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rwiederrich

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Everything posted by rwiederrich

  1. rwiederrich
    Wonderful work...... Rob
  2. rwiederrich
    Next visit I will rig the upper and lower topsail's halyards block purchases that fix to the top. The topgallant and royal sheets will follow the downward path along with the buntlines to the rail. The interesting part will be when I add the first sail (Royal). I will need to affix the clew to the sheet at the sail corner garnet (from the topgallant yard)...the trick is permitting just enough oversize or width of the sail so that when it is fixed it will naturally bow...giving the sail the *Full* effect. Once this process is accomplished I will lift the sail up and affix it to the royal yard. After this I can rig the buntlines. Before all this funnary...I will add the foot rope stirrups. Rob
  3. rwiederrich
    Absolutely Amazingly....beautiful Ed. I was wondering how you were going to run the sheets...but it appears you shackle them to rope then run that down to purchase and to a pin on the rail.....? or is that just the haul? Sweet. Rob
  4. rwiederrich
    Spent a bit of time today rigging up the foot ropes and adding more blocks and sheets. Rob
  5. rwiederrich
    Spent some time adding blocks to the lifts and to the sheets. Tiny scale is working my eyesight....... Once I get the blocks in place....I'll fix the foot ropes....this is going to be very busy...with sails set too. Rob
  6. rwiederrich
    This is indeed so true of these clipper vessels...rigging was being invented as were nearly every aspect of them....the theme of speed left no area or subject untouched. As you have aptly pointed out, in the short lives of many clippers, their look took on(In some cases extreme) adaptations or improvements. My own experience(And clippers are all I model) has taught me this very important lesson. Thank you for enduring my own criticisms and questions. It was never about your work or your attention to detail or mastery of wood/metal working in such small scales. We are all blessed you have taken your time to share your build with us. Rob
  7. rwiederrich
    I built a few more blocks for the buntlines.
  8. rwiederrich
    Do you have a log for this build? Rob
  9. rwiederrich
    Wait a minute...did you start it already....did I miss this? Am I clueless? Rob
  10. rwiederrich
    I'm at work..so I'm not sure how long it is..but it is 1/128 and 3/32=1ft. You know about how large the Revell Thermopylae is well that is 1/96 and my Great Republic is slightly larger in size but comparatively the CS was just over 900 tons I think and the GR was 4555 tons so if I built her at the 1/96 scale she would be over four and a half Ft long. Billing Boats as well as Cast Your Anchor and Blue Jacket sell trusses. I've not found anyone who makes Sheet blocks...that is why I made mine. If you follow my method you can make some pretty small ones for your build. I'm not sure the Thermopylaer or the Cutty Sark used them....possibly. You can buy chain by the foot or longer. Get plenty. Good luck.....I'd love to see it when you start. Rob
  11. rwiederrich
    Making some blocks for the buntlines. Rob
  12. rwiederrich
    Thanks Popeye. Ed's method of fabrication is just not possible at this scale. I even tried it. I'm agreeable to just a simulation. I try to scratch build most things...but as is my custom I love modifying someone else's engineered stuff to suite my needs. I got my chain from, Cast your anchor.com Rob
  13. rwiederrich
    If Ed is half the expert of Clipper rigging and architecture as he is a master of modeling technique and skill, he will respectfully accept any criticism of his creations(which he has). The smartest expert is the one who treasures challenges to his expertise. And since I see no hands on experts who sailed on clipper ships...the best we can be is an interpreter of history with many holes in it. I believe Bob's *challenge* was not intended to belittle or lower Ed's expertise......but more to the point that some physical dynamics of function might have been overlooked. No one is perfect. Personally I appreciate Ed's wonderful work...even though I may not do things such as he did...but that is not the point of the Log. It's to enjoy and engage in his wonderful creation. Rob
  14. rwiederrich
    Apart from blatant errors or scale issues....my criticisms generally lay dormant......Cuz... I'm generally a lazy modeler and another's models *clean* construction techniques generally trump my critiques. Rob
  15. rwiederrich
    I agree ir3...it can be nearly impossible to fabricate a model of a vessel as it was originally created from this limited and somewhat diverse time frame. Changes were happening so fast as were the hull designs that a truly accurate representation is probably very difficult. Now, unless you are addressing some blatant errors or scale issues....I would defer to the most ardent experts who wrote on the subject...Underhill, Crothers, Campbell...etc. Somethings for representation purposes just have to be accepted. Rob
  16. rwiederrich
    Masterful job Ed, as usual. Talking about gaffs...will you be adding the pennant gaff between the mizzen spreaders? I'm wondering...what era have you decided to model YA...I don't recall...I'm sure you mentioned it earlier? If later...she didn't possess either fore or main gaffs from what I gather? Rob(2 thumbs waaay up)
  17. rwiederrich
    Just tinkering today and I tested the iron sheet blocks on the lower topsail yard with 42 LPI chain. Everything went smoothly. These things are tiny...so is the chain. The actual sheet blocks are pretty small on the real yard, about the size of half the yards diameter. Underhills drawings demonstrate this. That is why...even in my scale..they were going to be pretty small...like grains of wheat. And chain has to thread through them smoothly and then be drawn down to a block and tackle purchase to the top. Like threading a needle. Rob
  18. rwiederrich
    Yeah....look at that dead rise........ Can't wait for some wood to start moving. Rob
  19. rwiederrich
    Spent some time today working on the foremasts yards. Making the parrel bands and lots of eye bolts. I'll begin to start installing the foot ropes and stirrups next. Once done I'll rig the yard blocks. I decided to add the sales after I finish up all the workings of the yards....just don't want to fight all that after the sales are set. Here is where I am today.
  20. rwiederrich
    OC..I was thinking of using the powder and sealer on the entire hull...not just the deck. It gives the highlights that eludes to sun washed wood and greying that comes with it. Here is another example of the same model I did of the Ferreira (AKA Cutty Sark) I was mimicking the image of the severely weathered vessel...note the accompanying image. Rob
  21. rwiederrich
    One thing you may try for a dusty old warn look is try dusting on a very light coat of odorless talk(Use a facial powder brush. I personally use cerium oxide powder. Then when the dusting settles into all the cracks..seal it all with some dull coat. See the effect. Great job by the way on the Pearl... Rob
  22. rwiederrich
    Exceptional rework Ed...I was floored to see the bent railing...but you repaired it masterfully as well as the entire redo Rob
  23. rwiederrich
    The image does show rigging in many stages of completion...however....it is the depiction of the black lanyards that drew my attention to point out that even these hired naval rigging architects understood these items had to be identified...even if it meant using modern synthetic material to mimic tarred rope. When they re-rigged the Constitution...their Naval architects deemed it necessary to rig the lanyards with black rope. I can't imagine they could get that detail incorrect, if it were not so. Rob
  24. rwiederrich
    Bob....my own experiences mimic yours in but a smaller degree. I too spent many youthful days at the docks and yards talking to and getting information from old salts. My own travels abroad lent itself to gathering much on the subject. Thank you for being so clear and depictive. Personally, I have never rigged any vessel I have ever built with anything less then black lanyards......I used the time traveler analogy...because there are very few modelers who actually are aware factually of what you so accurately pointed out. The point is the truth could be readily identified by going back in time and seeing it for our selves. One other note....most of the time a ship being driven hard in heavy seas will keep her in bound deadeyes and their lanyards submerged...if they were not preserved they would not last. One good long voyage around the Horn could leave a vessel looking as if it had been sand blasted and painted with rust and decay. No wonder captains drove their crews to paint and tar the ships fittings, rigging prior to entering their destinations harbor. it was all about appearance.....to say, *look at how smart we look after sucha hard voyage*, and to impress the owners with the skill and prowess of the ship and her master. Rob
  25. rwiederrich
    The 42 lpi chain easily slides in from both sides. I think this will do at this scale. Rob

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