garyshipwright

Hi Every one, Its been awhile since my last update and most probably figure I fell off the ends of the world. Well the misses sent me a life line and  finally went back to doing some thing on her. I sort of been stuck  on the cables and how the messenger was routed. Ben from Ropes of Scale help me on the cable and Druxey gave me the ideal about the snatch block.  So  I went to work on making a snatch block for the messenger using Lee's measurement, from his  book The Masting and Rigging of English ships. It didn't come out to bad But I leave that up to you. 

Thank you druxey and your very welcome. 

Hi Every one, Its been awhile since my last update and most probably figure I fell off the ends of the world. Well the misses sent me a life line and  finally went back to doing some thing on her. I sort of been stuck  on the cables and how the messenger was routed. Ben from Ropes of Scale help me on the cable and Druxey gave me the ideal about the snatch block.  So  I went to work on making a snatch block for the messenger using Lee's measurement, from his  book The Masting and Rigging of English ships. It didn't come out to bad But I leave that up to you. 

Hi Every one, Its been awhile since my last update and most probably figure I fell off the ends of the world. Well the misses sent me a life line and  finally went back to doing some thing on her. I sort of been stuck  on the cables and how the messenger was routed. Ben from Ropes of Scale help me on the cable and Druxey gave me the ideal about the snatch block.  So  I went to work on making a snatch block for the messenger using Lee's measurement, from his  book The Masting and Rigging of English ships. It didn't come out to bad But I leave that up to you. 

Hi Every one, Its been awhile since my last update and most probably figure I fell off the ends of the world. Well the misses sent me a life line and  finally went back to doing some thing on her. I sort of been stuck  on the cables and how the messenger was routed. Ben from Ropes of Scale help me on the cable and Druxey gave me the ideal about the snatch block.  So  I went to work on making a snatch block for the messenger using Lee's measurement, from his  book The Masting and Rigging of English ships. It didn't come out to bad But I leave that up to you. 

Hi Every one, Its been awhile since my last update and most probably figure I fell off the ends of the world. Well the misses sent me a life line and  finally went back to doing some thing on her. I sort of been stuck  on the cables and how the messenger was routed. Ben from Ropes of Scale help me on the cable and Druxey gave me the ideal about the snatch block.  So  I went to work on making a snatch block for the messenger using Lee's measurement, from his  book The Masting and Rigging of English ships. It didn't come out to bad But I leave that up to you. 

Hi Every one, Its been awhile since my last update and most probably figure I fell off the ends of the world. Well the misses sent me a life line and  finally went back to doing some thing on her. I sort of been stuck  on the cables and how the messenger was routed. Ben from Ropes of Scale help me on the cable and Druxey gave me the ideal about the snatch block.  So  I went to work on making a snatch block for the messenger using Lee's measurement, from his  book The Masting and Rigging of English ships. It didn't come out to bad But I leave that up to you. 

Hi Every one, Its been awhile since my last update and most probably figure I fell off the ends of the world. Well the misses sent me a life line and  finally went back to doing some thing on her. I sort of been stuck  on the cables and how the messenger was routed. Ben from Ropes of Scale help me on the cable and Druxey gave me the ideal about the snatch block.  So  I went to work on making a snatch block for the messenger using Lee's measurement, from his  book The Masting and Rigging of English ships. It didn't come out to bad But I leave that up to you. 

Hi Every one, Its been awhile since my last update and most probably figure I fell off the ends of the world. Well the misses sent me a life line and  finally went back to doing some thing on her. I sort of been stuck  on the cables and how the messenger was routed. Ben from Ropes of Scale help me on the cable and Druxey gave me the ideal about the snatch block.  So  I went to work on making a snatch block for the messenger using Lee's measurement, from his  book The Masting and Rigging of English ships. It didn't come out to bad But I leave that up to you. 

Hi Every one, Its been awhile since my last update and most probably figure I fell off the ends of the world. Well the misses sent me a life line and  finally went back to doing some thing on her. I sort of been stuck  on the cables and how the messenger was routed. Ben from Ropes of Scale help me on the cable and Druxey gave me the ideal about the snatch block.  So  I went to work on making a snatch block for the messenger using Lee's measurement, from his  book The Masting and Rigging of English ships. It didn't come out to bad But I leave that up to you. 

Outstanding Piotrek. What a wonderful build and the detail is out of this world. Thank you for giving us the chance to look at and enjoy your build on a very well built ship model. Gary

Thanks guys. for all the "likes"!
 
I needed to figure out a way to make the hatch cover boards. I planned on using boxwood for the color contrast. The boards are about 5/64" thick with a very slight curve to them that matches the curved coamings. But bending the curve and getting the precise length right cutting strip stock was going to fail! Too hard to get consistency in the four boards. Here's what I did:

I cut up a boxwood blank the fit into the recess where the boards sit. It was thick enough so it stood just proud of the highest point on the curved coamings. Then I traced the coaming top lines onto the 4 edges of the blank. I used double sided carpet tape to tape the blank to a block of wood, keeping it perpendicular to the table of my disc sander, and parallel to the disk's face. Using my variable speed disk sander on LOW speed, I sanded the curve into the blank!

Once I was satisfied with the curve, I took the blank and simulated the four boards by scoring them in and darkening the score lines with very thin pencil lead. It worked out well!
 

Thanks, guys for the "likes"!
 
Here is where I am. I've got all the deck beams notched and have started installing them from aft forward. Because the beams sit in notches in the deck clamps, they can't move. Fitting the hanging and lodging knees is really finicky if you want a tight fit. I'll add the carlings and ledges and finish the deck up to the forward end of the mortar pit. That's where the hardest part of the deck starts: fitting the beam arms. I cut them generously and left them a bit thick. They are so long that I have to account for the deck camber.

Thanks,  Jean-Paul,  and thanks to all for the "likes"!
 A friend and collaborator, Joseph, is doing 3-D drawings of the plans and we are making changes to simplify construction for those less experienced.  This includes eliminating the rise in the frames moving aft as well as eliminating the narrowing of the hull moving aft.  He also drew up the deck such that all the beams, carlings, ledges and lodging knees were the same thickness (pictured). I decided to use stopped dadoes on the beams to seat the carlings.  Thus the carlings would be thinner than the beams.  I'll keep the ledges and knees the same thickness as the carlings, though, to simplify construction.  I think it will look fines.
Rather than use a razor saw, chisels and a hobby knife to cut the dadoes for the carlings, I looked for an easier way.  what I did was cut the dadoes all the way through the beams at a depth of 1/16".  I then milled some 1/16" pear stock to the width I needed to give me  stopped dadoes.  These were glued in place and sanded smooth.  Very easy!
 
 
 

Thanks, Jean-Paul!
 
The next step is to cut out the mortar pit beams.  These support the pit deck itself, and in turn, rest on the upper support beams of the shell room.  There are notches (really shallow dadoes) for both on each beam.
I milled up some 3/8" thick swiss pear and glued the beam templates to the wood with rubber cement.  They were then cut out using the scroll saw.  The mortar pit boundary timbers fit in the dadoes on the upper surface of each beam (red arrows).  It's important that these line up exactly so I cut the beams a little long and snuck up on the final length using the disk sander.  There should be no side-to-side play in the beams when fitted properly.  Then I cut the dadoes on the under surfaces of the beams (green arrows) after marking each one individually so the fit on the upper support beams is precise.  The beams have poly but are not yet glued in place.

Work on the shell room continues.  I made the upper support beams out of boxwood and the blocking timbers between them of pear.  They're glued into place, but not poly'ed yet.  Once that's done, I will individually fit each of the 6 mortar pit beams into their notches on the clamps.
 

Thanks, Grant!
 
I glued the six shell racks to the lower support beams.  The placement needs to be precise because two more layers of structure sit on top of the shell racks before the mortar pit floor.  The plans call for the racks to be pinned in place.  I thought this would be too difficult to do precisely so I used a couple of home made jigs to align the shell racks while the epoxy I used dried.  They're not going anywhere!

Hi pm. I do believe that the showing of the eyebolts on the outside were a french/continental preference. But am also not sure that this was that, a preference. When you go through the photo's of the models in  the Musee de la Marine collection, Historic Ship models you will see that most  of them do not have the through bolts on the outside just like the English models in the NMM.  Doesn't mean they didn't do it but each country did things a little different in their ship building. In one of the contract that I have, and was written in 1782 for a 74 gun ship, which I believe  was also used for the Bellerophon, has information on how the eyebolts were installed for the gun ports.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                 To have four Ring, and two Eye bolts to each gun port with bolts of 1 3/8 inches diameter two of the ring bolts to be place in the second timber from the port, the rings 5 inches diameter in the clear, the eye sufficiently open for the tackle hooks. To have sufficient number of ring bolts on the deck for the guns, with bolts of  1 1/8 inches diameter and for the stoppers with bolts of 1 5/8 inches diameter the diameter of the rings of the stopper bolts 6 1/2 inches in the clear with short snug eyes, let well down into the deck and the ends of the bolts to be clenched.                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    To have two eye bolts over each port for lashing the guns of 1 1/4 and to be placed as high as possible , to give the better room for securing the muzzle of the gun on the clamp, the eyes to be 2 5/8 inches in the clear, the ring and eye bolts to be well forelocked and so well let in, as  only to let the ring have play, the bolts that forelock with out board to have short thick points and fore lock holes that the rings may be let into the wood in belaying them.                                                                                                                                                                   It is  your model and if you want to show the through bolts,  that is total up to you and others. It is a nice detail but I think I will wait  on the next one that I do. This is a little late  but maybe it might help the next person. Gary                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                              

Thanks to everyone for the kind comments.
 
Small update:
Partitions and deck beams installed.
Karl
 
Part 15
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Final assembly of the carvings after the reconstruction work
on the window openings and gun ports.
 
Karl
 
Part 13

 
 
 

Update from the frame construction.
 
Karl
 
PART 7
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Complete  new building ,
after a mistake on my part in the construction
of the frames.
 
Many thanks to Mike for the correction of the frames,
without him I would not have been able to make the
intended open frame.
 
Next, I will start with the bug, (Hawse Timbers) and
straighten and grind the previus  part.
 
Karl
 
 

Completion of the model.
 
During the construction report, I did without explanation  / working methods etc. ,
because I thing the photos say more than a lot of words.
All pictures during the construction phase can also be seen on my hompage.
 
Many thanks to Mike for helping with the construction of the frames.
Thanks again to everyone for the kind comments and likes.
 
Karl
 
Part 26 / Finish
 

Thank you for the kind comments.
 
Update
Rudder system and various railings installed.
I saved the most difficult section, the bow section, 
at the end.
I will not install the cannons on this model,
but the eight gun-carriages (Lafette) are mounted.
 
Karl
 

Hi Siggi. I gain a lot of information when going through your log and really enjoy what the crew is doing, which is a really outstanding job. Watching what your doing really help's my crew carry on with building Montague/Alfred.   Look forward to the next job that your crew under takes in the coming future.