gsdpic
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Everything posted by gsdpic
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The cabin sides and cockpit coaming sides are two laser cut parts, one for each side of the boat. Here I am trying to bend the pieces. I first soaked the front half in hot water for a while (15-20 minutes) then carefully clamped it to a small sauce pan while also applying more heat with a hair dryer. The sauce pan is obviously not an exact match for the curve of the front of the cabin but it is a lot closer than a straight line. I'll probably let it dry over night then unclamp it and see what I have. Assuming it works I'll repeat the process for the other end of the pieces to accomplish the curve around the back of the cockpit.
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Another quick update. I've completed the deck planking and did a rough cut around the outside and inside edges. I did a little sanding of the outside edges but have more to do. Oh, I also cut out the hole for the mast as you can see.
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Thanks Glen and Jacques for the comments/compliments. And yes it is a good size model. Even without the bowsprit in front and the gaff hanging off the back, the hull as shown is right at 2 feet long and about 7.5 inches across. I've begun the relatively quick job of planking the deck. Obviously everything will need to be trimmed up once I complete it and all the glue dries. As you can see, the planks in the front and middle section do not quite line up. For the middle section, I just cut one piece of wood into a bunch of approx 2 inch sections and that piece of basswood must have been ever so slightly less wide than average. But I don't think it will matter at all once I get the cockpit and coaming installed. I will likely just leave the deck natural, maybe add some wipe on poly for a bit of protection and smoothness. I do kind of struggle with this build. I sometimes think I should do x, y, and z to try to improve on the kit and add some details or whatever, then I look at my stash of car kits and think maybe I'd rather finish this and work on them. So for now I am sticking to straight out of the box.
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Oh man, that looks good and I am jealous. I recently bought an FDM 3D printer (Anycubic Kobra 3) to get started with 3d printing but fully intend to also get a resin printer at some point as well. Seems they each have their own niche where they are useful. I figured an FDM printer was a better place to start since it seems like less hassle than resin, with no washing and curing needed.
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Make that three votes for the second one. I feel like the Japanese garden base competes with SIB for attention. Either way, like Bob said, great work!
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Ok, I have declared the hull painting done and I have mounted the hull to the baseboard. The baseboard is reused from an abandoned build of the model shipways Niagara. The cradles are included in the Friendship Sloop kit. They are laser cut mahogany which I sanded down a bit to round off the corners and finished with a tung oil finish. Pay no attention to the box in the back left corner of the table. That is definitely not another side project that I started 😁
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Thanks for the patience. I finished the other project I was working on (though as always, tempted to start another) and have been through several iterations of tape and paint, both green and off white. It was tricky to get a decent water line with the shape of the hull (and my technique, no doubt) but I think I am at the "as good as it's gonna get" stage. I'll likely still do a bit of light sanding at some point and then go over everything with a satin clear coat just to unify the finish. Both the green and offwhite are satin but still there are some variations in shininess.
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That's interesting, and unfortunate. I thought the $800 de minimis exemption still applied for stuff from Canada but I guess at least some of what you ordered originated in China and so maybe the Chinese tariff rules applied instead of the Canadian ones. Did UPS provide a detailed breakdown of how they calculated the $61? I have an interest in this and am just trying to figure out how things work now, as there is a Canadian reseller that has a Model Factor Hiro kit (from Japan) that I am interested in. I've not ordered it primarily because of tariff uncertainty, though I have investigated a little bit and believe that the $800 de minimis exemption is still in place for both Canada and Japan.
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When I built my AL Sopwith Camel, some of the pieces of the stand were missing. I filled in the "parts request" from their website and the parts showed up in the mail (to the United States) within a couple weeks. That was back in 2024. See post #77 in the log below. And here is the link to the parts request: https://artesanialatina.net/us/en/p/15-parts-request Just go to their main web page and scroll down to the bottom to see the link. That is what I used. I do now see that the instructions refer to a "national identity card or passport number" but I do not see any field in the form for that and did not have to provide any such thing when I made the request.
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Thanks all for the likes, the comments, and for following along on this quick build. I've now completed the Porsche 911 GT3 RS. Those sharp-eyed among you might notice that there is no carbon fiber on the mirrors. That was a bit of a fail so I just painted the top gloss black and left it at that. Each mirror top half had 3 carbon fiber decals to apply. The first mirror went ok, though the top decal was not very smooth, despite using decal setting solution and a hair dryer to soften it with some heat. I then went on to the second mirror and while using the hair dryer, the blast of air caught the edge of the decal and blew it off the mirror to who-knows-where. I searched around a bit for it but could not find it so at that point gave up on the carbon fiber on the mirrors. Oh well. Otherwise, I am generally pleased with the results. There are still a few minor flaws with the paint work on the body but nothing major. Oh, I also had some problems with the decals on the wheels....there is supposed to be a tiny round decal on the wheel center lock. Two of them came off during assembly so I just painted the top of the center lock black. And now looking at the pictures I see that a third one of those decals went away, so I need to paint that one black too. Oh, did not mean to be that long-winded. Here are the final pictures.
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Thanks for the likes or just stopping by to take a look. She's now down on her own wheels and very lose to completion. Just need to do the mirrors, door handles, wing, and some air deflector thingies behind the wheel. Then try to do any clean up and touch up and take some better photos with the real camera and better lighting set up. One might think the rear view mirrors would be simple but no....each one is 4 pieces and 3 carbon fiber decals. The wing is a bit delicate too, though I have it mostly done.
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Beautiful! I thought the kit wheels in the previous post looked pretty good but the after market ones are a significant improvement. I might need to get a set of those if I ever get around to building my 250 GTO.
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Been working a bit more on the body bits but have continued to put off painting the windows. I need to tackle that soon.
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CA (cyanoacrylate) "super glue"
gsdpic replied to Dr PR's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
I've used the Loctite gel in the fancy applicator bottle to the end of the bottle. For me, the more likely failure is for the glue to take longer and longer to cure after opening the package, as the glue ages. Is Corvallis, Oregon particularly humid? Superglue cures by chemical reaction using moisture in the air. Maybe a particularly humid environment makes it more likely to harden before being used up. -
Thanks for the likes or for just looking in. I've now completed the chassis and put the interior on the chassis. From here on it is all about attaching all the bits to the body and then putting the two together. The trickiest remaining thing is probably masking and painting the windows, as both sides and front and back windows all have some black border to be painted. Other than the windows, I think I have all the painting done, except perhaps some minor details here and there. I added a few more coats of clear to the body and it is looking shinier but have not done any sort of polishing just yet.
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Ok, I sanded down the color coat (just once!) and repainted and it is looking good. Now to mark the waterline, tape it off, and paint the hull with the dark green paint. Haha....I see now some of the test prints from my recently acquired 3d printer in the background. I took this shot by my computer instead of in the modelling room.
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I wouldn't know a George Strait song if it slapped me in the face, but I can see why that song came to mind. Note that I did not say how many iterations of sanding and spraying I was going to do with the color coats. And speaking of that, I finally sprayed on the topsides off white color. The color is not quite as off white as I expected but it will do. And yes those flaws in the finish on the side do bother me a bit so I guess I am not done sanding. Once I am satisfied or tired of it, I'll tape off the water line and repeat with dark green below the water line.
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Very, very nice planking job. That does look like a bit of an odd and tricky shape at the stern.
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Hi Barbara -- I have built the 1/48th scale Bluejacket America. See the link to the build log in my signature. Overall, I was pleased with the contents of the kit and the instructions. For the most part the instructions were adequate though there were places where you had to read between the lines/make stuff up to complete a step. But I did not hit any particular road blocks. But having said that, it is very much an older style kit that leaves a lot up to the builder. As I recall there are no laser cut parts. The keel and stem and stern post were preprinted on bass wood sheets but needed to be cut out. There is no "sub deck", instead you create deck beams that fit across the frames. It is definitely a kit for someone who has some experience and practice. The bluejacket skill level they assign to the kit is basically an 8 on a 9 point scale. Feel free to look at my build log and I hope that will give a good idea of what is involved in building the kit. I will say that it can be built up into a beautiful model.
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Thanks for looking in and hitting the like button. I guess it is time to reveal the exterior color, as I have made progress on that though not finished it. It is....ultraviolet. And yes this was a color available from Porsche on some of their GT3/GT2 models. As mentioned before, I got the paint from Splash paints. I then put on one coat of Tamiya X-22 thinned with Mr Color Leveling Thinner (about 50/50), then put the decals on, then put another thinned coat of X-22 on. I'll probably do another coat or two of the clear and also want to try some polishing as well to try to improve the finish. The bits of masking tape you see are protecting the headliner area which is the same German Gray as the interior. The rear spoiler piece and front nose piece are just temporarily tacked on using a couple dots of white glue.
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Thanks all for the likes. I am now done with the interior, steps 9-14 in the instructions. I plan to now go back to do the chassis, steps 1-8 while also working on the body clear coat and decals. Of course once installed in the body we'll never again have a good view of the interior.
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Thanks for the likes and for looking in. I've been doing some work on the interior, even though that is step 9 - 14 in the instructions. I started out using "German Gray" as the base. That seemed appropriate for a Porsche. I wanted gray instead of black just to make it hide details less. Here's the basic tub with the roll bar. The roll bar on the prototype has a carbon fiber finish, and there is some carbon fiber on the seats. I used a mixture of black and metallic gray to attempt a carbon fiber look. The seats: And finally the dash and center console: I still have some detailing to do on the door panels and the steering wheel, and a few parts....fire extinguisher and pedals...on the main tub, then I'll put it all together. I've also painted the body the yet-to-be-revealed mystery color but have not started doing any clear coating or applying decals to the body. I started on the interior first because I also painted the inside of the body (headliner area) with the same German Gray. I wanted to do that before painting the exterior and so figured I might as well work on the interior.
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Ok, one more round of sanding and priming. I swear I am done this time. I'll let it cure a day or two then do some light sanding, draw a waterline, and add some color. I bought two more rattle cans of paint....and off white for the top sides and a dark green for the bottom of the hull.
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It looks basically the same as a product offered by "The Small Shop". https://thesmallshop.com/ Unfortunately I believe they have ceased or at least paused operation. The web site is still there but everything shows as "sold out". In the past I think I saw a note there that they were stopping, though I don't see that on the web site now.
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I've done more sanding and yet another coat of primer. It is still far from perfect but getting better, and of course without the bright lights the imperfections are less noticeable. I will also say I do not recommend that wood filler I have been using. It seems difficult to get a good smooth finish with it, and somehow it seems inconsistent when you sand it....sometimes it sands off easily other times the edges continue to show even after sanding. This latest coat of primer is still curing; I'll probably decide tomorrow if I am going to work it more or say it is good enough.
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