-
Posts
1,250 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Events
Everything posted by Overworked724
-
See my build log as well. It’s good to take your time here. I overthought it as well. I wanted to be sure I accounted for the width of the deck timber, plus the height of the waterways, plus the width of the carronade mount…and in my case, also the width of the faux deck installed before the deck timber. I saw quite a few builds take the placement of the window sills for granted and realize after the deck was on that the sills were too low to account for the waterways and carronade swivel mounts. It easy to overlook. Measure twice…glue once!
-
🤣 That's a shower curtain with a ship mast against the moon. I’d never build something that big…of course the Syren comes close! in terms of size…after my Syren, I’ll be doing the Woody Joe model of the Stuart Royal yacht…then I’m scaling down to miniatures due to the issue you raised @bobandlucy…space. There’s definitely not enough in Japan!! 🫡
-
Ok…tales of my demise have been greatly exaggerated! I’m still kicking about…just packing and getting ready to sell our house and move. So these might be the last pics of progress for the remainder of the year. (We shall see!) The kit supplied metal figurehead was one piece I did not feel inclined or proficient enough to bash and achieve superior results. So, as I trimmed, polished, and buffed it until I felt I couldn’t get her in any better shape. After a coat of primer, I originally planned to paint it as if it were simply unpainted wood. But since the detail came out so nice, I decided to go for full detailing. Turned out damned nice! The slight nicks and imperfections actually seem to add warmth. A watered down light brown paint to add some weathering. Followed it up with a coat of dull coat. All in all…I’m happy with the result! Moving on!!! (ok. I have to be honest. This was a team effort. A buddy of mine who paints miniatures offered to help me out on the painting. So I’ll only take 1/2 credit on my figurehead. 😁)
-
Hey Steve. My deepest condolences on your loss. 🙏🏻 I’ll keep you and your family in our prayers. I’ve been forced to take a break recently as well. Always looking to your build for ideas and guidance. Your work is inspiring! 👍🏽
- 156 replies
-
- model shipways
- syren
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Can you reach out to Shipways (Model Expo) to get a replacement? I did that for my frames when they were warped out of the box. No issues. They were really good for customer service.
- 100 replies
-
- Syren
- Model Shipways
-
(and 1 more)
Tagged with:
-
Sounds much like the issue I had with my Syren in the early part of my build. I ended up in a similar situation where the planking (not being comfortably shaped to the curvature of the hull) exerted outward pressure on the stem causing some separation. It was recoverable. Wood is forgiving!!! Great job so far!
-
So...spent the last couple days on the 'Capstan Redux' project. It was my own damned fault for using Golden Oak stain. I wasn't thinking and I knew the effect, especially after the stain dried, would be ghastly....and it was. But, it gave me another fun problem to solve. So, here was my brief journey using boxwood to scratch build the capstan. I don't have a lathe...so the little circular sandwich pieces were a problem. So I thought of using my Dremel sanding attachment, and create a sandwich of roughly hewn boxwood sections, then run it across sandpaper. So I cut a bunch, drilled a hole in them, loaded them up, and TaaDaa! 😆 Worked like a charm. I made the top circular section sans hole (photos not shown) by glueing the roughly rounded section to the top of a wooden dowel, sticking it in my drill, and doing the same thing as above....then I just soaked the assembly in water to separate. The cog section was easy to make using my drill press, sandwiching the section between other wood...to get consistent depth and width. The whelps (leg-like sections of the base) were a bit difficult for me. I decided to manually shape them by cutting a groove in the individual sections of boxwood with my table saw and using a straight razor to trim the meat. The gap acts as a terminator to prevent the wood from splitting. I combined together and bulk sanded the little guys using an emery board. This was about as close as I could get to the laser cut pieces. Then I put them all together... And decided I would put in some bolts (nails) on the drum as a nice detail. The two rows of boxwood chocks (yeah...these suckers are small) I created using boxwood strips cut 'cross grain' and sanding them to a point. Then I touch up sanded to ensure the tip 'fit' in the the appropriate section I was filling, then I simply used a straight razor to slice off the end section. This was easy and the grain runs across the width of the wood strip. Then I touch sanded a bit for a good fit before gluing in. This was easier than using a dowel. The end result wasn't perfect....since the holes aren't square. But - again, it's a minor thing and I'm sure I could remake with a perfect square hole if I'd been a bit more careful of my measurements. Final result was a pretty decent redux of the original capstan. And I'll consider this a win over my original attempt using the kit sections. But this was not the kits fault....it was mine. The laser cut parts were easy to separate, prep and assemble, I just screwed up (badly) the staining. So - word to the wise, don't go messing with stain unless you know what it's going to look like!! Here is the final comparison. Kit (left) and my scratch built (right). I'm leaving it completely natural. Moving on....
-
Well…took a side trip and made my capstan from the kit materials. I did a decent job of putting it together. The small triangular sections between each support were easy to make using a cross section of a wooden dowel, divided up like a pie. Made a mistake by staining with Golden Oak. The end result is that it looks like a turd. 😖 I might redo it…we shall see. Baby poop pics below. Definitely not happy with this result.
-
Just putzed a bit with the figurehead. Spent some time polishing it and getting rid of the burrs and roughness. It’s actually a pretty nicely shaped piece after all that…and I’ve double checked the fit and she slides onto the stem like a glove. I had briefly entertained the idea of trying to carve one, but I’m humble enough to admit I’d never come close to this clean of an image. So I’ll plan on painting her…just not sure the effect I’m shooting for…Wood? Copper? Multicolor? Decisions…
-
Nope. Call it a purposeful deviation. I think the P&G’s, polished and with an obvious brass metallic sheen contrasted nicely with the copper. I’m a chemist, and I’m not entirely certain that copper (a soft metal) was used in the P&G’s. Anodic/cathodic reactions would occur due to impurities in the metals available in that age regardless of whether they were the same metals or not. So I’m more inclined to believe they may have been bronze. The copper plating and brass P&G’s will oxidize and take on a different patina. Either way, they look good and the idea of blackening never touched my awareness! 😁
About us
Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research
SSL Secured
Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured
NRG Mailing Address
Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917
Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)
Helpful Links
About the NRG
If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.
The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.
The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.