Brucealanevans

Update.
Here's the tryworks. I haven't put the side braces and wood sheathing on yet.
This took time but was not really hard. Took some time mixing paint to get a good brick color that wasn't too red - the admiral didn't like the color on my test wall of bricks.
Almost 500 bricks!
I'm relatively pleased, although the eye goes immediately to the "errors". One chimney is a bit wider, and the walls sloped in enough that I had to mount the cauldrons below the top rather than having the room to drop them through the top.
However, I like the overall effort as my modeling skills improve (3rd wooden ship build).
After the supports/sheathing, probably will make the tank and scrap box before moving on to the next most fiddly bit - the winch. I'll have to dry fit the bowsprit and put the bowsprit bitt in place first, I think, and likely the framing for the anchor deck.

So I've been working on the shrouds for the lower level masts. Serving those lines was a real patience-practice, and after serving they were stiff and a bit of a pain to work with.
For the "full size" deadeyes for the fore and main mast shrouds, I made a couple simple jigs from a piece of scrap wood and four fine metal wire pieces to hold the two deadeyes the correct distance apart while I determined the length of the end without a deadeye attached. This worked pretty well. For the mizzen and its smaller deadeyes, I just eyeballed it with acceptable results.
I think next, as per John's advice on his website, I'll make and mount the various bits of cutting in tackle, before I continue with the standing rigging.
As always, my eyes always go immediately to what I could have done better!
Here's what it looks like now:

So I've been working on the shrouds for the lower level masts. Serving those lines was a real patience-practice, and after serving they were stiff and a bit of a pain to work with.
For the "full size" deadeyes for the fore and main mast shrouds, I made a couple simple jigs from a piece of scrap wood and four fine metal wire pieces to hold the two deadeyes the correct distance apart while I determined the length of the end without a deadeye attached. This worked pretty well. For the mizzen and its smaller deadeyes, I just eyeballed it with acceptable results.
I think next, as per John's advice on his website, I'll make and mount the various bits of cutting in tackle, before I continue with the standing rigging.
As always, my eyes always go immediately to what I could have done better!
Here's what it looks like now:

I've reached a milestone, with the masts completed. I haven't glued the sections together but all the construction is done and the platforms/crosstrees attached.
I did remember to put the parrels on the fore and main topmast before fastening the crosstrees - thanks for the heads up on that John - I would have missed it too!
Scratched my head for quite a while about how to do the lookout rings and have them robust enough in the attachment to the very small diameter mast section to survive the coming months of construction.
I made rings of copper wire by wrapping around a mandrel and cutting at the overlap. I glued the opposing ends into a very small piece of wood - thin side to side and several mm high - drilled thru to accept the ends, and used accelerator on the CA glue.
Then I milled a slot into the mast side to side - John, the proxxon x-y table and drill press can do almost anything - and by fussing with sandpaper and file convinced the piece of wood to enter firmly into the slot, one on each side, with liberal dab of Tightbond inside. A bit of card on either side to give the appearance of a band. I used an enamel for metal on the copper rings. As long as what you are painting is either black or white and you don't mind waiting 24 hours for it to be really dry, it works much better than the water-soluble paints. Quite durable once its dry and no rubbing off.
I'm pleased with the appearance, and the attachment is very firm and should stand up to having lines attached.
 
Now it's time to contemplate the shrouds.

So I've been working on the shrouds for the lower level masts. Serving those lines was a real patience-practice, and after serving they were stiff and a bit of a pain to work with.
For the "full size" deadeyes for the fore and main mast shrouds, I made a couple simple jigs from a piece of scrap wood and four fine metal wire pieces to hold the two deadeyes the correct distance apart while I determined the length of the end without a deadeye attached. This worked pretty well. For the mizzen and its smaller deadeyes, I just eyeballed it with acceptable results.
I think next, as per John's advice on his website, I'll make and mount the various bits of cutting in tackle, before I continue with the standing rigging.
As always, my eyes always go immediately to what I could have done better!
Here's what it looks like now:

I've reached a milestone, with the masts completed. I haven't glued the sections together but all the construction is done and the platforms/crosstrees attached.
I did remember to put the parrels on the fore and main topmast before fastening the crosstrees - thanks for the heads up on that John - I would have missed it too!
Scratched my head for quite a while about how to do the lookout rings and have them robust enough in the attachment to the very small diameter mast section to survive the coming months of construction.
I made rings of copper wire by wrapping around a mandrel and cutting at the overlap. I glued the opposing ends into a very small piece of wood - thin side to side and several mm high - drilled thru to accept the ends, and used accelerator on the CA glue.
Then I milled a slot into the mast side to side - John, the proxxon x-y table and drill press can do almost anything - and by fussing with sandpaper and file convinced the piece of wood to enter firmly into the slot, one on each side, with liberal dab of Tightbond inside. A bit of card on either side to give the appearance of a band. I used an enamel for metal on the copper rings. As long as what you are painting is either black or white and you don't mind waiting 24 hours for it to be really dry, it works much better than the water-soluble paints. Quite durable once its dry and no rubbing off.
I'm pleased with the appearance, and the attachment is very firm and should stand up to having lines attached.
 
Now it's time to contemplate the shrouds.

So I've finally finished the planking and a rough sanding. Some work on filler for cracks, etc. yet to go.

I'm semi-retired (50% for a few months) and got diverted to other (non-model) projects for a while, while I pondered what to do about the masts.
I'm putting furled sails on the Morgan, but the mizzen posed a problem because the jackstay runs along the mast, and I didn't think I'd be able to mount the sail once the mast was in place, to say nothing of the shrouds.
 
At any rate, I've added the sail which necessitated making the gaff boom for the hoops, and (temporarily) hoisting it up. The sail is meant to be retracted but not tightly furled. I'll still work on the sail a bit to get more natural folds.
So here's the current state.
Not sure if I'm going to start on the lower shrouds now or build the masts up first.

At a bit of a standstill waiting for replacement mast dowels (don't ask how I could mistake rounded for squared from the plans). I realized if I wanted to have furled sails on the model, I'd need to figure out the jibs prior to rigging the forestays.
So I started researching on this site and experimenting.
Made (cut down) jibs from two thicknesses of silkspan painted with white glue/a bit of ochre paint/water after drawing the seams on one of the inside surfaces of the sandwich. The seams don't show well in the pictures, but they're appropriately understated but visible if you look. If I decide to have some of the sails only partially furled they should look good
 

 
Then after drying, turned a small seam with thread inside drawn out a the corners for attachment. Added rings  (there are 10 of them) made from black coated copper wire and mounted the whole on a block with a copper rod thru the rings to keep things aligned while I re-wetted and folded the sail.
I'm reasonably pleased with this - the package should be smaller once it's bound down. Probably about half the diameter it is at present.  I'll finish the other and mount them when I do the forestays. I think just the two.
Suspect the spanker/gaff at the mizzen might be more of a challenge.
 

 
I've made a decision to go with sails (furled) so I guess I also will be acquiring yet another display case. We're going to run out of room to put ships if I'm not careful, but given the speed with which I'm working not likely to be a problem.

I'm semi-retired (50% for a few months) and got diverted to other (non-model) projects for a while, while I pondered what to do about the masts.
I'm putting furled sails on the Morgan, but the mizzen posed a problem because the jackstay runs along the mast, and I didn't think I'd be able to mount the sail once the mast was in place, to say nothing of the shrouds.
 
At any rate, I've added the sail which necessitated making the gaff boom for the hoops, and (temporarily) hoisting it up. The sail is meant to be retracted but not tightly furled. I'll still work on the sail a bit to get more natural folds.
So here's the current state.
Not sure if I'm going to start on the lower shrouds now or build the masts up first.

I'm semi-retired (50% for a few months) and got diverted to other (non-model) projects for a while, while I pondered what to do about the masts.
I'm putting furled sails on the Morgan, but the mizzen posed a problem because the jackstay runs along the mast, and I didn't think I'd be able to mount the sail once the mast was in place, to say nothing of the shrouds.
 
At any rate, I've added the sail which necessitated making the gaff boom for the hoops, and (temporarily) hoisting it up. The sail is meant to be retracted but not tightly furled. I'll still work on the sail a bit to get more natural folds.
So here's the current state.
Not sure if I'm going to start on the lower shrouds now or build the masts up first.

After more than 1 1/2 years at this, I'm approaching being done with the hull.
Put on the shelter roof last night.
Next is the rail/pump area around the mainmast, and then a few random things like the grinding wheel, some barrels, and a careful review of the plan sheet to make certain all of the deck eyebolts, cleats, etc. are in place.
Likely will need to take a break before beginning rigging/masts as real life intrudes again.
Oh well, by this time next year I'll be retired or, at the worst, part time; more time to play either way!

I'm semi-retired (50% for a few months) and got diverted to other (non-model) projects for a while, while I pondered what to do about the masts.
I'm putting furled sails on the Morgan, but the mizzen posed a problem because the jackstay runs along the mast, and I didn't think I'd be able to mount the sail once the mast was in place, to say nothing of the shrouds.
 
At any rate, I've added the sail which necessitated making the gaff boom for the hoops, and (temporarily) hoisting it up. The sail is meant to be retracted but not tightly furled. I'll still work on the sail a bit to get more natural folds.
So here's the current state.
Not sure if I'm going to start on the lower shrouds now or build the masts up first.

I'm semi-retired (50% for a few months) and got diverted to other (non-model) projects for a while, while I pondered what to do about the masts.
I'm putting furled sails on the Morgan, but the mizzen posed a problem because the jackstay runs along the mast, and I didn't think I'd be able to mount the sail once the mast was in place, to say nothing of the shrouds.
 
At any rate, I've added the sail which necessitated making the gaff boom for the hoops, and (temporarily) hoisting it up. The sail is meant to be retracted but not tightly furled. I'll still work on the sail a bit to get more natural folds.
So here's the current state.
Not sure if I'm going to start on the lower shrouds now or build the masts up first.

I'm semi-retired (50% for a few months) and got diverted to other (non-model) projects for a while, while I pondered what to do about the masts.
I'm putting furled sails on the Morgan, but the mizzen posed a problem because the jackstay runs along the mast, and I didn't think I'd be able to mount the sail once the mast was in place, to say nothing of the shrouds.
 
At any rate, I've added the sail which necessitated making the gaff boom for the hoops, and (temporarily) hoisting it up. The sail is meant to be retracted but not tightly furled. I'll still work on the sail a bit to get more natural folds.
So here's the current state.
Not sure if I'm going to start on the lower shrouds now or build the masts up first.

John, congratulations on a great finish to a spectacular model.
Your experience and careful documenting thereof has been of great help to me as I plod along working intermittently on the Morgan.
Got diverted finishing up a software project, but will be getting back to work shortly and referencing your build log frequently.
Looking forward to your next (? RV friendly) build.

John, congratulations on a great finish to a spectacular model.
Your experience and careful documenting thereof has been of great help to me as I plod along working intermittently on the Morgan.
Got diverted finishing up a software project, but will be getting back to work shortly and referencing your build log frequently.
Looking forward to your next (? RV friendly) build.

John, congratulations on a great finish to a spectacular model.
Your experience and careful documenting thereof has been of great help to me as I plod along working intermittently on the Morgan.
Got diverted finishing up a software project, but will be getting back to work shortly and referencing your build log frequently.
Looking forward to your next (? RV friendly) build.

Back at work intermittenly in the shipyard for a few weeks. Put the chainplates/deadeyes in place and constructed and rigged up the bowsprit and boom to the extent that can be done prior to getting the masts in place for the forestays.
It's been a bit of a setback for me. After the Bedford Whaleboat and Picket Boat #1 I've gotten acceptably good at scale woodwork, but given that those models - my first wooden builds - had only minimal rigging, I'm back as a beginner again. So with each bit I do, I'm figuring out the best approach. That leads to rigging four lines, and then looking at the first and seeing only how I could have done it better.
Anyway, here's the current state of the build. Ready to begin working on the masts.

Some crew now on board . . .
They're not cemented in case they get in the way later.

Well, worked hard on real world work most of the weekend.
Found myself with a couple of hours of free time, so I sneaked into the shipyard and added some trywork tool details.
I put a oil ladle and a scraps strainer on their respective sides of the tryworks, and added a "station" for the mincing knife work creating the "bible leaves" from strips of blubber and skin which would be pitched into the pot, which was done on a plank over a tub, or so my references told me.
I guess I need some small, limited projects to work on from time to time without getting sucked into a big thing like deadeyes, chainplate, shrouds, and so on.
I'll add a few barrels and buckets. I also ordered some s-scale people, to play with trying to whip them into shape to be crew with some modification and creative micro-painting. We'll see.

Finished the Hull today - a real landmark.
Further work will have to wait.
Closing the shipyard due to numerous responsibilities which have been piling up. Need to wrap up several projects before retiring, and have to prepare for an take a subspecialty exam in Clinical Informatics in October.
Probably will open back up after I take the exam in October, beginning with deadeyes, chainplate, etc.
Here are summary pictures of where things are now.

Here's the finished tryworks sitting but not cemented to the deck.
The chicken coop is a bit clunky, but overall I'm fairly pleased.

Update.
Here's the tryworks. I haven't put the side braces and wood sheathing on yet.
This took time but was not really hard. Took some time mixing paint to get a good brick color that wasn't too red - the admiral didn't like the color on my test wall of bricks.
Almost 500 bricks!
I'm relatively pleased, although the eye goes immediately to the "errors". One chimney is a bit wider, and the walls sloped in enough that I had to mount the cauldrons below the top rather than having the room to drop them through the top.
However, I like the overall effort as my modeling skills improve (3rd wooden ship build).
After the supports/sheathing, probably will make the tank and scrap box before moving on to the next most fiddly bit - the winch. I'll have to dry fit the bowsprit and put the bowsprit bitt in place first, I think, and likely the framing for the anchor deck.

So I've started on a Charles W Morgan build, although somewhat intimidated by the speed and or quality of the currently documented construction projects for this ship.
This model is a stretch for me, given the amount of scratch building involved and the somewhat cryptic instructions of this older MS kit.
I got interested after building the New Bedford Whaleboat, and added this kit to my "to do" stack. Having finished Picket Boat #1 to my satisfaction, decided to defer the Phildelphia Gunboat and take on a more complicated project.
I'm not retired (yet) and have many professional demands on my time, so I end up working in fits and starts and when I need the "therapy".
I decided to go ahead and build the hull superstructure before planking to allow better access for clamps for the waterway, planksheer, rail and topgallant structure. That's where I am now (pictures below). The rail structure is a bit wavy viewed end on on one side, but overall I'm relatively pleased within the envelope of my skillset. I had a few disasters in terms of inadvertant breakage of thin pieces (mainly the main rail) after installation by a misplaced hand while working on another part, but managed to overcome that adequately. I still have to do some sanding on the main rail as the strip I used was a bit wider than the rail is supposed to be - that is evident in the pictures where the rail meets the laser-cut curved rail piece forwards.
Next I'll plank between the planksheer and the mail rail to reinforce that area, and then likely add the wale and plank between the planksheer and the top of the wale.
Then I'll go on to bands A-D
The build logs and galleries on this and other sites have been a great aid.
 
Bruce