Jump to content

Norwegian Sailing Pram by lraymo - FINISHED - Model Shipways - 1:12


Recommended Posts

I'm just starting my SECOND model ... the Norwegian Sailing Pram.  As a rank beginner, I learned alot from my first build (the Lowell Grand Banks Dory), but this one looks even more complex and challenging!  So I first read several of your Build Logs here, and I'm glad I did.  Found out my instruction manual was printed at less than 100%, so I downloaded and printed the appropriate pages (p 4, 5, 39) from the Model Shipways pdf, specifying 100% on my printer.  Worked out well.  (As an FYI, the "foot" of the sail pattern is supposed to measure 6".  In my manual, it was only 5 3/4", so my new printout is now correct.)

 

I also learned from the logs to do an Inventory check.  Sure enough, mine was missing two oar locks.   Called Model  Shipways and they were really great, and will mail me the missing parts.

 

But now I have questions on tools.  I only have the initial tool set from the Dory, but the instructions show a longer list of tools required.  I know I need drills and files, but it also mentions "hard metal flush cutting shears", bench block, miter box, broach (what are these used for?), and mini plane?  Any advice on which tools I really need?   

Thanks and looking forward to getting started!

 

1540925641_instructionpicture_1000.jpg.551b898c4514f414fbf32a6429470da1.jpg

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I find cutting shears or snippers very useful for rough cutting the planking as well as a bunch of other cutting.

 

I bought a miter box and mini-saw b/c the model I was building needed more than one plank to go the length of the ship and I needed to angle them in the middle so they would be flush over the bulkhead. Now that I have it, I find it very useful for cutting dowels too. Not sure if you would absolutely need it for a smaller model though.

 

I think "broach" in this context means a tool that I would call a reamer - for gently enlarging drilled holes. But I don't know for sure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 hours ago, lraymo said:

Hi Ryland.  Do I need to add "tags" to the title of this new build log? Or is that something that you do? (I didn't do that for my Dory log, but they magically appeared).  Just wanting to make sure I'm doing things correctly!

You can add the tag for the name of the boat and the manufacture by clicking on the "+Add Tag" button located under your build log title.  This will open up another window.  Add the tags you want and be sure to hit the save button.  The moderators monitor the tags and will add them to a build log if missing. 

 

I look forward to following your build.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Lynn, glad to see you're getting stowed away here in your new digs. Great idea calling Model Shipways about the tools required to build the Pram. Speaking of the Pram, she's cute as a button. I'm excited about your next steps in model ship building and wishing you success.........Keith

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Ryland - I added appropriate tags!

 

Thanks Keith - I've ordered drill & bits, miter box, and a set of files.  The guys at Model Shipways say these will get me started, and if I need to, I can order more as needed in the future.  I'm looking forward to this new challenge, and as always, thanks for your encouragement!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Getting a really slow start.  Just started on the bow transom and the lower stern transom.  In the instruction manual, the knee for the stern transom covers just over half the transom, whereas the knee on MY transom covers almost all the distance of the transom.  Am I using the wrong knee? (I used the "stern transom knee")   I put mine next to the picture in the manual to show the difference.  Hoping this is ok.  Also, I'm trying to do better on cleaning up excess glue!

 

1066126911_sterntransom3_1000.jpg.fc9ccb688e4b71a98b2af4c0e78500b1.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, I'm confused.  Here's the cutouts.  There's two "stern transom knees' (I assume for the upper and lower stern transom), and there's one "bow transom knee" on the cutouts.  And here's what I've done so far.  Very confusing.  Not sure what went wrong!

651384785_alltransoms_1000.jpg.a3618ec6143d48891892c487575b7fe4.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

 Lynn, looking a SkiBee's build log post #14 and this his photo, I think you're good to go. Their instructions seem to be lacking in clarity, probably a good idea to follow SkiBee's build log closely. 

 

 Nothing like a little excitement right out of the gate. :blink:

 

 

image.png.698043a2f609568a50d94edde42664d7.png

Edited by Keith Black
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted (edited)

Nice one Lynn, you are learning all the time. I have been doing this hobby for the better part of 50 years and am still learning. The great thing of a forum like MSW is being able to get help and advice from other members, and building up your skills to a point where you will be able to give advice yourself. You will soon build up a collection of tools once you work out what you need.

The one thing I would suggest you might want to  add to your list is a Dremmel and attachments. And if you haven't already a good pin vice.

Looking forward to following your build.  Enjoy the journey.

Paul

Edited by Paul Jarman
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lynn, good start so far, and you're right away (re?)discovering the world of confusing instructions. As an editor, I've contacted multiple model companies offering to work with them to improve the clarity of their instructions, but none have felt it was needed. Shrug.

 

Looking at the final model, I don't think this issue will matter. Whether or not the knee comes all the way up to the top of the lower stern transom doesn't appear to have any structural significance, and that area ends up covered anyway. So I suspect you're fine. Would be far from the first time that instructions developed from a prototype don't match the final commercial product.

 

In fact, I wonder if they changed the part size. Look at the drawing on page 3, which appears to show the stern transom knee being the same size as the bow transom knee (not quite a bit larger as in the kit parts), and neither reach the top of their respective transom. So I wonder if, in final kit development, they made the stern transom knee better (better stability for the model?) but didn't revise the instructions to match?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Going slowly.  I am waiting on the pin vise to be delivered, to finish the bow transom, and then I managed to break the stern transom holder while assembling the building board.  Thinking I need to stop for today!  

Thanks Paul, for your words of wisdom.  And I think the dremmel needs to be my next purchase.

Eric, the instructions could sure use an editors help!

1351819892_transoms4_1000.jpg.518746e92572225c1bef41b6dc841cc1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, the pin vise and other tools won't arrive for another 3 days, so I'm doing what I can while I wait.  Fixed the broken stern transom holder, bent the first few planks, and started practicing "rabbets" on some scrap wood.  I'm a little nervous attempting these on actual planks, but its all a learning process!  I think my first one turned out better than the 2nd one!

1206810859_bendingplanks_1000.jpg.e0ba3a6e5352198b322c296632fe936d.jpg

 

282771406_practicerabbet_1000.jpg.ccd1f09122471843cd513a03acb4fecb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tools arrived, and I've gone to work on the planks!   

Pictures:

1-Gluing the bottom planks - needed some weight on the ends, and this little candle-holder worked well.

2-Keel & bottom planks done

3-stern transom with issues... not sure what was supposed to happen , but I'll use wood filler to close the gap between the bottom planks and the keel.  Also, the planks don't quite meet where they're supposed to on the transom, but so far, it doesn't seem to affect the other planks

4-garboard done

5- bending second strakes, will glue in tomorrow

It's beginning to look like the hull of a ship!  Looking forward to continuing, but next purchase MUST be a lighted magnifiying lamp!  My eyes are tired.  Any suggestions on a good magnifying lamp?

241179834_bottomplanksbeingglued_1000.jpg.bb7e39fb046171c875972fa3e922aaef.jpg

 

136110544_keelandbottomassembled_1000.jpg.f4d6af0b12a2408a03be8ad087a80485.jpg

 

1613329771_sterntransomwithissues_1000.jpg.9a94f6b33677b1235bfabe560f732fd2.jpg

 

842902179_garboarddone_1000.jpg.c9295322b0a83c80577a040b64a35932.jpg

 

1660184403_bendingsecondstrake_1000.jpg.8a7bd3f54e67ad0126fdd22a7389450c.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Planking is done!  I tried to be better about cleaning up excess glue.  I thought the planks were going on fairly easily this time (as compared to the Dory), but I noticed that the rabbets must've been too big, because you can see them near the bow on the inside of the hull.  And the bow is slightly crooked, which I hope will fix itself when I trim the extra wood from it.

Meanwhile, my new magnifying lamp has arrived, and my kitchen table "workbench" is now complete!!!  If I have a party at the house, though, I'll have to find a place for all this stuff!

464635060_4plankdone_1000.jpg.561dd86bd716314a72090cf07ac86099.jpg

 

 

1605778125_3plankdone_1000.jpg.43093b5b65d89ddde4ac4dd90e026cb9.jpg

 

288157614_1plankdone_1000.jpg.9b81508ba980a2d19cecb74f33b93ad1.jpg

 

645459716_5planklight_1000.jpg.ec80c462bda068deec4669d11d6d7a40.jpg

2 plank done_1000.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's taking me so much longer working on this (the Dory seemed to go faster!).  For one thing, I'm discouraged with my lack of expertise... the frames aren't exactly vertical and there's still glue residue on the planks (I've washed away excess glue, but I can't seem to remove the residual yellow glue stains).  The only thing going well are the inwales, that seemed to go on fairly easily.   And I'm hoping the eventual painting will cover some errors.  I also managed to break the bottom piece of the mast step, but fixed it and since both pieces had a hole (and the bottom piece is supposed to be a stopper for the mast)... I used a small piece of scrap, same width as the step, to create a stop.  Hope this works!

Time seems to be an issue too, but only because my other hobby (golf!) is taking up some serious modeling time!

 

1527591924_bowtransom_1000.jpg.74354b0a1c9ecd43a4b16fee181f7eb8.jpg

 

476982675_sterntransom_1000.jpg.230ce5f4282c667ce9c4206e7ba861b3.jpg

 

346171200_maststep_1000.jpg.2c9b41ae098ebc3ed8d4ac1052b49a96.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks good to me. Nice job on the planking. Breaking the odd peace now and then is all part of the learning curve.

As your skills progress breakages  get less and less. Once you move on to the larger scale models you will find it a lot easier due to the size of pieces you work with.

Wood glues are all a matter of  personal choice and what suits you best and which you find easier to use. I personally only use the yellow glue on areas I know won't be seen. And on the superstructure which will eventually be painted. 

I use a good quality white glue for all  the planking. And for areas that require a better bond I find  a white anathalatic glue works best.

I find those lamp magnifiers hard to use. A good headband magnifier works far better and comes with a variety of different magnifications. They also allow you to get closer to the part you are working on.

It does take a bit longer to complete models as you move up through the higher end kits. The great thing about being retired is you can put in as much time as you feel like doing. You might find that with these smaller kits 3-6 months is about average. Once you move on to the larger scale models anything up to a year is good going. Move on to the big ship of the line kits and 2-3 years is average. Some modelers can spend up to 10 years on a model

Keep up the good work, looking forward to your next update.

Enjoy your golf as well. Used to play myself until I moved to far from the course I played. 

Paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Lynn, good to see a Pram update, I think you're doing splendid.  You're excess glue removal is evident by the sharpness of detail. Twenty models into this hobby you'll still be learning because each new project presents it's on set of problems needing to be solved and you'll still be your harshest critic.    

 Good to see you play golf, it's too easy to become one dimensional. Good work, steady on.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...