Richvee

2. Making the hull
Mr Van Beylen recommends in his handout to build the hull in a frame in the same way as the gaff sail boat was built.

I experienced however that this method is not very handy for me. I will build this hull upside down on a flat building board.
I start with copying all the station drawings. The small rectangle on top of each station with the station number in is to place all stations at the correct height.

Now I take some of the relics of last Christmas evening dinner that I saved. The wood is ideal to glue my templates on it and to saw them out.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 

Next thing is placing them on a plywood backbone, sawn in the shape of the keel and stems.

Now all station sides have to get a slope according to their position forward or afterward. I will sand the slopes. To see if enough is taken away from each station I paint the sides.

 

The sanding is done with a bow, made of a strip of strong sanding paper which is stapled on a flexible wooden lath.

When all the paint is sanded away, the slopes of this side are ready. Now the other side.

I will make the model mainly out of cherry wood. The main reason for that is that I have plenty of available.
Now I saw the stem and the stern.

 

Cutting the rabbets with the chisel.

 

 

I fix them with a couple of nails to the building frame.

I make the keel a bit different than explained by Mr Van Beylen in his manual. He makes the keel as one whole with the rabbets cut in the sides. I will make the keel in two layers. Here the first part, which comes equal with the garboard, is laid. I cut the sides diagonally, equal to the slope of the stations.

 

 
Thank you very much for reading this log and for your likes.
 
 
Till next week!

Thanks for the likes.. I put the KC in it's case today. Amazing how the case gives it that extra something.. I think it looks pretty good!

 
 

 
 

Post 32
 
the end..... sort of
 
It seems when we get to the end of a project it is more subjective than definitive.   There is always more detail we could add.   Anyway, I think we are there.  Below I have a bunch of photos to capture the completed diorama before it disappears under a case.  
 
First up are four view from the 4 quarters
 
 
328   329   330   331    
Now three pictures of the crew
 
332   333   I added a few jacks to hold the new plank 334    
Now six views of the hull
335   336   337   338   339   340    
Three looking down at the decks
341   342   343    
 
And one for the chain windless shack.   Oops I need to add a building 3 sign.
344    
In the next month I will get a glass case…I think and then we’ll see where she goes
 
Thus it is the next posting that will say finished
 
Cheers
 
Jon
 

Wow-- it's been too long since I updated. OTOH, I haven't accomplished a huge amount in the interim. Not for lack of trying. This stuff takes a LONG time. Things that look like they'd be really easy on the plan end up being whole projects unto themselves, especially for a newbie.
As one other builder did, I decided to mount the cannons in the stowed position against the bulwarks. This was mainly because I didn't want to tackle (no pun intended) all the blocks and cordage that these tiny guns would require. I glued all the gun ports shut, which I think makes for a cleaner look from the side.
I've partially made the bowsprit and jib boom so I could determine the position of the Samson Posts and winch. Those are not glued yet. The winch, Samson Posts,  were a couple of those little details that ended up taking up a long time fabricating and finishing. Ditto for the pin rail forward of the mast. Drilling those holes without splitting the rail was a big problem. I ended up using bigger timber than called for but I think that's less objectionable than a broken rail with pins all over the place. Similar difficulties with the fife rail aft of the mast.  They're not museum quality, but I'm happy enough. The foc'sle hatch was comparatively simple.
I replaced the crew berthing galley with a grated hatch for the simple reason that I love the look of those. These are laser cut walnut from Model Expo. I'll have a second one further aft.
On a related note, for fans of the Pride of Baltimore II-- every Saturday at 9:00 they host Coffee With The Captain on their Facebook page. They discuss a great number of Pride related topics, and any fan of wooden sailing ships would enjoy this. They are currently uprigging the ship after her year long hiatus under wraps, so it's particularly interesting. Older broadcasts are still available. The Pride IS planning on sailing this summer and you can be sure I'm planning on getting aboard!
 
 

Cannon balls

I  have completed the rigging of the guns on the gun deck and started the quarter deck frames.

Slow going as work gets in the way. It also looks like we'll have a pretty full high school baseball season so I've been spending more free time in the rule book and getting in a little better shape.
I installed the planksheer. I painted the outboard side, again, because I can't see another way to get a crisp line later. 
 
 

 
It was short at the bow, as many have mentioned. Pretty straight forward fix to add some length. 
 

 
I've added the whales, and I've started the first few strakes after lining off the upper belt. I found myself a nice pair of proportional dividers on E-Bay for under $40. I was amazed at the prices of this little instrument from retail vendors. 
 

 

 
 
 The whales are painted, but I'll need to sand them more. The paint was more to get color on the top of the first whale strake, again, the only way to get a clean line for me. 
 
 

I continue with the guns. I have to complete installing of all the cannons and other furnitures on the gun deck before installing quarter deck and waist deck frames.
I forgot to paint the wheels black before I glued them on the carriages so I decided to paint the whole carriage red. These cannons will hardly be seen since they will be under the quarter deck and waist deck. There will be fully visible cannons on the quarter deck and I will make the correct colouring for those cannons.

Double wheel is complete and this is how I built it.

Post 31
  
Stands chain and work crew
 
I believe that telling the story of the railway and how it works is a key part of this build. It has been here and active for 150 years and quite a marvel.  In normal years there are many different large yachts, tugs, science boats and schooners that come up for underwater work.   For the past 5 plus years the yard has been fully dedicated to this re build of Ernestina and that is what we are trying to show.
 
Stands
 
For the full story one needs to go back to photos 144 and 145 to see the stands engaged against the hull when Ernestina was hauled.  Once the planking and framing was removed and the hull rebuilt, the stands needed to be rebuilt to facilitate launching.
316   here is a new built-up stand that supports the hull after the planking is done.   At this point all the painting is done and the stands are in position ready for launch.  There are five of the eight on each side engaged. The chains on the deck allow the stand to be pulled away from the hull after the schooner is in the water and started to float free. 317   here we see at the aft end the base is in place.  there is a 6x6 post beyond.  This view of the base  is how I plan to show the five active units because before completing planking poles were used and continuously relocated to allow planking. Those bases at the extreme ends were laid aside to allow better access.      
Chains and tide
 
318  In this view we are need a low tide.  We can see the red buoys marking the end of the railway.  The dock in this view is shown on the edge of the diorama to help orient the viewer.  See the tide marking on the piling. We have 9–10-foot tides in the harbor. 319   here is a closeup of the chains laying out into the harbor.  The large chain does not go all the way out.  The smaller chain is hooked to it and rounds a sheave underwater.   320   here the smaller chain hooks into the railway car about 2/3 the way forward. Is is used to pull the car down the slope into the water at launch.  The bigger chain continues up and into the windlass for hauling either out or in and connects to the front to the car. Note the large amount of seaweed even this far up the railway. 321  here I have connected the smaller chain to the car.  One of the work crew decided to check it out. 322    this view is a typical near high tide.  The water came in and up to the deck of the railway most tides.  I debated what to do and deferred to the easier low tide approach.  
The work crew arrives
 
323    I went to eBay and found a model kit of 9 German army tank workman and thought to give it a try.  I filed off their soft hats and roughed up some of their uniforms before painting. 324   I think I want to show a bunch of them working on the hull planking.  It was funny as the loose schooner kept sliding and knocking the guys down.  I need to fix that oops. 325   here is the planking crew 326   here is the decking crew  
327    Here we see both, and the new black pained trim around the diorama.  
Next up
 
I realize I need to set the schooner on the railway permanently.  That means any work needing to apply force needs to be done.  Therefore, by next week. work on the schooner per say will be wrapped up and the remainder will focus on details and the overall story of rebuilding.  Finally, I need to complete the diorama parts, painting and seaweed etc.

Post 28
 
Progress on deck and the engine room hatch rebuild
 
This post records one of the challenges of building a model without proper drawings.   The park service drawings for Ernestina were based on field measurements made in 2008 ish.  The 2016 redesign and rebuild has many subtle changes.   I am dependent on my observations and photos to pick them up.  
 
Recently I was asked for information regarding the pumps.  I posted the photo below on Allanyed's site without much thought, as I am not building out all the deck furnishings.    Now that I progressed as far as I have with the framing and deck beams, I started adding deck. I found something that did not make sense.  
 
286    This view shows the new pump on the rebuild in a space between the main fife rail and hold hatch that is clearly as big as the fife rail.  Let’s call it 4 feet. 287   This view shows the engine room hatch/ dog house being almost square. 288   This view shows what I built that clearly reflects the drawings.  The hatch is big and comes forward to the major deck beam just aft of the main mast.   This configuration may agree with the drawings but clearly not the photos of the new build.   
I was lucky to get to the yard and learned that I not only did the hatch wrong, but the lower bulkhead should also be one beam aft of what I built, again as I built to the old drawing.  I need now to dismantle and rebuild the hatch and bulkhead.  That will also free up space between the major deck beams for the pumps and reflect the new build.
  
289    this view shows the deck plan with a red line where the forward extent of the hatch needs to be located The reduced size of the hatch  would give room and clearance through the structure for the pump as well. 
 
290   This closeup shows the bulkhead below that needs to be moved aft one frame.  
291   Here I have made a new deck beam.  
292   In this view I have removed much of the lower deck frame and bulkhead. I may be able to reuse most of these pieces in the rework.  
293  Here we are all rebuilt and the deck  recut and placed.  
294   Here we are a few days later where we wanted to be.  The decking around the hatch is being glued down.  
295   I wanted to share this view of the real hatch construction.  The hatch curbs are painted white. The unfinished wood is the buildup of the doghouse that as of now I am not building.  I may rethink this later.  
Well, I lost some time. Checking things twice pays off.  Fortunately the rework was not too taxing.
 
All for now

Post 29
 
 More detail progress on deck and the dock gets built
 
The schooner deck is coming along, and the dock is now completely installed and ready for saltwater impacts like tide markings.  I am getting ready to install the first steel structure on the railway car. 
 
The schooner
 
296   here we see the detail of the planning on the transom.  
297   here is my attempt to replicate it  
298   Here is the wheel gear box and access hatch  
299   here is my attempt to replicate it  
300   this view from the aft side.   
301  My next question is how, if at all, do I finish the wood. There are various stains and that could be enough.  I often used either wipe on poly of tongue oil in the past.  Once I do either there is no more ability to fuss with coloring etc.   the decking is unfinished maple at the moment, and it needs something just to stay clean and to be cleanable in the future.  I also must decide how much deck to install.   There is no right answer I believe to that question, so I will see where it goes.   I want to complete enough in the bow to show the two lazarette hatches. I need to get the scuppers in soon too.   
The dock
 
302  this work on the dock needs to realistic enough to make sense but not take over as to the subject.  I hope what I doing here works.  
303  as we move past the railway, the dock does stop for a bay and then continue out into the harbor with another building.  I hope the sing sting of piles works.  
304  here I started to show the low tide makings on the piles. I also hope the handrail will help explain this line is the end of a dock that makes up the shipyard. We will need to have an over view phot top make that more clear.
305   coming up soon I need to get into the seaweed and other things to help make the shoreline more realistic. That is actually fun as I have to invent my way through the stage and hope it all works.  
Next up I need to complete the fore deck framing and get into decking. Then I need to set the first steel frame and platform and work on chains.

Some progress in between snow shoveling and work. 
 
I've faired the hull, along with sanding those low bulkheads to match the bearding line. Laying a plank across those spots seems to look OK. We'll know for sure when we start planking, I guess. I decided to go ahead and fill between all the bulkheads with balsa, taking the advice of @jwvolz . This being my first attempt at planking a deck, I thought this looked like a good way to go. I would also like to add the hatch and cabin moldings prior to planking the deck, so I though a solid base will give me the best shot at laying down level moldings. 
 

 
I have gone ahead and applied the first plank flush with the deck. this is a single plank, painted black. Above will be the planksheer painted yellow outboard, and below will be the wale also painted yellow. As I've seen in other logs, the only way I'm ever going to get a decent line here is to paint this plank prior to adding the planksheer and wale. 
 
Here we have the first plank installed, and the outboard of the planksheer pieces painted yellow. 
 

That looks great Rich.

Some progress in between snow shoveling and work. 
 
I've faired the hull, along with sanding those low bulkheads to match the bearding line. Laying a plank across those spots seems to look OK. We'll know for sure when we start planking, I guess. I decided to go ahead and fill between all the bulkheads with balsa, taking the advice of @jwvolz . This being my first attempt at planking a deck, I thought this looked like a good way to go. I would also like to add the hatch and cabin moldings prior to planking the deck, so I though a solid base will give me the best shot at laying down level moldings. 
 

 
I have gone ahead and applied the first plank flush with the deck. this is a single plank, painted black. Above will be the planksheer painted yellow outboard, and below will be the wale also painted yellow. As I've seen in other logs, the only way I'm ever going to get a decent line here is to paint this plank prior to adding the planksheer and wale. 
 
Here we have the first plank installed, and the outboard of the planksheer pieces painted yellow. 
 

Some progress in between snow shoveling and work. 
 
I've faired the hull, along with sanding those low bulkheads to match the bearding line. Laying a plank across those spots seems to look OK. We'll know for sure when we start planking, I guess. I decided to go ahead and fill between all the bulkheads with balsa, taking the advice of @jwvolz . This being my first attempt at planking a deck, I thought this looked like a good way to go. I would also like to add the hatch and cabin moldings prior to planking the deck, so I though a solid base will give me the best shot at laying down level moldings. 
 

 
I have gone ahead and applied the first plank flush with the deck. this is a single plank, painted black. Above will be the planksheer painted yellow outboard, and below will be the wale also painted yellow. As I've seen in other logs, the only way I'm ever going to get a decent line here is to paint this plank prior to adding the planksheer and wale. 
 
Here we have the first plank installed, and the outboard of the planksheer pieces painted yellow. 
 

Thanks Michael, Rusty and Bob for your comments and for the "Likes".
 
Michael, I also enjoyed your visit to the SMSNJ Zoom meeting.  I have enjoyed the Zoom meetings of the various clubs that I attended over the last ten months.

Hard to believe it has been over a month since I last posted an update.  December was a good month for me as I got a lot of work done on my Longboat and was hoping that I would finish it by the end of the year.  I wound up with a bad cold a few days before the end of the year and for some reason I have not done any work on my Longboat since then, even though I feel fine now.  I guess it stopped my momentum.  This is where my progress stopped, having completed the shrouds, forestay and backstays. Here is a photo of the forestay and the shrouds:
 

 
Here is a photo of the backstays along with the straps with the hooked blocks:

 
And here is a photo of the shrouds, forestay and backstays where they meet at the top of the mast showing the lines served:

 
I am getting close to finishing my Longboat, needing to install the bowsprit, construct the oars and add some more rigging and rope coils.

Post 26
 
Progress on top rails and deck level
 
I am celebrating another small milestone this week. I completed the cap rails   yippee. 
 
262   Here we are gluing in the outer band of the monkey rail.  I had some scrap 1/32” on the outside resting above the lower cap rail to maintain the right shape and recess…. The outer edge of the two rails match up.   
263   here we are gluing in the inner band of the monkey rail.  Two each 1/16” bands give us the 6 inch in scale rail.   
264   looking better. Now to do the cap rail. It is narrower but more difficult as it rounds to the main cap rail.  
265   here I took a piece of maple and started carving.  it is a true trial and error approach for me.  
266   here we are carved, and it is time to split it on the table saw for two pieces.  
267   here is the port side from the outside.  
268   here is the starboard side from inside  
Now what comes next and what needs more thought
 
269   in this view of the stern, I have placed a king plank. I plan to use maple for planking just to have some visual difference.  Before I decide where to put decking, I need to build up curbs for the hatches, and things that interrupt the decking.   I stared with the captain cabin and am now working my way around.  I used a duller cherry stain only on the bulwarks again to show they are different wood. They are all Douglas fir as I understand it.   So is the deck but it gets a very dark treatment eventually  
270  here we see the bow section.  I have drilled the hawse holes and set up for the bow sprit.  There is a king plank sitting there but ai am unlikely to use.  The old drawings show no king plank and the photos I have show none. I am just used to them.  the phot of the new deck clearly shows the stern to have none.    Also, two planks in the middle fit nicely against he Sampson post.   Sounds like a tail wagging the dog but something will be done. if i mount the prop bowsprit no-one can tell anyway.  
271  this shot was last Friday just laying out my supply of beams to see if I was ready to attack the main deck.  I also had just installed the last few lower deck beams so that area is complete less construction planking and ladders. there is progress below on the dock as well.  
 272   this is todays celebration. Other than the steering gear rig, which is in fabrication, the after-deck framing is complete. I have cut out the curbs [ kerbs] for the next hatch and they are in for painting white like the captain’s cabin curb. The plan above shows I have used the 2006 measured drawings as the basis.  The were no noticeable differences going through the current rebuild so we should be OK.  
Next up I will continue forward on the deck frame and building of the diorama dock
 
cheers

Post 25
 
How to finish the outside
 
Now the cap rail is going on, I need to figure out the final finish for the exterior planking vs. frames etc.   First up, let’s get that cap rail done.
 
251   I continue to use milled poplar for this build.  The rail is marked and cut out of ¾ inch strips  
252  The mid-section includes the pin rail for the main mast.  
253  here all rail sections are on and ready for shaping. I used this process also to build out the fan tail.  
254  at this point, I feel we are starting to look like a schooner. The rail makes so much difference.   
Now how to finish, and what to show
 
255  here I tested an attempt to drill and plug holes for trunnions on the left column.  No good and too big and way too much work for the result.  The second frame to the right is simple, smaller holes drilled and rubbed over with stain to fill the holes. Some sawdust was included.   This is the way for me and now  let’s get it on.  
256  on this attempt of the lower planks, I tried applying shellac to better fill up the holes.  
257  in this view I only used the golden stain and I like the results more.  It is a subtle indication of trunnels.  I was lucky to have earlier images, previously posted, showing the pattern.  
258  here I have drilled, resanded and restrained the starboard side. This view from aft also shows the transom upper half now planked as well.  
259  this view from the bow.  Note I have fit a bowsprit to help complete the bow.  
260a   here in 2 stacked photos, the whole set up is clearer.  One can also see progress on the port side steel structure for the railway.  
260 b
 
 
Next up more railway progress
 
Cheers

Thanks Rich. It's a fantastic kit, and the larger scale is nice. I'm really enjoying the build, as it's a nice change of pace from warships. 
 
One other though on the decking... You could go with a 1/32" sub deck and then use 1/32" planking material, which would keep you at scale height. Though, using the balsa filler is still likely easier. 

Thanks Joe. The deck planking are indeed 1/16 thick. I think I'm going to take your advice. I've seen others do things to get a sub deck on this mode. This seems like the best method to me, as to not run into any added thickness to the deck which would undoubtedly cause issues with the planksheer and bulwarks. 
 
Your Latham looks tremendous. Years ago, in my early teens,  I lived close to Model Shipways in Bogota, NJ. I built the Taurus (pretty sloppily I may add, as most teens would). I then went for the 1/8" scale Latham. Back then they were all solid hull.  I don't think I ever finished the rigging, but it was my introduction to the hobby, so the Latham holds a special place for me. Maybe I'll try it again some day in 1/4" scale. It's a beautiful ship, and you are doing it justice. (Unlike I did way back when LOL).  

Hope you can join us tonight, Michael. The zoom meetings have been going very well. I also have a little modeling background in HO trains. I'm currently in ongoing negotiations with the Mrs to obtain use of the spare bedroom for trains. Negotiations are not progressing well. 🥺

I've decided on the POB2 as my next build. I'll save the rigging of the Medway Longboat for that inevitable time when I get a little tired of this ship. 
 
I've chose this model for a few reasons. 
Lots of interesting deck work
Lots of available resources
Love the lines of this ship, and really like the way it looks under sail. That's the plan going in...To make this my first attempt at sails. 
..And last but not least, while I was contemplating what to make next, the POB2 showed up in a MS email for 50% off. 🤑
 
I've been looking at the first chapter of Robert Hunt's practicum that is available on line, and I'm torn about ordering the package. It's a bit pricey, IMO, and there's a wealth of free info here in the MSW forums. That said, I really like the idea of step by step instruction, since I'm still quite the novice. Reading through the instruction manual that comes with the kit, I can pretty much say they're almost useless. The plans, on the other hand, look good and very detailed. 
 
I've got plenty to do before I would need chapter two of the practicum, since I tend to move at a snail's pace with this hobby. And I'm sure this build won't go any faster. 
The kit arrived and the parts all seem to be in order. The dowels for the masts resemble the letter "U" and will certainly not be used. Maybe I'll try rounding off square stock, or at least get some kind of hardwood dowels that are better than the horrible pine dowels supplied.  Rigging and blocks will have to upgraded as well, as I've already been spoiled after using Siren line and blocks on the Kate Cory. I'll decide as I go how many of the cast metal fittings will be used. Either because they are out of scale, or because I'm going to leave some of the modern touches off this model, such as propellers, or just because they're just plain horrible. 
 
Anyway, the project has begun. Bearding line drawn in using a template that I cut from cardstock, followed by cutting a rabbet.
 

 
 Stern, keel, and bow glued into position and drying. 
 

 
reference lines have been drawn on the center keel,
 

 
Next up will be cutting out, marking up, and fitting the bulkheads. 
 
 
 
 

Good start Rich. While you still can, I'd advise balsa between every bulkhead. It isn't so much for fairing purposes amidship, but to give you a solid surface for deck planking. The deck planks in the kit are likely fairly narrow and will lay much better over a solid surface. It also allows scale lengths and butt shifts without having to worry about landing on an existing bulkhead. 
 
See my current Benjamin Latham build log for an example. Even though that kit is 1/48 it has 1/16" deck planks.