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petervisser

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  • Location
    Victoria, B.C.
  • Interests
    Ship models, travel, history, swimming, reading, flight simming

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  1. So the rigging journey begins! It's been a treat to watch your model progress. I'm sure your masting and rigging will also be of a high standard. All the best going forward. Peter
  2. For a deep clean of your paint brushes, you might want to try TSP which you can purchase at Canadian Tire, seeing as you're in Canada. Give give the paint brushes a soak overnight using the recommendations on the container and rinse with water. I hope this is a help. Cheers, Peter
  3. Great model so far HOF. As Ian mentioned in an earlier post, Underhill’s masting and rigging book may be a really good investment at this point in your project. I have been using it with my own model and it has really helped. I see it listed on Abe Books for less than $20US. With your model at the very early stages of rigging, it will make your life much easier and you can rig it with greater accuracy and confidence. All the best going forward! Peter
  4. Hi Joe. I also have the Billing Norske Love which is in the wings waiting to be built myself. A fantastic model that should keep your dad out of trouble for quite some time. I have also built a number of Billing kits so I am familiar with their numbering of parts. "F" refers to a fitting. All the bits and pieces that are not wood parts. 164, is the fitting number and in this case refers to the gun carriages. The number "6" is meant to denote the colour the carriages are meant to be painted. In this case a dark red. I'm not sure where you see the "L" when you say it is on the board. "L" normally refers to the standing rigging or the rigging controlling the yards. I hope this is a help. Cheers, Peter
  5. Congratulations on your very fine model. A real achievment. Mr. Occre would be proud! Peter
  6. Hi Harvey. I just ran across your excellent build log of the Gjoa. Thought you might be interested in the actual village where Roald spent some time in Canada's Arctic. I was last there in 2003 aboard the Canadian icebreaker, Sir Wilfrid Laurier and went ashore with my watch partner Ed. We had a wonderful time walking the tundra and exploring the derelict boats nearby the village. Here's some pic's of what it's like in the high Arctic.
  7. That is really coming along Julian. Really nice colouring on the stern. What paint did you use on the ornamentation? I could use that on one of my later builds. Cheers, Peter
  8. Wow, good to see that you are still working on your Cutty Sark. She is looking very familiar to me and we are both at the same stage roughly speaking. I was struck by how much chain is used in the rigging but it sure adds some lovely detail to the masts and yards. You have done amazing work with all the fittings you have manufactured. All the best on the last leg of your project! Peter
  9. The all natural wood finish looks amazing on the hull and decks. A very clean build harlequin. Well done! Peter
  10. The Spencer Gaff is something that caught my attention late in the masting and rigging of the model. It is refernced in Longridge's "The Cutty Sark" so I have included it on my model. Campbell's plans also show it but without any associated rigging. Therefore it is now installed on my model with the vangs and chain sling, but without the lift. I had to re-rig the spanker gaff once the spencer gaff was installed as the former did not have the correct angle to the mast. The spanker gaff has a more accute angle. Here is a photo of the result.
  11. Hi Serpe. I recently posted this on my build log of the Cutty Sark and later saw your question regarding ratline templates. So I thought you might be interested in another method of tying these lines to your shrouds. Ratlines are pretty straightforward but I decided to make a post on a nifty way to get the spacing uniform. I cut a small piece of toothpaste box packaging to the correct width, folded it in half and then clipped it to the outermost shrouds that take the ratlines. The tiny clothespins were purchased at Michaels, a craft store chain. With the "jig" in place, the ratlines are added to the shrouds at the top edge of the paper. I'm not sure if this has been tried before, so apologies to the originator. Once the ratlines have been added to the lower mast shrouds, the sheets, tacks and clew lines will be added to the courses on all three masts. Here is a picture of the "ratline tool" (patent pending) in place along with a pic of the tools in use for this rivetting aspect of model ship building. The foam panel behind the shrouds isn't necessary and is there simply to make the ratlines show up better in the photo. All the best with you model!
  12. Yet another suggestion to add to your library is "Seamanship in the Age of Sail" by John Harland and illustrated by Mark Myers. Not only devoted to masts, rigging and sails but also shiphandling and a host of other topics. This book has hundreds of beautifully rendered drawings and lovely artwork. A masterpiece of a book! Cheers, Peter
  13. Twenty one ratlines later and this is the result. I'm a bit rusty at tying these but the process will become faster and more uniform with practice. I use bee's wax and a little dulcotte laquer to finish the ratlines which also keeps the knots knotted. Only 17 sets to go!
  14. All the best with your project. Feel free to ask any question you have and I will try to answer them. Cheers, Peter
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