Tigersteve

Thanks guys. I added a revised photo in my previous post. Had to remove the cap rail behind the seat back. The shapes were loosing symmetry after more sanding and filing. Those sections of the cap rail were recreated and will be installed after I touch up the paint in that area. 
Steve

The inboard planking at the bow was completed by cutting pieces to shape. The curves needed were too extreme to edgebend. My paint job went to hell during the sanding of the cap rail. It is necessary to get the rail as thin as possible to avoid looking bulky. The overlap of the rail outboard is 1/32”. 
 
My original plan was to leave the cap rail natural, but it looks unfinished without paint now that I see it installed. It will take some time to paint so here are some photos in the meantime. 
Steve

To clarify your data,
when I saw that you were saying that the scale was 1:35 - I thought
"this will be one heck of a plaque- the Great Republic hull being 9.5 feet long."
So, playing with your numbers - I am guessing that  you are at 1" : 35'  or 1:420 for scale?
 
Half hulls are not a frequent subject, but they are certainly a valid subject.
The difference in hull lengths - being displayed in actual 3D - is educational and adds perspective
to the contemporary written comments.
 

The inboard planking at the bow was completed by cutting pieces to shape. The curves needed were too extreme to edgebend. My paint job went to hell during the sanding of the cap rail. It is necessary to get the rail as thin as possible to avoid looking bulky. The overlap of the rail outboard is 1/32”. 
 
My original plan was to leave the cap rail natural, but it looks unfinished without paint now that I see it installed. It will take some time to paint so here are some photos in the meantime. 
Steve

The inboard planking at the bow was completed by cutting pieces to shape. The curves needed were too extreme to edgebend. My paint job went to hell during the sanding of the cap rail. It is necessary to get the rail as thin as possible to avoid looking bulky. The overlap of the rail outboard is 1/32”. 
 
My original plan was to leave the cap rail natural, but it looks unfinished without paint now that I see it installed. It will take some time to paint so here are some photos in the meantime. 
Steve

Thanks guys. I added a revised photo in my previous post. Had to remove the cap rail behind the seat back. The shapes were loosing symmetry after more sanding and filing. Those sections of the cap rail were recreated and will be installed after I touch up the paint in that area. 
Steve

Interesting. I’ll follow. 
Steve

Hello,
Paul, if you have strong glasses and sharp knifes, I think you can do it too  Leo II is sitting here at my computer desk and would't leave it.
 
Today I'm started with planking. At first the wales. I made the lower strake and half the thick stuff at both sides.
 

 

 
I made first the butt and hook joints and glued them together. But if the joints are sanded and painted black, you would hardly see them 
 

 

 

 

 
So far for today. The rest will follow tomorrow.

Denis: There are four very visible coils in a sparse and very open area mid deck, attached to kevels that needed to lie spooled on the deck. Those I felt needed extra attention, otherwise I agree with you – not worth the extra detail work. Just coiling a spool and laying it above the cut end is just about perfect.
============
Those four + two are done, now onto the bow area.
 

 
 

Thanks guys. I added a revised photo in my previous post. Had to remove the cap rail behind the seat back. The shapes were loosing symmetry after more sanding and filing. Those sections of the cap rail were recreated and will be installed after I touch up the paint in that area. 
Steve

Thanks guys. I added a revised photo in my previous post. Had to remove the cap rail behind the seat back. The shapes were loosing symmetry after more sanding and filing. Those sections of the cap rail were recreated and will be installed after I touch up the paint in that area. 
Steve

I wasn't sure if half hull models were considered a legit topic...but I'm sure many have either put their hands  or wanted too, to creating half models of their favorite ships.
 
Thanks for all the likes everyone.
 
More to follow.
 
Rob

I'm  A SHIPYARD.
 
Well I took a few images of the blocks of wood for the next 3 hulls...the Sovereign...the James Baines and the Cutty Sark.
 
Drawn on the wood in 3D...I'll go to the bandsaw and cut them out.

Searching for a good place to start this..and since I will be building wood half models of at least 8 clipper ships..this looks like the right place.
 
I have several builder half models of several clipper ships..ie...the Lightning and the Cutty Sark.
 
But my problem is, in all the clipper models I build they are all roughly the same size models..but do not represent the actual comparative size to each other.  To keep the scale issue from being clouded as folks view my collection..and from misconceptions being formed that this ship was the same size as that ship; I am embarking on a new project.
 
To scratch build from carved wood a plaque that will contain some significant clipper ships through the period from 1845 to 1869.  A representation of the evolution of the clipper design.  As far as I am aware...there is no such collectors plaque currently available...so I am taking it upon myself to design and build one myself, for my library.
 
This means I will draft and scale 8 clippers...that I feel represent significant design changes and establish a visual representation of scale between these clipper ships.
 
I'm first starting with the Rainbow..of 159 ft built in 1845.
The Sea Witch of 170 ft built in 1846.
The Cutty Sark of 212 ft built in1869.
The Flying cloud of 229 ft built in1851.
The Young America of 243 ft built in 1853.
The Sovereign of the Seas of 258 ft built in 1852.
The James Baines of 266 ft built in1854
The Great Republic of 335 ft built in 1853
 
Each one of these clippers represents different designs and sizes...just what I want to demonstrate.
The average clipper's size fell between 170 and 260 ft in length....so I selected vessels that fell within that norm.  Not to be eclipsed by the Giant of them all the Great Republic.
 
I will be carving each of the half hull models from soft pine and the scale selected for rooms sake will be 1": 35'.  So the Rainbow will be roughly 4 1/4" long and the GR 9 1/4".
 
All will be situated in row on a nicely detailed plaque of wood(Painted antique green) with gilded trim.
 
Lets get started.
 
Rob

Hello again! Some moderate progress to report. The gun carriages have been partially assembled, so as to make staining them easier. All of the wooden parts have been created, except for the fasteners that keep the trucks from sliding off. The gun barrels are beginning to shape up, but I need to get some filler before I can put them together and paint them. Kurt recommended I use Bondo Glazing and Spot Filling Putty, #907. So far, I have been unable to locate it in any brick-and-mortar shop, so I will likely have to purchase it online. I will also eventually need to replace a swivel gun, as it has a major hole caused by a bubble that looks irreparable. The rudder has been built, as well as the tiller, but I don't think I have any photos of that yet. As I was making some metal parts, I decided to try my hand at making some miniature utensils to be placed on the model in the future. I made a butter knife, which, looking back, wasn't so great. It quickly disappeared to the next dimension, so I made a spoon. The spoon was successful, so I tried making a fork. That worked too, until I accidentally broke a prong off, so I trashed it. I then thought to make a new, better knife. I modelled it somewhat after the way I had seen swords made in a museum. They have a metal blade and interior handle, though the handle is not round, but has 90° edges. The base on the handle is wider, so as to prevent the exterior handle from slipping off. The knife was done much the same way. The handle was made of 1/32" cherry veneer, the same that was used on Phantom's planking. The squared off handle was 1/32" square, so the veneer stacked with it nicely. After the three layers we're stacked, the handle was sanded into shape. I think that these should go well with he fireplace that will go on the boat. All of the wooden parts for the rudder and tiller have been completed, and they are waiting to be stained. Essentially, I have a number of wooden parts waiting to be stained. Pictures to follow, some maybe later than others.

I always worry i wont get the masts glued at the right angles. I made these jigs hold the at the same angles on the plans. Each one is precisely made to fit around the mast and around, over in between, etc. all the stuff in the way to hold it exactly into place. Used small triangle squares to make sure they are not leaning on the sides. I had all this down with a combination of clothes pins and masking tape until the glue is set.
 
Jesse

I rigged the lower lift blocks, jeer blocks and slings before gluing the masts in place.
 
Jesse
 

Made a bit more progress today by simulating the lower stem and keel bolts. Holes were drilled with a #76 bit and filled with .017 black monofilament and PVA glue. I'm not a big fan of CA as it has a tendency to discolor the wood.
 
I anxious to see what the Cherry will look like after a coat of W-O-P. I should know soon enough.


Mike

The inboard planking at the bow was completed by cutting pieces to shape. The curves needed were too extreme to edgebend. My paint job went to hell during the sanding of the cap rail. It is necessary to get the rail as thin as possible to avoid looking bulky. The overlap of the rail outboard is 1/32”. 
 
My original plan was to leave the cap rail natural, but it looks unfinished without paint now that I see it installed. It will take some time to paint so here are some photos in the meantime. 
Steve