RGL
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Everything posted by RGL
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Cog, I have put the funnel from the old tool to compare with the new. As you can see the new is a bit taller and wider. The New tool comes with internal baffles in PE, I just had to add ladders. I don't know if Mushasi was much different tho.
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The Pontos is made for the new tool. I agree that Flyhawk has some nice additions tho.
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A few hours of cutting and bending, the support struts for the rear deck. For some reason Pontos does not replace the ladders, maybe they did but there is no reference. The struts in the kit come in one piece, but this is really nice and they fit perfectly. I have added the 4 aftermarket support struts to go under the triple 25mms from the hull as Tamiya do provide some but they are not perforated. From these close ups you can see the hull lines and the deadyeyes that go over the portholes that are nicely detailed.
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True, but with so little reference material it's hard to know, so I'll stick to subtle.
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I don't know, I'll take a photo when I do the black pre shading, but you could probably tell from the chap on the other forum or AOTS. I have pre ordered the new version of AOTS from Amazon UK which comes out in March and ships in about 4 days to OZ (unlike 6 weeks plus from the US). If I can have the hull sorted by then I can do alterations to anything above. I imagine the hull would have been very weathered by 1945 but it's like being a little bit pregnant, you are either fully blown or just showing.
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I've seen both and attempted it on my Dreadnought. The new tool does have nice horizontal plating.
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I have seen models where people have done rivets along the hull but they are so out of scale they would have caused enormous drag. Given how thick the armour belts are I would be surprised if they were visible but I like the effect and it will be very subtle. There really are no publically available shots of the ship in detail given the secrecy of the project, I have some leeway. I will use Dr Google and try and find some photos of IJN ships.
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Ok,back to the kit. Using the Tamiya rattle can I have done the primer coat on the hull. All the gaps will be done with the airbrush as I have saved a lot of time. After working on the old tool hull I forgot how detailed the new kit is to date. Before I go any further though, I have to attached the rear flight deck, which, for some reason has warped in the heat. One that is done I will have to add the support struts under the rear wings and a few ladders before I can start painting again. After a month of work, I'm back tomorrow and the kids are back at school so that will slow things down again. You can see the old kit in the background, I've been playing around with weathering on it, but given the vast amount of detail on the new kit, I thought it time to take the plunge if I ever want to finish this monster.
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I really do feel your pain, bit like stropping all the rigging blocks required for the HMS Victory, it never seems to stop.
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My plan is to try and emulate his work when it comes to painting and weathering. I love the idea of the ribs being visible
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OK, I'm starting to get the hang of it. Soft hands. Essentially once I started to use a different brand of paint it all came together. If I diluted the Vajello it splattered even at low pressure and then it clogs. So, the practice hull, using some red I filled in the squares and oversprayed. The thing is with red, it does not cover very well, which actually makes this easier. Then some lighter red vertically along he ribs, which works really well giving a representation of a real thing. Now, credit where it is due, I am following Tamiya 1/350 Yamato (new tool) The definite mad edition: on the ship model Forum, this guy is good and I have learnt a lot. I've only gone a bit further with PE he he does but he is simply marvelous with the airbrush. So, the camera is not so sharp but the ribs really stick out, and as the old kit does not have the side band armor the horizontal lines are all over the place, but it is practice! The upper hull, I have used the same technique, playing with the colour contrast to get the hang of it and applying diluted filters over the top. Next is to practice the washes and the weathering. I know this is not the actual Yamato I am building, but given the investment, this is worth the time to get right. I have repeatedly over sprayed this hull and when I stuff up really really bad, no harm no foul.
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I've never heard of them, but will follow along and learn!
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- juno
- langton miniatures
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I just don't seem to be able to drive Vajello paints with my airbrush, I'm in the middle of coaching a rowing camp at the moment so still practicing with the new airbrush and slowly getting the hang of it, spray, clean, repeat. Still fun learning a new skill.
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If you look on Amazon UK John Roberts is releasing a blueprints book including the Warspite. I'm not planning a British ship anytime soon but I reckon you'd be keen.
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Probably something to do with our American friends trying to sink them. I can't imagine the courage of those young men who flew into its teeth. Glad it worked for you. May I suggest you tackle something else to rest your temper? I'm still trying to get consistent paint flow for my panel lines.
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Stretched Sprue! Place a line of it on the break line, let it set, sand flush, reattach broken bit. Don't forget most of this stuff is not visible to the naked eye.
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