gjdale

well my first attempt at lacing 

Lovely piece of joinery there Danny.

Water and Heat are your friends when it comes to bending wood Phill. Everyone has their own preferred method for this, but mine is to soak the wood and the apply heat from an old steam iron. Sometimes, just soaking the wood and then clamping in place on the hull while it dries, is sufficient. Bend to shape and allow to dry BEFORE applying glue.

Looking good Phill.

Lovely piece of joinery there Danny.

Water and Heat are your friends when it comes to bending wood Phill. Everyone has their own preferred method for this, but mine is to soak the wood and the apply heat from an old steam iron. Sometimes, just soaking the wood and then clamping in place on the hull while it dries, is sufficient. Bend to shape and allow to dry BEFORE applying glue.

You may have noticed in the previous post that I've also done the Upper Well. This is a fairly tricky assembly to get right.
 
First I temporarily fitted the two upper deck beams above the well, then I cut and rebated the five well stanchions. When these were all adjusted for a good fit I cut the rebates for the louvres at a 30 degree angle on the table saw :
 

 
After cutting the louvres (which are 0.8mm thick by 3.18mm wide) I glued one at the top and one at the bottom between two stanchions in situ :
 

 
Then I glued in the rest of the louvres off the ship - they all fitted very well. Some pics of all the louvres fitted and the well in position (not glued in yet) :
 

 

 
There is an access door in the forward Starboard corner. I glued several thin strips to a flat piece of stock for the framing, and added a handle and hinges from the PE set :
 

 
The door fitted :
 

 

 
  Danny

I've finished the lower deck planking, and also the two strakes of Spirketting below the Upper Deck Clamp. Some cleaning up and a coat of finish still need to be done, but I'm leaving that until after the knees are fitted :
 

 

 
  Danny

As we go on with the review, here come the next few parts
First the eyelets on the bottom of the lower carriages, they are simple soldered brass parts.




 
Also the front wheels had to be made. The wheels are turned from 4mm brass rod, they measure 3,8mm diameter, and width of 3mm, the axels are 0,8 x 0,8 mm.

 
Uper carriage prepared for wheel mounting, the upper holes are drilled a bit larger. This is necessary to set the holder plates at a correct angle.

 
Mounting setn for one side wheel mount: 2 holders, 2 screws & nuts M0,6, 1 roller. The small brass tube was used as a wrench. The tube was slightly flattened, then I use a really small amount of silicone for sanitary use inside the tube, and fixed the hexnut into it. This holds the nut as long as it is needed, and releases it when all is fixed.

 
Right side done.

 
Both front whhels mounted, all that was made for 12 gun carriages.................
 
Best regards, thank you for all your "likes", and comments
Gerhard
 
 
 

Thank You....
 
Its just a matter of slowing down and taking your time.   Not rushing is a huge part of it.  I think everyone can do the same but I see so many folks running through their projects like they are in a race.  Should parts not fit correctly...throw them away and do it again.   It took me about 2 hours to paint the stern after making the seats and adding the cleats.  It took me about 1 hour to just paint one ladder after making it.  Many thin coats being careful not to get any dust on it.  Sanding carefully when imperfections and brush strokes take place.  The key in my mind is to just slow down....my best advice for any model builder.
 
Chuck
 

I just learned the 400 pages of the booklet to drive the drone as on the first picture.
The other pictures are the result of the camera on board.

Thanks all for the kind words, and thanks again Greg for the extra PE pieces - they made work a fair bit easier .
 
Sorry about the length of time between updates, but I had computer issues (AGAIN - gotta get a new one ) .
 
It's time to make the Main Mast, or a stump thereof anyway. I tapered and rounded it in similar fashion to the masts and yards on the full model - first marking the tapers, then sanding them to shape on the disc sander, remarking the edges of the octagons using the 7-10-7 method, cutting the octagons with a sharp chisel while supporting the mast in my jig, then finally rounding them with various grits of sandpaper on a cork block :
 

 

 

 
Next I cut the step in for the heel :
 

 
I turned the mast Wedges in a single piece. There is one for each deck :
 

 
Some views of the mast and wedges temporarily fitted to ensure correct alignment :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

Well I finally glued the two halves together. They came together reasonably well but it highlights a problem with the type of build, that is, building one half at a time.  The end result was, whilst I ensured that the deck came together well, the hull had a very slight bow in it.  However, as I was using filler as my base for painting I was able to fill any gaps in the hull easily and after about four hours of sanding and refilling and further sanding I now have a hull that is in good shape for painting when I get to it.
 
I also had to make a couple of ad hoc repairs to a  couple of small pieces that I broke, but they came up OK.I also managed to break one of the planks that come around the stern of the boat so I will have to think about fixing that down the way. It is one of the problems with this build that requires the top three planks to overhang the stern and they are open to damage and sure enough fumble fingers damaged a piece. Ah well I am sure this won't be the last mistake I make.
 
My next move is to attach the stern pieces and to do this I think I have to bend the planks slightly around a stern piece that I am yet to find,  The instructions in the book are sadly lacking consisting of five paragraphs and the plans.  I also have a book by Keith Julier called "The Period Ship Handbook 2" in which he discusses, briefly the building of 10 ships, Yachts and a canoe. It offers some hints but even then there still is a dearth of info.
 
One of the things he suggests at this stage is to build the stand as one can place the model on it to work, unfortunately he does not advise how he builds it and neither does the Billings build information. There is no way that the pieces in the kit will hold the boat as the upright stands are too small and I note that Mr Julier shows an additional block of wood above the kit stands for his build. Unfortunately the kit does not have this extra timber so I shall have to decide what to use and how large it should be as well as how to ensure it is strong enough for the ship.
 
StillI I am happy where I am and once the stern and bow is completed I shall fill, sand and be ready to add  strakes, portholes and propellors etc And  then start to paint.
 
Phill
 
PS.  The shape of the hull at the bow in the third photo is not as enlarged as it appears in the photo...sort of like Scnozzle Duarante's Schnoz.  It is better in actuality and due I think to a foreshortening effect of the photo position.....at least I hope that it is. Also the unlike the first photo the hull is actually quiet straight.
 
l

As I wrote above, there were more of mass production parts. Next to do were the pivot holders to the lower carriages. I made them from 0,1mm brass sheet.
 
The holes were marked with a steel needle, and then pierced through


 
The backside of the sheet lokked like this, the ridges were filed away, and the sheet bend back to flat


 
Then opened the holes to correct size, bend the flat plates  to 90° angle, and filed to rounded shape


 
As a last step the holders were mounted to the lower carriages. For drilling the mounting holes I use a sawing needle, that does not break so easy like normal drills do.

 
Front and rear holders have different shapes, but both are made the same way. They all are painted with black "silk type" colour, I paint mostly with Revell colours.


 
 
back soon for more, thank`s for watching and your likes............
 
Regards
Gerhard

Just think of it as getting to enjoy the process 3 or 4 times Robbyn - not nearly as frustrating that way. And remember, it's not a race and we're a pretty patient bunch of spectators.

Just think of it as getting to enjoy the process 3 or 4 times Robbyn - not nearly as frustrating that way. And remember, it's not a race and we're a pretty patient bunch of spectators.

Okay Boyd, since you asked, you need one! And no, you can't live without one. There now, feel better?
 
Yes there are others that would possibly do the job, but the difference is, the Byrnes saw is an absolute joy to use. It will bring a smile to your face every time you use it. And after all, don't we do this hobby for enjoyment? It will certainly come into its own when you start scratch building, but even kit bashing will give it a serious workout. If you're looking for it to "pay for itself", it will do that if you mill your own lumber to size - eg buy sheet stock from Hobbymill and rip it down to size. BUT, you don't buy one of these works of engineering art to pay for itself. You buy one because you can! And for the sheer enjoyment of using it.
 
So, have you placed your order yet?
 
Oh, and don't forget to order the Byrnes Disc Sander at the same time. That brings almost as big a smile to my face, and probably gets used even more frequently than the saw.
 
Let us all know when you've pulled the trigger on this/these. :)

Just think of it as getting to enjoy the process 3 or 4 times Robbyn - not nearly as frustrating that way. And remember, it's not a race and we're a pretty patient bunch of spectators.

Just think of it as getting to enjoy the process 3 or 4 times Robbyn - not nearly as frustrating that way. And remember, it's not a race and we're a pretty patient bunch of spectators.

I have finished the fixed caps on both sides of the quarter deck and am preparing the open rails. Some of the main supports are the swivel gun posts so I started with these.
  For barrels I used Caldercraft 1:64 scale 0.5 pounders. At 14mm long they are about 2mm too long but I thought they would be OK.   They are nicely turned but where they had been parted were a little rough so some tidying with a fine file was needed.   At the rear of the barrel is a hole. To represent the handle I used 0.7mm nickle silver wire. For the knob on the end I cut 0.5mm lengths of 1.25mm brass tube which I threaded on to the wire and fixed with a blob of silver solder. A little tidying with the file produced the final ball shape. The wire was trimmed so that when fitted it protruded by 8mm from the rear of the barrel. The trunnions were more 0.7mm wire. All these items were silver soldered together, the handle shaped and blackened.     To make the "U" shaped supports I produced a filing jig similar to the one I used to make the chain links for the pump <here>    . In this case I produced one "link" per gun with holes 6mm appart. I silver soldered a length of 0.7mm nickle silver wire to the middle of these then curved the links in to a "U" shape. These were blackened and fitted to the barrels.   The trunnions on the barrels had been left slightly long so with the supports in place I filed them to length. This produces small burrs which lock the supports in place.     The following photo shows the first barrel mounted on a temporary piece of wood. Some of the blacking had not taken very well so I cleaned it up and repeated the process to better effect.     To get the construction of the post and cap right I produced a rough diagram:     I am using 3 x 3 mm beech for the posts which will be shaped in to a "squared D section". The caps will be brass with the same cross section. The caps will have a circular hole in the centre to fit on the end of the post.   The caps were made from 6mm diameter brass rod. I first mounted it in the lathe and drilled the centre 2.5mm. This was then moved to the dividing head on the mill to machine it to the "D" shape. The faces were at 0, 45, 90, 135, 180 and 270 degrees.   This was returned to the lathe and each cap was turned off 2mm long.   Each cap was then soft soldered on to a sheet of 0.3mm nickle silver to close the top of the cap. A 0.7mm hole was then drilled in the middle of this to take the cannon. The cap was blackened.   The cannon was then fitted to the cap and retained in place by glueing a short length of 1.25mm tube as a collar on the end of the support rod avoiding gluing it to the cap.   The top of the beech post was drilled 1.3mm to clear this collar.     The cannon and cap were temporarily fitted to the top of the post. When permenantly fixed it will swing from side to side and up and down - no doubt someone will try it in future!       Now to finish off the other 11 swivels.  

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 147 – Ship’s Boats 3
 
In the last part the frames were installed on the port side of the plug.  The first picture shows the starboard side framing in progress.
 

 
 
The frame strips were left to soak in water overnight, making them very flexible.  They were then brushed with glue where they would mate with the opposite frame and the keel and then pushed under the keel.  Each frame was then pinned down at both ends and sometimes in other places as shown in the picture.
 
The next picture shows the topside plank on the starboard side being installed against the nailed guide strip.
 

 
I intend to leave this side unplanked to show the framing, so only the wale below the top plank will be installed on this side.  On the other (port) side, the nailed guide strip and this top plank were also installed.  The next picture shows the keel rabbet being pared out on the port side to prepare for the garboard strake.
 

 
The rabbet at the deadwood and on the stem were pared out first with a V-gouge as shown in the picture.  These areas were then cleaned up and the remainder of the keel rabbet formed using the barette file shown in the next picture.
 

 
The garboard strake was then installed as shown below.
 

 
Back on the starboard side the channel wale was installed just below the top plank while glue was drying on the port side planking.
 

 
I mentioned earlier that all the work shown above was done on longboat two, the second to be made.  At the same time, work was proceeding on the first boat.  The next picture shows that boat fully planked below the channel wale on both sides.  The wale has been temporarily inserted so the top plank can be glued on.
 

 
As on the ship’s hull, boats will be painted, and the channel wales shown in a contrasting color, so they will be glued in after painting of both the hull and the wale to ensure a clean line.  In the next part I will pick up on work to finish longboat 1.
 
Ed
 

Sorry to hear you've been feeling poorly Jesse. Clearly though, you've had a cat scan! :P

Sorry to hear you've been feeling poorly Jesse. Clearly though, you've had a cat scan! :P

Sorry to hear you've been feeling poorly Jesse. Clearly though, you've had a cat scan! :P

Sorry to hear you've been feeling poorly Jesse. Clearly though, you've had a cat scan! :P