tlevine

John and Elia, thank you for your kind comments.  Thanks for all the Likes as well.  A little more has been accomplished this weekend.  I have applied the finish to the pantry.  Beam set 14 has been installed and beam set 15 is in progess.  The middle carlings are larger to support the capstain partner.  Unlike the carlings for the mast partners, this piece is installed like a regular carling (ie from on top) rather than under the beam.
 
 

 
 

The main topsail sheet bitt pins are located within the upper well.  These insert onto the aft face of the lower deck beam and there is a score for the upper deck beam.  Once the well has been secured in place it will be difficult to access this area so I started them now.  The pins are 9" square above the upper deck beam.  Below that they taper on the aft face.  They are perpendicular to the keel.  Rather than make the entire bitt now and risk damage, I only made the pins up to the upper deck beam.  To maintain correct alignment I glued on two temporary cross bars away from where the cross-piece and gallows will be placed.  Holes were drilled through the score for the upper deck beam and into the beam.  Steel pins are holding the pins in place.  Holes have also been cut in the hatch cover for the main jeer bitt pins.  The pictures show the bitt pins before and after the upper well was installed.
 

 

I have made and installed the opposed lodging knees.  Since I did not go into any detail on their construction for the lower deck, let me demonstrate how I made them.  First, I make a template of the knee and saw it out a bit oversized.  The thickness of the blank is about 2.5 times the normal thickness to allow for the curvatures.  I then mark on the blank the areas that will be removed. I use a combination of my Preac saw, Dremel sanding discs and sandpaper to remove the excess material.  The knees are given a final shaping and the bolts are added prior to installation. 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 

Beam set 7 includes the opening for the fore hatch.  These carlings are a little larger than the standard ones.  As I am building the lower deck structures as I move aft, it was time to build the aft sail room.  The fore sail room is one of the small rooms on the port side near beam set 4.  This was a fun little structure to make.  The lateral walls have louvers to allow ventilation into the room.  I do not own a mill so the mortises for the louvers were made with an 11 blade.  On Atalanta, the door into this room is a slider, not a hinged door.  Consequently, the door must be made wider than the opening and it will be on the outside wall of the sail room.  There is a pillar on the inside wall precluding placing the door there.  Not having built a sliding door before, I went over to the local stable and looked at my horse's stall door.  The latch is a L-shaped bolt on the door with a U-shaped piece of metal on the door frame to receive the bolt.  The bolt measured 3" x 4" x 3/8".  This would require making a u-shaped channel 0.01" square.  Needless to say, this is well beyond my skill set so I have a flat piece of metal on the door frame representing it instead.  Decking was placed under the assembly on the starboard side.  The last two pictures show the sail room assembly before and after a coat of finish.
 

 

 

 

 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 40 – Aft Half Frames 1
 
As in the forward section, the aft half frames lie between the cant frames and the aftermost of the full square frames.  They bolt to the vertical side of the deadwood and are square to the line of the keel.  When installed they will be hard to distinguish from the full frames that rest on the keel.  However when the horizontal bolts are installed the difference will be more obvious.
 
I installed the first of these following the method used on the forward frames.  As shown in the first picture these, although separate, were fabricated as a single assembly held together with temporary cross-spalls.  This assembly would then be slipped over the deadwood at the correct height.  The breadth at the top is held by the spalls and alignment set using the center string line.
 

 
The next picture shows the erection method.
 

 
The sides are contained by the two clamped squares located at the line on the base drawing.  The center of the spall is marked and aligned with the string.  The height on both sides is set using the vertical caliper based on heights taken from the drawing.  This worked well except that gluing and accurately clamping at the deadwood was a bit involved.  I soon adopted the simpler method shown in the next picture.
 

 
In this method the two frame halves are installed separately.  The ribbands at the planksheer were extended back into the cant frames.  These ribbands are then used to set the height and breadth of the frames at the top, where they are pinned tightly through the ribband as was done for the full frames.  This method roughly mimics actual shipyard practice.
 

 
This turned out to be a very much simpler method with equal accuracy.  In the next picture a half frame has been lightly clamped at the bottom and the frame is held so the top of the aft top member is at the top of the ribband. The ribband has been marked with the joint line of the frame for fore and aft alignment.  A pin hole is being drilled through in the picture.
 

 
Once pinned at the top it is an easy matter to rotate the frame to apply glue to the face, then position and clamp it in place by one of the methods shown above.  This process is almost too simple.  However, it does depend on an accurate ribband line.
 
To help assure this, a spreader was inserted and pinned at frame 33, about midway in the remaining open space.  Sized from the pattern for 33, this helps maintain the correct curve of the ribband breadth.  This spreader and two measured strips are shown in the next picture.
 

 
The strips are loose and were merely used to check the breadth at the last full frame and the last installed half frame.
 
The last picture shows the hull at present.  The remaining gap in the framing should soon be filled.
 

 
Apart from the clutter of my workshop in the background, this picture gives an idea of the length of this hull – and of the L/B ratio.  This is one long slim ship -  roughly 240 feet long by about 43 feet broad – about 6/1.  Naiad:  3.7/1.
 
 
 Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 38 – Stern Timbering 2
 
After setting the eight stern timbers, chocks were installed between them in scores at the “knuckle” where the timbers change direction upwards.
 

 
This knuckle gradually smoothes out into a curve in the cant frames section.  The assembly has not been sanded at this stage.  Some sanding has been done in the next picture, which shows all of chocks installed.
 

 
With this work complete, the cant framing was continued forward.  The next picture shows the method used for final beveling the frames before setting.
 

 
The first step in this process was to rough shape the frames on the disk and spindle sander.  Fine cut rasps and a #0 cut half round file were used to trim the frames right back to the lines on each face of the patterns on each side.  All this work could be done by hand, but the power tools save time.
 
In the next picture frame 47 has been installed on the starboard side and its port counterpart is being fitted on the port side using a template.
 

 
These templates were very easy to make by creating a view of the three profiles on the CAD worksheet for the cant frame.  They were then printed on heavy presentation paper and cut out with a knife.  This eliminated pasting to heavier stock and cutting on the scroll saw.  That was the method I had used previously.
 
The next picture shows the gluing up of the above frame.
 

 
The stern template and two clamps hold the frame in position.  In the next picture the next frame, #46 is clamped and glued on the starboard side. 
 

 
The next picture shows a closeup of the foot of the frame and the clamping.
 

 
The wet areas on the wood are from washing off the excess glue. 
 
In the next picture a knuckle chock has been installed between frames 48 and 47 on the starboard side and its counterpart is being glued in on the port side.
 

 
And so it goes.
 
 Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 32 – Frame Alignment/Fairing
 
The aft half and cant frames are bolted to the sides of the keelson/deadwood, so these cannot be installed until that assembly is in place.  The keelson comes first, but to install that it is necessary to have the inboard faces of at least the floor timbers well faired.
 
The first step was to check and, if necessary, adjust the alignment of the installed square frames.  The first picture shows this being done with a batten.
 

 
It can be seen in this picture that there is a gap over the center frame.  To correct this, the pin holding the top of the frame to the ribband was removed and the frame pushed downward slightly on this side to adjust it outward.  A new pinhole was drilled while holding the corrected position – as shown in the next photo.
 

 
All the frames aft of 0, on both sides were checked and five or six were adjusted in this way before proceeding with the next steps.
 
The outsides of the frames between the floor heads and the ribbands were then faired as shown in the next picture. 
 

 
In this picture a cabinet scraper is being used on this part of the hull.  This tool has some advantages for this.  First, it works with the grain so sanding out cross grain scratches is reduced.  More importantly, it allows you to easily see when the frames have been leveled out – or which frames are out of line.  Pre beveling of the frames before setting greatly reduces the amount of work in this step.  No cross grain sanding was necessary in these areas.
 
With the outside of the frames faired out, the floors could be faired to receive the keelson.  This fairing was done out to the floor heads.  A rotary tool with a flapper wheel as shown in the next picture was used for some of this, so taking this fairing out at least to the floor heads is advisable before installing the keelson.
 

 
This tool also has the advantage that it sands with the grain.  In the next picture the fairness is being checked at the floor heads.  The frames above the floor heads are still a bit rough.
 

 
Finally the joint face with the keelson is leveled out as shown below.
 

 
All this work was done in the forebody earlier to install the forward part of the keelson and the forward deadwood.  The next picture shows the first section of the lower tier of the aft keelson installed.  Copper wire bolts through every other frame have been inserted through into the keel and epoxied.  The frames are now well secured.
 

 
The next section of the upper keelson tier is ready to be installed.  The dark areas are still damp from washing off the epoxy for the bolts with isopropanol.
 
The central model support bolt hole comes through the aft end of the keelson section in this picture.  The next task will be to cut a mortise around that hole to insert a nut – next time.
 
Ed

Hi everyone,
 
I have started construction on the stern. The first images show constructing the transom at the quarterdeck into which the vertical timbers will dovetail. When I taped it in place in the third image, I realized that there were too many parts in motion, and I would need a jig to keep it all aligned.
 
So the next images show a jig at the location of the stern lights. The most important thing to keep straight in this construction is the equal spacing of the stern lights.  The jig represents the windows themselves, with the correct round up and round aft, and the locations of the vertical timbers. I then cut slots for the timbers into which I could locate them while shaping them. I did not have to work very hard to create the right bevel; I just filed the aft faces flush to the jig.
 
You will also see that I initially mounted the jig on a right angle fixture over a slab of granite. This allowed me to use a flat, parallel surface from which I could construct the radiating lines for the vertical timbers with a drafting triangle. Once I found the correct angle on one side, I could flip the triangle and draw exactly the same angle on the opposite side. That kept everything perfectly symmetrical from the center. I initially tried to do this while the jig was located on this ship itself, and there were too many things in the way.
 
Still lots to do...
 
Mark
 

Drift Rails
 
The Drift Rails are the uppermost ones. I used dark Swiss Pear as they are a continuation of the Planksheers in the Waist :
 

 

 

 
They cut in over the Catheads :
 

 
  Danny

...

All hands on deck.............................he i said aaaalllllll haaaaands
 
After I make the many hooks, eyes and blocks (for the guns) have already spots before the eyes, was a small relaxation törn due for the eyes
 
Therefore, I once make another figure from the bulwark ornament.

The images come in the series of steps.
 
After the figure was transferred to paper and glued to the bone support, it was sawn on the contours.
 
And now have fun with the pictures:
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Have fun

Hi friends,
cannons for assembly on the Gun-Deck prepared.
Karl
 
 
 
T e i l  4 1

Dear friends,

thank you very much for your compliments and kind words, I appreciate them a lot.

Today I took a video to show you the tutorial, how I make the belaying pins. All is handmade, cause I have not any special tools.
The pins are solid enough, even if they are made of two parts.  
 

 
 
And what's new on RC.....
I have finished spiral staircase - it is made of paper and covered with foils to imitate wooden look.
 







 
Kind regards
Doris

Current part of build
 








 
Enjoy the pics and have a great time.
Best regards
Doris

Keel blocks ... Not processed after casting.

Yeah John, I'm full of them (it??? ).
 
Here are a couple of pics of the Channels fitted to the Port side :
 

 

 
 
Sheer Rails
 
The Channels intersect the Sheer Rails, which is why the channels had to be fitted first :
 

 
An unusual way to hold the end of the sheer rail whilst the glue dried - clamps were ineffective in this situation, so I've temporarily glued a piece of scrap to the end of the channel :
 

 

 

 
  Danny

Hi all, back from my holidays again .
 
Channels
 
I've made the Foremast Channels and the Stools that are fitted just aft of them. They are tapered outboard from 4 1/2" to 2 3/4" (real size) on their bottom face. There are two swivelling ringbolts in each channel - they fit through a small plate on the underside which I made from thin brass shim material and blackened :
 

 

 

 

 
I've cut into the Sheer Strake for added support on the inboard edge. This is only a dry fit so far :
 

 

 
To align the slots for the Shrouds I rigged up a dummy mast and used a piece of thread to ensure they wouldn't foul the gunports and sweep ports. A molding will be added to cover the shrouds after they are fitted. The dummy mast is vertical, not on the angle it seems in the pic (the ship itself is tilted a bit ) :
 

 
  Danny

Joe, Colin and Antony,  Thanks for the kind words!
 
Mark
 
 
That would be the start of a "really bad day".  
 
Here is the framing for the canopy. In the first picture you can see how it
sets into the slots cut into the bulkhead.
 

 

Thanks Ben and Druxey.
 
Well the swivel guns are drying and the chain plates are all completed so I've started
building the optional mortar housing. This is the assembly that would cover the mortar
to protect it. I have to make the assembly removable as I want to be able to display it
with the mortar raised or stowed.
 
Here are the transverse bulkheads and the mortar carriage set in place for perspective.
 

 

 

 
Here you see the strong back connected to the transverse bulkhead as well as the fore
and aft bulkheads. A notch has been cut into these pieces for the canopy and side
covers to set into.
 

 

 
 
 

Thank you for the kind words Paddy.
 
Also thanks to everyone for stopping in and all the likes.
 
The deadeyes and chain plates have been completed on the port side. I left
the pin head unpainted in this picture so you could see how it simulates
the bolt head. I just have to touch them up a bit, adjust the deadeyes position
and then it’s on to the starboard side.
 

Hi all, Thanks for stopping by and all the likes!
 
It’s really nice having a couple of days off with no obligations. You can really get some fun
stuff done. I assembled the main mortar carriage. It was pretty straight forward and like
the deck and beams below, very thick and rugged.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I have held off on the cap square and hinge until I have a cannon to match it to.
 
Now looking ahead to the chain plates here are two pictures showing how the plans depict them.
 

 

 
My question to you is would they be like that or would they be “links” like I did on the Confederacy?
 

 
Thanks
 
 

Thank you gentlemen for your kind words.
 
Today I will show to the gun ports lids a special detail.
The lids in the area of ​​bugs are doubled for protection from the anchor with planks.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
To be continued ...

After cleaning up the shipyard a bit, here goes....   New framing wood has been ordered but due to Jeff at Hobbymill's schedule it won't be here until late (very late) April.  I'm planning on using up my existing stock of swiss pear, ebony, pear, silver maple, and cherry and maybe some boxwood if I see fit. 
 
At this stage, I'm poring over the plans and notating such things as wale, gunport, and deck clamp locations on the individual frame drawings as I'm planning on putting some reference points on the frames physically as I cut them.  This should solve some of my previous issues..  With 60 frames, this is going to take a bit.
 
I have a new build board laid out and prepped but not cut.  The frame reference board is ready to go.
 
I'm still making a final decision on whether to stick with cherry or go with boxwood for the keel, stem, and stern items.   Version 1.0 sits forlornly in another part of the shipyard waiting for various bits and pieces to be cannibalized.  I'll be re-using my old fabricated measuring tools and making some new ones.
 
Hopefully, by the time the framing stock arrives, all the plans will be annotated and scanned, all the bits and pieces from V 1.0 will be cannibalized, and bunches of new bits will be fabricated and then ready and waiting. 
 
It's time to do this beast right and proper... and to have some fun doing it.
 
Footnotes to the build:  I'm adding to this as I discover things.
The Hahn plans lack a lot of details so additional sources will be needed.
    a) Hahn's "Ships of the American Revolution" is a must to understand the building method.
    b)  I also recommend the "La Belle Poule" monograph from ANCRE.  This has period bits and pieces along with the proper rigging as Hahn used La Venus which has pointed out to me as being from a later period.
 
 

Neptune, Poseidon, Nij

Richard, there are two issues here.  First, which woods are best suited to model building?  Second, which wood species look good together and (maybe) simulate the appearance of the prototype?  As far as the first question...any reasonably hard wood with minimal grain will work fine.  There are many builders who insist basswood is fine to use for hull planking.  Personally, I prefer to use hardwoods.  They cut cleaner, sand better and are more resistant to minor damage during the building process.  They, however, are more expensive and do not take paint as well as basswood.  Pear, swiss pear, costello boxwood, pau marfin, holly and satinwood come to mind for the lower hull planking.  For the wales and upperworks, wood with natural color (apple or cherry) or dyed/stained wood gives a nice contrast.  Check out the build logs or the gallery for a palate you find pleasing and contact the builder to find out what woods were employed.