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Everything posted by Jaxboat
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Tung Oil Finish?
Jaxboat replied to cdogg's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
Very true. I couldn't help myself. I am checking into Betty Ford tomorrow. Best JAXBOAT -
Tung Oil Finish?
Jaxboat replied to cdogg's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
The problem with tongue oil is that you can end up with too much lapping. -
Hi Wayne Are you still working on the ECB? BTW: the mixture that you mentioned they coated the deck with (Turps, pine tar and boiled linseed) would have a very short life cycle as an unpigmented clear on horizontal surfaces due to UV degradation even as far North as Mystic. I used to sell Pine Chemicals (interestingly the industry is still referred to as "Naval Stores"). Maybe that's why they painted the deck although the color does seem strange. I have this kit in my stash. Are you still having fun building her? Best Jaxboat
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I also have an Aztec. Nice unit. Cleaning is essential as well as using the right spray tip. You also need to use the right diluent with Acrylics to achieve the desired viscosity. It is essential to use the manufacturers recommended diluent. Never use tap water unless your tap is hooked up to an RO unit. Happy Spraying Jaxboa B)t
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stain vs varnish
Jaxboat replied to tmf's topic in Painting, finishing and weathering products and techniques
I think you are spot-on Colin! I totally agree! Best Jaxboat -
Great discussion especially about health issues. Plywood uses Phenol formaldehyde glues which are nasty as discussed . But also, as discussed MDF. plywood and other "manufactured wood" products can be used safely by wearing the proper safety equipment. As for outgassing, I suspect the amount that could occur from the minimal amounts used in ship model bulkheads and formers would be negligible but that is only a guess. Midwest makes a very nice grade of birch ply if you can find it.. Thanks to you both for bringing this topic up. Very useful and educational. Best Jaxboat
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All "dulling clears" contain a flatting agent which is adhered to the substrate with a resin of some sort. If you put too many coats on you will begin to notice the build up of he flatting agents and the beginning of opacity. Sam is right: one coat and done. Your coppering looks awesome, Bob! Best Jaxboat
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I suggest the Jotika Victory if you want to build the model now. However, Kevin has a good point. Euromodel has really upped their game with much better instructions . Look on their website. Royal William is awesome. I could kick myself for not buying Royal Louis like Ulises did when it was rediculaously discounted by Model Expo . Carpe Diem! I am waiting to see what happens with Chris Watton's Victory. I might end up with a hernia getting into my workshop and I will need to add a room to my house to display it but, based on what Mr Watton showed us on his blog, it would be well worth it! Best Jaxboat
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Remco: Just saw your build. Very beautiful. Your solution to the brick mortar was excellent. In fact, that is how you get mortar to stick to certain surfaces at 1:1 scale. PVA (Polyvinyl acetate) is the active ingredient (polymer, resin, emulsion) in the glue,. It interacts with the cementitious mortar. You can buy it as a powder or a liquid in a DIY tile store although considering you used about a thimble full, I think the way you did it is the easiest. Best Jaxboat
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Thanks for the tip! Jaxboat
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Jim, Have you considered designing and selling a push stick scaled properly for your saw? I also think there would be a market for a DVD demonstrating the use of your saw including safety tips. I found one on Amazon for the Preac. It's basic but instructive. thanks to everyone for useful comments. Best Jaxboat
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The high price ME quotes is no doubt the MSRP and bears little resemblance to the true market price. However the ME sale price is a very good one.
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Ben, Thanks for your comments. I need to steel wool the golden oak stain sealer. I think that will take care of that issue. As I mentioned above, the paint was not as "Matt" as I wanted. Can you steel wool paint? I am now planking the lower part of the ship. Lots of good build photos from you and others to help. Happy New Year Jaxboat
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Jim Byrnes Model Machines
Jaxboat replied to Mahuna's topic in Modeling tools and Workshop Equipment
Sounds like you have a wonderful business and life partner. Happy New Year Jaxboat -
Brian is spot on. Most resins used in oils and solvents will yellow based on their chemical composition. The terms water based and oil based are true misnomers. The water and oil (or solvent) are carriers. The resins (polyurethane, acrylic, etc) are neither "based" on their water or oil/ solvent carriers but simply in solution in them. Acrylics are UV transparent and will not yellow. Polyurethanes gradually degrade from UV initiated reactions and oxidation that result in yellowing. I prefer Oil /solvent borne stains for two reasons: they do not cause grain raise like wb stains and they can penetrate. In summary, there are pluses and minuses to both approaches. As someone said: experiment.
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Here art some more shots. I did the fancy molding using Boxwood from Jeff. I was really pleased at how it turned out. The PE scrappers work extremely well, I feel the ship is too glossy and will eventually use dull cote or equivalent. Would be interested in a WB equivalent. ' Still lots to finish up or correct with row and gun ports.
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