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Baker

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Everything posted by Baker

  1. With the room completely, cleaned, repainted and reorganized. There is time for Mary again. The cannon deck has been provided with planks in the places where the stairs will come. And has been given a coat of diluted and polished Tamya paint. Little or nothing of all this will be visible later. The railing of the upper deck is ready. Color test for the hull. It is not known for sure whether the original ship was white below the waterline. It could be, but it has never been further investigated. To maximize the effect of the treenails, oil will be applied to the hull. I had some walnut oil left as a test. This is much better than the very diluted Tamya paints. Walnut oil gives a nice result on wood, but you have to repeat the treatment after a few year. So it will be Danish oil or Tung oil.
  2. Good job, if you ever want to start working at 3M. I will provide good references for you 😉
  3. After working at a glue factory (3M) for 38 years. Heated acetone has the best chance. Isopropyl alcohol certainly not. But DONT use this heated aceton on your model. Very flammable and very bad for the model 🧐😉
  4. Maybe a little bit. Bet who will notice this on the finished model 😉.
  5. neatly painted 👍 Take your time and be patiënt. And you will build a great model. Some examples about mold making old scool. Drawings. a airfix spitfire. a mold , the cutty sark from revell The large brush is the extractor plate of the mold. These extractors are sometimes used for the little holes in models. and sometimes cause the annoying round holes in the parts that need to be filled in i went to school to be a mold maker. and when i graduated in the early 80's there was a global economic crisis and i ended up at GM building Opels. And so i started making plastic models 😉
  6. This kit was designed 50 years ago. back then there were no computers, no 3D printers. everything was designed and drawn manually first with pencil and then with ink. each pin in your model means drilling an extra hole in the mold each hole in your model is an extra pin or "ejector" in the mold. in those days. And for this model count at least a year to design and build the mold, with a whole team of experts.
  7. Normaly the schrouds go first. But if you do the schrouds first, they hinder the application of the running rigging. And if you do the running rigging first, they hinder the application of the schrouds. Niet gemakkelijk he...( Eeklo language 😇) Looking at the links in your signature, you have a lot of experience for this 👍
  8. I've been working on galleons for a while. This looks nice on a model. But I don't believe at all that this was the case in reality.
  9. A very small update Mary has been sanded outside the house. And no further progress The room has been reorganized and repainted. There is more order. And the big clean-up has begun. I discovered military models that I didn't remember ever building them...
  10. I started with the Vasa from billings, and after a long time I managed to finish the model. Don't do this. start small, good plan
  11. Good idea I would do that too. And the masts are then sturdier during the installation of the standing rigging
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