carlings are half joined to #12 Beam which is cut underside by 2.12mm.
The upper surface of the Carlings are partially recessed to allow the Mast Partner to sit on the beam after being let down by 2.12mm. The depth removed is 1.59mm (2.12-0.53) following the “footprint” of the Partners.
The octagonal opening for the Pumps are filed out-but became more round than intended.
NOTE -Hanging Knees, after #10 Beam, are now placed FORE between beams
Also note that there  are 4 ledges in outer group, and 5 for inner group.
 

Some progress on the longboat: Planking and clean-up is finished (imgs 1-3), hull is painted (imgs 4-5), floor boards, front grating and thwarts are done (imgs 6-7), chocks are mounted on the gallows bits (img 8), and the windlass is installed (img 9). Img 10 gives an overall impression of the Syren with the (unfinished) longboat in place.
 
Thomas
 

Image 1
 

Image 2
 

Image 3
 

Image 4
 

Image 5
 

Image 6
 

Image 7
 

Image 8
 

Image 9
 

Image 10
 
 

Permanent rigging. Greetings, Piotrek.

Thank you Patrick, your Pelican is an inspiration for me.
Next, I decided to make new gun ports.
It was even more difficult because they are not square.
 

 
 

Deck cabin, rudder installation.

Hello, thanks for comments
I am back and I have one question. I found difference between plans for cross section and full build (see photo).
On main topsail sheet bitts there is crosspiece close to main mast (cross section) but in full build plans is on the opposite side from mast.
Can somebody tell me what is correct?

Hello some progress - gun deck is almost done..

Chain pump

Blinged up, I’m not going to paint the hull or copper it.
 

 
 

More bling, the resin detail was the hardest part to fit to this point. Need a bit of clean up around the lettering.
my wax photo etch pencil proved invaluable.

Added a little bit of the bling, decided not to go white or coppered.

Hi All
 
Some more done and this time it's the port side which just about completes the frame.  
 
It went ok as I gained experience on the other side and I'm very pleased the way its very symmetrical.  These small frames are not hard to install; they just take a long time making sure that the angles are spot on.  I also tied into the quarterdeck beam again and have faired the inside.
 
So its now out of the jig and for the first time I can actually see the shape of the frame - what a moment that was 👍
 
I can't do any fairing on the outside yet as it still needs some strengthening first but its not that far away.  The next job is to make and instal the helm port which will give much more strength to the counter timbers.
 
Its not perfect by any stretch of the imagination  - but I'm very happy with the results so far and thanks for all of the comments and likes 🙂
 
Mark

Hello and thank you for your comments and likes,
today was a great day, because I finished the gun Deck. More or les, because there are the capstans and ladder-ways who will follow later.
I decided to build the anchors all on board, so the anchor cable did't go over the riding bits. I'm sorry but the crew had there breakfast break, so they are not at the pictures 😉
 

 

 

 

Though I've clearly been negligent with posting, I've been working on a few things simultaneously over the holiday break.  I'll have more updates soon on the rudder and transom.  But I've also been catching up on some of the miscellany of bitts and rails and other items. As always, everything ties together - so using a thicker deck and increasing the bulwarks affected the roll of top rail that sweeps into the waist.  Instead of trying to match it to the plans, or even match it identically to the FFM or other sources, I instead took what the build gave me and worked with that.  
    I used a solid piece of cedar scrap to draw out what the rail would look like, then carved/sanded the pieces to fit. Admittedly, I'm not much of a wood carver, so my little bit of saving grace is that it'll all be painted black so my inevitable flaws will hopefully be covered. 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
  For the strips along the side I sanded down some make-shift scrapers. The strips themselves are boxwood, split and sanded to match.  I sanded them thinner then painted them before they were mounted.
 
 
 
 
 
  After all the bitts are added along the top rail, I filled in all the little gaps before painting. 
 
 
 
  During this process I've been keeping the decorative etchings in the back of my head, as I know I'll have to work with those.  I realize I painted myself (no pun intended) into a corner by using a full size main wale as per the FFM, etc - which gives me much less space for decorations and other elements.  So - I'll likely finish up as much of the sides including the swivel mounts, side ladders and other ornaments (and maybe even the channels) before attempting to decorate the sides. 

Been doing some fiddling over the holidays to get the upper decks going.  First, I knocked out the gallows. I say 'knocked out' - but in reality it took a couple of efforts and a few hours to get the decorations the way I wanted them. I saw it as another opportunity to add a bit of embellishment without (hopefully) being too over the top. This is a piece of scrap mahogany.
 
 
 
  Then I started work on the foredeck.  As most of you know - I tend to do things in some unconventional ways and sometimes in unconventional order.  In this case, I decided to try and 'pre-plank' the fore deck before I mounted on the ship.  My thinking here is that I wanted to drill the treenails with the drill press. I don't have quite as stead a hand as I used to, and although my lower deck treenails look ok - they're not perfectly straight. Hopefully using the drill press would achieve that.
   So, I glued my planks to the false deck, and then left some room around the edge of the deck to soak and start bending a bit of Swiss Pear to fit the margin planks. Then I mounted the deck. I missed a couple pictures of measuring and drilling out the treenails, but it's your standard fair - filled in with diluted PVA and sawdust.
   
 
 

 
 The margin plank was fitted by using some card stock as templates, then cutting out and puzzling together the pieces.  Obviously this is a bit tedious and requires cutting and sanding at little bit at a time until they fit together snug. After lots of test fitting, I glued/fitted the margin plank together first, then put it in place.
 
 
 

 
  One thing to bear in mind if you're using anything other than the stock planking strips from this (or really any) kit.  The Swiss Pear is considerably thicker than the thin planking strips provided.  Even after sanding the heck out of it, it's still at least double or triple the size.  So I'll need to beef up the foc'sle bulwark inner planking a bit to make up for that.