Overworked724

Quick coppering update. I’m now a pro at making copper plates and tearing off the backing without crimping the foil. New skill set. First 7 rows on the port side are on. They look fairly decent. Again, not overthinking here, just trying to be consistent. Laying them on cleanly is not as hard as I had thought it would be. If I don’t like how a plate looks, I rip it off and repeat. The stem post was a bit difficult. Had a couple of plates that forced me to adjust a bit. Moving to starboard to get the first 7 rows in and do my best to make sure things line up. The grind continues. 👍🏽

Captain’s log, Star Date 12282021: My foray into coppering the Syren hull has met with some small amount of success…based upon current estimates, I’ll be done sometime next Christmas. Will refrain from additional posts on coppering until I have the final pics of the finished job. it’s a SLOOOOW process.

Yeah....so everyone has a method for making these plates. The foil is so fragile! In retrospect, I am really glad I made my stamps a while back. The process I use is efficient and doesn't take much time to crank out plates. The nice thing I've discovered is that the paper backing removal is really something you need to work out for yourself...I managed to figure out a way to do it without crimping the foil....which is bloody easy to do. Here is my plate process: 1. Cut ~ 12" strips. This is basically one wound off the tape spool. The strips are curly at first. 2. Simply pull the strips gently between your fingers a few times and the strips will straighten out. They may crimp in one or two spots, but that's ok. 3. Stamp the plate pattern into the strip. I used the old 'whack a mole' method with my high tech hammer. 4. The nails will be 'indented' into the strip. Rather than trying to straighten these out (burnish) after cutting and placing the plates on the ship, it made more sense to me to 'push' the dimples back in before cutting apart the individual plates. 5. Here is the back of the strip...clearly showing the protruding nail ‘dimples’. Note the background...I'm using an old notebook as a 'backing or support’ which is soft, smooth, and has a bit of 'give'. 6. Using an old 'roller' - can't remember where in the heck I got this thing. It's about 6" long and has stone rollers. I just rolled it along the back of the strip to push in the nail dimples. 7. This is what the strip looks like after #6 above. Nice clean strip...no protrusions. 8. Got this ridiculously small paper cutting gizmo. Actually, I think I got this at a dollar store, not Amazon. But I know they sell them on Amazon. I put in a track to keep the strips aligned. ...cut up the sections. This part goes very very quick. I get about 15 or so plates from one strip. I make about 5 strips at a time...only take a few minutes. 9. Remove the plates from the paper backing and gently apply to the ship...hard not to ding the plates, but at least I was able to create a process which doesn't crimp them before I get them on the ship. The nail pop effect is what I was hoping for....yes, they are not 'to scale' but I'll take my little victory! The marathon continues....

One thing I’m doing differently is ‘burnishing’ the copper strips before I cut them. I got a cheapie roller I use to roll over the strip after I’ve stamped in the bolt patterns. It flattens out the pattern nicely. Then I use a mini paper cutter to chop the sections. I will post pics a bit later.

Did my best to retape the waterline to make the upper belt consistent. Fingers crossed 🤞. Got my system in place for making/cutting/removing the foil plates. It will be a marathon. I’m going to (again) try not to overthink it. Started port side… Since this will take a while, I break up the monotony with deck furniture and stern cannon… Moving on…

Sorry, Ken. Hope I didn’t offend. Was meant to be supportive as I talk myself into jumping in my own coppering! (A bit nervous) Happy New Year!!

Not a bad result, Ken. 👍🏽 Remember she’s not going to be mounted belly side up! Besides, you get to start working on the little fiddly deck bits now! Onwards!!!

Ok…being an open book to my family, I ended up with 3 ship modeling books for Xmas. 🤣🤣🤣

Good advice. Actually, I’ve already done this…a buddy of mine has a great lathe and we were able to take some brass pedestals (not the kit supplied…found some slightly larger alternatives) and grind them to appropriate height. 👍🏽

Your work is marvelous!!🎄👍🏽

Holy crap…those close ups really magnify the wood filler! I have to start my coppering. 😳

P&G’s are tucked in for later…even have a sneaky and easy way to mount them without (knock wood) causing too much damage to the copper once applied. Last thing I wanted to do was prep the false keel. Since the mounting screws go up through the keelson, making the false keel in one piece is possible but tricky. Decided to break it up into sections. The gaps at the mounting screws will be cleanly hidden by the pedestal mounts. Again…just didn’t want to overthink this one. Moving on….

@Gahm, @abelson, Thanks guys! I can honestly say, getting kudos from you two means a lot! Your builds are constant crutches for me…so I must be doing a few things right. 😁

Finished up the other ladder. Yes, some folks mentioned the ladders are a bit ‘thick’. What the hell. 😁 It’s better than my first ladder I made for the Sultana. Also pre trimmed and test fit the gudgeons. I made the decision to trim the gudgeons not to extend beyond the stern piece. Yes, it’s a deviation but not a big one. A lot of brigs (US brigs included) in this era did not wrap the gudgeons out beyond the stern piece. It also saved me from trying to bend around the ‘fat’ planking which I did not sand level with the stern piece. So…lesson learned. The fit looks good…and if I mount them as accurately after coppering, the rudder will both functional and removable. 👍🏽 Moving on….

Please tell me you haven’t given up on your Syren! 🙏🏻 Merry Christmas and happy flying!!!!

I plan to do individual tiles. Most builds approach the coppering this way.

Silk thread servings look awesome. Does the serving unwrap when you cut it? Is there any additional prep for served lines you do like coating in dilute glue, wax, etc. ?

@JJUSNRET JJ, you made my day! 😁 Really appreciate the kind accolade. And I assume you are Navy by your username. I was regular USAF (NCO), from a huge Navy family. I still know more military than civilians. 🇺🇸 Thank you for your service to our beloved country!!

Made my first boxwood deck ladder. Not bad! Making my hatchway ladder. Hoping I can get a bit better symmetry between the two sides.

Ladder lumber made. In the meantime, got my cheapie copper bearings in the mail to replace the other cannon balls. Much more appropriate fit…at twice the size!!!

Took a lesson from my own advice and decided to do a little side project. Ladders. Last time I made one I really didn’t have any idea what I was doing. This time, I’m operating with a few more brain cells of experience. 😁

I live on my Byrne’s saw. 🌲😎

Hi Ken! I know there are a lot of builds out there…some are rough, others are like works from pros. Don’t compare yourself. It’s your ship, and and deviating from the plans is fun! A couple options: 1) Go without rivets at all (who is really going to check?) 2) Paint the hull white below the waterline instead of coppering. For the foil not sticking, a lot of folks recommended sanding sealer or primer. It cleans up the wood surface and gives the foil something to stick to. When your build gets you stressed, do a side project to reset your head and allow your creative juices to give you ideas. It’s a marathon!! (A really long one!) Best Pat

Hi @niwotwill Will, If you go to post #123 in my log, your questions are directly addressed! 👍🏽 Hope that helps! (0.4mm thickness) (1/8” cherry wood sections as sandwich bread 😁 ). Please note the correction. I'm sure this would work with sheets that are 1/16", but did a quick remeasure and find that sandwich sections (cherry wood) was closer to 1/8'. Either way...very easy to cut. One thing to keep in mind is to line up the grain of the wood with the direction of the cut for the strips...cuts much easier I think.

Still futzing with the rudder. Prepared all the pintles. Dry fit with nails. Used a manicure shaping tool to press in the wood in the rudder cavity to ensure a smooth fit with gudgeons. Looking fairly decent. Will use the rudder as it is to mark the gudgeons placement and get those prepared. Not sure how everyone else does it…but I really don’t trust myself in this part. But I am determined to ensure I can remove the rudder. I could have embedded the pins in the pintles. But I wanted some 'room' to play if things got finicky and the fit too tight/restrictive. I can always replace the thinner wire with a 20G copper section which would fit perfectly in the pintle. Moving on…