Tigersteve

Decided to spend the rainy day working on the Winnie.  This starts Chapter 9.
 
Happily, this is the chapter where we will cover up all remaining traces of the sub structure and bulkheads.  It will hopefully start looking much cleaner very soon.  
 
To begin, the bulwarks along the qdeck were planked at last.   There are two laser cut pieces to make this easier.  They are 3/64" thick. I added the aft section on both sides first.  You should shape it for a perfect fit first.  I made it a tad higher just in case there is some variation model to model.  You also have to notch it over the margin plank along the transom.  Then make life easier for yourself and paint these pieces while its off the model. 
 
Then glue them in position.   Repeat the process with the forward half of the qdeck bulwarks.  You can see the forward section for the port side laying on deck.  That will be added next before moving on to the fcastle.  Dont mind the dust.  I should have given it a blast of "air in a can"  to clean it up before taking the pictures.  Sorry about that.
 

For the fcastle bulwarks there is no need for laser cutting.  Just use a 7/32" wide strip cut to length and pre-bent.  I suppose a 1/4" wide strip would work to and just cut it down to fit.  I pre-bent the strip (3/64" thick) and then clamped it in position.  Then I traced the proper height and trimmed it to fit perfectly in one length.  But before doing so I added one short length against the bollard timber at the bow.  This is a flat piece painted red before gluing it in position.  Then you can use this to help position the long strip for the facstle bulwarks.  
 
I also pre- bent this long piece and once a perfect fit I pre-painted this as well.  Made for a nice clean edge against the deck beams although it wont matter because we will be adding the margin planks at some point soon.
 

It already looks so much nicer that I dont have to look at the bulkeads any more.  But lets keep going.
 
Time to add the caprail.  This will cover all the messy layers and finally close up all the framing so I no longer have to look at it.  So far I have only added the caprail along the waist.  A 5/16" x 3/64" strip was used.   I rounded off the outboard edge on top and bottom.  This edge will look nice this way above the fancy molding.   Then I painted it black while off the model including the inboard and outboard edges.  In fact those were most important.  When glued in position the inboard edge is flush against the bulwarks with no overhang.  The outboard edge should have much of an overhang but look nice being directly above the bright unpainted fancy molding.  
 

 
Here is an over picture of the model.....I will now add the caprail working my way aft first.  Then I will do the fcastle.  These pieces will be laser cut.
 

 
The bulwarks are widest in the waist at 5/16”…give or take.  If you have a need for a wider caprail that would be problematic.  There is nothing worse than an oversized and thick bulwarks.  It just means you didnt fair them down thin enough early in the project.  
 
The bulwarks and caprail are slightly narrower along the drifts and qdeck and the fcastle.  These next pieces will be laser cut so the width of your bulwarks will matter. These pieces will have cut-outs for the timberheads.

I Just finished up the chain pump construction. Definitely a fun kit to build. I'm going to add the fragile tongue later.
 
I found it easier to install the drain plug handle first, before adding it to the pump.

 
There are numerous "boards" that have to be beveled on one side only in order to conform to the rounded hood of the pump. In doing so, I removed all of the char on that one side while being careful not to overdo it. Just enough to clear the char. This gives the appearance of a tight joint when placed against the previously installed board.

 
Mike

I finished the repairs and the extensive cleaning of the older Dapper Tom. I decided to only repair what is existing and not add any new material. To clean the model, I dusted the ship with a 3/4 inch water-brush dry. Then water applied by a water-color brush and removed by a thin cotton cloth. While slow, just water worked wonders. That was sufficient so I did not proceed to anything stronger.

Based on all your feedback, I've redone the Lashing and Lacing, and tried to round off the spar.   Front and back now look alike, and seem to match the picture in the instructions!
FRONT OF SAIL:

BACK OF SAIL:

 
 

Just a brief update, as we are about to go on vacation and then I need to return one of my children to college, so no updates for a couple of weeks. 
 
Coppering is proceeding apace, but even at 6 tiles per segment, I still have a way to go. The yellow Tamiya tape represents the first line of plates in the second belt (i.e. the bottom of the tape - or rather the top of the tape in these pictures) represents the gore line.
 

 
Stay safe out there, and thanks for looking in and the well wishes.
 
George K

¼” wide auto pin striping tape was applied to the hull lining up exactly to the tops of the gun deck gun ports. A thin coat of white paint was applied along the top edge of the tape to seal off any potential bleed points. If there were any, it would bleed white on white. Then three coats of black paint were applied to the hull. Once the third coat dried to the touch, the tape was carefully peeled away. I have not done very much detail painting of this manner, so I had some minor touch-up work. Now for the interesting part, the quarter galleys.

Joe, Jean-Paul,
 
I dilute with water until I get a smooth flow out of the airbrush without having it come out too watery. I usually set the compressor between 35-40 psi. Hope that makes sense. 
 
Fred, thank you! Sometimes I feel the same way you do. . . "If only I were half as good...".
 
Mike

Finishing the paint job on the buckets took a while. White and green paint were mixed in different ratios to get the desired hue. The final coat was the lightest version of this mixture, followed by a damp brush while the paint was still wet. This removed most of the last coat to create the texture. 
 
Holes were drilled in the buckets and the thwarts were permanently installed. Next, I will work on the oars. 
Steve

Binding strakes + ledges.

Forecastle and quarterdeck waterway + inner waterway.

Thank you again for the  likes. 'Well appreciated.
 
Most of the additions shown here since the last update are dry-fit. The fairing in the cabin is done. The floor boards in the cabin are made from individual cherry planks glued to a 1/64" plywood backing and is removable in one one piece  at the moment. There is one thin layer of shellac on the planks to bring out the tone but it actually looks a little too new. I may dull that down a little somehow. The quarterdeck clamps are in place and the beams are dry-fit so I can still do some carpentry in the cabin. 
 
 
Save for a little more shaping work at the bow, the hull is fair. The deck beams are faired and a false deck of 1/64" piece of plywood is marked out and dry-fit in place. 3/64" boxwood for the deck planking from thewoodmansshed along with other sizes for the great cabin are on order. 
 
I put a little time into a practice section of covering board (port side). It went fairly well but I expect it will be a lot more challenging with the stem curvature.
 

 
Comments, tips & corrections are always welcome.
 
Mike
 

Installation of parts on the bottom of the funnel fiue.
 
 

I cant believe IT. Top of the fancyrail. Im so done. Exhausted.  But she IS done. Ať least second  big most important  super difficult milestone. I Will také IT very easy from now on so there wont be Updates fór weeks or months probably. and except ofvl paint and  figurehead. I Wish i could find  premade deck somewhere. Will see. I have broken computer so no more adjustments fór bow ornamentals. will be laser cut. Im looking forward tremendously for those. I still need to repair some bow things..but overwall drawings materialised. Im in awe how much Lena angles and photofgraphy distorts. Especially stern. Anglijg and focal length. IT Can be full and short as inichaels drawings and Can be sleek and shallow as well. I believe we hlave All recreated probably  as truer Glory of the seas as possible though. 
 
 
 
 
 

Thanks Cathead and druxey.  I will deconstruct the whole thing and try again.  First, as Steve points out, I will round the spars.  Then I'll re-do the Lacing, with your helpful descriptions, Cathead.  And druxey, I re-read the instructions and it make smore sense now.
Onward and upward!  Someone once said that making mistakes is how to learn.  I'm learning a lot with these steps!   

Finishing the paint job on the buckets took a while. White and green paint were mixed in different ratios to get the desired hue. The final coat was the lightest version of this mixture, followed by a damp brush while the paint was still wet. This removed most of the last coat to create the texture. 
 
Holes were drilled in the buckets and the thwarts were permanently installed. Next, I will work on the oars. 
Steve

Sanding sticks were made using kit wood and a glue stick. These sizes were very handy for working on the cap rail. I also modified the transom to a more pleasing curve. 
 
Painting is very close to being finished. I am trying to avoid purchasing more paint as I have over diluted a couple of my colors. Oar construction is also underway. 
 
Color scheme (Tamiya Flat Paints);
Exterior Hull: Flat Earth
Interior Hull: Desert Yellow
Cap rail/Gunwale: J.A. Green
 
For the few following along- thank you for all the likes!
Steve

Needed a break from painting so back to construction. I was finally able to install the first part of the cap rail. This was sanded flush with the gunwale. After the remaining pieces are installed,  I will add some filler to any gaps and sand them flush. See the attached rough photo. 
Steve

Painting continues… Thwarts (not glued yet) were painted to match the color of the interior hull. The gunwale and cap rail are painted green. In the photo you can see the modifications to the cap rail. Mine did not match the profile of the hull so I cut them. I will remake those aft pieces to match the remaining curve of the hull after the first parts are installed.
 
I started to get a “chalky” finish to the interior hull. I think the paint got diluted with too much water. I will need to get a fresh bottle of paint to get the proper finish. 
 
I’ve been modifying the display stand as well. Updates on that coming soon. These macro photos are brutal. The finishes are much smoother to the naked eye.
Steve

Before moving onto the cap rail I decided to work on the thwarts. These are not just removed from the sheet and attached to the boat. You must make adjustments. Beveling the sides and notches where they meet the frames is necessary for a tight fit.
 
Quite a bit needed to be removed as they were oversized. I had to remake one thwart from scratch because I took off too much. I ran the thwarts over a 320 grit sanding block to create the bevel on the sides and used files to bevel the notches. These are not glued yet. 
Steve
 
Druxey, the risers are stable. This procedure was a good test for them!

Side cleats installed. Here is the interior of the hull at this point. 
Steve

After planking was complete I removed the boat from the building board and cut off the excess frames. I sanded them down so I could work on the finishing of the exterior of the hull. 
 
This is where you address your mistakes. Although I created the rolling bevels, I did not spend much time tweaking the fit to the adjoining bevels on previous planks. To address this I sanded the exterior of the planks as they approach the stem and transom. This created more of a taper and finished look. Sanding sticks and 320 grit sandpaper were used in these steps. 
 
At the stern I ended up with some excess curvature. I think this started to occur when positioning the broad strake at the bow. Must have pulled the plank too far toward the sheer. I didn’t notice the error at that point and it just compounded. Not worth ripping off planks, but I will try to make adjustments to the sheer by doing some light sanding later on. (Actually, I think the error is only on one side so I’m not even sure the cause.)
 
Next, I will clean up the interior of the hull.  Need some fresh wood filler for the seams at the bottom of the boat. I included some photos of the clamping methods used during planking. 
Steve

I think the sail looks pretty good. Shouldn’t the spar be rounded though? That is sticking out to me. Doesn’t look right. 
Steve

I think the sail looks pretty good. Shouldn’t the spar be rounded though? That is sticking out to me. Doesn’t look right. 
Steve

More progress. .

 
Mike

I think the sail looks pretty good. Shouldn’t the spar be rounded though? That is sticking out to me. Doesn’t look right. 
Steve