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Keith Black

NRG Member
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Everything posted by Keith Black

  1. Veszett, what dispute? No one is disputing Ian's use of 3D printing. As I said, "I don't disparage 3D printers, in fact I use 3D printed pieces parts sourced from suppliers. That's no different than if I was printing them myself. i admire folks like yourself who can master the printing process."
  2. David, I don't/can't disagree because I don't know. But with deeper grooves wouldn't the window rattle? Also, wouldn't a sliding sash in a stable nonmoving house react differently than on a tossed about ship in a wet environment? IMHO hinged windows would seem to be more suitable aboard ship.
  3. Thank you, Keith Thank you, Eric. Thank you, Grant. Thank you, Bob. Thank you, Pat. Thank you, Glen. No, I'm not letting Goober and Pile play nursemaid. Thank you, Rick. Thank you, Kurt. Thank you, john. Thank you gentlemen for the well wishes and the likes. The range of motion in my left arm is getting better though I still have to get my right arm out of my coat first and a coat is definitely needed when I go out on the porch to smoke my pipe as it's a balmy -7 this am. I was able to get a couple of hours in on Lula last night, it felt good to make some progress. Hopefully I'll have some photographic evidence of progress in the next three or four days. Thank you to all for following along. Keith
  4. Matthias, beautiful work. The only thing against sliding windows I can think of is the possible binding of the sash. A hinged window would eliminate possible binding?
  5. ian, I agree 100% with you. I don't disparage 3D printers, in fact I use 3D printed pieces parts sourced from suppliers. That's no different than if I was printing them myself. i admire folks like yourself who can master the printing process.
  6. Those of us without 3D printers and the ability to use them may as well be living in the stone age, Glen. But i look at it this way, I can't burn the house down with my flint knives.
  7. Welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.
  8. Thank you, Lynn Work on Lula has ground to a halt due to Maggie and I coming down with some illness that left us incapacitated. I was in recovery when yesterday I slipped on the icy back steps taking out the trash. I came as close to breaking my left arm as possible without actually breaking it so now I'm dealing with a bum wing. Having said the above I have had a chance to go over some of the engineering required for the wheel and engine room/pilothouse. Because the engine room's forward wall will be open, one could bend down and peer into the engine room. This requires that I build steam engines and building two engines that look alike will be a challenge that I look forward to. I had not counted on making engines but the engine room needs to be open for beam engine workspace. I have to build the engines first where I'll know exactly how far back the wheel sits and then I'll know exactly where the openings in the wheel wall need to be for the pitman arms not forgetting the openings for and making of the rudder post. These items all need to be made in concert with one another where they'll fit seamlessly. Thank you everyone for following along, sorry for the delay. Keith
  9. I dare say the paint that came with the kit probably isn't the best in the world. You can try upgrading to a better paint like Scalecoat, Lynn. It's expensive and seems to be hard to find. I see it on eBay for thirty bucks for two ounces.
  10. Fiurar, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.
  11. John, as good as it is to see you back working on the Klondike the good news regarding your wife's recovery is even better.
  12. The best solution (IMHO) will require refinishing the hull once done but it will be worth it in the end. Do the separations one at a time, fill the separation with CA glue and before it sets sand with 400 grit sandpaper. If the separation you're working on doesn't completely fill, repeat the process. The sanding dust is the exact color of the surrounding wood and the fill will almost be invisible. Cut your sandpaper into two by two inch squares and discard frequently as the CA will clog the grit. Don't get overly aggressive with sanding and dig grooves into the hull.
  13. Linus, welcome to MSW. I sometimes struggle at 1:120, the thoughts of working at 1:700 makes my knees weak. Glad to have you aboard.
  14. Ron, would you please start a build/restoration log for this model as I'd love to keep abreast of your progress.
  15. Ron, the ship looks salvageable but can the cat be saved?
  16. Lindsay, welcome to MSW as well. Glad to have you aboard.
  17. John, at one time or another most of us have been in your shoes. When building these fragile models breakage is to be expected. Short of doing the correct thing by replacing the broken part, you might try removing the broken top part of the mast, drill holes into the two faces, insert a brass pin made from brass wire, and CA glue the two pieces back together. It's a long shot, it might work but it's always going to nag at you.
  18. Peter, welcome to MSW. Glad to have you aboard.
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