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Everything posted by Ian_Grant
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Nice, but the brass etch ones are even smaller and cleaner, worth the money. Here is a rather poor photo I took of my lids with their inside eyes......
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Yes, that's the so-called "chequerboard" appearance. I used etched brass eyebolts for the lids, two inside and two outside. The inside pair gives a good effect but you have to be looking very closely to see them 😆.
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Nice pond! Is that the model club's nice shaded launch dock or do people swim there too?
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I ask out of interest knowing I want to do an RC model (my first in decades) once my current static build is completed: what do you use for ballast? Can one still buy lead whether as bars or shot?
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Dear Bill, I like your nets and hammocks......I hesitate to say, just tell me if I should stay 🤐from now on,..... there should be a gap in the forecastle netting in front of each carronade, just where the bulwark has the circular dip in front of the carronade pad on the deck 🤨. here is an image; you can see the black net ending on the right, that on the left is hidden.
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Looking magnificent! I'm interested in your plans to transport her to water. What do you expect her to weigh, ballasted? Is a custom trailer next?
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Great model and display! I've never tried a ship-in-bottle but can appreciate how painstaking it must be. Congratulations!
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I have adopted another orphaned kit
Ian_Grant replied to mtdoramike's topic in RC Kits & Scratch building
Mike, Are you sure that cloth is wetted out properly; or is that sanded white filler underneath it? Just askin' 🙂 Ian -
Paul, the challenge with finding thimbles is guessing what a supplier might call them, for the purposes of using their search engine. I used to buy them from The Model Dockyard, called "single hole deadeyes". but Nick retired and closed up. Take a look at "Cording Roller Wood" (???) at Model Dockyard (oops, corrected) Cornwall Model Boats; they have several sizes down to 2.5mm and 3.5mm. However their holes look perhaps smaller than on the ones I used to buy. Good luck! Ian
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Thanks! It's been fun getting it to run, but now I have to get my head back into ship rigging in order to clear my none-too-large model bench for a possible galley build. Cheers!
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Interesting! Thanks for that....
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Modified the software to incorporate Bedfords' suggestions. The return stroke speed is now multiplied by a variable "returnFactor" which I enter at the start of the program. I have renamed the variable which defines the pause at the end of the power stroke to "powerPause", and added a new variable "returnPause" which defines a pause at the end of the return stroke. The two can be given different values if desired. Zero is a valid value. In the video below, "returnFactor" is set to 1.5, and both pause variables are set to 5 which yields a pause of 1/10 second but is not really discernible yet. Some value between this and the previous 1/4 sec can be entered later during sea trials. I decreased the cruising strike rate (variable "CSR") to 24 strokes per minute but maximum strike rate (variable "MSR") is still at 40 which is a bit too fast.
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Thanks Bedford for your interest and especially your suggestions! Yes, I entered 40 or maybe it was 50 strokes per minute for the top speed which is not humanly possible as the trials of Olympias demonstrated. But it just looked so s..l..o..w when I ran it at 30 😁... Yes again, I thought of changing the return speed but didn't get around to it before making the videos. It would be very easy to do in the code. Having said that, in a real model the sweep servos may slow naturally on the power stroke in the water compared to the no-load return. Sea trials would be required to finalize all the variables. Yes again, again, I enter a value for the pause at the start of the code, in terms of "number of 20 msec increments". It can be any integer value; the video uses "12". I went through this exercise to decide if a rowing model would be feasible. My conclusion is that a model could be built, and that software can be easily adapted to tailor the rowing motion to a model's in-water behaviour. So that's great. My one worry is about overheating the sweep servos. I'd definitely select a type with a metal housing, the better to conduct heat away from the motor. In fact, with my mind free-associating while walking the dog, it occurred to me that if I select waterproof servos for the sweep they could sit in an open well in the hull with their housing bottoms actually in the cooling water. 🤪 Not that I'm eager to have a big hole in the bottom of the boat......but if needs must......
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Your CWM looks great! Nice job, love the whale tail too.
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Admiral we have some things in common. I used to RC sail in the 70's/early 80's then not for years as I got a real sailboat. I revived the model to try to interest my son and his cousins when they were 10 or so without result. Then a few years ago I decided to sail it at the cottage for my pleasure. She was reaching directly away from me out on the lake when I realized I was seeing the white deck - how could that be? Answer - she was sinking by the stern!! Fortunately I was able to locate her by snorkeling. The RC set was ok after being packed in rice but the battery was not happy. It turned out that the little balsa block (poor choice of wood by my young self) I epoxied inside the hull to locate the rudder tube had become unglued from the hull after 35 years. Since I had to cut a hole in the deck to get at this I decided to revamp the whole thing from a simple rectangular hatch amidships to something flashier. I also replaced the white deck with some laminate from a counter place and painted the orange hull blue. Here she is...Never got around to painting the black/white camera targets on the crash test dummy 😄.
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Thanks! After viewing the video I checked the "elliptical" calculation again since I didn't see much difference even though I said so in my ad lib narration. The equations are correct; not sure why the change isn't more obvious. The noise is still an issue, although the "juddering" and "thud" you hear when the oar beams are going down would go away in the real ship in which I would use stainless steel upright shafts and linear bearings. Not two pieces of wood with a dado in them 😁. Yes, I thought of having the arduino generate, or maybe just trigger an external circuit, to generate a bass drum beat, but apparently they actually employed flutes to time the rhythm not drums which are a Hollywood thing. Treble sounds from flutes are more easily heard then a bass sound in a ship with all its timbers and oars groaning. And maybe the oarsmen too?
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I found some time to hook it all up. It all seems to be working as expected. Features like the inside oars on a turn stopping, then back-stroking if the rudder goes really hard over, are shown in the following video. After my son shot the above video, I realized I forgot to show the "pause" function I programmed in. This "pause" is a momentary stop in the oar motion at the end of the power stroke. The duration in terms of RC cycles (20 msec) is entered at the start of the program. I have entered 12 for now, representing 12 x 20 = 240 msec, approx 1/4 sec.
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