Baker

Masts and yards.
During the last vacation, the possible dimensions were drawn up. (All this is largely guesswork).

A few months ago, wood was sawn. pine wood with thin grain. Age?? But the tree was sawn at least 25 years ago.
 Nice weather to work outside, So the "lathe" was set up. Own construction, not a pretty thing. But it works.

 
All masts parts are"semi" ready. Together with the main yard.

 

New to the hobby. Spent many years building plastic model cars and some ships, but never wood. My first wooden model ship kit is on its way. I look forward to learning from this community. 
 
Thanks!! 

ok, I came across a small delay.  I build, shaped and added the blocks to the spars few months ago... before starting the standing rigging.  One thing I learned since (thanks Kirill4 for that) is that most of the blocks were set to spars and masts, even other fixtures using served lines.  The reason THEN was to strengthen the rope in point of friction for durability.  So, for realism, it is good to do that.  However, there is a practical reason for modeler:
 
When you fix in place small blocks to spars... the block's rope remains somewhat flexible (i.e. it can stretch a little). The problem is that we (or I) cut the block rope pretty close for esthetic.  Adding CA glue to the end help keep it in place but the serving can still move a little under "stress" and the knot loosen.  Sometime, even fall apart.
 
Using a served rope for fixing blocks as two advantages:  1) serving harden significantly the rope, so it does not stretch much, 2) the serving act as grooves for the sizing, so there is far more resistance to pull and tug. 
 
Lastly, when serving a rope, I add a very thin layer of fabric glue to the rope using a toothpick.  Thin enough so it is only under the serving and does not spill to the outside.  It further helps to limit stretching, and help getting a clean serving that stay together when the rope is cut.
 
Summary:  I decided to cut and redo the blocks on the spars. Just guess how much pain having to redo a block that fall apart AFTER you have the spar set on the ship with ropes all around... not fun.  FAR BETTTER to deal with it ahead of time.
 
A small set back... but a mistake I won't be doing again.

Masts and yards.
During the last vacation, the possible dimensions were drawn up. (All this is largely guesswork).

A few months ago, wood was sawn. pine wood with thin grain. Age?? But the tree was sawn at least 25 years ago.
 Nice weather to work outside, So the "lathe" was set up. Own construction, not a pretty thing. But it works.

 
All masts parts are"semi" ready. Together with the main yard.

 

Small update,
Nice weather to work outside.
So the "lathe" set up. Own construction, not a pretty thing. But it works 😇.

All mast parts and yards are "semi" ready.

 

Masts and yards.
During the last vacation, the possible dimensions were drawn up. (All this is largely guesswork).

A few months ago, wood was sawn. pine wood with thin grain. Age?? But the tree was sawn at least 25 years ago.
 Nice weather to work outside, So the "lathe" was set up. Own construction, not a pretty thing. But it works.

 
All masts parts are"semi" ready. Together with the main yard.

 

The idea is to place four "larger" swivel cannons here.
Why swivels? Because on the Anthony drawings the cannons on the back of the fore castels usually point upwards. And it is therefore suspected that these are swivels
Why only four, Matches the drawing.
"false openings" Make yourself appear stronger than you actually are?

Is this setup final? Don't know..can change .

The rear side is ready for painting
Painted, some painted parts could be better. But that is for later..
With the general shape seems to be ok. The fore castle is on hold for a while.
First I will continue with the gun deck.
(And i forgot to drill the holes for the swivel cannons. I see now....

 
Current status

Masts and yards.
During the last vacation, the possible dimensions were drawn up. (All this is largely guesswork).

A few months ago, wood was sawn. pine wood with thin grain. Age?? But the tree was sawn at least 25 years ago.
 Nice weather to work outside, So the "lathe" was set up. Own construction, not a pretty thing. But it works.

 
All masts parts are"semi" ready. Together with the main yard.

 

Thank you both...  really appreciate.  ;_)

Masts and yards.
During the last vacation, the possible dimensions were drawn up. (All this is largely guesswork).

A few months ago, wood was sawn. pine wood with thin grain. Age?? But the tree was sawn at least 25 years ago.
 Nice weather to work outside, So the "lathe" was set up. Own construction, not a pretty thing. But it works.

 
All masts parts are"semi" ready. Together with the main yard.

 

Smal update.
Started with the wooden parts of the wrought iron cannons
 
Base wooden blocks

Then drill holes

Saw through

The further finishing


Currently there are 10 made

Small update,
Nice weather to work outside.
So the "lathe" set up. Own construction, not a pretty thing. But it works 😇.

All mast parts and yards are "semi" ready.

 

Thanks. The reconstructed design lines may indeed suggest some modifications to the stern. I'll show what's involved a bit later, in the correct order, as it's probably still a bit early for such details now, and the presentation graphics are not yet ready. 
 

Small update,
Nice weather to work outside.
So the "lathe" set up. Own construction, not a pretty thing. But it works 😇.

All mast parts and yards are "semi" ready.

 

Small update,
Nice weather to work outside.
So the "lathe" set up. Own construction, not a pretty thing. But it works 😇.

All mast parts and yards are "semi" ready.

 

The results of the analysis of the design method applied to the construction of the iconic ship Mary Rose presented here, although perhaps no longer entirely unexpected at this latest stage of investigation undertaken, quite decisively complement and correct previous understandings of the history of shipbuilding in this early period. This case emphatically demonstrates that shipbuilding methods that can be called Northern European (as opposed to Mediterranean) are not, as hitherto thought, confined to the early modern Netherlands, from where they were supposedly spread over time to the other regions of the continent. On the contrary, the increasing number of examples being studied show that this is in fact a building tradition that is omnipresent throughout all northern Europe. Suffice it to say that long after the Mary Rose 1511, an exactly identical design method, with all its specific paradigms, was still applied at least 200 years later, for example, for the construction of the very successful Flemish predatory privateer ships, such as the highly regarded Neptunus of about 1690, and described by Chapman as an „extraordinary sailor”, or vessels of Louis XIV's navy of various sizes, such as the light frigate l'Aurore of 1697 (detailed presentation forthcoming).
 
Even if one is not interested in issues such as the historical context of ship design, familiarity with these methods and the ability to apply them in practice may prove useful to today's authors of reconstructions in order to obtain reliable shapes. It is also worth adding that the ancient design methods, correctly applied, virtually guarantee the immediate fair shapes, without the later, punitive synchronisation of cross-sections, waterlines and buttocks, which was in fact not practised in this early period at all.
 
This particular study is based on the published documentation of the ship in two excellent monographs of the Mary Rose — Mary Rose. Your Noblest Shippe, ed. Peter Marsden, 2009 and Tudor Warship Mary Rose, author Douglas McElvogue, 2015. In contrast, one need only caution against the disastrous in content and effect chapter ‘Hull Design of the Mary Rose’ in the first of these monographs, both in a general sense and for me personally. The attempt there to reconstruct the Mary Rose's design method seems to have led to an even more distortion of the lines of the shipwreck than nature has done in 500 years, which consequently led me astray earlier and a lot of time was wasted to finally sort things out. As always, I could also count on the invaluable help of my friend Martes.
 
So much for the introduction, and before the actual detailed explanations, here are a few welcome renders showing a graphical overview of the results obtained:
 
 

 

 

 

 

 
 

Hello Model Ship World Members,
 
Just Back into the modelling again since 1982, aim to go along the 1/350 scratch build WWII Diorama.
Based Peterhead, Scotland, other than a small wee shop in Inverurie and a Games workshop Aberdeen, there is nothing close at all to get materials, base or kits even. Internet is the main supplier.
 
Regards
Stephen 

Forward, Back, Cha Cha Cha...
 
That's the kind of dance it's been the past couple days on this project.
 
I made the standing portion of the vangs. Are these pendants? Anyway, made all four of them with 8mm fiddle blocks stropped in their ends. Then, I realized that I didn't rig them with beckets. Had to redo all four... 😖
 
Today, I fixed the issue, cut away the temporary line I had in place of the vangs, and rigged the vangs. All looks good. They're not permanently in place, since I may have to remove the gaff when I rig the sails.
 

During this last step, the stropping of one of the double blocks (the very last one I was working with, of course) gave way, so I had to remove the eyebolt for that block. It didn't want to come out, but finally did. I destroyed the eyebolt in the process, so had to replace it and re-strop the block to it before finishing up... three-four... cha cha cha...
 
Now, I'm all set to get to work on the sails. They're basically cut and ready to finish up. More on that next time.

I'm making progress.   After finishing the capstan (which isn't permanently installed yet) I did the partial planking of the upper deck, and then moved on to finishing the hatch combings and gratings. 

 
The kit comes with excellent laser-cut parts for making gratings in the Dutch 17th cent. style, and that's what I used.   First was the lower deck - I'd originally thought to leave the hatch down into the hold uncovered, but thought better of that when I started this phase.   I had left a rabbet on its combing, so fitting in the grating was pretty straightforward.   Access was tight, but I could reach it from above or the after end of the model.  You can see it in the picture below, looking straight down.

Then I made the combings for the upper deck hatches as well as a grating for the open above the corresponding lower deck hatch.  I have to say that the details of my combings are all different - I don't quite know exactly what they ought to look like so I ad lib each one based on the levels of decking around them and what the opening's like in terms of beams and such.   But they all share the same 1mm deep by 2mm wide border at the top.  So viewers are probably not going to notice my inconsistencies too easily.

There is a hatch at the very front of the model where the slanted ladder will be installed.  I've seen some build logs where the opening was covered with a grating,  but I'm leaving mine completely open.  That makes sense to me because the ladder gives it the appearance of an access to the lower deck that was frequently used.  I didn't give the opening a rabbet to hold a cover of any sort:  I probably ought to have done,  but I couldn't decide how to make it look reasonable with respect to the ladder and the frame members around it. 
 
Yesterday I did the treenails on the upper deck; next is give it a stain so I can finish up the capstan installation.

One last picture to show the current state, and I'll sign off.

Thanks for looking,
Bob

Ok... I keep changing my mind.  I don't like a full sail display because it covers too much overall.  However, although I like furled sails... the material is too thick to have a good roll.  I may have found a middle ground that I will test later (need to attach the sails to the spar first): Display the model with sails set semi-furled as set when drying the sails.  Saw a couple pictures and I think it worth a try.
 
 

That is some very precise work. Well done.

Good Grief! Just don't breathe hard near those lids, mate!
 
John