bartley
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bartley got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 38: The Carronades
This is a first for me (my previous build had no guns) so I am enjoying the process but it is quite a slow business for me . I quite like the look of black trucks but being mindful of the discussion on this point from Druxey and others it seems that the consensus is "any colour but black" so I have gone with red. I placed a few on deck to see how they would look. Just as on the chain plate straps, I used chuck's method for the blackening of the cannons (painting followed by weathing powder).
The rigging of the guns is next. The breech rope is quite straight forward using the method described by Chuck but I am finding fabricating the in-haul tackle much more of a problem. I am exploring a few methods at the moment n order to find one that is quick enough to make the 40 or so blocks with hooks yet produces an acceptable appearance.
John
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bartley got a reaction from MEDDO in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Yes Glenn,
After all they are our models so we can do what we want.
I think that the main issue was that someone wanted to use black rims to simulate metal bands so it was pointed out it that would not be done on a ship as it would damage the deck. Then that morphed into avoiding black altogether because it looked like metal. But our gunwales are black and no one says the look like metal!
John
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bartley got a reaction from archjofo in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 38: The Carronades
This is a first for me (my previous build had no guns) so I am enjoying the process but it is quite a slow business for me . I quite like the look of black trucks but being mindful of the discussion on this point from Druxey and others it seems that the consensus is "any colour but black" so I have gone with red. I placed a few on deck to see how they would look. Just as on the chain plate straps, I used chuck's method for the blackening of the cannons (painting followed by weathing powder).
The rigging of the guns is next. The breech rope is quite straight forward using the method described by Chuck but I am finding fabricating the in-haul tackle much more of a problem. I am exploring a few methods at the moment n order to find one that is quick enough to make the 40 or so blocks with hooks yet produces an acceptable appearance.
John
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bartley got a reaction from mtaylor in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Yes Glenn,
After all they are our models so we can do what we want.
I think that the main issue was that someone wanted to use black rims to simulate metal bands so it was pointed out it that would not be done on a ship as it would damage the deck. Then that morphed into avoiding black altogether because it looked like metal. But our gunwales are black and no one says the look like metal!
John
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bartley got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
My wife and I are keen opera fans and although there is no live opera at the moment, the Metropolitan Opera in New York is streaming a different opera every day including some performances from the 60's and 70's starring performers like Big Lucy Pavarotti and the legendary black American soprano Leontyne Price. The effect on my ship modelling can be seen in the attached photo!
John
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bartley got a reaction from Captain Poison in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 38: The Carronades
This is a first for me (my previous build had no guns) so I am enjoying the process but it is quite a slow business for me . I quite like the look of black trucks but being mindful of the discussion on this point from Druxey and others it seems that the consensus is "any colour but black" so I have gone with red. I placed a few on deck to see how they would look. Just as on the chain plate straps, I used chuck's method for the blackening of the cannons (painting followed by weathing powder).
The rigging of the guns is next. The breech rope is quite straight forward using the method described by Chuck but I am finding fabricating the in-haul tackle much more of a problem. I am exploring a few methods at the moment n order to find one that is quick enough to make the 40 or so blocks with hooks yet produces an acceptable appearance.
John
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bartley got a reaction from Matt D in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 38: The Carronades
This is a first for me (my previous build had no guns) so I am enjoying the process but it is quite a slow business for me . I quite like the look of black trucks but being mindful of the discussion on this point from Druxey and others it seems that the consensus is "any colour but black" so I have gone with red. I placed a few on deck to see how they would look. Just as on the chain plate straps, I used chuck's method for the blackening of the cannons (painting followed by weathing powder).
The rigging of the guns is next. The breech rope is quite straight forward using the method described by Chuck but I am finding fabricating the in-haul tackle much more of a problem. I am exploring a few methods at the moment n order to find one that is quick enough to make the 40 or so blocks with hooks yet produces an acceptable appearance.
John
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bartley got a reaction from MEDDO in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 38: The Carronades
This is a first for me (my previous build had no guns) so I am enjoying the process but it is quite a slow business for me . I quite like the look of black trucks but being mindful of the discussion on this point from Druxey and others it seems that the consensus is "any colour but black" so I have gone with red. I placed a few on deck to see how they would look. Just as on the chain plate straps, I used chuck's method for the blackening of the cannons (painting followed by weathing powder).
The rigging of the guns is next. The breech rope is quite straight forward using the method described by Chuck but I am finding fabricating the in-haul tackle much more of a problem. I am exploring a few methods at the moment n order to find one that is quick enough to make the 40 or so blocks with hooks yet produces an acceptable appearance.
John
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bartley got a reaction from mtaylor in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by glbarlow - FINISHED - 1:48
Great build Glenn!
I am interested in your brass support pedestals. Cheerful is only my second build and my first one came with wooden pedestals.
Did you make them yourself or are they available commercially?
John
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bartley got a reaction from glbarlow in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by glbarlow - FINISHED - 1:48
Great build Glenn!
I am interested in your brass support pedestals. Cheerful is only my second build and my first one came with wooden pedestals.
Did you make them yourself or are they available commercially?
John
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bartley reacted to MEDDO in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
That rudder and tiller look really nice.
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bartley got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 37: The Tiller
The fabrication of the tiller was straight forward. I glued the profile from the plan to 2 mm boxwood sheet with a glue stick. I prefer this method of attaching paper rather than PVA as it us easily removed with alcohol leaving no residue. Then, after cutting out the shape with my Knew jeweler's saw, I used files and sanding sticks to make a round profile. I found that leaving a chunky handle made the sanding process easier
I will not install it yet as it is quite fragile and I am concerned that it might snap while I am adding other deck fixtures
John
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bartley got a reaction from mtaylor in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 37: The Tiller
The fabrication of the tiller was straight forward. I glued the profile from the plan to 2 mm boxwood sheet with a glue stick. I prefer this method of attaching paper rather than PVA as it us easily removed with alcohol leaving no residue. Then, after cutting out the shape with my Knew jeweler's saw, I used files and sanding sticks to make a round profile. I found that leaving a chunky handle made the sanding process easier
I will not install it yet as it is quite fragile and I am concerned that it might snap while I am adding other deck fixtures
John
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bartley got a reaction from Ryland Craze in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 37: The Tiller
The fabrication of the tiller was straight forward. I glued the profile from the plan to 2 mm boxwood sheet with a glue stick. I prefer this method of attaching paper rather than PVA as it us easily removed with alcohol leaving no residue. Then, after cutting out the shape with my Knew jeweler's saw, I used files and sanding sticks to make a round profile. I found that leaving a chunky handle made the sanding process easier
I will not install it yet as it is quite fragile and I am concerned that it might snap while I am adding other deck fixtures
John
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bartley got a reaction from CiscoH in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
A few people have asked me what power tools I use. I have to confess to living in the dark ages a bit as the only power tool I own is my Byrne's saw which I now could not live without, though I do have access to a mill via a mutual arrangement with a fellow builder. Here is part of my basic tool set:
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bartley got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 36: Pin Rails
The port pin rail is now installed. Rails are made from 3/64 strip and 4 mm deep. O.9 mm holes keep the pins reasonably tight:
Starboard still to do and the bow rail will need to be replaced as I drilled the holes too large,
John
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bartley got a reaction from JpR62 in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 37: The Tiller
The fabrication of the tiller was straight forward. I glued the profile from the plan to 2 mm boxwood sheet with a glue stick. I prefer this method of attaching paper rather than PVA as it us easily removed with alcohol leaving no residue. Then, after cutting out the shape with my Knew jeweler's saw, I used files and sanding sticks to make a round profile. I found that leaving a chunky handle made the sanding process easier
I will not install it yet as it is quite fragile and I am concerned that it might snap while I am adding other deck fixtures
John
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bartley got a reaction from MEDDO in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 36: Pin Rails
The port pin rail is now installed. Rails are made from 3/64 strip and 4 mm deep. O.9 mm holes keep the pins reasonably tight:
Starboard still to do and the bow rail will need to be replaced as I drilled the holes too large,
John
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bartley got a reaction from GrandpaPhil in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 35: Installation of the Rudder
I shaped the rudder as described by Chuck in his post. Tapering towards the aft edge and a steep tapper on the front edge. I deviated a little from Chuck's guidelines in the installation of the Pintels and Gudgeons. Chck makes up the center piece with its two straps and then attaches it to the rudder. I found it easier to attach the center piece to the rudder in the correct position and then glue on the straps to the rudder and the center piece. I drilled the bolt holes a little deeper into the rudder and inserted short lengths of 22 gauge wire snipped of close. Again as described by Chuck
I glued the the center gudgeons to the hull in a similar way and then added the strap but I used a length of wire to keep them aligned.
The rudder was then hung at the red painting completed at the top.
John
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bartley got a reaction from KARAVOKIRIS in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 36: Pin Rails
The port pin rail is now installed. Rails are made from 3/64 strip and 4 mm deep. O.9 mm holes keep the pins reasonably tight:
Starboard still to do and the bow rail will need to be replaced as I drilled the holes too large,
John
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bartley got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 30: Eyebolts and Cleats
there are a number of eyebolts and several cleats to be installed and this has occupied me for the last few days. I am always concerned about these commercial eyebolts pulling out when the tension is axial. When the tension is at right angles there is not a b problem of course and here most of the deck ringbolts are not used.
It has only really happened to me a couple of times but can a real pain if it happens late in the rigging process when the deck is not so accessible so I make my own by the "twisted pair" method. This is copper which is a bit soft but I cannot access brass in very many diameters. After they are made they are chemically blackened of course
These were made from 24 gauge wire twisted around a 1.4 mm drill. For bolts with a ring. For bolts with a ring a 1.0 mm drill was used with the ring in the eye of the bolt. Rings were made by winding 24 gauge wire around a 2mm drill to form a spiral and then snipping it down the center.
For the gun tackle eyebolts again a 1 mm drill was used.
Here is a picture showing the the deck eyebolts
There are several cleats along the bulwarks and for these Syren cleats were used with a bit of shaping to give a reasonable appearance. (see the image in the previous post).
John
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bartley got a reaction from Canute in Silver soldering
I totally agree Patrick. I solder most of my rings closed and when using true silver solder the annealing makes them so sloppy I may as well use a rubber band! There is little force on these rings so Stay-Brite provides adequate strength.
John
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bartley got a reaction from mtaylor in Silver soldering
I totally agree Patrick. I solder most of my rings closed and when using true silver solder the annealing makes them so sloppy I may as well use a rubber band! There is little force on these rings so Stay-Brite provides adequate strength.
John
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bartley got a reaction from michael mott in Byrnes Table Saw making a 1mm by 1mm strip
Excellent advice, Bob. I would add Rule 4: Rehearse the cut. i.e. without the saw running push the work through exactly as you plan to do. This enables you to answer questions like - where will my hands be? Is there any obstruction on the exit side? etc.
John
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bartley got a reaction from Bob Cleek in Byrnes Table Saw making a 1mm by 1mm strip
Excellent advice, Bob. I would add Rule 4: Rehearse the cut. i.e. without the saw running push the work through exactly as you plan to do. This enables you to answer questions like - where will my hands be? Is there any obstruction on the exit side? etc.
John
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