bartley
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bartley got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 5
Framing the Stern
Following Chuck's suggestions, I first glued in the main outer frames (z)
Then the outer frames themselves (zz) are glued to these:
And the whole assembly faired to match the hull:
After installing the central frames, the gun-port sills and lintels were installed. As reported by others, I found this step surprisingly tricky and I had to un-glue and reinstall several times! I used a level and a sized block to ensure that each was level with the waterline and sized the same:
Here is the result
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bartley got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Here are some further images of the result
I also lined the chase ports as others have done on this forum (BE and Mike)
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bartley got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 4
I have now finished the Gun-port linings. I used the method recommended by Chuck using a batten to obtain smooth curve. Although I eyeballed the port and starboard battens to make sure they were the same. I also double checked by using a level as here:
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bartley got a reaction from Jonny 007 in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Although it is difficult to see in a photo, I think its done now. Time to move on.
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bartley got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
The starboard side at least is looking close. I notice from Chuck's pictures that there is virtually no lasr char left anywhere so maybe I need to go a bit further?
John
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bartley got a reaction from Jonny 007 in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
After a false start in which I snapped off the bow extension when removing the bulkhead former from the sheet! Things seem to be going well now. The two sections of the bulkhead former were glued together and the rabbet strip glued in place.
The stem pieces and the keel were sanded on their faces to remove laser car but the edges were left unsanded. The treenails were simulated as described by chuck using a 0.5 mm drill and filling with neutral filler. After a coat of wipe-on-polly they were glued to the bulkhead former and fitted well with out the need for fettling.
As recommended by Chuck no laser char was remove from the bulkheads and all fitted firmly. Care was taken to retain each one square in all directions.
The bow and port filler blocks are added.
Next comes, for me, the challenging process of fairing the hull correctly
I think I have a way to go yet but trial battens are beginning to look close. I am taking a rest now. I think patience is the key here I am a little concerned about taking too much of the stern as others report it getting too narrow here.
John
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bartley got a reaction from Jonny 007 in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 16
A few minor illnesses and a bit of much needed work on the yard have kept me out of the shipyard for a while but have made a bit more progress lately. The first ten strakes are on each side now.
And I have completed the square tuck now as well
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bartley got a reaction from BobG in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 16
A few minor illnesses and a bit of much needed work on the yard have kept me out of the shipyard for a while but have made a bit more progress lately. The first ten strakes are on each side now.
And I have completed the square tuck now as well
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bartley got a reaction from KARAVOKIRIS in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 16
A few minor illnesses and a bit of much needed work on the yard have kept me out of the shipyard for a while but have made a bit more progress lately. The first ten strakes are on each side now.
And I have completed the square tuck now as well
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bartley got a reaction from Blue Ensign in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 16
A few minor illnesses and a bit of much needed work on the yard have kept me out of the shipyard for a while but have made a bit more progress lately. The first ten strakes are on each side now.
And I have completed the square tuck now as well
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bartley got a reaction from mtbediz in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 16
A few minor illnesses and a bit of much needed work on the yard have kept me out of the shipyard for a while but have made a bit more progress lately. The first ten strakes are on each side now.
And I have completed the square tuck now as well
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bartley got a reaction from Ryland Craze in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 16
A few minor illnesses and a bit of much needed work on the yard have kept me out of the shipyard for a while but have made a bit more progress lately. The first ten strakes are on each side now.
And I have completed the square tuck now as well
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bartley got a reaction from Seventynet in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 16
A few minor illnesses and a bit of much needed work on the yard have kept me out of the shipyard for a while but have made a bit more progress lately. The first ten strakes are on each side now.
And I have completed the square tuck now as well
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bartley got a reaction from oldmate in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 16
A few minor illnesses and a bit of much needed work on the yard have kept me out of the shipyard for a while but have made a bit more progress lately. The first ten strakes are on each side now.
And I have completed the square tuck now as well
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bartley got a reaction from JpR62 in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 16
A few minor illnesses and a bit of much needed work on the yard have kept me out of the shipyard for a while but have made a bit more progress lately. The first ten strakes are on each side now.
And I have completed the square tuck now as well
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bartley got a reaction from geordie12 in Record Power - any experience with their power tools?
I believe that these are probably Chinese. They are sold all around the world under different badges. Even Ryobi sell what looks like exactly the same saw. I own one which I bought some time ago for A$80. It is OK for basic curve cutting but not very precise compared to a quality band saw It has no fence so straight cuts are difficult. You get what you pay for.
John
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bartley got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 15
Lining out the hull.
I did this several times but in the end the difference between the various versions was only around 0.5mm. There seems to be no tapering required aft of about bulkhead B. I hope this is correct!
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bartley got a reaction from Jonny 007 in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 14
Finishing the wales.
The second layer of the wales was added and painted black. I painted the edges first as I was not confident that I could do this afterwards and not get paint on the planking.
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bartley got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 13
Chuck suggests adding the second layer to the Wales at this stage. However, others on the site have suggesting added the next two layers of planking first and so I adopted this course of action. I found the drop plank a bit tricky to fit but after several paper patterns I developed a better understanding of what the shape should and I am now satisfied with the fit.
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bartley got a reaction from Archi in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 15
Lining out the hull.
I did this several times but in the end the difference between the various versions was only around 0.5mm. There seems to be no tapering required aft of about bulkhead B. I hope this is correct!
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bartley got a reaction from Jonny 007 in HM Cutter Cheerful 1806 by bartley - FINISHED - 1/48 scale
Post 15
Lining out the hull.
I did this several times but in the end the difference between the various versions was only around 0.5mm. There seems to be no tapering required aft of about bulkhead B. I hope this is correct!
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bartley got a reaction from catopower in Photo Etching - do it yourself
Thomas, I have done a bit of this but only for small parts.
A couple of points that I would make:
1. It is going to take a long time to etch a large sheet of the dimensions you give. You may be better off to etch several smaller sheets as things do not always go to plan and you could more easily repeat smaller sheets. than having to repeat a large sheet.
2. One of the problems with thick sheets is "undercutting" where the etchant leeks under the image.
3. MicroMark partly deal with this by having an image on either side of the plate but registration might be a problem. I have not used their system.
4. What I did was attach a block of polystyrene to the back of the plate so that the plate floated and only the image side was in the etchant.
Hope this helps.
John
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bartley got a reaction from allanyed in Photo Etching - do it yourself
Thomas, I have done a bit of this but only for small parts.
A couple of points that I would make:
1. It is going to take a long time to etch a large sheet of the dimensions you give. You may be better off to etch several smaller sheets as things do not always go to plan and you could more easily repeat smaller sheets. than having to repeat a large sheet.
2. One of the problems with thick sheets is "undercutting" where the etchant leeks under the image.
3. MicroMark partly deal with this by having an image on either side of the plate but registration might be a problem. I have not used their system.
4. What I did was attach a block of polystyrene to the back of the plate so that the plate floated and only the image side was in the etchant.
Hope this helps.
John
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bartley got a reaction from bruce d in Photo Etching - do it yourself
Thomas,
I agree entirely with Bruce's comments about registration. As I said above I have not used the MicroMark system which uses photo resist on both sides of the plate but I did recently try to print some flags by printing one image on the "front side" side and a mirror image on the other side. I expperienced a real problem with registration. My printer did not even produce the same sized image when it printed a mirror image! In the end I got close by using four registration marks on an image in photoshop then flipping it in photoshop and making sure that the registration marks lined up in photoshop before printing.
Regards,
John
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bartley got a reaction from mtaylor in Photo Etching - do it yourself
Thomas,
I agree entirely with Bruce's comments about registration. As I said above I have not used the MicroMark system which uses photo resist on both sides of the plate but I did recently try to print some flags by printing one image on the "front side" side and a mirror image on the other side. I expperienced a real problem with registration. My printer did not even produce the same sized image when it printed a mirror image! In the end I got close by using four registration marks on an image in photoshop then flipping it in photoshop and making sure that the registration marks lined up in photoshop before printing.
Regards,
John
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