leginseel

As I read through countless postings I am picking up so much knowledge as I go and this tip is certainly going in my locker.  Thank you for sharing it.
Cheers
Nigel

I've just read through your log and I have learnt so much during the process, thank you .  I can't start my build (my first ) until after the new year but can't wait.  Just one small question - did you settle on 160gsm black card for the deck caulking because it looks stunning.
Cheers
Nigel

Hi Nigel, it's really pleasing to know others pic up a tip or two from my build log as i'm also a beginner. As to your question, yes I did settle on the 160gm black card for the caulking.
Thanks for the comments, I'm pleased with the way it came out but if i'm honest and could start again i'll probably reduce it to 120gm, that'll bring it better into scale in my opinion, also note I have been told i'm my own worst critic.
Regards Robert.

Absolutely stunning work.  The detail is mind blowing, congratulations you should be justifiably proud.
Nigel

Absolutely stunning work.  The detail is mind blowing, congratulations you should be justifiably proud.
Nigel

The fore and mizzen top gallant back stays are now finished and the main, almost.
 
Here is the foremast. The backstays are not finally made off, and the last two, at the far left of the photo will be left as is for the time being.  They are the ones most likely to get in the way of later rigging and may be easily moved if necessary. 
 
 

 
Here is the mizzen. Ditto the preceding remarks.
 

 
I may have belatedly found the reason for the omission of the eyelets on the forward channels mentioned in an earlier post.  In looking more carefully at the plan (9) - always a good idea, though I often ignore it - I came across this! It seems rather (needlessly?) complicated and I think I will continue to ignore it.  I have in any case put the extra eyelets on the channels.
 

 
Those following Arthur's log will have seen his main bitts with his virtuoso addition of seven belaying pins. Given the spacing of my existing two pins, I was only able to squeeze another three on. (Actually I doubt if I could have squeezed seven on in any event.) I will rely on my 'less is more' defense in coming up two short. They haven't yet been glued in, and I now see from the photos that some minor adjustments are needed.
 

 

 

Hi All,
 
Finally managed to get some time and finished stepping in the masts. I think this may be the fourth time I've said this but here we go again, "On with the rigging", I hope I start this time.

Thanks for the advice Allan, is the glue you refer to like the Titebond range which I can get in the UK?

Mike, behave, rigging another already after the Victory you finished....You fancy a trip to the uk to rig mine...
Well I have fixed the first bank of canons to the decks now 16 months after avoiding them, just a few additional ropes to be added. I have also fitted the platforms upto to poop deck and made the stairs to be fitted but not took any pictures yet. I had to make my canon blocks as the stock ones I looked at were just too big

Cheers Mike,,,, To kind. Oh! I hope the ships are still being built by yourself as I do recall the Victory was to be your last, hope there was a change of mind.
 
Nigel, Again, thank you, I'm sure you have been informed by many but get yourself an army of books for reference material, there is only so far a plan and basic instruction book can guide / show you. I know I have beat up on Constructo from time to time in my topic but somethings they messed up on were quite big, if the accuracy is wanted. There is a lot of scope for additional detail on these kits but this is entirely at the builder discretion and bear in mind much of it also gets hidden later on.   
When I started my wife was shocked when I said I wanted a ship to build, having never touched a model ship, I saw one when I was on school trip and remember thinking how stunning a model a ship was, Well I just think there the nicest looking model sat in any environment. The dream kit for me is the Caldercraft version, larger in scale better by design but its what you pay for and I did not justify the cost of that model to cut my teeth on. So many abandoned kits on that popular selling site.
 
Enjoy it, don't rush it, When it gets on top of you, stop! make a brew and have a break, it will look different after. Well look at the gaps / breaks I have had during my build, It is always going to be there when your ready to pick it back up.... Make sure you keep us updated on here too.
 
 
Paul
 
Any issues you hit just shout 

I've been looking though your log in absolute awe!!  I have a Constructo Bounty waiting in UK for me to bring back to Turkey to build after Xmas.  This will be my first build and your comments and pointers from your log are invaluable.  If I can come close to match this level of workmanship I will be amazed but the bar is set and I'm really looking forward to getting started.  Thank you again for your log.
Cheers
Nigel

Hello. Hope am not too late. Check this for butt end patterns
 
http://modelshipworldforum.com/ship-model-framing-and-planking-articles.php    Look for article: Simple Butt-Shift Deck Planking
 
And for the treenails, if you must absolutely have them, drill the holes (properly aligned) with the smallest drill you have, or as someone said, just punch them with a sharp point. I use a drop of Boiled Linseed Oil (maybe can use some other stuff like varnish, but I have never tried it) on a piece of very fine sand paper, sand over the holes. The dust will mix with the BLO filling the holes and leaving a very subtle spot of the same wood.
 
Hope this helps

BigCreekDad,
If you want to add the simulated bolts as mentioned in several of the inputs by drilling and filling.
I would recommend to make a template, using sewing needles that has been inserted into something hard, approximate three boards wide.
You are now wondering why.
Going three boards wide, you will be able to center nails easily.
Glue the needles.
Now using a hammer, tap in the area you want to be marked and then drill.
This way you will have an even marking and on the plus side the drill will not wander of the target.
 
Just my two cents

I highly suggest for future models that you make sample deck sections in order to try various tree nailing and/or caulking systems so that you find what you like best before applying it to your model.
 
When I was making the AVS, I built several test deck sections using the exact materials I would be using on the model, and then used different sized holes and colors of fillers to determine what I liked best, that way when I did the model deck, I knew exactly what size of drill to use, how to do the caulking, and what filler I was going to use to fill the holes.
 
Don't forget to apply anything that you intend to use for a final finish also, as that can change the colors.  I used Wipe on Poly and applied it to my test decking sections as well.
 
Here was one of several sections of 'test decking' I made to see what the finished deck would look like:

 
Once I had decided on the color of the filler, and how I was going to do the actual caulking, I made another section where I tried different size holes using the final choices for filler.  I also tested my caulking (using a 3B pencil on the edge of the planks) with only a single side of the joint colored vs. both sides, that is why some joints are labeled 'single' and some are 'double'.

 
By doing this first, on test sections off of the model, I was fairly certain that I would not end up with a deck that I hated when I was done, and it saved me the pain that you are currently experiencing.
 

Thanks for the advice Allan, is the glue you refer to like the Titebond range which I can get in the UK?

Nigel,
 
Yes, Titebond is one of my top two choices, the other being Elmer's Carpenter glue.
 
Allan

Thanks for the advice Allan, is the glue you refer to like the Titebond range which I can get in the UK?

Thanks for the advice Allan, is the glue you refer to like the Titebond range which I can get in the UK?

Just registered to this site so apologies if this response/question is in the wrong place.  I am a novice ship builder as I have made some matchstick models but I am an above average woodworker.  So after the matchstick models I have just bought a
Constructo Kit of the HMS Bounty.  Has anyone had any experience with this kit who can give me any tips.  Also from my experience kits never come with enough glue or wood.  What type of glue do I need for this type of kit?  I'm used to using standard PVA but suspect that won't be good enough.

Thanks for the advice Allan, is the glue you refer to like the Titebond range which I can get in the UK?

Nigel
 
I have no personal experience with kits but regarding the glue, aliphatic glue is PVA that has been modified to be stronger and is commonly called yellow glue or carpenter's glue.  If there was a poll here, I am pretty sure it would be the most commonly used glue for binding wood to wood.   Epoxy is excellent for times when you have a tiny surface area for the glue.  Cyanoacrylate might work for some things, but I have never found where carpenters, PVA or epoxy are not better choices, are less dangerous and have no sheer problems like CA.
 
Allan

Just registered to this site so apologies if this response/question is in the wrong place.  I am a novice ship builder as I have made some matchstick models but I am an above average woodworker.  So after the matchstick models I have just bought a
Constructo Kit of the HMS Bounty.  Has anyone had any experience with this kit who can give me any tips.  Also from my experience kits never come with enough glue or wood.  What type of glue do I need for this type of kit?  I'm used to using standard PVA but suspect that won't be good enough.

Just registered to this site so apologies if this response/question is in the wrong place.  I am a novice ship builder as I have made some matchstick models but I am an above average woodworker.  So after the matchstick models I have just bought a
Constructo Kit of the HMS Bounty.  Has anyone had any experience with this kit who can give me any tips.  Also from my experience kits never come with enough glue or wood.  What type of glue do I need for this type of kit?  I'm used to using standard PVA but suspect that won't be good enough.