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Everything posted by Overworked724
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Did my best to retape the waterline to make the upper belt consistent. Fingers crossed 🤞. Got my system in place for making/cutting/removing the foil plates. It will be a marathon. I’m going to (again) try not to overthink it. Started port side… Since this will take a while, I break up the monotony with deck furniture and stern cannon… Moving on…
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Sorry, Ken. Hope I didn’t offend. Was meant to be supportive as I talk myself into jumping in my own coppering! (A bit nervous) Happy New Year!!
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Not a bad result, Ken. 👍🏽 Remember she’s not going to be mounted belly side up! Besides, you get to start working on the little fiddly deck bits now! Onwards!!!
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P&G’s are tucked in for later…even have a sneaky and easy way to mount them without (knock wood) causing too much damage to the copper once applied. Last thing I wanted to do was prep the false keel. Since the mounting screws go up through the keelson, making the false keel in one piece is possible but tricky. Decided to break it up into sections. The gaps at the mounting screws will be cleanly hidden by the pedestal mounts. Again…just didn’t want to overthink this one. Moving on….
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Finished up the other ladder. Yes, some folks mentioned the ladders are a bit ‘thick’. What the hell. 😁 It’s better than my first ladder I made for the Sultana. Also pre trimmed and test fit the gudgeons. I made the decision to trim the gudgeons not to extend beyond the stern piece. Yes, it’s a deviation but not a big one. A lot of brigs (US brigs included) in this era did not wrap the gudgeons out beyond the stern piece. It also saved me from trying to bend around the ‘fat’ planking which I did not sand level with the stern piece. So…lesson learned. The fit looks good…and if I mount them as accurately after coppering, the rudder will both functional and removable. 👍🏽 Moving on….
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Please tell me you haven’t given up on your Syren! 🙏🏻 Merry Christmas and happy flying!!!!
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I plan to do individual tiles. Most builds approach the coppering this way.
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Hi Ken! I know there are a lot of builds out there…some are rough, others are like works from pros. Don’t compare yourself. It’s your ship, and and deviating from the plans is fun! A couple options: 1) Go without rivets at all (who is really going to check?) 2) Paint the hull white below the waterline instead of coppering. For the foil not sticking, a lot of folks recommended sanding sealer or primer. It cleans up the wood surface and gives the foil something to stick to. When your build gets you stressed, do a side project to reset your head and allow your creative juices to give you ideas. It’s a marathon!! (A really long one!) Best Pat
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Hi @niwotwill Will, If you go to post #123 in my log, your questions are directly addressed! 👍🏽 Hope that helps! (0.4mm thickness) (1/8” cherry wood sections as sandwich bread 😁 ). Please note the correction. I'm sure this would work with sheets that are 1/16", but did a quick remeasure and find that sandwich sections (cherry wood) was closer to 1/8'. Either way...very easy to cut. One thing to keep in mind is to line up the grain of the wood with the direction of the cut for the strips...cuts much easier I think.
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Still futzing with the rudder. Prepared all the pintles. Dry fit with nails. Used a manicure shaping tool to press in the wood in the rudder cavity to ensure a smooth fit with gudgeons. Looking fairly decent. Will use the rudder as it is to mark the gudgeons placement and get those prepared. Not sure how everyone else does it…but I really don’t trust myself in this part. But I am determined to ensure I can remove the rudder. I could have embedded the pins in the pintles. But I wanted some 'room' to play if things got finicky and the fit too tight/restrictive. I can always replace the thinner wire with a 20G copper section which would fit perfectly in the pintle. Moving on…
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