TomShipModel

Good afternoon, I am currently building a 1:96 scale Argus. Have you read the book about your ancestor? It is a very good read, and I recommend it. I was intending to use the Syren kit as a base for Argus, but having built a 1:64 Wasp, space dictated a smaller scale. The other reason is that my comparison of the Argus lines with those of Syren show that they are very different. If you are contemplating building Argus from the kit of the Syren, please reconsider. While both were built about the same time, excepting that they are both brigs and similar overall dimensions, the hull form is very different. The Argus was reputed to be a much better sailor than Syren. She also had much less tumblehome than Syren (for example, her upper hull at midships is more vertical than Syren). I am using plans by Howard Chappelle and a large-scale model of Argus that was the subject of an article in the Nautical Research Journal as a starting point. The NRJ article includes a detailed listing of dimensions for masts and spars of Argus when she was inspected after her capture and a deck plan with deck furniture, pin rails etc. While the Chappelle plans and that large model show a billet head, a merchant captains report to the captain of the Pelican noted that the brig had yellow sides and a bust for a figurehead. The question is a bust of whom? I know that a carving of the figurehead of Argus does exist, and I have seen it at the Naval Academy, but it has since been returned and I lost the photo that I had taken of it. If you wish, I can provide a few more references to Argus. I would be very interested in any information that you may have discovered. Best to you, Tom

I'd be interested is how they work. I've also smoothed out the wrinkles with a weight bristle brush. On first impression, the sponge may not be stiff enough smooth out the wrinkles. I think that these are intended to apply glue etc. If they work for you that's great. Tom

Good evening, John, The reduction in the height of the sail depends on how much you wish to furl; meaning completely furled or, as I did, partially lowered. 50% or so worked for the look I was working toward. If you wanted to lower the gaff more, 25 to 30%. Just keep in mind that the number of gromets and lacing line around the mast would be the same as for a raised sail. Regarding color, for some reason the brownish gray that I got gave me the look that I wanted. Rather than dying, some have used acrylics to gt different coloring and effects. I hope that this answers your question. Happy ship modeling, Tom

Excellent work Kevin. Tom

Welcome Nate!

I use silk span for sails. At this scale, I use three plies of silk span with each plie 90 degrees to each other. My work surface is glass, and I use dilute white glue at approximately five to eight parts water to one part glue. Too much water defeats the process, too little water the glue is too stiff to spread. Hope that this helps.

Welcome back

Excellent Mike, and very clean. Even the building jig is just perfect.

I meant, a sales brochure for a full size boat. AN interesting fact with photography is that no matter how good your model looks at a comfortable viewing distance, the photograph shows all of the imperfections. The galley on your model looks like it was taken on actual boat. Fantastic!

The photograph of the galley on a model looks like a photo in a sales brochure. Fantastic clean work Michael. Tom

Welcome to MSW.

Welcome to MSW.

Welcome Herby, You will find great support here. I'm very interested in seeing your Mikassa build. Tom

Welcome. You will find plenty of support on MSW.

Welcome to Model Ship World. You will find plenty of support here.

Welcome to MSW. You can build beautiful models as well. There are all levels represented here.

Welcome, Sam. You will find plenty of support on MSW. Best to you, Tom

Welcome to Model Ship World. As you can see, many good answers to your Ship Model questions.

Welcome Pocojo!

Welcome Pete,

Welcome. It looks like you have it planned out well.

Well done, and clean as per the usual. Beautiful. Tom

Welcome Vaidas! You have come to the right place. Nautical Research Guild has just had part 1 of a two part virtual workshop specifically for paper and card models. I have been to part 1, and it was excellent. You need to be a member of the NRG to view the workshop. Part 1 was recorded and it will be posted on NRG's website. Best regards, Tom

I acquired this book a few years ago when it wasn't so pricey. For many it may be out-of reach at $300+ https://www.amazon.com/Masting-Rigging-English-Ships-1625-1860/dp/0870219480/ref=sr_1_1?crid=3G0IWDRWUWQ7N&keywords="The+Masting+and+Rigging+of+English+Ships+of+War"+by+James+Lees&qid=1678821406&sprefix=the+masting+and+rigging+of+english+ships+of+war+by+james+lees+%2Caps%2C108&sr=8-1 That ia an incredible price! While the book has been out of print for many years, you can find it for a much lower price from a used book dealer, or from a retired modeler's sale. You need to be a bit lucky, but they are out there. Also, if you can't find Lees, Steel's Elements of Mastmaking, Sailmaking, and Rigging is available digitally. You can likely find a used copy somewhere, although there are very few drawings and you need to puzzle out the 19th century text.

Ron, I have used Petersson's book as well because of the excellent drawings that make the explanations in other books clearer. That said, you need to use caution with this particular book for the simple reason that it is rigging for a first- or second-rate ship, English, post 1790. For a general explanation of the run of a line, the book is excellent. However, if you are building a smaller ship for a different period, and it is English, by far the best book to use is "The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War" by James Lees. It is a little tough to go through some of the word descriptions in Lees, but the diagrams help out and you can use Petersson to supplement. The book fully describes how the lead and fixing points for the various lines changed for various establishments as well as where they belayed. It also explains where single and double blocks were used. For example, there are many instances where a double or triple block was used for third rate and above, but only a single block was used in the lower rates. Topmast or Topgallant yards on large ships have double and tripled lifts while smaller ships used only single lift. Also, take into account that belaying pins were generally not used prior to about 1790 depending on the size of the craft as well as nationality. You could also use Lees for Colonial Ships and maybe for latter. However, there are lists of Boatswains Stores of the Navy of the United States that was republished in the Nautical Research Journal. There are also several books out there for other nations ships. So, Petersson's book is excellent in that it has very clear drawings. However, if you aren't building and English SOL in about 1800 you need to use a supplement to make the rig accurate.