gjdale

Thanks Glen. The blurb says 18” x 17” when complete.

Looking forward to the bottling Glen. In the meantime, there is a treat for you in my signature block........

Introduction I came across this kit by accident some years ago when a fellow modeller posted something about it on the forum here. I can’t remember now exactly who that was, but whoever you are, it’s all your fault! I thought this was a lovely diorama – something I had not tried my hand at before, and even though I’m not a “trains” guy, I was intrigued to learn more. My investigation led me to the SierraWest website, where I learned that this model kit uses a number of interesting and innovative modelling techniques that are certainly new to me. I just had to give it a try. And while I was at it, I couldn’t help myself and bought a “companion” diorama of Foss’ Landing – something for a future build… The kit designer and website owner, Brett Gallant, has done an excellent job of putting this kit together, including a substantial 106pg instruction manual that covers a lot about the techniques as well as building instructions. His website also has several videos demonstrating some of these techniques, and a forum area where there are several build logs of this and other kits. When I broke the kit out the other day, I was thinking it was only a couple of years ago that I had bought the kit(s). When I thought further on this, I realised that it was actually in 2015 that I bought these, fully intending at the time that these would be the “next” model. Well, seven years later, I’m finally ready to start! What’s in the box? The box is well packed and organised, containing a number of individually numbered sealed bags of strip wood and other content, several laser-cut sheets of card, drawings/plans and templates, a box of resin mouldings and metal castings, and a substantial instruction manual. Numbered bags indicate the contents of each: Some bags specific to a particular part of the model: The mouldings and castings: Laser cut card: Windows and mylar inserts: Plans/Drawings: Instruction Manual – wire bound “lay flat” Advance Preparations Construction begins with some advance preparations. Being a railroad model, there is reference throughout the manual to Floquil paint colours. These were discontinued some years ago, and the kit designer now favours acrylic paints from AK Interactive. However, there is no direct conversion suggestion from named Floquil colours. I spent a considerable time researching on the internet to try to get as close a match as I could to the Floquil colours. Try as I might, I could not find a conversion chart that included both the Floquil and AK paints. I ended up using a site that specialised in paint matching, typed in the Floquil colour name and then used the resultant screen depiction to try to match against an AK colour. Although there are certainly limitations on screen/monitor colour representation, I think I got reasonably close in the end. At the end of the day, an exact match isn’t important, but I’d like to be “in the ballpark”. Three Floquil colours are needed for the advance preparation: Grimy Black, Boxcar Red, and Earth. My AK matches were Basalt Grey, Mahogany Brown, and Grimy Grey respectively. Why paint manufacturers use obscure names instead of a scientific identification system is beyond me! First up, Bag #5 is called for: From there we are instructed to extract the three sheets of 4” x 6: tar paper, the laser cut sheet of awnings, and the sheets of laser cut shingles. The three sheets of tar paper are all sprayed with a coat of Grimy Black/Basalt Grey on one side. One sheet has the same on the reverse, while the other two get a coat of Boxcar Red/Mahogany Brown. The laser cut sheet of awnings gets the same treatment, and the laser cut sheets of shingles get a light coat of Earth/Grimy Grey – “just enough to hide the white paper”. This was my first experience of using AK Interactive paints, so I was somewhat apprehensive about leaping in. My research suggested that for airbrushing they should be reduced with AK’s own thinner at a ratio of about 70/30 thinner to paint ratio. So that’s what I did. I took a little while to do some practice and fiddle with air pressure and paint delivery. With the air pressure dialled down (about 15-18psi) and the paint delivery shut almost right down, I was pleasantly surprised at how well it sprayed, with absolutely no tip-dry occurring. Here’s a picture of the completed painted parts. I’ve turned one sheet of the shingles over to show the original state. I’m pretty happy with the colours as they’ve turned out. The other advance preparation was to make up an alcohol stain using non-waterproof black ink dissolved in isopropyl alcohol at a ratio of 1 teaspoon (5ml) of ink to one pint (600ml) of alcohol. More to be revealed on how this will be used, along with plain isopropyl alcohol, later. Okay, we’re off and running – or crawling, anyway!

Yet another Wow! factor Glen, to go with the many already achieved.

Lovely work Bob. She really is looking quite beautiful.

You’ll have to wait a little longer Glen. I’m waiting on delivery of some necessary supplies, and also finishing up a furniture building project at the moment. Suffice to say, it will NOT be something suggested by your son. Teaser……it will be something quite different……..

I finally received the name plaque for my SIB. A couple of final photos – the curvature of the glass bottle made it somewhat difficult to get a good shot.

John, My garage is also my “dirty” workshop. To overcome some of the weather-related issues, as well as to make it a more pleasant environment to work, I put insulation on the inside of the garage door as well as in the roof over the garage, and added a split system reverse cycle air conditioner. I also had an epoxy floor laid and installed a bunch of “daylight” LED panels to replace the somewhat inadequate fluros. It’s now a really nice workshop…….that I still have to share with two cars.

Very impressed by how you managed to get the two hull halves together inside the bottle, Glen. and an ingenious solution to the problem of the ladders. Well played, Sir! 👏👏👏

Yes Bob - matter of fact, I was out riding this morning. Have recently clocked up just over 1,000km and the bike has just had it’s 50hr service. I try to ride at least twice per week with a buddy of mine. We vary between leisurely “cafe rides” and more challenging longer distances.

Thank you very much Glen, Bob, and Dave for the kind comments, and also for all of the likes. Glen - the “scrap” is in relation to it’s use as a furniture piece. It certainly came up nicely with a bit of oil. 😊 Bob - to answer your questions, the two lines that pull the mast up form part of the finished rigging (they become the forestays). They pass through some small holes in the bowsprit. If you zoom in on the photo you will be able to see these holes. Once in position, the lines are held in tension (with a small weight) while a drop of glue is applied (very carefully, with a long bamboo skewer) to the bowsprit holes to fix the lines. Once the glue is dry, the excess line is trimmed with a sharp blade attached to a long “handle” (a long piece of square stock). Another small tool attached to a long “handle” is then used to straighten out the sails/yards as required. ….just wait ‘til you see what’s next…..😎😉

Thanks for the kind comments and the likes folks. I made a simple display base from some scrap walnut I had laying around in the “big” workshop. I had considered doing something more elaborate but, in the end, decided that less is more. I have ordered a small brass name plaque that will be placed on the front bevelled edge, but otherwise I’m calling this done. Final photos (pending receipt of name plaque).

Welcome to MSW, Farmer. You’ll find quite a few of us Aussies here. Regarding first kit choice, you might take a look at the offerings from Vanguard models. Chris Watton (the owner/designer) is producing quality kits across a range of levels, including some nice designs specifically aimed at the beginner and ranging right up to more complex builds. His instructions are first class and you will find many build logs here to help you as well. Chris/Vanguard are also a sponsor of this site. Although they are UK based, you won’t have any issue with importing kits (other than the postage cost!).

Wow Glen, that is ambitious. I’m sure you’ll pull it off though. For myself, I find that I all too often confuse ambition with ability.🥴

Well, she’s in! I didn’t use the kit provided tool to insert the ship into the bottle. Instead I used a very long haemostat that I’ve had in my toolbox for years – I think this may be the first time I’ve used it. Getting the ship into the bottle and placed on the stand within the bottle went relatively smoothly with only a few choice words of encouragement along the way. I was a little concerned that it is only held in place by two very small dobs of 5 min epoxy, but it seems to be holding up okay so far. I let the glue cure for about 90 mins before attempting to raise the masts. This went mainly smoothly, although I had some difficulty re-positioning the sails, gaffs and the yards. In the end I had to say “good enough” as any further messing around was only going to lead to irreparable damage. I now need to complete the display base and mount the bottle on it. I’ll be back in a couple of days with some final completion photos.

Another minor update. I glued the stand inside the bottle today. I wasn’t convinced I’d be able to get the ship’s keel to sit properly on the two fore/aft pegs, so I filed them flat. This will give the added bonus of reducing the height of the ship inside the bottle slightly. I then went to test “fold” everything up to do a test fit in the neck of the bottle, and this is where I ran into my first major problem. It seems that the inner jib needed to be able move along it’s halyard that is also one of the outhauls. If not, it jams the masts and prevents them from lowering properly. That meant that I had to detach the line from where I had glued it to the sail with acrylic matt medium. A nerve wracking task, but I was able to achieve it in the end. I also found a similar problem with the gaff rigged sails. Unless the outer/rear edge of the sail was able to move along that line, it would prevent the gaff from folding up. So I had to repeat the process twice more before I was able to finally get the ship folded up. Then I was able to test fit it into the neck of the bottle. It goes, but there is no doubt that it’s a tight fit. Tomorrow I will make the final insertion into the bottle and hope that I am able to get the sails properly adjusted once the masts are raised.

Looks like it might be interesting getting those two back out again..............

Can’t wait to see the miniature farm Glen!

Another minor update. I completed the rigging today. I chose not to install the large square sail on the foremast as I think it makes it look a little too crowded. The box art also shows the model without this sail installed – good enough for me! I opted not to use any of the kit supplied rigging thread, choosing instead some from my own collection. I used a dark brown for the standing rigging and a light tan for the running rigging. The kit instructions suggest melting the ends of the lines instead of tying knots. I wasn’t convinced that this would hold, so used knots reinforced with a dab of CA glue. The pegs on the bowsprit are holding the outhaul lines in place. Once ready for the “smash and stuff” with the bottle, these will be released and the mast and rigging folded down. Had to get a photo at this point in case it all goes horribly wrong from here! I’m now working on the display base. I’ve found a nice piece of walnut in my furniture timber stash and have made some boxwood dowels as well. The plan is to produce something similar, but not identical, to the display that Glen McGuire used in his excellent rendition of this model.

Nice work Greg. Thanks for the machining tip - something that has always left me scratching my head for a solution.

Great job Chris. I'm sure the kids will treasure this for many years to come.

Looking good Glen.

A minor progress update. The fore/aft sails are connected to their respective gaffs and the gaffs as well as the yards are connected to the masts prior to installation on the ship. Rather than using the kit-provided line, I have used some quilting thread in lieu. The line is attached to the sails using diluted acrylic matt medium. In the picture below, the masts are held in an ordinary plastic clothes peg for stability, and I have inserted a toothpick into the photos as a scale reference. And here is a picture of one of the jib sails, complete with boltrope (which will also become part of the rigging process, and ultimately the means by which one of the masts is raised. Not far from "bottle smash time" now.....

I see your work has been cat scanned and seems to have passed that test! 🤣

That’s quite a feat on the #80 drill bit Glen - no wonder you needed the adult beverages! Even greater feat to achieve the batten making after said adult beverages! 😊 Looking good.