tlevine
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tlevine got a reaction from Elmer Cornish in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
I have started making the pillars between the upper and lower decks. The pillars in the hold were simple affairs but these have a spindle on the top and bottom. There is a drawing of the pillar on the plans and I did my best to copy it. On one end, the spindle has two turns and at the other end only one. I am turning them on a Sherline lathe using a duplicator from Vanda-Lay. http://vanda-layindustries.com/html/duplicator.html The outline for the pillar is ground onto a single edged razor using very thin grinding discs designed for use in dental labs. The spine of the razor was removed to allow it to fit into the duplicator holder. The rough shape was made with the cutting tool and final shaping was done with a triangular needle file. The top square of the pillar is 5" and the bottom square is 6". I will remove the extra wood on top after I have a few more pillars made. The good news is that all the pillars do not need to be made at once. Since I am averaging one keeper to two throw-aways, that is a good thing.
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tlevine got a reaction from jaerschen in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
I have started making the pillars between the upper and lower decks. The pillars in the hold were simple affairs but these have a spindle on the top and bottom. There is a drawing of the pillar on the plans and I did my best to copy it. On one end, the spindle has two turns and at the other end only one. I am turning them on a Sherline lathe using a duplicator from Vanda-Lay. http://vanda-layindustries.com/html/duplicator.html The outline for the pillar is ground onto a single edged razor using very thin grinding discs designed for use in dental labs. The spine of the razor was removed to allow it to fit into the duplicator holder. The rough shape was made with the cutting tool and final shaping was done with a triangular needle file. The top square of the pillar is 5" and the bottom square is 6". I will remove the extra wood on top after I have a few more pillars made. The good news is that all the pillars do not need to be made at once. Since I am averaging one keeper to two throw-aways, that is a good thing.
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tlevine got a reaction from druxey in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
I have started making the pillars between the upper and lower decks. The pillars in the hold were simple affairs but these have a spindle on the top and bottom. There is a drawing of the pillar on the plans and I did my best to copy it. On one end, the spindle has two turns and at the other end only one. I am turning them on a Sherline lathe using a duplicator from Vanda-Lay. http://vanda-layindustries.com/html/duplicator.html The outline for the pillar is ground onto a single edged razor using very thin grinding discs designed for use in dental labs. The spine of the razor was removed to allow it to fit into the duplicator holder. The rough shape was made with the cutting tool and final shaping was done with a triangular needle file. The top square of the pillar is 5" and the bottom square is 6". I will remove the extra wood on top after I have a few more pillars made. The good news is that all the pillars do not need to be made at once. Since I am averaging one keeper to two throw-aways, that is a good thing.
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tlevine got a reaction from mtaylor in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
I have started making the pillars between the upper and lower decks. The pillars in the hold were simple affairs but these have a spindle on the top and bottom. There is a drawing of the pillar on the plans and I did my best to copy it. On one end, the spindle has two turns and at the other end only one. I am turning them on a Sherline lathe using a duplicator from Vanda-Lay. http://vanda-layindustries.com/html/duplicator.html The outline for the pillar is ground onto a single edged razor using very thin grinding discs designed for use in dental labs. The spine of the razor was removed to allow it to fit into the duplicator holder. The rough shape was made with the cutting tool and final shaping was done with a triangular needle file. The top square of the pillar is 5" and the bottom square is 6". I will remove the extra wood on top after I have a few more pillars made. The good news is that all the pillars do not need to be made at once. Since I am averaging one keeper to two throw-aways, that is a good thing.
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tlevine reacted to garyshipwright in HMS Montague 1779 bygaryshipwright - 74-gun Alfred-class
Thanks every one, your words mean a lot. After some time I finally do believe I have a almost finish 32 pound cannon. There is just a few details such as the metal hoop that goes on the end of the axle's and maybe a tompions that goes in the mouth of the cannon yet to do. I have not had a lot of time and had Chuck make me up some 5/32 blocks and hooks to rig the tackles. I tried the 1/8 inch blocks but they seem to be to small. Has far as the messenger cable I made a new one to replaced the black cable, and rigged it in place. Not sure how the two ends come together so I just may have to change that in the future, if its wrong. If any of you know how it was done let me know, will you please. Hopfully I find a few minutes to take a look. One thing that I though was neat is the small chain that hold's the trunnon key hanging down on the stbd side and it twin on the port side in place to prevent the trunnon opening up. Hope you enjoy the photo's folks as much as I enjoy building the cannon's. Now I only have another 27 to go.
The pumps are undergoing maintence on them. After looking at the hoods, thought just maybe I install all of the upper part's of the chain pumps and leave the hoods off. Believe Greg posted a photo showing one of the swan ships with this set up and thought that might be a good ideal on Montagu. Gary
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tlevine got a reaction from paulsutcliffe in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
Having heard Mr. Excitement got his picture posted, Sadie got jealous and tried to give me her best "I'm excited" or is that "Feed me" look.
I have applied the finish to the deck, hatches/coamings and inner hull up to two (scale) feet above the upper deck clamp. I am a little disappointed that the holly turned so yellow but there is still a reasonable contrast between it and the boxwood waterway. On the other hand, the cherry on the hatch coamings really pops. The last picture shows the change in the color of the boxwood with the finish applied and sanded with 400 grit.
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tlevine got a reaction from Elmer Cornish in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
Having heard Mr. Excitement got his picture posted, Sadie got jealous and tried to give me her best "I'm excited" or is that "Feed me" look.
I have applied the finish to the deck, hatches/coamings and inner hull up to two (scale) feet above the upper deck clamp. I am a little disappointed that the holly turned so yellow but there is still a reasonable contrast between it and the boxwood waterway. On the other hand, the cherry on the hatch coamings really pops. The last picture shows the change in the color of the boxwood with the finish applied and sanded with 400 grit.
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tlevine got a reaction from Elmer Cornish in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
I have constructed all of the upper deck beams and glued them temporarily in place. Most of the deck beams are directly above the lower deck beams. Six of the beams are offset either fore or aft, some for obvious reasons (like a mast being in the way) and others for reasons I am sure I will figure out later. Once I mark the centerline and carling locations, I will remove the beams so I can finish the lower deck.
The Swan class had one set of sleepers. These are large knees that attach to the aft cant frames and filling transoms with 1" bolts. These are made by cutting out templates to the rough shape and then sanding them to the correct shape. As they are set at an angle, the two faces are not perpendicular to the sides.
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tlevine got a reaction from paulsutcliffe in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
There are two treenails at each intersection. As suggested in TFFM, I impressed a dimple in the wood with a very sharp point and then used a pencil to highlight the dimple. The pictures show the main hatch cover prior to treenailing and the aft hatch cover completed. They still need to be sanded down on the undersurface to the correct depth on top to match the curvature of the deck. If I sand some of the treenails off in the process, they are easily redone.
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tlevine got a reaction from Captain Poison in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
Having heard Mr. Excitement got his picture posted, Sadie got jealous and tried to give me her best "I'm excited" or is that "Feed me" look.
I have applied the finish to the deck, hatches/coamings and inner hull up to two (scale) feet above the upper deck clamp. I am a little disappointed that the holly turned so yellow but there is still a reasonable contrast between it and the boxwood waterway. On the other hand, the cherry on the hatch coamings really pops. The last picture shows the change in the color of the boxwood with the finish applied and sanded with 400 grit.
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tlevine reacted to Maury S in 18th Century Longboat by Maury - FINISHED - Model Shipways
The pintles and gudgeon blackened and the rudder is installed. The tiller is now removed to protect it from breakage. The dowel provided in the kit for the mast has a huge bend. No good for anything. Time to put those Admiralty Masting Workshop lessons to good use. A center-line is established on two opposite sides. The proper mast diameter is marked at the ends and three intermediate points on both sides and a good sharp chisel is put to work. Once the two sides were tapered, the end and intermediate marks were put on the cut faces, lined-out and the remaining two sides chiseled to the lines. This brings the mast to the correct taper and completely square at all points. Then the stick is lined-out for cutting to eight-sided (7 -10 - 7 ratio) using tick strips. Then it went into the chiseling jig and the four-sided stick becomes 8-sided. Here you can see the eight-sided stick next to the dowel supplied in the kit. Then a series of 80 - 220 grit sand paper rounds it out, taking care to protect the shoulder at the upper 1/4 of the mast. A tenon was cut to fit the mast step, sheaves drilled and it was installed just for a good fit. The photo shows the mast a bit thick, so I'll use the caliper to verify the diameters. Now to work on the iron work.
Maury
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tlevine got a reaction from derebek in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
Having heard Mr. Excitement got his picture posted, Sadie got jealous and tried to give me her best "I'm excited" or is that "Feed me" look.
I have applied the finish to the deck, hatches/coamings and inner hull up to two (scale) feet above the upper deck clamp. I am a little disappointed that the holly turned so yellow but there is still a reasonable contrast between it and the boxwood waterway. On the other hand, the cherry on the hatch coamings really pops. The last picture shows the change in the color of the boxwood with the finish applied and sanded with 400 grit.
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tlevine got a reaction from Jason in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
Having heard Mr. Excitement got his picture posted, Sadie got jealous and tried to give me her best "I'm excited" or is that "Feed me" look.
I have applied the finish to the deck, hatches/coamings and inner hull up to two (scale) feet above the upper deck clamp. I am a little disappointed that the holly turned so yellow but there is still a reasonable contrast between it and the boxwood waterway. On the other hand, the cherry on the hatch coamings really pops. The last picture shows the change in the color of the boxwood with the finish applied and sanded with 400 grit.
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tlevine got a reaction from Wishmaster in Bracera by Wishmaster - FINISHED - scale 1:20
Elmir, I am not sure what linen oil is...maybe linseed oil? From personal experience, I have had the experience of bleeding as a result of the finish being applied. I hope you do not have any problems.
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tlevine got a reaction from Padeen in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
Having heard Mr. Excitement got his picture posted, Sadie got jealous and tried to give me her best "I'm excited" or is that "Feed me" look.
I have applied the finish to the deck, hatches/coamings and inner hull up to two (scale) feet above the upper deck clamp. I am a little disappointed that the holly turned so yellow but there is still a reasonable contrast between it and the boxwood waterway. On the other hand, the cherry on the hatch coamings really pops. The last picture shows the change in the color of the boxwood with the finish applied and sanded with 400 grit.
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tlevine got a reaction from mtaylor in Bracera by Wishmaster - FINISHED - scale 1:20
Before you go any farther with the deck, make a mock-up off the model and then apply a coat of finish. If there is going to be any bleeding, it will show up then.
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tlevine got a reaction from jaerschen in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
Having heard Mr. Excitement got his picture posted, Sadie got jealous and tried to give me her best "I'm excited" or is that "Feed me" look.
I have applied the finish to the deck, hatches/coamings and inner hull up to two (scale) feet above the upper deck clamp. I am a little disappointed that the holly turned so yellow but there is still a reasonable contrast between it and the boxwood waterway. On the other hand, the cherry on the hatch coamings really pops. The last picture shows the change in the color of the boxwood with the finish applied and sanded with 400 grit.
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tlevine got a reaction from PeteB in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
Daniel, isopropyl alcohol keeps us all out of trouble! And if it is too late for that...then it's time for they ethyl alcolhol instead.
I have built the ladder from the lower deck to the aft platform. This is the last structure to make before starting work on the lower deck furniture. I have used the pattern from TFFM. The slots in the stiles for the risers were made with the table saw. I have a 0.16" kerf slitting blade which is just wide enough for the risers and used that to make the mortises in the stiles. A coat of finish was applied before gluing it in place.
Although I am pleased with completing this part of the build, Mr. Excitement (aka Cocoa) is less than thrilled.
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tlevine got a reaction from paulsutcliffe in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
Daniel, isopropyl alcohol keeps us all out of trouble! And if it is too late for that...then it's time for they ethyl alcolhol instead.
I have built the ladder from the lower deck to the aft platform. This is the last structure to make before starting work on the lower deck furniture. I have used the pattern from TFFM. The slots in the stiles for the risers were made with the table saw. I have a 0.16" kerf slitting blade which is just wide enough for the risers and used that to make the mortises in the stiles. A coat of finish was applied before gluing it in place.
Although I am pleased with completing this part of the build, Mr. Excitement (aka Cocoa) is less than thrilled.
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tlevine got a reaction from Elmer Cornish in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
Daniel, isopropyl alcohol keeps us all out of trouble! And if it is too late for that...then it's time for they ethyl alcolhol instead.
I have built the ladder from the lower deck to the aft platform. This is the last structure to make before starting work on the lower deck furniture. I have used the pattern from TFFM. The slots in the stiles for the risers were made with the table saw. I have a 0.16" kerf slitting blade which is just wide enough for the risers and used that to make the mortises in the stiles. A coat of finish was applied before gluing it in place.
Although I am pleased with completing this part of the build, Mr. Excitement (aka Cocoa) is less than thrilled.
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tlevine got a reaction from 4whelr in Bracera by Wishmaster - FINISHED - scale 1:20
Before you go any farther with the deck, make a mock-up off the model and then apply a coat of finish. If there is going to be any bleeding, it will show up then.
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tlevine got a reaction from Jeronimo in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
I have constructed all of the upper deck beams and glued them temporarily in place. Most of the deck beams are directly above the lower deck beams. Six of the beams are offset either fore or aft, some for obvious reasons (like a mast being in the way) and others for reasons I am sure I will figure out later. Once I mark the centerline and carling locations, I will remove the beams so I can finish the lower deck.
The Swan class had one set of sleepers. These are large knees that attach to the aft cant frames and filling transoms with 1" bolts. These are made by cutting out templates to the rough shape and then sanding them to the correct shape. As they are set at an angle, the two faces are not perpendicular to the sides.
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tlevine got a reaction from Elmer Cornish in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
There are two treenails at each intersection. As suggested in TFFM, I impressed a dimple in the wood with a very sharp point and then used a pencil to highlight the dimple. The pictures show the main hatch cover prior to treenailing and the aft hatch cover completed. They still need to be sanded down on the undersurface to the correct depth on top to match the curvature of the deck. If I sand some of the treenails off in the process, they are easily redone.
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tlevine reacted to Maury S in 18th Century Longboat by Maury - FINISHED - Model Shipways
I finished the iron work for the main mast at the thwart. Just shaping and attach with CA. You can see the hinge work for the cabinet to the left (too much reflection). I soldered a piece of brass wire to a thin brass strip, Then cut pieces to size from the larger sample. The seats were trimmed and installed for fit. Then the were taken of for 3 coats of paint, hinges glued in place and re-installed. Next the knees were trimmed to shape and painted with several coats and installed (along with the mast step). The knee at the bow needs another two coats of paint.
Maury
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tlevine got a reaction from harvey1847 in HMS Atalanta 1775 by tlevine - FINISHED - 1:48 scale - from TFFM plans
I have constructed all of the upper deck beams and glued them temporarily in place. Most of the deck beams are directly above the lower deck beams. Six of the beams are offset either fore or aft, some for obvious reasons (like a mast being in the way) and others for reasons I am sure I will figure out later. Once I mark the centerline and carling locations, I will remove the beams so I can finish the lower deck.
The Swan class had one set of sleepers. These are large knees that attach to the aft cant frames and filling transoms with 1" bolts. These are made by cutting out templates to the rough shape and then sanding them to the correct shape. As they are set at an angle, the two faces are not perpendicular to the sides.
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