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rwiederrich

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Everything posted by rwiederrich

  1. rwiederrich
    Michael...I would think that a natural sail is not set tight like a drum head..but is rather over sized...and as you suggested...they slightly stretch. My experience with paper is that if you only cut the sail exactly the right size...the surface used to create the billow will indeed rob from the length....making the sail short. So experimentation has proven this to be true. Rob
  2. rwiederrich
    One note: The sails are made slightly longer and when rolled and suspended...when dry..they are easily roped in with the sheets and secured giving the proper billow. If you make the sails the exact size required..when you billow them, they will be to short. Here are some images where I left off. Rob
  3. rwiederrich
    Instead of using a wad of paper to help extend the sail into a more natural billow and distance from the mast...I used a cotton applicator taped to a alligator clip. This idea worked out fantastic....I could set the distance easily. Just wait for the glue to dry....(Gonna use this every time)
  4. rwiederrich
    Spent some time working on sails..... Here are some pix. Started with the topgallant construction...
  5. rwiederrich
    Thanks Popeye....I'm trying the best I can to achieve the most accuracy in this scale. Rob
  6. rwiederrich
    Wire. Then painted black. No one is going to play with them to see if they are hemp or not...and in many cases, anyway, they were wire cable. Once tucked amid the numerous other running and standing rigging....they present themselves with great accuracy. Which is the actual goal anyway. Thanks for the fine comments and interest. Rob
  7. rwiederrich
    Once that was all done I moved into making and installing the first of the sails...the royal. It is setting suspended at the right billow..and allowed to dry....then I will add the clew blocks to the clew cringles and finish rigging the bubntlines by adding the bunt blocks on the yard and running the lines down along the mast to the spider rail. After this is all finished I will begin fabricating the topgallant sail and her rig.... Rob
  8. rwiederrich
    Worked a bit today on the yard blocks and the sheets..here's some pix.
  9. rwiederrich
    I realized that I could also add items side by side as well as from top to bottom. Installing all the sagging lifts one side at a time made the process move out faster. Next is making and adding all the blocks needed for the sail rigging and for the yards. Unlike last time, I'll probably just make all the blocks, then hang them and then run the rigging. It is more productive for me to create small projects......making the BIG project come along that much faster......It's all mental.... I'll be back at it tomorrow for an hour or so then CHRISTMAS! Merry Christmas everyone....... Rob
  10. rwiederrich
    Cleaned up some rope coils for fore buntlines.
  11. rwiederrich
    Once installed I then added the relaxed lifts....
  12. rwiederrich
    Spent a little time roday working on the topgallant and royal yards.
  13. rwiederrich
    Those resistors are great for toning down the brightness of those LED's. I appreciate your response about the sails. Fine chalk powders are great for weathering, if that is what you are using. Cloth sails have always been problematic....because of the scale issue....I'm interested in your technique. Another question; What is the gold paint you are using for all your gold work? Is that the automotive paint? It sure is bright and has a tendency to flow smoothly into voids and makes the carvings softer and less rigid looking. Rob
  14. rwiederrich
    Fantastic Doris.... I can see from that one image of you holding the cabin bulkhead, that your scale is much larger than what I generally work in. 1/55 is slightly larger than 1/128. Your work is just wonderful.... On another note; you will have to give a quick tutorial on how you fashioned your sails...what they are made of and your treatments for them. Your sails are very realistic. Rob
  15. rwiederrich
    Once all the yards are mounted, then I will add all the relaxed lifts in sequence. I began the topgallant yard by adding all the eye bolts and the sheet block...now I'm getting ready to rig the foot ropes and stirrups. The sheet holes have been drilled and chamfered. Rob
  16. rwiederrich
    Spent a bit of time today and finished up the top sail yard...still need to add the halyard.
  17. rwiederrich
    These are my vary own thoughts. I am no purist and for as long as I have been building ship models(nearly 50 years), I have used anything and everything to build my models. You can find material from wood, plastic, metal, paper, card, wax, vinyl, rubber, poly-, bondo, plaster, and a plethora of other materials on all my models. The key philosophy is that *Paint covers a multitude of sin*, and the REAL ship I'm modeling was painted. It's not what you use to build your model...it's HOW you used it and does it replicate what you are modeling accurately. Rob
  18. rwiederrich
    Layering of multiple colors is the key to form detailed cabinetry. Wonderfully done. I suspect the light has come on for many modelers after you have exposed your techniques and they will begin to incorporate these techniques and materials into their own builds...so very nice. The purist of modeler can still find respect for your technique...even though they themselves would try to achieve their results in wood. I am a firm believer in using whatever material you can to achieve the results you are seeking. It is the end result that matters.. NOT what you made your model from. You have done that is great measure. Rob
  19. rwiederrich
    In this sail-less image, the lines missing are the buntlines and the stun sail yard rigging. Still lots going on with out them. Rob
  20. rwiederrich
    Indeed, I am confident you are very correct. However, my point is that the smaller the scale, the more difficult the application....just by the size and my inability to handle the material...due to shaky old hands. I see a million applications for this material...and I for one will avail myself of it for future builds. Thanks so vary much for your tutorials. Rob
  21. rwiederrich
    I took one of the over all build sight...and one from on face so you can see the the 20+deg pitch to the yards. This weekend and most of next week I'll be building like mad(I pray). Rob
  22. rwiederrich
    Spent a bit of time this evening making the lower top mast. Because this design is based on Forbes and not Howes...the lower topsail has a large gin block used for hauling up the spar. I remembered that I will be adding the yards going up in sequence and THEN coming back down adding the sails in sequence. Here is a couple pix of my slow progress tonight.
  23. rwiederrich
    I find this technique very reminiscent of a technique I also used on some models....however, I I didn't grasp the realization of using this technique extensively as Doris has. Not to answer for her, but I believe real wood is used for the proper relief needed and being real wood in a desirous shade it blends in after being sealed with the dull coat. Wonderful execution. My Great Republic deck houses are smaller than her interior panels alone.....so the strips would have to be extremely thin if I were ever to adapt this technique in my scale. Still it is intriguing. Rob
  24. rwiederrich
    Michael...wonderful adaptation. Looks like something I would do...oh wait......I have. I also have some high speed air dental hand pieces, I Use as well that work very good. Great ingenuity. Rob
  25. rwiederrich
    Well.... having nice sail control rigging doesn't always mean it has to be completely blocked by the sails. When sails are removed you lose some additional rigging namely the buntlines and clews. You only get to see the rigging from the aft aspect...if it is done correctly, you can still enjoy it with sails set. Rob

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