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Overworked724

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Everything posted by Overworked724

  1. Got the swivel brackets mounted. Was a bit finicky trying to get them mounted square...finally made a little mounting jig called a ‘stick’ to line them up on the edge of the ports.🤣 Moving on...
  2. My super slo-mo build continues. Made some brass rings today. The kit only came with a small assortment of smaller rings, so used some 0.4mm thick brass wire and wrapped it around a #65 drill bit set in a pin vise. Clipped them out with a sprue cutter. Ready for blackening whenever...the brass wire I had was stiff...assumed it was annealed so used a lighter to heat up the wire first...then it bent like putty. Final outer diameter was 1.7mm. Same as the kit (shinier bits on top). Interesting find. In searching for wire, I found a set of cannon with walnut carriages and brass wheels. Compared them side by side with the Shipways kit on the far left (🤮), the Syren parts I ordered in the middle (👍🏽), and my find on the right (🤔). I can’t remember where I got that set...might have been a part of a drawing or find from my ship club, but I’m kind of liking the wider cannon. To be continued!!!
  3. Awesome, Dave! You make really nice use of that lathe. The penny is a bit cheap...you should use a dime! 😎
  4. Think you might be referring to another build log. The L method of making the triangular piece never gave me good results. That’s why I used two dowels glued together to hold the piece. ☺️ But as long as you got er’ dun that’s what counts! Looking good, Red!
  5. One thing to consider on my side has been the doors. More specifically, when to put them on. I mean, theoretically, they could go on last...like even after the flags. There is absolutely no interference from other elements in the build except the chain plates. Which is why I’m questioning when I should install them. So...once I’ve completed them, I’ll just number them up and wait a bit. My figuring here is that if you install them in the open position now, the chain plates become a bit more fussy to install later. It’s a tight fit...especially those two amidships on either side. I’m not certain if I’ll install them closed or open. My carronades fit the shape of the curved opening perfectly. So I might just remake them to fit closed...but it will depend on how well the carronades come out. So...I’ll be waiting a bit before I continue with the doors. ☺️ Decisions decisions.
  6. My super slow motion build continues. Work and some health issues keeping me from shipyard recently. Thought I’d post how I painted the little bits. Got the 1/2 doors for the gun ports painted, but the hinges/handles not installed yet. I secure them on a piece of Tamiya tape which is itself adhered to a wood support by some double sided scotch tape. It makes the painting quick. I plan to paint the carronade swivel brackets next, and start assembly of the carronades as a little side project. I did manage to complete but not yet paint the bow and stern bulkhead port doors. These are rough made and still need some work. I still need to make the stern port doors. Moving on...
  7. The stern name plate method was mine. It was the only way I could think of to get the letters on in a consistent manner. 👍🏽
  8. Take a look at my log - post #477. I provided the way I did it, and it was quick and easy. The triangular pieces actually turned out beautifully.
  9. Dave, you are already miles ahead of me. ☺️ Besides, if my blog on the Sultana helps (not that you need it) than I’m a happy camper. 👍🏽
  10. Nice job so far, Red! That margin was a bit of a buggy bear for me. Yours looks really good. Are you using pencil on the facing edges of the planks to simulate caulking? Looking really good!!! Can you invest in a little space heater for you garage?
  11. Holy crap, Dave. 😳 That’s some awesome work!!! Now I’m wondering if you enjoy modeling or learning new tools to apply to modeling!? 🤔
  12. Thanks! 👍🏽 You are inspiring me. Actually, your investment in the alternative copper plating really has me second guessing. Yours turned out beautiful, as did you pintles/gudgeons. That’s something I’ve been struggling with....
  13. Futzed with the port doors a bit more. Cut in the rabbets on the sides. Touched up by sanding and ready for final painting. Like I said....went a bit over board! After I get the doors prepped, I’ll put them off to the side and get to figuring out the pintles and gudgeons. I really need to get those in my head before jumping on the copper plating.
  14. Ok...so went overboard making my half doors. I softened the edges of the gun slot. Will paint the inner side before cutting them out. The stern and bow doors I’ve decided to make as a single piece and will cut them to fit.
  15. I used my mini table saw (Byrnes saw). I just brought the level of the blade down to 1/2 the plank width (1/32') and ran it along the entire edge on both sides. The sections are made from gluing two 1'8" wide x 1/16" thick strips at the edge using some carpenter's glue. I honestly don't know why I penciled the edges...force of habit? Once I cut the doors, I'll just run the same edge along the blade to cut out the edges. The semi-circle take a few seconds with the thin barrel sander (diameter is a shade over 1/8" thick.
  16. Work is getting in the way again. But the distraction of the gun port doors is kind of fun... I made a bunch of long sections (above). My plan was to carve the edges with my table saw and use a small diameter Dremel sanding barrel to form the rounded cut outs. Then I can paint the long section, cut the doors out, and finish and edge paint the sides to finish them up. Here was my first pass...not bad at some initial trials. Will make the doors en masse now. Some fun pics...
  17. Pounding out thousands (hundreds actually) of brass plates while I plan the pintles and gudgeons. I want to have some idea of the ‘how’ I lay them on before I ‘make’ the darn things. 🤔 Actually, this was my problem on the Sultana. This is a finicky part of the build. After coppering, I can’t just slap them on with the expectation that glue or fingerprints won’t get all over my coppering! I’m taking my time here... Meanwhile, I’m taking a page from @Justin P. ‘s log and decided to distract/procrastinate from coppering by building out the lumber for my gun port doors. I have a unique idea I want to try...so I made a bunch of 2x and 3x layered sections of the spare 1/8” wide cedar planks I had handy. Used pencil again to simulate caulking. More to follow... Bang! Bang! (as I hammer out my copper plates)
  18. She's a beauty, Justin! I can understand your hesitation on drilling the sheaves at the stern and midships. But I'm sure you'll find a good solution. Really enjoying your build. She's glowing!
  19. Thanks Justin! The contrast is an accident...LOL. But I agree with you...it does lend to a subtle difference in tone which I expect is due to the Castello boxwood used for the margin and hawsehole, versus the English boxwood I used for the deck planking. The tape is just for some minor protection - as I have not yet installed the cap rails. They are painted and awaiting install...but I'm hesitant to add them until I'm ready. I have the pins and guide holes drilled in the bulkhead and rails, so install will be painless (he said hopefully). Part of me wants to get the carronades and bulkhead fittings in before I stick on the cap rails. This way I thought I could always adjust if needed - after the little bits are in. Thanks, Dave! The deck did turn out better than I'd hoped. But my painting skills are only average - and that's only when using black paint! 😆
  20. Touch painting done on both sides. Installed and stained (natural) the inboard haweshole guides (not certain what you call them). Also ran the anchor cables through them again after touch ups and the guide install...all good. The deck is done! Took me a while. Moving on...
  21. I love Tamiya paints but XF does have a slight gloss sheen. See my Syren build log for some issues I ran into - and my frustrations in correcting accidentally using an XF. I’m not sure what effect you plan for, but a flat finish (X vs XF) might be worth your investment in time to compare. It’s possible if you are airbrushing an XF would be possible for even finish...but brushing for me meant going with a flat finish to get good consistency. Just my thoughts as Tamiya paints are really nice to work with...just be sure of the finish you are aiming for.
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