Baker

There is little information about colors on ships from this period.And certainly not about merchant ships. I would leave the colors as they are, looks good

https://www.hismodel.com/articles-detail-814 price : 82,61 euro out of stock...☹️

All this could end up on the mast top i think. Not on the deck.

the correct English name for these strips are indeed dowels. So there is nothing wrong with your eyes 😇😎

I sit in the front row 😉

Thanks, These are walnut wooden strips from amati 1 mm diameter. https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Walnut-Dowl-1mm-1WD1_0010.html#SID=470

Treenails... There have been many discussions here on the forum; Treenails, yes or no. For me: yes. It's a lot of work, but for me it adds value. The idea is to add the treenails and then paint the hull with diluted Tamiya paints. This worked last time with toothpicks and ramin wood, but the cherry wood does not provide enough contrast. That is why I purchased walnut strips with a diameter of 1 mm, these provide sufficient contrast with the cherry wood to be able to paint over later. There is not much information for the Mary Rose, only the diameter of the treenails. The frames also do not have an ordered structure to create a treenail diagram. Therefore, back to the method on my previous model. This creates a schedule that has some structure. This will not match the real ship at all. but it looks good (to me). The Mary Rose info, Further in the book it says : We will investigate this further later... My treenails are indeed 0.2mm too thick. But I couldn't find smaller strips in walnut and 1 mm drills are cheap here The frame diagram Plan B The strips : ordered on monday, delivered on teusday. There should be approximately 5500 to 6000 holes between the keel and the first wale. This work requires new tools Drilling Adding the treenails (and my very first hammer, still in service) Work in progress

Nice work

I think your painting gives a very special and beautiful result. At the time the Revenge was built, wood and iron were used.No brass 😉 The most common colors where red,green and white

a nice person like you will definitely get this from Admiral Claus 😉

Very impressive work 👍

Looks great 👍

The name is now complete. And planking is done on both sides. Further planking at the stern is for later. Now this part of the hull will first be further detailed (treenails, etc.) 2 plywood bulkheads remain present, so the model can easily remain upside down for further finishing. The strange piece of wood on the bow is just a temporary reinforcement so that the top part of the stem doesn't break off Thanks for following, comments and likes

The wale 3 problem has been solved. This now has a more flowing line towards the bow. The front cannon port has also been modified. Like ports 2 through 6, is the opening now to just below the wale. The letters of the name are also coming together well. Starting with an easy one And then the difficult one Mary (without Rose )

Thank you . The "demolition work" has now been completed successfully on both sides. And the (3rd attempt) reconstruction is going in the right direction. If everything goes according to plan, an update will be released over the weekend

Great models And

The ships stand is ready, currently with a temporary name on it. the planking above wale 3 went quite smoothly. But, The frame of section 1 is strongly bent inwards at the top. And the stem is straight at the top. This result is an unnatural shape of the hull So, removing these planks and start again for attempt 2. The advantage of PVA glue is that it softens again if you carefully apply isopropyl alcohol to the glue seams. The planks can then be removed fairly easily. Surgery... Attempt 2 : better But... I think I tapered the planks between wale 2 and 3 too much. Wale 3 currently has no smooth line. I'm considering attempt 3 (this means more redoing)

Very nice planking 👍

https://www.billingboats.com/index.php/modelboats-footer/50/120/boats/advanced-beginner/P-bb600-bluenose-ii You can access the instructions in PDF via this link