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RGL

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Everything posted by RGL

  1. They also used a lot of linoleum riveted or bolted down with brass strips
  2. I'm at the stage where I really want to start putting the hull together, but I have to paint the interior boat and aircraft hangers first. I have given the 'inside bits' their first primer an base coats. I will weather the interior bits by hand and wait till later until I do the IJN grey bits. That way I can put the sides one and the deck. You can see in the foreground some perforated steel beams which are required on the rear aircraft deck, which is finally complete (2 weeks from the Ukraine to Oz is pretty good. I intend to give the base coat 12 hours to dry nice and hard before I do any work on it then I can put the hull together.
  3. Moving along, I have done everything t the deck I can do before painting. There are marked places for the stanchions but I cannot drill them until I do up the hull. The Forecastle is a very nice mold. As you can see from the AOTS there is not really much to be done here. The Tamiya capstan and cable holder are fairly bland; and I have replaced them with the Chrysanthemum set which is just lovely. The front hawser hole is provided by Tamiya but the other brass is all Pontos. Now it's in its' box until painting time. What next?
  4. Most, if not all their stuff is in 1/700, for the sake of my eyesight in latter years, I will avoid. I do like this Essex though!
  5. Little update, the crane runners for the ships launches. The main metal pieces are 1 piece of PE, but the struts are each about 2mm x 1mm x 0.3mm. In order to place them as they are tiny triangles, it's a matter of placing them facing the right way in some blu-tack and running some CA in the grooves then using the tweezers to place them. Once placed, run some thin CA to seat them permanently, and watch some fall off, and repeat. There are 24 on each side and the kit provides 50, and I only lost 4 so a few tiny offcuts of old PE did the trick. There is very very little reference as to how it works so a bit of scratch building/imaginative interpretation as to how I will sling the launches much much later in the build. I am awaiting some perforated beams to place on some edges and this piece will be finished for all intensive purposes. I am now moving on to the deck, drilling and prepping areas that will be replaced by the Pontos parts plus a couple of hundred stanchion holes.
  6. Not at all, I had no idea that's what they were called. That's how we learn. I don't think many people would get the other reference!
  7. Banyan, I know what you mean and have edited it! I have to type all the time at work and after 27 plus years of it I'm still crap at it. Night shift is interfering with the build at the moment. I posted mid sleep, sponson supports, I've learnt something new!
  8. That's nice work, I'm tempted to do an aircraft carrier next, I love the metalwork on them, but I'm hoping something from WW1 comes out.
  9. Having read the instructions again, I need to add the Type 96 25mm AA gun mounts to the rear flight deck. A little more drilling and as the aft ones overhand the deck, a little bit of filling with card and putty. I have circled the areas that needed work, and after smoothing it out, added some support stanchions. When I affix it to the hull I will place three more behind each of these but I need them to sit flush on the hull and I will wait for that. Next will be the railings/runners for the launches.
  10. Not frustrating just part of the build really, I discovered more holes I am supposed to drill out too for the rear gun mounts (the PE instructions are so complex I really really really need to keep reading the kit instructions in conjunction), that also require support struts underneath. I am still waiting on some perforated beams that will go on the stern of this piece, which in total will probably represent about 3% of the entire build. The volume of work is enormous before I even consider purchasing an airbrush and learning how to use it, then learning how to use it properly and teaching myself proper weathering techniques with it. My previous 3 kits have been an excellent primer for this one as a lesson in patience.
  11. Pontos include them but never mention them in their instructions for some reason. There are a lot of assumptions, it would be nice if they were a little more linear in their instructions and not expect everyone to be a master modeller, but I expect it overcomes the language barrier. Their stuff is top shelf but they leave out some rudimentary things at times but it is generally better than anything else on the market. I think their primary engineer/designer left and started up his own company called Infinity which will probably even end up better.
  12. OC, I don't see why not, or use very this CA and put a little bit of matte on it afterwards.
  13. Use the eye end of a needle, dab some CA on it then into the plastic hole so it forms a glue rim, then use a sharpened pencil to place the metal porthole. If you don't do it this way the metal will stick to the pin as CA bonds to metal very very quickly but it won't stick to the pencil. Does that make sense? I don't use the portholes any more as the portholes only have eyebrows and I wasn't happy with the full circle look. Happy to explain more if required.
  14. Continuing on with the rear flight deck, there are 30 individual rails which consist of 2 pieces each which need t be glued together, making 69 bits to cut off and glue. Once attached there is more to add, which are non slip lino strips with brass. Then there are the turntables. None of these are glued down yet as I will paint them individually. I finally managed to drill out holes for the stanchions and now can flip it to add the underside details.
  15. I'm at a bit of a loss as what to do next, so I commenced the rear aircraft deck. There is a lot of work to do on it and I keep breaking 0.3mm drill bits in an attempt to make the 60 stanchion holes as it does not like the steel etch. Multiple rails to be added and turntables, and underside there are the carriers for the ships launches.
  16. She does have a big bum! You'll be surprised how quickly you go now, the hull is always hard work, everything should flow from here.
  17. I think the eyelets that go over to portholes to keep water out, like an eyebrow
  18. They come free floating (the dead lights), the ringols have to be cut from a curving line from Alliance modelsworks but are a pain to apply.
  19. Continuing on withe the upper hull, I tried adding step ladders but not really happy with them so I will only do the one side. There are about 250 deadlights where the portholes were covered later in the war. The kit just has them as blobs but as usual, there is an aftermarket for them. About 2 days of painful work.
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