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MartinB

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Everything posted by MartinB

  1. Oh Mike, Your first sentence would get me into a whole lot of trouble, with consequences! The rest of your post, oh dear, the consequences do not bear thinking about. Keep bailing Martin
  2. I also have reached build burnout. I have spent the past 18 months scratch building the Cutty Sark as she was in her Australian wool clipper days. It has been 50% research and 50% build. It recently took me a couple of weeks just to draw up rudimentary plans for her cut down rig (masts and spars). Hull and deck furniture complete. Masts almost complete. And that's it, I've had enough. Lovingly wrapped her up to keep the dust off. And in a year or two, I will go back and finish her. According to an internet search. Hobby: An activity done regularly in one's leisure time for pleasure. I shall return when the mood strikes... Cheers Martin
  3. There's a lot to be said for the stress relief and enjoyment of just building a kit as instructed. Minimal thought, just working with one's hands to wind down after a hard day. Enjoy. Regards, Martin
  4. Hello Mac, I have decided to rig my Cutty Sark without sails. At the 1/75 scale I am working in, it is just easier for me. I interpret your question as how to make the actual sails. I do not have any advice on this, and more to the point, have never modeled a sail. At the scale you are working in, it will absolutely be a challenge, but not insurmountable. Also be cognisant of Jan's comments above regarding staying in scale. My only suggestion is to check the masting/rigging/sails forum here on MSW. There are a few articles there that will assist you. How did you wish to model the sails? (Furled or flying in the breeze). Regards Martin
  5. Of my model, no. Still working on the masts. When I am ready to rig, I will start a build log. I have internet sourced photograph's of her in that rig, and the two photo's in Lubbock's book. I know the wording of the original work order to cut her down. This combined with the above mentioned photographs have allowed me to draw up some rudimentary sketches of masts and spars. Many hours of work! Martin
  6. Thank you for your replies, I appreciate it. Jan, I am modelling Cutty Sark in 1/75 scale in her wool clipper cut down rig. So, no stuns'ls or sky sail. I am now thinking of attempting the first yard with a furled sail including the running rigging. If I can model that to scale, then i will continue throughout. If it looks too out of scale or overly complex or fussy, then I will model without any sails and their associated rigging. I am a stickler on everything being "to scale". Martin
  7. Usually running rigging consists of halyards, lifts, braces, parrels etc.. Job done. Model complete. However, I am coming up to riggging my Cutty Sark. So, my basic question. What was the standard practice regarding bunt lines, clew lines, sheets etc,,, did they come down with the sails, or did they stay up there?
  8. Size does not matter. (sorry, I had to get that one in), see comments below. If it is your first build, and the Admiral is looking over your shoulder for a completed work. Then I would suggest anything by Artesania Latina, or if you are real keen, Amati. Billings kits are basically for experts. You don,t get much bang for your buck. People like me that build Billings Cutty Sark's do so because the hulls are spot on perfect. We scratch build the rest. Build the vessel that appeals to you and will keep your attention. The one ship you are emotionally attached to. That way you are a better candidate to present a completed model. A. L. do a pretty good job of presenting a kit that will do that. I did it. Fair winds. Martin
  9. Hi Mindy. Yes I asked the same question when doing my build. Eventually I rigged the anchor cable as a long loop around the outside of the outer bumpkin stay. The anchor cable remains inside the inner/bow stay. It can then drop and free fall without hitting anything. It seems to work and looks ok. Cheers Martin
  10. A thought. I notice that a couple of manufacturer's have posted the "basic" instructions on their websites. I for one have accessed Revel's Cutty Sark rigging diagrams. Now, if each new wooden ship kit box sold by the major manufacturer's included an additional sheet of paper (a flier if you will) that stated "for complete instructions visit our website etc.. etc... We also recommend you visit these model ship building sites that will enhance your modelling experience and illustrate modelling techniques required to complete this model (or similar etc... you get the picture). A whole new world of wonderment is opened. (This of course assumes that a potential modeler will not readily find us/MSW). The manufacturers draw people to our hobby by their ready availability of kits. It is up to the rest of us to keep them here, or enhance their experience. Why not lobby the manufacturer's to do this (or is this already done?). Working together always achieves better results. What do you think? Best regards Martin
  11. Hello first modeler, I built my first basic wooden ship kit in 1983/84. It was a Billings Golden Hind. It came with a large book of instructions (one language only), quality drawings and excellent timber. At the time I guess the price was around A$200 to A$300 dollars (say around $1000 today). Included in the instruction booklet were comprehensive "how to's" on plank bending, planking and rigging. I completed a creditable model by following the instructions. Instructions contained in today's kits within the above price range are essentially non existent. Kits are reasonably priced (some would say cheap), so I guess manufacturers would tend to skip the niceties and assume in some instances that the builders are already a part of this niche hobby. The manufacturers are after all scrambling for market share and profits. Flashy boxes woo the unsuspecting and excitable newcomer with promises of glorious galleons and clippers from history. Exciting stuff. And why not! Build what you have an emotional attachment to, I believe this is the most important requirement for completing a model. Instructions come from researching sites like this. The internet age has delivered all the instructions you need to the tips of your fingers. Never have we had it so good. All that is required is your attention. Dive in, the waters warm. Regards, Martin
  12. p.s. As a helpful addition to my above comment. Google "HMS Endeavour replica" or "Cutty Sark Greenwich" under images.There are a lot of photos. Look at the size of the ratlines compared to the shrouds. You can hardly see them. Cheers Martin
  13. As a regular (non OCD) modeler, I would suggest it is what the individual is comfortable with. However, I would think it is all to do with scale. At 1:70 something, the ratline thickness would be 0.20 mm to 0.30 mm thick (if memory serves). At that thickness you would be pressed to see the knot anyway (well, with my eyesight at least). Take a piece of cotton thread out of your partners sewing basket. Tie a clove hitch and pull it tight. Do ya see it? Happy hitchin! Martin
  14. You are leading the way Simon. First I outed myself, now i am going to have to start a build log also! I have used judicious sanding in the past, but it looks like not too much of it in your current situation. Are planks adhered to this? which thickness would allow you to sand a fix. See what the other members have to say. Cheers Martin
  15. All he asked was how to thread the thingies.
  16. In my railroading days I used floquil stains on basswood, (for water tanks etc), it worked really well. However, you may require a Hazmat suit to apply it! Is furniture stain suitable for scale models, or, a model stain. Do not know the answer, just my 2 cents worth. Cheers. Martin
  17. Hello Primey, Your kit is from the 1980's. I purchased the exact same kit in 1988. To my knowledge, the manufacturer no longer exists. Looking good so far.
  18. change password

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