RGL
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Everything posted by RGL
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Don’t rivet count on the paint type. Mr Color and a Tamiya are cheap, plentiful and work well in my airbrush I’ve decided that there is no perfect colour. The blokes from WEM concede they go off B&W photos and it still comes down to individual ships to mix most of their own paints, so near enough is probably safe enough given most sailors consider themselves professional painters anyways given how much they reckon the do. Chip and paint; repeat.- 1,090 replies
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- showcase models
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No mate, just the pain of “will the mask lift paint”, it has light grey, light blue, dark blue and black, so it’s a bit of a layer cake that requires preshading on each level or at least highlighting. I used a pencil to draw up the lines and some Tamiya flexible masking tape. i got the set of Lifecolour RN paints, add thinner and they become putty. Don’t add thinner! Use water. Light blue added, I’ll do black and dark blue tomorrow
- 405 replies
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- tamiya
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So, my first attempt at camouflage, this is stressful
- 405 replies
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Grunge time/ I used a large brush and dabbed on Mr Surfacer underneath to give it some barnacle coarseness. Then a light grey overspary to dull the edges, then a diluted black, then diluted green then another coat of black. I'm quite happy with it. Next is the upper hull and boot straps. Once I've done that I can add the depth markers and do a salt/slime ring at the watermark and upper hull weathering.
- 405 replies
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Mark and Canute, yes, it’s like the hairspray technique
- 405 replies
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You apply it on top of your base colour, when dry, you paint over it, then when the top coat is dry, you put water on it then rub and the top coat chips off. The problem with a hull as large as a battleship is there is a very large surface area.
- 405 replies
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Strait to first grade! Looks like a really nice build.
- 34 replies
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- kearsarge
- first build
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But it goes the other way in the sourthern hemisphere
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I got the airbrush out. After the rattle can primer, a good coat or Black/Brown and then a couple of satin coats. You can see the hull plates where they have been etched in. I then gave the lower hull 2 coats of chipping fluid, then a few shades of red to bring out the panels. I then removed most of that work with the chipping fluid using an old toothbrush. So tomorrow I can start to grunge her. As it was in 1943 before her last war refit, she was in the Mediterranean so I reckon she'd be pretty grubby below the water line. The band that been rubbed back to bare metal will be covered in grunge and the boot strap and upper hull colours will make this pretty un noticable anyways.
- 405 replies
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Yep, I bend 1 side in my pe bender, flip it 180, and then use a scalpel point to ‘pop’ the steps, then bend it up, squaring it up with pliers gently afterwards.
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Progressing nicely OC
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As usual you’re the master! I agree with the paint as it depends on the time of day/ sunlight/shade as to how a grey looks grey.
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The cat tolerates me. I found they fit, the Infini set was a magnitude harder still
- 405 replies
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Finished now anyways, 35 (1 spare) done up. That’s the last of the guns thank goodness. Time to revisit the hull I think.
- 405 replies
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I generally spend a lot of time researching my next build during my current build. I think I’ve got most photos of the Seydlitz now.
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They’re not that bad really. Considering you can hardly see them they look nice
- 405 replies
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They are not as hard as the IJN stuff. It’s just the quantity. I’d hate to rig the Cannons on HMS Victory correctly.
- 405 replies
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You know you are supposed to do comparison shots to show how small your current build is? The big boys are that much easier to build.
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The 1943 configuration requires 34 x 20mm single AA guns. Pontos gives you enough plus spares for the ‘41 configuration (21 guns), so the extra Infini set of guns is required to make up the balance. You can see the kit product and why one destroys one’e Eyes to replace it. Ill hopefully have them done tommorow
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