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  1. Progress so far. Now that we’re out of the boring hull-shaping and sea base carving stage, progress will be a little more quick.
  2. Thanks! However this isn’t the first Dreadnought-type I’ve built in 1/1500 so it should be fairly straight forward. Here are a couple others:
  3. Greetings. I decided a while back that I didn’t want to build models of warships already available as plastic kits, but if I keep to this rule, I won’t be building many in the future. I can guarantee you won’t see me building Bismarck or Yamato anytime soon, or anything WWII for that matter. I’m breaking this rule here for Agincourt as Flyhawk just released their kit within the last year or so. It’s a gorgeous model though. So recently I was able to find a nice set of plans for Agincourt, but sadly they depict her in 1918 after much fiddling by the Royal Navy and I wanted
  4. I use it for shaping hulls out of the boxwood blocks. Also I can sand circular areas of superstructure like barbettes etc
  5. It’s an Aikeec. It’s a very solidly made little machine. I’ve had it apart to clean and service it and I was quite impressed with the build quality. It runs on standard 10mm x330mm belts too. Adjustable table and belt tensioner, across multiple axis. it’s easily broken down and used a s standard power supply, and since the wires are exposed you could change the power supply of you like.
  6. Another tool I can’t do without is the micro belt sander. I have a stainless steel variable speed myself, but several companies offer them. I wouldn’t know what to do without it.
  7. McCaffery’s book is every bit as good as McNarry’s just without all the whining about sales tax! Ha!
  8. I’ve been using Dumont since my watchmaking courses. I can also vouch for McCaffery’s book. Additionally, I can recommend every word written by Philip Reed. Not only a wonderful ship modeler, but one of the nicest men I’ve ever met.
  9. Typically I don’t use magnification during the build. I do use a Zeiss D40 loupe for checking my work, but they’re very expensive. For tweezers I use a phalanx of different styles from Dumont. They’re made in Switzerland and a superior product.
  10. Indeed she is a bit odd. The RN was certainly working with what they had on this hull, that’s for sure. Glad you like ‘er!
  11. That’s half the fun! Haha I always have a few days of postpartum depression after I finish a model while I decide what’s next. Building Emden and Duilio concurrently was a bit much, so I think I’ll get stuck in with one big project. I have excellent plans for HMS Nemesis (Napoleonic) and HMS Captain. I’d like to study how Captain was built, so maybe her next. I need to do some math to see whether Captain will be a 1/1500 or a 1/900 build. When I do Nemesis, she’ll be 1/900 certainly.
  12. A couple of you messaged me asking me to post this one when it was finished, so here it be. Greetings. I’d like to share my latest model, HMS Glatton as she appeared in the final hours of the war. The model is completely scratch built to 1/1500 scale or 125’ to 1”. The model is made from boxwood, brass, and the sea base is carved and painted wood. Paint is from ScaleColors of course. If you’d like to see more of my ships models they’re all on my website www.josephlavender.com I started this model just before finishing Duilio, so total build time was about a month. Pinnin
  13. I think the speed at which I model is a bit of a myth actually. I only complete about 5 of these a year. I finished Emden a month ago, and the concurrent Duilio build a week later. Since then, I’ve been on Glatton, so maybe 3 weeks just to get to the point you see above.
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