shipcarpenter

Hi, and Thanks to all  ❤️

I was looking at the alignment of 3 ships... is that enough to call it: Ships of the line?

Fastening all of the straps and pieces onto the wood was more time consuming that I thought it would be.  I should realize by now that nothing is gonna fit the way I think it should and half of the things I build in advance will require rework.  One of these days maybe I'll spend more time in the design phase and reduce my rework time.  But probably not since impatience always gets the best of me. 
 
The side handles are cut away since they will look partially submerged in the sand once the base is finalized.  I am happy with the aged look of the chest so far. 
 
Now I'm working on the rivets and the 2 hinges that will go on the back of the chest.      

I finished the compartmentalization.

Hello friends thanks for all comments and likes much appreciated.
All frames are ready.  

Now all I have to do is black out all the bolts and then they can be set up clean, but it takes a good shipyard to do that.  I decided to redo the build plate.  There were several reasons why I had to do this.  
 
1. My first construction was made out of old panels, which isn't too bad on the whole.  But it arched very slightly.  The top plate was new (multiplex beech) so very stable and it will be recycled.  

 

2. Only 6 threaded rods M6 a bit too small for my taste.  


3. Most importantly, the center line from bow to stern from the bottom plate to the top plate was offset and so I had a 3mm warp.  

So now to the new shipyard: Substructure is a 15mm multiplex board 1250x850 mm with aluminum C-slot profiles.  
The whole thing was placed on an aluminum profile frame that has 20x20 mm and 8 M8 bolts. 
 
I wanted to share some more information with you.  

With the last bolt I installed a total of 16m of square wire in 52 frames, which is about 30cm per frame per side of a frame between 34 and 48 bolts, I installed a total of 3878 bolts.




 Have a good time.

Good morning and thank you all, the lifeboat was very challenging because of the small thicknesses.
I will continue with more photos.
 
 

Good morning, stern light.

Good morning.

The schedule was suspended due to heavy work for more than a week. I spent a day installing these components today. These may not seem like much, but with fixed pins and rivets, precise positioning can be time-consuming.
 

 
 
 

Thanks for all comments and likes. The front part of the model is practically done except for a few details.

Hi everyone,
 
It has been a long time since my last post. Other things going on, slow progress on the Bellona with little to show of interest. A lot of thinking about next steps!
 
I have finally roughed out the timber ends, giving the hull a much lighter feeling. These still need their distinctive hollowed top and sides. And they bring into play the railings at the their base and halfway up their lengths. I am still thinking how to do this, likely inserting short pieces between the timber heads, and then continuous railings alongside to give the appearance of a railing pierced by the timber heads.
 
I have completed the sheer strake, which was particularly satisfying since it really contributes to the sweet lines of the hull. I am now beginning to fit the moulding over the sheer strake. This will be very obvious in the final model, and it needs a particularly smooth, faired line. I have made a ply template at the right curvature, that I will clamp to the hull above the moulding and then clamp the moulding up to the lower edge of the template when glued. But in the waist, the fairness will be particularly obvious,  and the ply template doesn't have anything to rest on or clamp against. So I decided to start fitting the capping rail in the waist, up to which I can clamp the moulding for a smooth run when I glue it.
 
The lower photo shows a temporary rough blank for the capping rail, to check the fairness in both directions. I'm thinking I will glue the mouldings first, then come back and do the capping rail. This gives me a final edge against which to test the fairness of the outer edge of the capping rail.
 
I got into a whirlwind of thinking, trying to figure out the sequence of painting and assembly in the upper works. Everything above the waist rail already installed is painted a dark blue for the frieze, except for the sheer and drift rail mouldings which remain bright, and the top rails and timber heads which are black. I have decided to spray paint the blue, after masking the mouldings to which I have already applied the polyurethane finish. We will see!
 
BTW, I just received the NRG thickness guide for the Byrnes saw. Beautiful, works well. Thanks everyone who made this possible!
 
Mark
 
 
 


 

Fine thanks

Thank you guys.
I continue with making of gratings - to be continued...

Headrails.

Thanks to all for the comments,all the likes and the interest in my project. Today is the 15 Floréal CCXXX, and in the Arsenal in Munich we enter in the last phase to rise up the frames !

Good afternoon, everyone. Thank you for your like. This part of the outfitting process is slow but I think it is the most obvious part of the internal structure; it also determines the exact positioning of the upper part. So I had to be very careful about what I did. At the moment, the progress is relatively smooth, follow-up will be relatively easy.
 

 
 
 

 
 
 

Continuation: Cleats for topgallant lifts and royal lifts 
Mostly it comes differently than one thinks! 
So in this case. While I had thought that binding the filigree cleats to the topmast shrouds would be very difficult, my first attempt showed that it would be relatively easy.
Before I started with the shrouds for this model, I first built a corresponding jig for experimental purposes. This served later among other things also with decisions for attaching the ratlines. And now it served to test how best to attach the cleats to the shrouds.
The trick, if you can call it that at all, is to tie the cleats comfortably to the shrouds from the front, and then simply turn them backwards to the desired position. 

 To be continued ...
 

Hello,
except for his knee, the cat head is now ready. The knees comes then together with the rest of the head rails. But before that I would build the rest drift rails around the beakhead bulkhead.

Hello and many, many thanks for your likes and comments.
My garden took at least a lot of my attention the last week, so the shipyard had to pause a little. The beakhead bulkhead is now fast installed and yesterday I build the seats of ease in front of the round houses. Today I started with the cat-hats and -tails. I think, the pictures speak for themselves.

Thanks Friends!
Some progress on the lower deck:

Good morning.

I’ve done a fair amount of hemming and hawing over a number of things, but I eventually arrived at the place(s) I think I need to be.
 
For clarification of the earlier discussion; this is the essential problem of my stern winding out of square.  Note, how the starboard aft edge of the upper bulwark increasingly extends beyond port:
 

 
I thought I might try drawing arcs of round-up that ranged from extreme to conservative:
 

 
I started with the extreme line (far right), but ultimately - a more slight increase of round-up (middle line), appeared to me to be the most organic possibility.
 
Here is what my ultimate choice of round-up looks like from the starboard side:
 

 
It is just enough, I think, to help balance this incongruity - if not completely.
 
It seems to me that I can also help balance this out when I make the upper stern balcony.  Here, I have pulled a uniform cardboard template just away from the port side, so that the outboard edges of the stern balconies align:
 

 
I think this will help align visual perception at the exact point where it is most important.
 
At the end of the day, I am pleased with the slightly increased camber of this bridge-piece:
 

 
One thing that has become interesting to consider is this:  in gluing up the aft bulwarks, I was very conscious of establishing a realistic sense of tumblehome, as the bulwarks rise.  Even accounting for my initial increase in breadth, in the early drawing, I inadvertently maintained the slab-sided verticality of the kit stern.  In the left margin, I have noted the discrepancy between where I have arrived, dimensionally, versus where I began schematically:
 

 
Pictorially, here is the discrepancy for real:
 

 
What is completely fascinating is that the upper width of the stern is almost identical to the stock dimension.  Here is the stock poop deck, in place:
 

 
Even though this is not where I thought this project was going, when I started, the improved sense of tumblehome was well-worth the sacrifice in stern-width.  This isn’t perfect, but it looks more  right than wrong:
 

 

 
A montage of development for the next tier of stern lights:
 

 

 
The pilasters of the lower balcony rail don’t seem to align, but this is not reflective of reality.  Again, it isn’t perfect, but it’s pretty close.
 
After drafting:
 

 

 

 
This isn’t perfect.  The drawing can  be improved upon with the carving tools, themselves.  For the most part, I think this works.  I wonder whether I should follow the Berain drawing a little more closely and include an extra line of horizontal window mullions.  The false side lights, at this level, have five horizontal lines, but I am trying to balance this tier with the actual stern lights below.
 
Just for fun, a different iphone filter - Le Soleil Noir:
 

 
As always - thank you for looking in.  Bon noir!
 
 
 
 
 
 

To scrubbyj427: It is not possible to make all cuts in one pass. At first I tried to mill the figure gradually from all 4 sides - without much success. In the end, I decided to mill on only two sides and finish the details on the back and front by hand. I am satisfied with the result.
Lower and upper cheeks.

beginning of upper deck laying: