Tim Curtis

Have made a bit of progress on the standing rigging. Shrouds for foremast are in place.

Also forestays, served and spliced in order to loop around foremast trees.

Finally created the guys for the bowsprit. This was tricky. First had to create a collar with eyelets either side. Collar also needed the deadeye for the bobstay to be attached to it.


Then made the the bowsprit guys themselves, which are then lashed to the collar. Both collar and guys have eyelets and thimbles. First go at this, but managed to get the hang of making little thimbles, by pushing a dremel head into some small sections of silver coated brass beads (from a bead store). This gives them a bit of shape. Then created a false splice around them. Finally make the little lashing and there we go.
 



 
Its 2am, and I have a busy day with kids tomorrow. My wife is going to kill me... Bed time. Happy new year!

Fig- 56 With all the parts ready tinned and slotted in place, it was just a matter to run the heat along each side to fix/melt the solder and fix them in place.  Here I have modified a copper soldering iron bit to give me a short length of hot iron. However I did find that it took forever to heat up enough to do the job, and finally resorted to filing up to the same shape, to the end of a carbon rod and using that.  In use, one needed to make contact with the parts with the tip of the rod, then with the foot switch, switch on a low power, and just slide the heating carbon tip along the top of the pre- tinned angle, then switch off and remove the carbon tip. My concern in not using the carbon rod at this stage, was the shorting of the rod against the other metal parts deep down in the hull should I inadvertently touch them - easy done.  Shorting is the only danger with the use of the resistance soldering unit, if the live rod does touch another part, one will get ‘spark erosion’ ie a hole in that part.  However some further experiments, showed that all I needed was a thin tube of paper - any paper - around the rod with just the tip showing to solve the problem, as will be seen later in the project. The heating at the tip is not on long enough to set the paper on fire, but even if it did, it would course less damage than ‘spark erosion’.
 
 As I remarked earlier, this is flying my the seat of your pants, you learn as you go along, hopefully doing as little damage as possible in the process. Note that the end of the Comb Clamps can be seen at the top on the assembly on each side at the tween deck level.

Hello
Mike, Jose, Albert and Ed,
Thank you for your interest and the nice words.
Many thanks also to the others for the LIKEs.

Meanwhile, I made the different chainplate types.

The next picture shows an already assembled chainplate.

Today I finished the standing rigging.
 

 
Once the ratlines were done I only had to rig the topmast shrouds and the topmast stay.
 

 
Even though I have shown the topmast backstay on the plans,  I did not rig them.  I just wanted to show what they would look like.  Only under rare conditions were they used.  I have never seen a contemporary model with them rigged and the straps on the side of the hull are always left empty.  So I decided to follow suit.  I think it ruins the look of the model a bit as well and this is more in keeping with what everyone is used to seeing.
 

 

 

 
Next up I will start the running rigging.   Its getting close!!!!

Thank you Albert, Louie, Cog and EJ_L,
your kind words are always good for a poor modeler´s soul.
Thanks also for the likes.
 
For a year I am working on the five boats for the French corvette.
Now they are ready and here at the end some pictures of all five.
I hope you like them.

 

 

Again a small update. Its going slow, but....  its going :D
 
And a few more pictures.......
 
 
 

Finally finished the transom.
Last set of notches (aka "macro is brutal")

 
Horizontal piece also got some of them, on a weird angles:

 
Glued in, treenailed and masked for fairing:

 
Fairing was easy, because the smooth curve of the transom allowed to use the plane:

 
Faired. I made one mistake, one joint is too shallow, so can't fair this junction properly - the wood is too thin and will fall off
Too late and painful to fix, decided to leave it as is. Eventually this will become a part of the quarter gallery, so it will be less visible:

 
Put the oil on it (that was fun, so many surfaces to carefully oil and so many are crossing each other). Can't wait for it to dry, sorry for reflexes due to wet oil!
Note that due to a different grain orientation, oil resulted in different colours for different groups of timbers. Light "along the grain", medium dark "diagonal grain" and very dark "cross grain". It is all made literally made of the same piece of wood, I promise! Wood is magic
Not everything aligned as it should, but I started with a not very symmetrical transom, at least haven't made it worse. Will pay much more attention to the proper alignment in the next build!

 

 

 
Now I am taking a short break - will shift attention to the jewellery box I promised to admiral, and then will come back to this log with a display case for the model. The model is far from being complete, but it does not stop from displaying it properly, and will definitely help to keep the dust off.

Hello wefalck Of course, you're absolutely right in terms of the historical reality in terms of engineering performance copies of this ship. However, at such a small scale to try to do so as the present, the real ship is not possible. In addition, it should not be done. I do not make a real ship. I'm trying to create a model of the ship and it is above all the image of a real ship. The model is first and foremost a work of applied art. My task is to convey accurately the artistic image, the spirit of a real ship. Therefore (after the experiment), I chose the most successful variant (close to reality), which would correspond to the artistic concept model. Special thanks for the excellent photos. I already took this photo in my archive. Very useful for creating a model in 1:24 scale (at least !!!)

Another photo and Merry Christmas
 

 

 

A little more progress on the stern, brass strips are proving to be a right pain  

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

One more photograph. Here is the schooner with its proud owner. Darren and I have been friends since 1st grade. He loves the schooner and I am happy to have been able to build it for him. To him and all of you, Merry Christmas.
 
Russ 

A year to the day since I bought the kit, I am finished.  My only regret is I wish I would have kept track of my total hours worked.  Will do that next time.  Thanks for all the likes and kind words along the way.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks Michael . I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
 
On my scratch built model of the Sloop Providence I rigged up the shrouds and rat lines in a way new for me. Rather than doing this delicate job on the model, I decided to make a"rigging station."   That is a scrap wood duplicate of the beam and locations of the lower dead eyes P&S., the mast  located in the middle of the station by means of an appropriate hole in the wooden "rigging station." After seizing the upper dead eyes to the shrouds separately I then placed the shrouds on the model The Sheerpole was now seized on to the shrouds to hold it all together. Now by means of a tagged  bent shallow wire U , marked as to which one is which ( notice in the photo ) both upper and lower deadeyes held all to the hull, mast and shrouds.    At this point the whole thing ,mast, shrouds, and deadeyes can be removed from the model and transferred to the rigging station to enable the ratlines to be more easily tided in. I tagged each shallow U wire for reinsertation later on the model   . The deadeyes are held in position on the rigging station  by means  straight pins. I used the usual ratline spacing guide made from scrap paper etc.   For me this method of tieing in the rat lines off the model was worth the trouble of transferring the rig back and forth and making a"rigging station."   It also has the advantage of being able to take all off the model once again to more easily bend on the main sail via the mast hoops and do some of the running rigging aft of the mast without the encumbrance of the standing rigging in the way. When the running rigging is in place  I can  then rig up the lanyards of the upper and lower deadeyes.   PS the rigging station is shown minus the rig unfortunately I didn't take any images of it in use but i hope viewers get the idea.   Well time will tell if this works as planed.   SOS  
 
 
 

Tuesday, December 20, 2016
 
Today I do not feel to make wood dust for finishing the hull, so I did other.
 
I recovered the material of the first building slip, which is no longer usable, and I prepared the second building slip, which I hope will be really useful in a few days, when I'll start working inside the hull.
Making these components is always pretty fun, and this is still true for this one . . .
With this slip the model stays in its normal position.
 
The images that follow show the slip with an overall view and two detailed views.
 
01 - 20161220_174625.jpg
02 - 20161220_174647.jpg
03 - 20161220_174634.jpg
More images with the model lying at the basement, although the not yet removed skeleton severely limits the internal view of the hull.
 
04 - 20161220_174604.jpg
05 - 20161220_174540.jpg
06 - 20161220_174547.jpg
Best wishes to all of you and Merry Christmas, Happy 2017 and happy holidays, Jack.

more photos

I began to stamp sheets underwater casing ...

Thank you for the kind words guys.
 
The lower backstays are completed so next up was to make the sling and then add the mainstay.
 

 
The sling for the lower yard is served its entire length.  I used .035 dark brown rope.  It has a thimble seized to it with a hook made of 22 gauge wire and eyes formed on each loose end.  After determining the length for the loose ends I formed the eyes and you can see how the eyes close up the sling by being inter-twined.  I originally thought it would be easier to make the sling off the model.   Which it was.  BUT there were trade-offs.  This meant that I had to unhook all of the blocks on the mast to get it in position.  That wasnt too bad BUT afterwards I discovered that the sling wasnt long enough to get around the forward spreader.
 

 
This was bad.  I either had to cut the sling off and make another one...rigging it in place.....OR, try to carefully remove the forward spreader.  I ended up removing the spreader without any damage.  BUT I wouldnt recommend this to all the Cheerful builders out there.  Best to rig it in place.
 
The main stay was rigged from .054 dark brown rope.  It was served around the masthead only down to about 1/2" below the splice.  Thats right....a splice rather than a mouse.   This was very common on cutters of the period and appears much more often on contemporary examples than the one or two found with a mouse.
 
  
 
The other end of the stay had the 5-hole deadeye turned into it.  The lanyard was rove through it as usual but the loose end was taken up around the stay once and then finally seized to the stay as shown.  I used very fine fly-tie thread for this.  It finished it off nicely.
 

 
Now that the main stay is completed I can go back to all these loose ends at the belaying points and re-tension the lines.   After that I will cut off the excess and add rope coils....
 

 

 
Next up....ratlines!!!!!

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 190 – Framing the Fore Top
 
It was nice to get back to some pure – well almost pure – woodworking on the tops.  There will be ironwork involved, but not in this post.  The first picture shows the first step, pinning the 9" x 9" crosstrees to the drawing.
 

 
Pins were placed in holes that are centered on the slots that will pass the deadeye straps for the topmast shrouds.  They are conveniently located to index the pieces.  In the next picture the 9" x 18" trestletrees have been mortised and fitted.
 

 
The port trestletree is being glued, held down by pin clamps.  The next picture shows the basic framework positioned on the hounds.
 

 
The spacing of the members provides just sufficient clearance to go over the masthead bands.  The top framing is temporarily wedged forward of the mast to check and adjust the level on the top face of the hounds.  The top is aft-heavy.  The next picture shows the rim being formed.
 

 
This was made in a two piece laminate to facilitate bending and minimize spring-back after the two dried pieces were glued.  The rim is shown on the drawing in the next picture.
 

 
The lap joints in the trees have been cut in this picture.  In the next picture the laps have been cut in the rim.
 

 
Indexing holes were drilled in the rim before the joinery was done.  Finally, the assembled framing.
 

 
Next, planking and triming out the top.
 
Ed
 

some other small decoration:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mast Partners.  I've reviewed the details of mast partners from TFFM.  I'll use the same basic layout, adjusted to fit between the deck beams.  That involves locating where the mast passes through the deck.  I used the gantry again to line up a temporary mast (square section at the largest diameter is at the partners). Allowing for a very slight rake, I now know where the hole in the partners needs to be.
 

 

 
Picture pasted in MS Paint looks crude, but you get the idea.  There are some odd angles to where the cross chocks meet the carlings and the partners will be visible, so special attention needs to be paid.  The hole will be rounded and a bit larger than the mast to allow for wedges.
 
Maury

The knees are in place for the first four beams.

 
If I keep going fore to aft with the beams, I think I have to get the mast partners drawn up and installed.  I have the layout of partner pieces from my Echo Section build.  Seems a reasonable place to start.  I'll pull more info. from Yedlinsky.    Lining up the hole with the mast step needs to be done, so a temporary mast needs to be set.
Maury

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 189 – Lower Mizzen Fittings
 
The mizzen mast has some additional hardware not found on the forward masts. First, there is a belaying ring, or spider band around the mast instead of the fife rails of the forward masts.  The design of this is not documented, but from the work on the rigging list, at least 16 lines should be belayed here.  The ring for the model is a simple circular flange around the mast bored for 16 belaying pins.  The unblackened part is shown in the first picture.
 

 
This was made as a turning from a solid brass billet to fit over a brass tube mast ring that was silver-soldered in.  The pin holes were then drilled in the mill using the rotary table.  The ring will be a tight fit over the mast about 39" off the deck.  This is a pretty piece that will be completely hidden under a mass of rope.
 
In the next picture it has been blackened and installed on the mast.  Above it is a reinforcing hoop and above that will be a bracket that will support the spanker mast.
 

 
 
A start on the spanker mast bracket is shown in the drawing.  The mast band part of it has been shaped to fit the mast and will be soldered with other parts added progressively.  The finished bracket is shown in the next picture.
 

 
This piece is of thicker stock than the normal mast hoop, as were the bands for the lower yard trusses.  The small eye will support the goose neck of the spanker boom.  Both pieces are shown on the mast in the next picture. 
 

 
The spider ring was pre-blackened, but all the copper work will be blackened later as was done for the other masts.  The third piece to be made was the wood stool for the spanker mast.  While the bracket maintains the horizontal position, the stool will take the weight of the 9" diameter mast.  The next picture shows the stool parts.
 

 
For strength on the model, I set the stool itself into a mortise in the mast that will give it the appearance of a surrounding piece but the strength of the mortise joint.  Two triangular gussets that will reinforce the stool are shown.  The last picture shows the three items installed.
 

 
Shaping and polishing of the stool assembly has yet to be done.  The gussets were glued to flats filed on the mast.  The remaining hoops may now be installed on the mizzen mast.
 
Meanwhile, work has begun on the fore top.
 
 
Ed

Here are some photos of the completed model. While there are many things that I like about the model, there are, of course, those things that I dislike. This has been a love/hate relationship for 5 years and even now, I am not certain where I am in that cycle. I know that this has been a great learning experience and I am delighted to have completed the model. Right now that, and Christmas, are what has me feeling good. I thank everyone who has looked in and followed along. It is all very much appreciated.
 
My client loves the model and I hope her son will like it when he sees it on Christmas morning. This is something he does not know about and will not see coming.
 
Russ

The fore shrouds were completed so I finally have all the lower shrouds on the ship.  Again, there are no sheer poles as per Antcherl’s book.  Catharpins were also added; and I used the same method of constructing them as on the main mast.  It only took 7 tries this time to get four catharpins the same length.  And, finally, the fore stays were installed.
Following Antcherls’s book, my next task is to make and add the tops.

Continuation.
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 
 
 
The beginning of the relation is available at this address:
 
 
http://5500.forumact...ndre-1-24#66516
 
 
 
Regards, Pawel