GemmaJF

Merry Christmas, dear friends .  .  .
 
Kurt, Mike, Denis, Joe & Doc, thank you for your kind comments. All is well at the Cougar Mtn Shipyard. We even had snow flurries on Christmas eve, unusual for Seattle. I am 900 feet up a 1400 foot hill and that helps.
 
I need to browse all of your posts and get caught up on what is going on. Denis, you can post a picture of one side of your house.
 
The fourth jongle was put in place and both edges of the uppermost jongle have been planked aft, port and stbd. The spell checker doesn't like some of these nautical terms!
 
Nothing exciting, just a strake section, glue, clamp, wait for it to set and then repeat the process.
 

 

 

 
All looks tight so hopefully it will sand out well. I need to experiment with a patch of this planking and see if I can use sanding sealer as well as poly or rubbed effect varnish. I still intend to use flat white for the under water hull area.
 
This is what I have on hand. I would appreciate comments on what would be appropriate as an undercoat for both the painted and the stain/varnish area.
 

 
Respectfully,
John

Head figure of Swedish royal yacht Amphion 1778 (3D model , finished )

Mercury Bust
for Brig "Mercury" (set of Amati)
Scale: 1:64
Material: pink pear
Dimensions block of wood (approximately): 35х15х18
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

...a little more process...
 

 

 

 

 

 
Unfortunately the rest of the work photographed. Not enough time.
 
 

Now that I no longer have to contend with the false keel, and I have a couple of planks glued to the transom, I've decided to change my approach as far as shaping the planks is concerned. You may recall that before gluing a completed plank in place, I used it as a template for the next plank.  This procedure, at least, got me in the ballpark. For the rest of the model, I'm going to use the "Magic Tape" method, which works pretty well, especially in a situation where you're trying to run one continuous strake from bow to stern.

I understand that some modelers duplicate the edge of the mounted plank by rubbing an impression in the tape, but I've found that a sharp pencil also works.  You don't have to press as hard, and since I'm working with basswood, that may be especially important.


The template you get from the rubbing may not be perfect, in fact mine rarely are, but they get you pretty close.

If I were spiling a plank for a larger model, I'd be using the concave part of the cutout.  However, since I'm edge-bending the planks, I'm going to use the convex portion as a guide.  The next two photos aren't pretty, but I think you get the idea.  The white pieces of paper under the clamps minimize the chance that the clamps will leave impressions in the soft basswood.  I'm using a sheet of glass as a base for this procedure because it's perfectly flat, impervious to water, and is quite thin, which allows me to use smaller clamps.


As suggested in the instructions, you can dry the plank with a hairdryer, or just leave it for a few hours, while you work on something else.

If the plank isn't quite right, I just dampen the area in question, and repeat the procedure.

Once you have produced a set of body sections drawn from your waterlines, you can extend diagonal lines across the body sections, from the centerline down at angles so that the diagonal lines intersect the body sections at as close to right angles as possible.
 
Then, measuring down each line to each body section, plot those distances on your half breadth plan at each station line, opposite the waterlines and connect the dots much like you did on the waterlines. The diagonal lines on the half breadth will not have any concave curves in them because they cross the body sections at, or nearly at, right angles. There may be areas that approach a straight line, but other than that, the lines will have some convexity. It is the result of the diagonal lines in the body sections crossing at nearly right angles to the body sections.
 
These diagonal lines in the half breadth will show you where you have unexpected humps or dips in the body sections, and thus in the waterlines. I would also include three buttock lines as well. Thus, using the waterlines, buttocks, and diagonals, you can correct each, checking back and forth for each body section, until you have faired the drawing. It is a time consuming and painstaking process, but it is the best way to produce a plan from which you can build.
 
Russ

Always 'prove' the lines using proof diagonals. These are essentially waterlines at about a 45 degree angle. They will quickly show if things are out of fair.

Awesome site with all the forums, information and galleries!
 
It is a pleasure !
 
attached pics of my Friesland from Mamoli, built in 2009
 
and HMS Victory from Caldercraft, just resumed build after 3 years!

Thanks a lot! After beginning to solder I realized that I could´ve have glued with superglue. That would probably look much better but not as sturdy. But half the fun is to learn new skills so I soldered!

Living in the town as well I echo David's comments. Hartlepool may seem a bit of a backwater, but the Trincomalee and what is now the Royal Navy Museum of the North is well worth a visit - it is now run by the same museum group as Portsmouth Historic Dockyard and HMS Victory, so hopefully we will see deeper connections over the coming years and a greater exchange of exhibits as part of the maritime experience.
 
In terms of the Trincomalee Chris Watton was considering a Leda kit, so fingers crossed, given there were 46 in the class that opens a lot of options. Too late for me I'm scratching a POB Trincomalee (I'll have to start a build log). I had the drawings for the Leda class a few years ago when visiting the Unicorn, they were £5.00 per sheet then, considerably less than the NMM, so worth enquiring if you visit Trincomalee's sister.
 
Gary

Greetings all
Yes it's well worth a visit, I have been to see it three times in the past few months and I live a ten minute walk from it. There is also a small museum on the site relating to the history of Hartlepool, and the restored PPS Wingfield Castle Paddle Steamer. I am not sure if it is used as a cafe, but it a real mess and looks like it's been neglected. I remember the Trincomalee arriving in Hartlepool in late 1980, and it was called the HMS Foudroyant but as most of you will know it had a name change to the Trincomalee. if you don't want to drive here, the best bet is Kings Cross direct to Hartlepool, no changes on the grand central train. Only three hours. I have lots of photos of the ship including below deck if you want me to post any, but I know lots have been posted before. If you come don't mention the hanging of the monkey, as we still have some rope left over. I am off now, I am going to Greenwich on Saturday for a look around the Cutty Sark and the National Maritime museum. My sons house is a 30 minutes DLR run from Greenwich. I am spoilt. If you need any info about the trinc or visiting just give me a bell. Just noticed POMPEY 2 has posted about 1000 dam photos of it !!!!!! It's a waste of time me posting any LOL . Cheers DAVID

For being the first soldering done in my life (well excluding some done when I was about 10ys old) I´m satisfied. Some cleaning up to be done but still!
 
I took the pliers and snapped of the end of the rod sticking out and almost done! then I checked the drawing and noticed a mistake I´ve made...
 
The rod should be not at the end of the spar but much closer to the middle... Gaahh! 
 
the problem is of course as I had snapped off the end it would be too short if I wanted to join the two ends further down as that distance is a bit longer...
 
I applied some heat and loosened the rod. Fortunately the rod was long enough to meet the spar further down!
 
So I could fix it! The second picture shows how it ended up.
 
Phew that was a bit of luck that the rod was long enough. Lesson learned: check the drawing very very carefully.
 
Now some cleaning up of the excess soldering lead.
 

 

I am in a series of discussions and correspondence with a recently retired lawyer who specialised in such matters.
She is forthright in drawing the distinction between copyright, patent and intellectual property rights.
She also accepts that advances in technology make it hard for the law makers to keep up.
Straightforward copying of another's plans is an obvious infringement of copyright but, whilst still offensive, using the same plans to produce  3D prints of (say) a set of cannon it would be hard to prove that an infringement of intellectual property rights had taken place.
I am happy that this forum takes a hard line on such matters, but worry that there is a grey area in law and practice that is growing greater at quite some speed.

Hi Terry
 
I visited the Tincomalee a couple of years ago, I knew her as a hulk in Portsmouth Harbour when I was a lad.
The museum that houses her and the ship itself are well worth a visit, I was very impressed.
I captured a bunch of photos and posted them on the site under NRG news, here is a link if anyone is interested.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/6335-hms-trincomalee/
 
Nick

The dictionary is well worth-while.  I'm used to reading technical reports in French, but the marine terminology is far from intuitive.  For instance, the French for mizzen mast is artemon, which is what we call  the foremast on Roman vessels, while the French for foremast is misaine !
 
 If you didn't know this, it would be easy to have the ship going backwards.

The sad part about not including the laser cut templates is that it takes away the possibility of scratch building the kit - though I completely understand the logic. I'm building Syren right now, and one of the laser cut bulkheads (#4) had some gaps in the wood on the bulkhead extension, so I had to cut a new one - using the template - though I guess the part itself would have served.
 
My wife runs a design business and she has had no end of problems with both foreign manufacturers AND European and American companies ripping off her designs - I have to say that in our experience this is not a phenomenon exclusive to Russia and China - it is in the very nature of Internet-based (or internet-facilitated) businesses. I have another friend who discovered that a song of his was being used in a Samsung commercial in S. Korea - without his permission. The payout he got allowed him to renovate his kitchen, but music publishing rights are pretty clear cut and enforceable.
 
My wife, however, has been burned by some recognisable US, Swedish, Australian and UK companies as well.....her and her partner have had to become very savvy about licensing and copyright on the designs and on how they are marketed online - though access to the images themselves cannot prevent copycats from just biting their style. They modify one small aspect (like the layout of a set of graphic elements or the colour of an image) and call it "unique". The "creative" in "creative economy" is very widely interpreted, it seems.....and is even a possibility for those for whom "creativity" is just novel ways of thieving other people's labour....
hamilton

Just watched a bit on TV about HMS Trincomalee where she is docked in Hartlepool in the UK. If no one has heard of this ship she is a total beauty and well worth doing a google search on. Would love to know if a model to build exists for this ship anywhere.
 
Regards
 
Terry

John,
 
I haven't seen that.  I use http://southseas.nla.gov.au/refs/falc/contents.html   Falconer's. 
 
 
I have 4 of their monographs and all are worth the price.

If you have to get one of the French monographs, ANCRE also sell a first-rate double-ended French-English dictionary of maritime terms ("A Marine Vocabulary") by David Roberts, who was Jean Boudriot's translator.
 

Looks like the experiment was a success.Thinner planks will be usec from now on.

Lots of clamps but it should work for the upper hull

A couple of pics of the wheel, still a bit of detailing to do but the washes are complete.
 
Now it's back to attaching battens. ZZZZzzzzzzz!
 
Len

My build log is up and running after finally figuring out the picture thing
 
Thanks to all for the welcome. I've already received a lot of ideas and hints from so many on this site. 
 
Kudos to all of you!
 
 
Bill

I felt like a break  from gluing the 1/32" battens to the wall of the boiler deck so I decided to start on the stern wheel, much more fun!
 
I found it fairly straightforward to glue the 2 halves of the 56A rings together then glue to both sides of each segment of  the wheel. I pushed each wheel segment onto the axel to align the washers ad glued those on too. The parts were pre painted with Krylon undercoat spray cans, white and red oxide. Next came the aging of the wheel sub asms, it took about 10 minutes per side to complete. I will give the complete wheel a black/green wash to finish it off, the wash will dull it down a bit, I hope.
Here are a couple of picks, one pic shows a none aged segment for comparison purposes. 
The paddles will be unpainted but vinegar dipped. I have a sample in vinegar right now see if I can get the effect I'm looking for.
Unfortunately my beloved tipped the old recipe away, it was close to 2 weeks old and working really well, so now I have a new batch brewing, see how that works in a day or 2.

Cathead, Mike,
                       This is the ref pic I selected for my paddle attachment, looks like Mike's method. I saw more pics similar to this one as well.
I'm not sure if I will be able to do the U bolts, I struggle to see small detail like that.