john2013

When Chuck's creative mind is unleashed all sort of innovative ideas spew forth. Think of this cross-section as a diversion from your current multi-year build. In just a month or so you'll have a beautiful desk top model and you will return to your current project with renewed enthusiasm.

Thanks Pat and Jan. I estimate another month to the finish Pat . Yep, LOTS of little thingys Jan .
 
There are eight 105mm Guns on Bismarck, slight differences between the ones on the forward superstructure and the aft one. This gun is one of the forward ones. Here are the parts - according to the instructions there are two pieces missing from the laser cut sheet, but nothing too serious. Another example of GPM's sloppiness :

 
The two convoluted parts in the lower-right corner of the pic above are the hoods that go over the rear portion of the barrels, and were the hardest things to make. Naturally I lost one just as I was finishing it and had to cut a new one from some scrap. That was fun ..... NOT ). However it turned out OK - see if you can spot the one I had to cut in the pics below :



 
Some thought had to go into working out which parts to fit first so everything was able to be attached :

 
  Danny
 

Thank you.
Preparations for rigging - ropes for standing rigging, running rigging and anchor cables. Total cca 300 pcs of ropes.

Hi Zappto,
 
Sorry for the late replay,
Thanks and i donkt know the number of crew.
I have to  look it up  with google.
 
Sjors

Thanks Dan, I will check that out.  the cutter is on the backburner at the moment as I am heavy into research for the HMCSS Victoria and prepping for a holiday in May.  Will hopefully get back into this on my return 
 
Thanks for the link.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Marsalv,
I have been following your build log for a long time and I must tell you, I use the high quality and precision of your work as something to aspire to.  Don't know if I will ever get to that level but it is fun trying.  Thanks for sharing your build and inspiring me.
Tom

Thanks everyone for the feedback regarding painting. I still have enough time for a final decision.
I soon interrupt work on Pandora and start finishing Royal Caroline. I make now only minor works from this reason - preparation of deck beams and deck planks.

Whoever makes your open boats does a beautiful job. Your lost wax castings are first class, Alex.

Balloons, eh? I always wondered....  And the ship's boat in frame can be explained by, "The sailors are working on it in their spare time." 
 
Those lower masts look lovely now, Ed. Well done. 

Oh, yes, BE, that's a lovely duo!  Well done, and ONWARD!
 
Cheers,
 
Martin

Thank you very much Albert,
 
for your kind comment
 
Nils

Coppering Trials, continued.....
 
my first Trials have been for the bin, but I would`t like to give up so easily.
Yesterday Dirk posted a very helpfull link out of that "mini sail Switzerland" assotiation relating to coppering. Together with B.E.`s Prior Input I started a new Trial with real adhesive copper tape. It would in scale size 1:64 be necessary to place 88 to 125 nails per plate of size 6 x 19 mm.
 
After some Trials I managed to place 88 nails, flattening the surface afterwards, and having the overlapping plates borderline-nails placed at half distances compared with the the main field. Unfortunetely the staggering of the nail lines in the centerfield is beyond my possibilities in this scale. The reproduceabilty is given due to the embossing Tools I made.
 
Nils
 

self adhesive 0,00125" thick copper tape 5/16 " wide (8mm) leaving appr. 6 x 19mm uncovered, after overlapping

Carl, great to hear from you and hope all is well, its been a while!  Hope you can see some progress, looking forward to you getting back in the shipyard.  All the best.

Fixing the Main Wales.
In the kit these are represented by (3) 1mm x 4mm walnut strips, 12mm o/a. This incidentally accords well with the Swan book drawings.

I had thought of using the black strip but this would need laminating so I have had a change of heart and will use Walnut.
I had been pondering for a while my decision to mark the top line of the wale using a black strake over which the wale would fit. Increasingly I had thought that where the wale meets the prow it rises too far up the stem although that was its natural lie.
In the Swan books they refer to the ‘apparent reversal of the sheer curve’ where the wale appears to flatten as it rounds the bow, mine didn’t seem to flatten at all.
Nothing for it but to remove that section of black strake which may otherwise appear above the repositioned wale.

 

 

I was pleasantly surprised and a little relieved at the ease with which I was able to remove the sections of the black strakes.
In about an hour the job is done and the forward section is fitted with boxwood strip, just a little sanding and filling of the lower edge which in any case will be covered by the wale.

 

Nobody likes going over old ground but there is very little that can’t be rectified when working in wood and I mention this to demonstrate the point.
 
The new wale line is marked by the tamiya tape.

 

The next major question is whether to just slap the three strips on or go for a little more detail with Top and Butt for the lower two strakes. The top strake can in any case be fixed and this will be the next job.
 
B.E.
   

Dear friends thank you very much for like and comments.

Thanks so much John for the overly generous comments. Greatly appreciated. BTW, you must have gotten a cramp from hitting all those "likes"  
 
Bob

Finished after 2 years, lots of errors as it was commenced prior to finding this site , however a good learning piece for HMS Pegasus which will commence in January

Hi Pete, Yes it works best of all on wood. I press it down for about 10 secs to make sure that it's flat, after that you won't get it off other than carving it off, that's why I only do small sections at a time.  As for strength it's as good as it gets, I used cyno most of the time on my aircraft and they took a lot of stress. The wing spars, leading edge and ribs would be assembled dry and pinned down on a flat surface directly over the plans, then the cyno was used and it leached into the joint. After a short while the whole structure was lifted off the plan and would be straight and true. That's just an insight as to the different techniques but really those large aircraft which were heavy  stood up to much engine vibration and flying stresses, and my poor landings! and I never had a failed joint.
 
 
Ken

My four year build log has alas fallen victim to the latest system upgrade, and like the ship she represents is now presumed lost, as Pegasus was in 1777.
To re-instate all the information contained within the orginal log which ran for over 100 pages is a bit of an ask but where I can pick up the information quickly I will include it in this replacement log with priority being given to specific aspects where I have modified the basic kit, to produce the model which is now allbut finished.
My log which was first posted in 2013 lacked much of the earlier stages of the build which had been going since 2010, and this revision will include aspects of the earlier build stages which may assist those embarking on a new Swan build adventure.
I would like to thank all those members who have shown interest in my build over the past four years, and for the many appreciative comments and 'likes' I received. I still can't believe that over 257,000 visits were made to the log, but it is nice to think that it was of use to the membership.
Also thank you to those who have messaged me with kind words about the loss of the original log, and with offers of help.
Hopefully this revised version, risen from the ashes, will continue to provide useful information to the membership, particularly those involved with Swan Class Sloops.
 
B.E.
5th March 2017

I also settle on a colour scheme for the launch and inside planking, cannon ports.  Happy with that.  This pretty well catches up the build to where I'm at now, so updated will come much slower, but I will do my best to keep the info and pics coming.  I wish I could add a video of the light effect, it just so hard for the phone still pic to capture it well. 

Yes indeed it is....that same scumbag company also pirated my lantern kits and other projects stolen from other MFGs....I removed the link.  The Russians are just as bad as the Chinese.   You would think with all of their master builders that they wouldnt have to steal other designs.   But yes that company is bad news.  They even use my assembly images taken from this site to help sell the lanterns.  I made the unfortunate mistake of including the parts diagram in the downloadable instructions.  Once again....You cant win!!!   I have known about this company for some time now.
 
When I first came across their site I had to laugh until I almost peed myself.   Written in russian it says "Dont buy from a foreign supplier.....we manufacture all of OUR products in our own facility"
 
 
If its out there they will find a way to steal it.  They have also stolen and pirated Jeff Staudt's Batteau because the Model ship builder site hasnt used any protections.....not that this stops them.  This company has already been added to the banned Kit makers list posted here.  I guess I should be flattered right?  Imitation the the greatest form of flattery or however that saying goes....
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/181-banned-kit-manufacturers-on-msw-pirated-kits-prohibited/
 

 

 

 
 
 
Here is a link to the real thing.......buy the original and NOT the pirated Commie fakes
 
 
 
Chuck

Thanks so much Mike. Never forget: we don't get older, we get better. 
 
Bob