Haliburton

Afternoon  all,   right  - washes added  to the  wall, then  glued  down, also  I added  wee bit more  washes  to  the  general areas  to dirty it up a  little, the  log store  still needs  its  extension  placing.
 
OC.

Well, it’s been a while since my last update. Lots of things going on in my household - including an open house for the happy occasion of my mother’s 90th birthday 🎂.  I’ve found this build to be challenging because of the small parts and the instructions being less clear than I’d like. The bevelled edges that need to be glued are also a bit tricky to stabilize as the glue sets.   Here’s a photo of my current progress. Thanks for looking in, Scott
 

There  was one  in my  Revell   kit   - 
 
OC.

Dear all,
a short update with nothing exciting, but I needed to complete some necessary activities in preparation for closing the fuselage halves. One very tedious task was to address the many ejector pin marks on the fuselage inner sides. Then, the interior was furnished and some 'fantasy' cabling was added:

The two halves are now ready to receive some black paint before the interior green. Meanwhile, I finished to weather the bomb bay with the application of some black and brown Tamiya panel liner:

It turned out quite OK when inside the fuselage, although I must say that little of it will be seen because it will be covered by the structures that will held the bombs and half of it will be hidden by the doors of the cannons bay:

In the nose, I am replacing the Browning machine guns muzzles with the very nice Master brass additions:

I will glue them in place later on, probably after the application of the camouflage. I am not going to detail the gun bay and probably I will close this compartment after having glued the muzzle definitively in place. Finally, I am posting a picture of the completed cockpit tested inside the fuselage to show how much of it will be visible:

That is all for now, thanks for following,
Dan

I have commisioned a second figure of Nelson using a new carver with more accurate facial features:
 
These are a work in progress with a little more tweaking required. The render showing Nelson on the plinth was the first. I asked, based on previous feedback, to have dowels on the bottom of the feet and holes to take the dowels in the plinth, if people want to display the figure either on the plinth, or on the deck directly.

Well, it’s been a while since my last update. Lots of things going on in my household - including an open house for the happy occasion of my mother’s 90th birthday 🎂.  I’ve found this build to be challenging because of the small parts and the instructions being less clear than I’d like. The bevelled edges that need to be glued are also a bit tricky to stabilize as the glue sets.   Here’s a photo of my current progress. Thanks for looking in, Scott
 

Well, it’s been a while since my last update. Lots of things going on in my household - including an open house for the happy occasion of my mother’s 90th birthday 🎂.  I’ve found this build to be challenging because of the small parts and the instructions being less clear than I’d like. The bevelled edges that need to be glued are also a bit tricky to stabilize as the glue sets.   Here’s a photo of my current progress. Thanks for looking in, Scott
 

Well, it’s been a while since my last update. Lots of things going on in my household - including an open house for the happy occasion of my mother’s 90th birthday 🎂.  I’ve found this build to be challenging because of the small parts and the instructions being less clear than I’d like. The bevelled edges that need to be glued are also a bit tricky to stabilize as the glue sets.   Here’s a photo of my current progress. Thanks for looking in, Scott
 

Well, it’s been a while since my last update. Lots of things going on in my household - including an open house for the happy occasion of my mother’s 90th birthday 🎂.  I’ve found this build to be challenging because of the small parts and the instructions being less clear than I’d like. The bevelled edges that need to be glued are also a bit tricky to stabilize as the glue sets.   Here’s a photo of my current progress. Thanks for looking in, Scott
 

Well, it’s been a while since my last update. Lots of things going on in my household - including an open house for the happy occasion of my mother’s 90th birthday 🎂.  I’ve found this build to be challenging because of the small parts and the instructions being less clear than I’d like. The bevelled edges that need to be glued are also a bit tricky to stabilize as the glue sets.   Here’s a photo of my current progress. Thanks for looking in, Scott
 

Well, it’s been a while since my last update. Lots of things going on in my household - including an open house for the happy occasion of my mother’s 90th birthday 🎂.  I’ve found this build to be challenging because of the small parts and the instructions being less clear than I’d like. The bevelled edges that need to be glued are also a bit tricky to stabilize as the glue sets.   Here’s a photo of my current progress. Thanks for looking in, Scott
 

And some more features of the fore deck.
Only the grey stuff is Merit, all the rest is brass and resin from Pontos.

 
Until next update, enjoy modelling.

Hi all,
 
This week, just a quick pic of some sub-assemblies I've made up whilst focusing on gardening/planting duties.
 
Below, a couple of side panels, the engine bay bulkhead assembly and the floor with seats and control levers added.  These will all now be put to one side as I concentrate on the next page of the manual, the radio gear.

 
Coming soon, the radio gear and cabinets.

 
Sorry this is so brief. I hope to get back to longer posts in a few weeks.
 
Richard

Ok after a disgraceful delay due to work priorities I finally have gotten back to the Triumph and remembered what I was doing.
I now have two very nice looking wire spoked wheels. The method of leaving a few plastic spokes in place and working your way around the wheel replacing them worked very well, the final wheel remained true and the hub centred. You have to take a little care to keep the correct spoke pattern, but not that difficult once you get your sequence going. One key piece of advice I would have is to make sure the two wheel rim sides are strongly welded together using CA before trying to mount the rubber. Learned that the usual hard way. 
I assembled all the frame tubing and airbrushed it a metallic black, followed by a satin spray to dull it down a bit. I’ll probably do the body components another colour. Mounted the engine, will add some more finish detail with it in place.
 

Next came all the parts for the fore deck:
Bent, soldered, cleaned up and assembled all the parts shown in step 26. Most are Pontos replacements.

 
Until next update, enjoy modelling.

Back to the model:
The last part to prepare for the middle part of the main deck.
Pontos part 519 is bent into a box and soldered, and glued with Merit part G39 to the fore funnelbase.

 
Until next update, enjoy modelling.

As promissed a few post ago: the displaycase.
As I would never have been able to make such perfect joints, I ordered 2 frames, one for my next project, a fully detailed DKM Bismarck (the one in the picture is operational and thus not so detailed) and one for MIkasa (standing).
They came in at last.
In the picture below:
- the 2 frames
- bottomplate for Mikasa
- plexiglass sheets cut to measure
- 1 woodn beam 12 mm thick (as thickness as the horizontal part of the frame
- 1 aluminum profile for LEDstrips
- 1 grey cover for the profile in order to difuse the light
- 2 meter Ledstrip 5V with USB-connector

 
First I drilled a 4 mm hole through the horizontal part of the frame.

 
I drilled 2 10 mm holes for the lampfittingparts (hollow threaded rod 30 mm in length) at a distance exactly maching the holes in the bottom of the model.

 
The 12 mm thick slats turned out to be just a tiny bit less thick than the frame so I cut them to length and added some leftover wood from my Victory-project.

 
The bottomplate is now glued in the center of the frame.

 
and weighed down.

 
After glueing the plexigglass (polycarbonate) I testfitted the showcase in the frame.

 
glueing leaves to be desired, but the fit is perfect.
 
While the clear varnish is drying,
 
I cut the aluminum profile to length to fit exactly in the case, wired up a corresponding length of LED-strip and glued the strip to the profile.


 
Test of the connections

 
Profile attached to the baseboard with superthin double sided tape

 
As the USB-cable was rather short, I replaced is by a computermouse cable.
Here the connection at the underside is shown, easy to repare or replace and allows for many connections to be added as I plan on lighting up the model from within as well.

 
And finaly a picture of the hull on the stand with LED-strip lit (too much light in the room to fully appreciate the effect of the warmwhite light).

 
Until next update, enjoy modelling.

Another update Brothers...
 
She now has a rear end.....
 

And where she resides...

And a reverse low angle shot....

Starting to look like something....
 
The overall shot...

I guess the next item up is the Transmission.... (driveline, truss rods, thrust bearing, brakes, etc., etc....) {chuckle}
 
Onwards...

Well we are starting on the Rear Axle....
 
First parts are the upper spring plates and and lower clamp.... They clamp together over the Axle housing end tubes...
Front side then backside.... 

The reason they used a bearing surface clamp is to allow the Rear End to rotate without deflecting (twisting) the spring... Since it was a solid driveline from axle through the transmission and driveshaft tube to the thrust bearing, they needed the axle/spring connection to rotate which allowed the spring to move up and down while the driveline's angle to the thrust bearing could change as the suspension worked... the Axle would pivot in the clamp...
 
Mounted to the Spring, front and back....

On the backside view you can see the grease cup used to lubricate the axle/clamp bearing surface.... The lower clamp also had the lower shock bracket and jacking plate integral with it's casting.... Really ingenious engineering here....
 
And an overall view showing all the moving parts where they reside on the chassis...
 

Next up, the Axle tube and Differential housing....
 
Onwards....
 
 
 
 

Short update Brothers, Very Short...
 
Since I used the old wheels and just modified their position, I went ahead and added a detail that I forgot when I did them before...
 
The Speedo Gear mounted to the right Wheel...
 

Seems like a minor thing, but it's a detail that is readily viewable and no other model out there has this detail to my knowledge....
 
Now on the her rear end.... {chuckle} 
 
Onwards!!!

Very short update,
 
I went ahead and added the front wheels and tires, there really isn't any improvement I can make on what was designed before so I when ahead and used those....
 
Here is the result...


There is one thing I did do, I added the camber to the wheels that the original car had... This was a simple matter of tilting the wheels outwards at the top.... The state of automobile steering engineering was almost complete at the time the Wasp was built Proportional Steering, Toe, and Camber had been figured out, the only thing left was Castor.... It would be the early 30's before castoring was understood and universally applied... Until then, steering took actual effort on the part of the driver and needed constant monitoring, one moments distraction and you would find yourself heading in a different direction than you intended...
 
Camber....

Combined with Toe-In and Proportional Steering, Camber allowed the centrifugal sideways force of turning to be applied to downward force as the car turned when the wheels turned, the sideway lean of the inside wheel would become greater in the direction of the turn and less on the wheel outside of the turn... This had the effect of the inside tire pulling the car into the turn against centrifugal force while the outer tire holds the line of the turn.... (this is why in a high speed car making a turn has the outside tire blow out, the car makes an immediate turn in the direction of the blowout, the outer tire is no longer there to hold the line of the turn)
 
Simple applied geometry is all steering is... And Camber was the final part to steering being an advantage in holding the road...
 
I guess I'll head to the rear of the car, I need her to be on all four wheels now.....
 
Onwards...

Thank you Richard...
I was trained in paper and pencil a few decades ago when computers were something engineers only dreamed about, CNC had just arrived in the form of punched tape and I was introduced to doing indexed drawing... (dimensioning a drawing from a single base point) to make it easier to program the tape puncher/reader....
 
The software is actually easy to learn, it just takes practice to get used to it... When doing paper you really have to have the gift of visualization to truly understand what your designing, be able to visualize your part in 3-D... With software that takes the  need for visualization skills to the screen, which eliminates the only real natural drawing talent one needs... All 3D is directly visualized on the screen immediately... The other part is figuring out what type of 3-D drawing you need to learn... the artsy side or the numbers side...  I do the numbers, (engineering) side... There are all kinds of 3D artsy websites out there where the artists display their creations, not too many on the numbers side... But then the artsy side is faster, you don't need the accuracy the numbers side does...
 
Like any software in this field, the initial learning curve is tall, but it doesn't take that long to learn the basics.. I'm absolutely convinced that if someone has an interest and a need for computer 3-D drawing, it's relatively easy to learn and anyone with the aforementioned interest can learn it fairly quickly... (just make sure you got the right software to fit your interest, engineering or artsy they are not the same, modelers generally fare better with the engineering side, but the artsy side can do it as well, just takes more work)
 
Again thank you and welcome to the Log...

And another update....
 
Phew that was intense....

You will probably recognize the speedo mounting post, this is the Steering Arm that slips over the right steering knuckle and bolts to the hex portion of the Speedo post....
 
Below is the Right Steering Knuckle with this part in place....

A very ingenious bit of design there....
 
Was a bear to draw though.... {chuckle}  It's probably not exact, but close.... Very close....
 
And this belongs to the Steering group along with the Left Steering Knuckle and Center link....

And of course it mounts to the front Axel's Spindle carriers....

Glad that one is done.... 
And finally the overall look...

Well more detail take more time... (and I get more practice)
 
This one was a brain burner.... I'm sure someone more experienced in Solidworks would have done it easier, cleaner and faster... But for now, I'm calling it done...
 
Onwards...
Probably ready for Front Wheels and Tires....
 

Why thanks Vad....
 
Yep strong.. that's the Marmon way.... the post was heavy cause it held the bracket which held the spur gear up for the ring gear mounted to the wheel to engage, on the other side it held the end of the speedometer cable....
Here is an image of it from the Marmon advertising manuals of the day....

When originally designed, built and raced, (the1909-10 season) it had a speedo... When they brought it out of retirement for the first 500, (it's only race in 1911) it was left off....

Well another short update.... Front Axle....
 
Been adding the spindles carriers...
Left side...

Right side

As you can see I've started adding the details, the Grease Cups and the nuts for the steering knuckles which on the right side has the Cap Nut with the post for the Speedometer gear... (not present on race day)

Rear side...

Here you can see the round bosses for the steering knuckles which were identical left to right... Once those are designed I will then have to add a very special part, the steering arm... On the first front Axle, I designed what would be on the standard Marmon Speedster, I had no other reference... But in reality, it was a part unique to the Marmon Wasp.....
 
For Example....

Front, low and away and the back side.... it is bolted to the Speedometer cap nut on the front, (which locks it in place) loops around the spindle carrier the over the steering knuckle back near the steering cross link... And it's one part...
 
Time to experiment.... May take a while....
 
But I'm still making progress....
 
The ubiquitous overall view...

 
Onwards....