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Ian_Grant
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Bill, since no one has answered (perhaps because it could turn into a very long dissertation) here is how I started. I looped my shroud pairs over the lower masts first then attached the jeer cleats and topmasts. All was pre-painted and then masts were glued in. Left shrouds dangling loose while attaching lower yards and their slings, jeers, and trusses, figuring they would not be affected by any mast positioning tweaks by standing rigging later and I had better access with loose shrouds. Rigged lifts but left loose. Once these ropes that run down alongside the mast were done, I rigged the shrouds then the stays, working my way upward and from bow to stern. Topgallant masts were attached once topmast shrouds were looped round topmast head, and then sort of repeat the above process. Of course, yards had all their blocks attached before adding to masts. My chief concern was access for belaying at deck pins because I have big hands and did not want to be reaching in with tools I don't have to try to tie things off. In fact, I attached many many lines (for example mizzen stays) to deck even before inserting masts, and rigged "in reverse" because there's better access up high. I attached threads of sufficient length to many deck pins and rigged in reverse too. It's a mess of coils at times but I'd rather do it that way. That's a brief indication of my thought process. -
Beautiful work, especially at that scale! Can't imagine trying to make those oars. We've been to Chania and I remember lunching at one of the restaurants opposite the lighthouse on the breakwater. Lovely city and we had a great time on Crete! <edit> ps Also got up at the crack of dawn in Chania to go on the Samaria Gorge hike. Memorable experience too.
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Kevin, actually you could print the hull in sections, like Yves Vidal's corvette. Just sayin' 😁😉
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If the rigging is like my Victory, the chess tree is for the main tack in which case the slot should line up with the hole in the hull for that tack. Going by your plan and photo the slot is ok but the chess tree top needs to be cut off.
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I have to admit, the 1/4 galleries do look good with copper. Great job painting the balusters! Or are they etch?
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1/4 galleries aren't copper, just the belfry. I guess it is considered an important part of the ship to be taken pride in - just look at the fancy woodwork! No I didn't provide proof of purchase.
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Looks good Bill. FYI the belfry roof is copper clad I believe. Also you can get replacement parts from Heller; go to glow2b.de click on "service" then "spare part form". I had no luck emailing them this form but got an immediate response (and the part) when I FAX'ed it over to the given number.
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Same idea but this Bismarck was decades ago....before the internet, even 😃
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Thought members might be interested: The largest model of Bismarck that I ever saw was in the late 70's. She was built by an ex-crewman and a local mall in Bramalea, which contained my favourite hobby shop (YAY, "Vivian's Hobbies" !!!) as a model-building teenager, had her on display. I don't know the exact length, and it's a long time ago for recollection, but let's say 20-25 ft. To actually cruise on the water this gentleman sat inside it with his head and shoulders inside the forward superstructure, looking out I suppose the bridge windows. This model was on a tour of sorts and he had a signing book for any ex-crew members. I was surprised by how many signatures it contained. Just did a quick google search for it but nothing found as yet.
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Plans were available from the Trireme Trust organization which has been wound down now that Olympias is out of the water etc. When I tried to get plans last winter, I got a reply that they were looking to hire a new librarian and to try again in the spring. I never did, but you could try them again now.
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So I'm puzzled; how is it that the Heller model has the gun deck level with the head gratings or whatever it's called? Presumably the gunports are in the "right" hull locations and the guns are not 1/4" off vertically; if so how can the headrails be in the correct position vertically? I can't understand how this 2 ft scale difference is absorbed...........🤔😒 ps: Kevin are you certain you will finish before they do? 😁 pps: Amazing fusion360 stern you've made. I hadn't looked at your log in a while until today.
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If we could enter a descriptive caption for pictures we add to logs, and others could search for caption keywords, it would be much easier to make use of other peoples' long logs. Moderators? Is it possible?
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I actually found that picture just doing a google search for "HMS Victory beakhead bulkhead images". In all HMS Victory searches, Daniel comes up in some way. You get to recognize some of his shots, for example the row of men on the heads 😃
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Bill, your bulkhead extreme close-up reminds me that the two gunport lids are crazy low relative to the deck. I believe on the old Forum people advocated raising them a bit. It was too late in my case, but here is a shot of Daniel's modified bulkhead. He seems to have raised the door sills and the ports; maybe you can find out all about it in his log.
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Fantastic looking model! It's a shame you aren't doing RC for it; it would be spectacular on the water.
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Medication...HAHAHA!! I just typed in "dangling clusters" as the simplest way to describe the groups of three blocks hanging from the clew line when rigging without lower sails. It's not a nautical term...😁
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Yes, my family was in the UK a few years ago and I didn't bother going to Portsmouth to see Victory unrigged in her 20 year (!!!!) refit. When I last saw her in the late 80's she was also in a refit with blue tarps around half her hull. According to the schedule it should be completed when I am 75; I have my daughter's promise that if needs must she will go over with me to push my wheelchair on board 😃. Mind you, had I known that the Royal Navy Museum was there now, I would have gone. I thought I had it covered going to the NMM and to the Science Museum where to my disappointment Longridge's model is no longer on display.😕 Two dollars is a great buy! The Hackney book tends to be looked down upon by serious modellers for some reason. It's a little volume intended to help people building the smaller Airfix model to enhance its appearance and accuracy. The rigging illustrations are pretty basic in style but informative; in fact I could not understand the yard-arm tackles from just Longridge - Hackney helped. There are however a few conflicts between Longridge and Hackney regarding block sizes on some rigging lines; I went with Longridge.
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No, actually those lashings to the ringbolts aft of the mainmast are the ends of the as-yet unrigged mizzen mast stay & preventer. I tied them off before even inserting the mainmast while I had easy access. You need to add these ringbolts too 🙂. Longridge's Plan 10 "Belaying Plan" has the shortcoming that it does not show deck ringbolts for various rigging components. Have a look at this photo below, which is from Hackney's little hidden gem of a book on how to model the Victory. This is a portion of his belaying plan, around the main mast, which does include deck ringbolts. Rigging items #65 are the mainyard truss pendant falls. Eleven inch double blocks are lashed at deck level to the two deck ringbolts labelled 65 forward of the mast. The free end of the falls belay to cleats labelled 65 on the mast. As I mentioned above, 9 and 10 are ringbolts for the mizzen stay and preventer. Number 64 indicates the mainyard jeer falls coming through the deck.
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She's looking great, Bill!! You continue to impress with your blinding speed 😄. Foremast should be vertical; mainmast raked slightly aft; mizzen raked aft a little more. Yes the beakhead bulkhead fits over the end of the forecastle deck. Next thing for you to read up on in Longridge are the truss pendants for the lower yards. To rig these you'll need to add some eyebolts around the bases of the masts. Welcome to the serious rigging phase; and for this model it is very serious.
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Estimate but be generous; as in woodworking you can always cut a plank (or a thread) shorter but you can't cut it longer.....
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See Plate 46
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No luck so far on finding a scope. The PWM pulse widths from the Rcvr, as reported by the Arduino, vary by about 20 usec so yes maybe that's the effect of noise but that would be a lot of noise on the edges. On the other hand this is an old 75 MHz crystal set, not a modern 2.4 GHz one. I changed the program to keep a running average of 5 readings and the variation reduced to 1 usec. That said, I decided to see how steady servo movement would be with the Arduino driving it with a repeating pattern while ignoring the Rcvr pulses, wondering if I would see a jittery response. Short answer is that the servo movement is rock solid. I noticed no jitter whatsoever. I also realized that in the final program, once per RC 50Hz cycle, the code would calculate the next settings for the four oar servos, then send out their respective PWM pulses one after the other. This means that the start time of a given pulse depends on the duration(s) of all pulses sent before it, e.g. if I send out 1msec, 1msec, 1msec, 1msec ... and in the next cycle 2msec, 2msec, 2msec, 1msec, ....then the fourth channel will see a delay of 23 msec between the start of its 1st and 2nd pulses since there are 3 extra msec to wait for the first three signals the second time around.....we're straying a ways from model ships here but I find it interesting 😁. This worried me so I wrote some code to slowly switch a servo between two positions, but with different inter-pulse delays. I saw no ill effects at all. Apparently servos aren't too concerned with the actual pulse repetition rate, just with the pulse width. Great to know.
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Bill, I refer you to my post #461 of this log. The note I refer to is shown in your photo of pg 267, at the top right of the diagram. It is best to tie the ends of these threads to the bitts (parts #89) before adding the 1/4 deck. You'll need to allow enough length for each, given their runs as described below: The mainyard jeers run up the mast to the upper jeer blocks beneath the mast top, reeve through the jeer blocks until all their sheaves are filled, then are timber hitched to the yard. See PLAN no. 8 (yes it's the foreyard but the jeers are the same). The topsail sheets run up to the large quarter blocks slung under the mainyard, then out along back of the yard to the topsail sheet blocks, then either to the clew of the topsail (if you rig with sails) or the clewline block (if no sails; you can see in Plan 7 the topsail sheets ending at the clewline block for the topsails). The mainsail clew garnets run up to the upper clewline blocks on the mainyard (just outside the octagonal part), down to the lower clewline block at the clew of the mainsail (if rigged) or to the lowerclewline block in mid-air below the mainyard (no sail; see Plan 7 which shows the dangling clusters of clewline/sheet/tack blocks below the for and main yards), then back up and tie off to the mainyard just outside of the upper clewline block.
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