gjdale

Vahur, Would you please post a link to this as I can’t seem to find it in the “Tips and Tricks” section, nor by searching content under your screen name? Thanks

Thanks Glen. I believe that is the intention - to show the growth of the building/business over time. You are quite right Ken and that is exactly what some people do with this structure. I neglected (forgot?) to lift/angle any of the boards as I was going…… so mine is a little less distressed. 😉

Thanks one and all once again for all the kind comments and likes. Progress has been slow but steady, so it's time for an update. The Yard Master’s Office The Yard Master’s Office introduces a slightly new technique for this build. Here we see for the first time the use of clapboard siding. (I believe that in Australia we call this simply “weatherboard”). To achieve this while still using a board-on-board construction technique, the kit designer has cleverly made use of laser cutting to provide a substrate with the correct angles pre-cut. It is then a fairly simple process to apply the boards (prepared in the same manner as previous boards) to the substrate in perfect alignment. Here is a super-close-up to show the design/construction process. In reality, this is so subtle that it wasn’t until I turned the substate end on that I realised what had been provided. Very clever! Here is another “in-progress” shot: And all three walls with siding applied and trimmed up. Some bracing is added to the interior side of the walls (to help prevent warping), and the inside front corners of the two side walls are then bevelled to allow a snug fit with the front wall. Each wall then has windows/doors and window shades applied in the same manner as previously described. The front wall also receives a cast resin vent, that is “rusted up” before gluing in place. Here is the completed Front Wall: The Left Wall (complete with Yard Master sign on the door): And the Right Wall: The walls are then glued up. The rear wall is simply a piece of laser-cut card as it will be glued up against the front of the Warehouse. View blocks are also added. A pre-cut roof substrate is then added, and the ends covered with a fascia board. The roof is then shingled in the same manner as the main building. It was at this point that I realised that I was going to run out of shingle material. I reached out to the kit designer/provider via email and received a response within 6 hours, saying that he would be cutting more shingles next week and would put some extras in the post for me then. Now that’s what I call customer service! Here is where I got to before running out of shingles: I have some more things that can be progressed while waiting for the extra shingles to arrive…

Cider, Thanks for dropping by. IF you look back over my log, you’ll see a note I made about using an airbrush with this size of model - a “standard” airbrush is really too small for the larger panels of the body work, although fine for the smaller parts and details. If you search YouTube for Paul Budzik, he has a range of great tutorial videos on airbrushing and types of airbrush/mini spray guns. The Vallejo Metal Colours are a separate range of Vallejo paints. If you do a search for Vallejo Metal Colours, you should find the range. As for primer, I generally used the Vallejo grey primer. That said, next time around I would not use acrylic paints at all. For my next Pocher model, I’m planning on using either Lacquer or Enamel paints. The Zero brand of paint do a huge range of colours based on actual car colours (although mainly more modern cars). For clear coating, next time around I would use a 2K clear coat over that. It’s nasty stuff, so needs a lot of PPE, but it gives an incredible gloss finish. Hope this helps and please start a build log here when you are ready. It’s the best way to get help and advice.

Thanks Elmer, And a Happy New Year to you and yours as well.

Thanks again for all the kind comments and the likes. The Warehouse Not much work in the Shipyard over the Christmas break, but back into it now. The next order of business is the construction of the Warehouse, which is attached to the front of the main building. All of the techniques used in the construction of the main building are repeated here, so I won’t go into detail. The exception is that the Warehouse doors are steel, so a good rust covering is achieved by applying a combination of two orange chalk powders (one light, one dark) over the brown base. The effect seems to be quite realistic (at least to my eye). I didn’t appear to have any of the stained strips left over from the main building, so had to raid my stash to find some substitute timber. I found some of the correct width, but a little too thick. That was soon remedied by passing them through my thickness sander. Of course, even though I applied the same technique, this batch came out a little differently to my first batch. Unfortunately, I wasn’t as careful as I should have been in the application of glue, and I ended up with a number of glue stains on the walls. I gave them a sand, some further treatment with a wire brush and applied more chalk/alcohol mixture and that made them a little better. Subsequent to this photo being taken, I gave them another go with a wire brush to bring them closer in tone to the main building. Here is a close up of the left wall with the rsuty steel doors. The walls were then glued together and the whole assembly glued to the front of the main building. The roof was tar papered in much the same way as the rear dormer and the roof was fitted after a view block had been inserted. Here are few overall shots to show progress to date. Rear Wall: Right Wall: Left Wall: And Front Wall: The gap is where the Yard Master’s Office will go, and that is next up…

Good decision Peter - you won’t regret it.

Absolutely wonderful Glen! From design concept through execution to final display - just a masterful piece of work. You can be justifiably proud of a job well done. Time to splice the main brace. Just one question - where are your buccaneers? Oh that’s right, under your buckin’ hat! 🤣🤣🤣

I think you would have a ready (and substantial) market for that one Chris. There have been many, many members seeking such a kit over the years.

Thanks again for the kind comments and all the likes. Roof Construction (continued) Shingling continues…. The first task for the other side of the roof was to complete the Dormer roof with Tar Paper and glue into position. In this photo, I haven’t yet finished the weathering of the tar paper. Shingles were then placed as per the previous side, up to the level of the chimney. The Chimney was then placed temporarily in position while the flashing was added on the top and sides of the chimney. The chimney was then removed while flashing was added to the lower side. Shingling then continues, working around the flashing, up to the level of the Cupola, where the lower flashing for it was added. And shingling continued up to the ridge line, again with a special row added along the top edge. In the photo below, you can see that some additional weathering has also been added to the dormer roof. Ridge capping was then added to the main roof and the two dormer roofs. The Cupola roof was also built and shingled at this stage, but I was so engrossed in what I was doing that I forgot to take any pictures of the construction process. Rafters were then added to the two large gable ends, and to the two dormer gables. Rafter “tails” were then cut and added to each side of the main roof. As well as to the sides of the dormer roofs. That completes work on the roof for now. There will be more details added a little later in the build, but for now we turn our attention to the construction of the Warehouse and the Yard Master’s Office….

Great to see you start the build log for this Peter. I know you will do this build justice. Mark, I can attest to this being a full scratch build from Alan Yedlinsky’s 2-volume book set. (I assisted with the transfer of the model from Russell to Peter).

Great job again Glen. I think Keith may have been right. Perhaps you should change your story to, “in a rare moment of brilliance, I decided to add the boats separately”. 😉 I look forward to seeing the final display.

Great work Glen! Loved the video too - must have taken a lot of editing to remove all the swearing and cursing…………… I’m glad it was only 4 minutes long though - I don’t think I could have held my breath much longer!

Thanks Henry, The capping rows for both the dormers and the main roof go on last, once the other side of the main roof is done.

Thanks Glen and also for all the likes. Shingling continues, albeit slowly… Once past the dormers, it is plain sailing up to the cupola. The cupola is constructed in much the same way as the main building - a laser cut substrate with weathered boards and end trim attached, and then windows with peeling paint. Some additional trim is added to the base to lift it off the main roof a little to assist with placing the flashing. Flashing is then added and the shingling up to the ridge line is completed. The final row is comprised of a special set of smaller shingles. Now to turn the opposite side of the roof…

Looking great Glen! Had you considered using SilkSpan for your sails? It would overcome the “problem” (if you can call it that) of the relatively open weave of your current sails. Regardless, this is an outstanding build.

Same here! Me too!!!

Roof Construction (continued) It’s been almost a month since the last update, so thought I’d better show “proof of life”! Of course, it’s been the usual excuses of life getting in the way, but it has been a fairly busy month for things other than modelling. Amongst that was two weeks spent on a Furniture Design Course – my other hobby, 1:1 scale modelling! A great course taught by Canadian furniture maker Michael Fortune - except for the part where we all came down with a particularly nasty Gastro virus (the Noro Virus) on the Thursday of the first week. Fortunately, we were all better again by the time Monday came around, so we didn’t lose too much course time. I finally got back to the modelling bench today and was able to progress with roof shingling. The first task was to insert two odd-shaped pieces around both of the Dormers, underneath where the flashing will go. The Dormer roofs were then installed. Then the flashing was installed on both Dormer roofs where they meet the main roof. These were simply cut from paper templates and painted/chalked as previously done for the Dormer walls. Shingles were then placed from the roof edge to the Dormer roof, overlapping the flashing. These were continued up to the 10th row, just shy of the peak of the flashing, and the side of the Dormer Roof was shingled in the same way. The whole process was repeated at the other end with the opposite Dormer. Next will be to complete the shingling between the Dormers up to the same level. Applying shingles is a little bit like tying ratlines – it seems to take forever, but eventually we’ll get there….

Amazing work Glen!

Rest In Peace Bob. You were a good friend and an inspiration to so many.

Looks pretty good from this distance Glen!

Glad to hear the injury wasn’t more serious Ian. We must constantly remind ourselves that every machine in our workshops is actively trying to murder us! Maybe that’s why my wife is happy for me to spend so much time out there…….. And yes, it’s not a real model if it doesn’t contain your DNA.

Wall Construction – Wall Assembly With the walls complete, they were assembled – in pairs initially – with the aid of my magnetic gluing jig and some small clamps. The two sections were then glued together as a single structure. Here are a few shots going around the building. Two braces are added to the base, to make the structure more rigid and to help keep everything square. A view block is also added by means of a piece of black card cut to fit. Another pair of braces are added level with the top of the side walls, and then the ridge beam is glued in place. Roof Construction The roof substrate is a laser-cut piece of card with some clever engineering to help with placement of the shingles (more on that later). The underside and edges are painted first, and the roof card is then glued in place. At this point the two right wall Dormers are also glued in place. Joists are then added to the underside of the Dormers as previously done for other dormers. Shingles are provided in the form of laser cut paper strips on carrier sheets. These had a preliminary preparation way back at the start under “advance preparations” when they were given a light spray of AK11008 Grimy Grey (my substitute for Floquil Earth). The shingle strips are now cut from the carrier sheets and individually treated with chalk and alcohol. The basic procedure is to scrape some raw umber chalk (Rembrandt 408.3) over the strip, then blot with a soft round brush dipped in alcohol. A little white chalk is immediately scraped on top, and the same brush used to blot and blend most of it in. Once all these strips have been so treated and are dry, a stiffer, dry brush is used to blot some grey chalk (Rembrandt 408.9) randomly on top. This gives a nice, aged appearance with some natural variations between strips. Some leftover solid scraps from the carrier sheet were also saved and treated in the same way as these get used for part of the shingling process. Now for the clever part of the roof design. The lines visible on the roof card are actually strips that peel away to reveal adhesive beneath. We begin by measuring and cutting a plain strip (from the scrap), and then lifting the first row of adhesive and placing the strip. This additional strip, lifts the first row of shingles off the roof in a very prototypical way. The first row of shingles is then measured, cut, and glued on top of this row. I forgot to take a picture of the first step, but here is the first row of shingles in place. After this first row, strips of shingle are simply measured, cut and placed by simply revealing the next row of adhesive. The protective paper on the row above acts as a guide to but the shingle layers against. The strips of shingles are also provided with an even number of whole and half shingles on the ends, so it is easy to alternate rows such that the rows of shingles are staggered. Here is the second row in place. And the third row. And here is the first three rows in place across the entire side of that roof. I could be at this for a while yet…

So nice to see you back on the forum Mark - I hope we will be seeing more of you soon.

Nice recovery Glen!