leclaire

I have used Rubber Cement (commonly found at arts and crafts stores). It keeps the template in place and is easy to remove.
 
Bob

I have used Rubber Cement (commonly found at arts and crafts stores). It keeps the template in place and is easy to remove.
 
Bob

I have used Rubber Cement (commonly found at arts and crafts stores). It keeps the template in place and is easy to remove.
 
Bob

Ras,
 
Thank you for the kind words and welcome to my build. Glad to have you aboard!
 
This is a learning experience for me, and over the past year I have definitely learned a lot! Not just about the Cairo itself, but Civil War history as well. There have been several people point me in the direction of fantastic books about the western theater of this war that have just fueled my interest in it. 
 
I am glad to see that some of my techniques will be of some use, that is one of the best things about this forum, is the willingness of everyone to pass along tidbits of information that make this hobby most enjoyable. 
 
I hope you find the rest of the build log as interesting as the first three pages. I should have more updates coming in the next week or so.
 
-Brian

I took a break from the ship itself to build a base, as the lack of one was holding me back from various steps. For example, I don't dare install the rudder until the hull was permanently fixed in place over a base wide enough to protect it (as the rudder sticks out way below the hull), and I can't start rigging the sail properly until the hull is stable (since I can't tip the hull onto its side once the yard is fully rigged). 
 
I pulled out some cherry and walnut that I'd harvested years ago here on my farm and bandsaw-milled. The cherry was more cupped and warped than I would have liked, despite years of drying in a stickered pile, but since I don't have a planer, I made do. I used a hand planer and rotary sander to flatten and smooth the surface somewhat, but couldn't get it fully flat. So I adapted the base design to "hide" this. 
 
I had two 6" cherry boards, so ripped one of them in half lengthwise and framed the other with them, using walnut inserts to separate them. I intentionally left the walnut thicker than the cherry. This meant that I didn't have to get any of the boards lined up at the exact same thickness, as the subtle (unwanted) variations between the cherry pieces are obscured by the more obvious (and intentional) difference between the two types of wood. I then added end caps of more walnut strips to further hide the cherry's problems. I did this with the base sitting on my flat concrete garage floor (where, sure enough, it wobbled slightly since the cherry wasn't flat), but simply attached the end caps flush with the floor so the final base would be stable. 
 
Not going to win any awards for woodcraft, but it worked well enough. I didn't take any photos of the assembly process, but here's the completed base with several coats of wood oil. I definitely like how the raised walnut gives it some visual diversity and interest (also looks less like a cutting board than if it was all flush).
 

 
 
 
You may notice some chatter marks on the cherry. That's from the bandsaw mill. Ideally these would be planed off, and I don't have (or really want) a planer. With enough time I could have eventually taken all of them out using a hand plane but I frankly didn't care to. The oil and photograph really brings them out, they're not as noticeable in person, and I never intended this to be art. I may make a nicer base sometime, like post-pandemic when I'm willing to go into a wood shop and have them plane some boards for me, but this is good enough for a working base for a model that itself has various problems and isn't likely to ever be displayed outside of my home. I really want to be done with this model and didn't want to spend tons of time crafting a perfect base.
 
So then I proceeded to attach the model. For this, I carefully measured a centerline, then marked the two points directly under the thickest ends of the stand (where the cross-pieces are). I then drilled holes in these locations, both in the base and the stand. Below, the screwdriver and pencil are pointing to the holes, which you can just barely see.
 

 
I then hand-drove wood screws up through the base, leaving the tips just sticking out the top. I could then fit the holes in the stand onto the screw tips (the model would only sit flush when the tips met the holes), then held it down tightly with one hand while final-tightening the screw with the other. To make this easier, I set the base spanning a gap between my table saw and garage workbench, so all I had to do was kneel underneath.
 

 
And now that she's firmly attached, here's a couple broader views from the pad outside my garage:
 

 

 

 
I think it's good enough. The screw attachment means I can always take it off again if I decide I want to make a nicer stand someday. Now I can move forward again, although I quickly realized I'd need to change the layout of my workspace, as this now takes the entire width of my workbench (which normally has a lot of other resources on it):
 

 
There's a bunch of stuff living on the floor next to the bench now. Another reason to get this done!
 
Thanks for sticking with me.
 

Turns out I moved forward today. I experimented with various cloth methods, after reading some more build logs, and just couldn't come up with something I liked or wanted to do. So I went back to the paper sail and applied another layer of colored pencil followed by a thick rub of brown pastel. This ended up darkening it pretty well with a better match for the model's color profile, and looks more like a weathered, heavily used sail.
 
Before:
 

 
After:
 

 
So I think I'm just going to go with this. I want to keep moving.
 
I also started shaping oars. These are hard to photograph, but I chucked dowels into my poor man's lathe (hand drill) and sanded down the shafts, then used a knife to flatten the oar blades. Here are the first seven test-fit on the vessel:
 

 
I'll certainly stain and weather these, but it's fun to see them in place.
 
And here's a shot of the sail propped up in roughly the right position:
 

 
When it's installed for real, I'll bend it more so it isn't so two-dimensional. But this gets the idea across.
 
 

The Ontario is just $500 if you buy direct from the MFG.  Shipping wont cost you $400.  It all depends on how much the kit is marked up by a distributor and what the wholesale cost it.   Remember too that the Cheerful isnt a kit.   You will need a table saw to rip your own planks which reduces the cost of parts.  All told about $500 rigged for Cheerful also.
 
In addition you need to look at the wood types.   Niagara is all basswood which is very cheap wood.  Better woods like Yellow cedar and boxwood used for Cheerful will add costs. Lots of it....
 
Shop around for prices.....and consider the quality of the contents.  Also check the build logs here for those kits to see if it is well designed and made of good materials.  What are castings like?   Good quality resin castings.....brass turned guns or awful white metal castings.
 
Lots to consider beyond size.
 
Chuck
 
 
 

Quint’s fighting chair. Fishing rod to do. 😊

ENDURANCE by OcCre
1/70 scale
MSRP €159.95
 

Image courtesy of OcCre
 
All images by author except where noted.
 
Sir Ernest Shackleton’s Endurance scarcely needs an introduction to nautical history enthusiasts. Launched in 1912, two years later she set sail for Antarctica with Shackleton and 27 others aboard for what was intended to be a transcontinental crossing of Antarctica via the South Pole. Instead, Endurance became stuck in pack ice in January of 1915 and eventually sank the following November. In April of 1916, Shackleton and several crew members set off for South Georgia in one of Endurance’s boats. They reached the island two weeks later and crossed a mountain range to reach the island’s whaling station. A rescue party was sent to fetch Shackleton’s remaining crew. Miraculously, everyone survived.
 
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/7/7f/Endurance3.jpg
Endurance trapped in the ice. Photo courtesy of Wikipedia (public domain).
 
Over the years, this forum has seen numerous folks pine for a kit of Endurance, and now OcCre has responded. The kit is in 1/70 scale and carries an MSRP of €159.95, which in today’s market has to be considered a bargain. I was very interested in doing this review because of the striking look of the prototype model, the fame of the subject, and the fact that the ship is not a man-of-war (hence no tedious cannon to rig) and carries a barkentine rig, which is one of my favorites. Let’s dive in, shall we?
 
First Impressions
 
Endurance was shipped by FedEx Economy and made the trip from Spain to South Carolina in one week. I was a bit alarmed to see that the exterior shipping box had one corner completely stove in – it had obviously been dropped from some height and landed directly on that corner. Opening the box revealed that the kit had been shipped sans packing material, which is not the greatest way to do business, IMO. However, the kit box was not damaged during transit, despite the smashed corner.
 
I’ve never built an OcCre kit before, nor even seen one in person, but I liked the look of the kit box, with a nice shot of the prototype model and a window through which one can see the fittings box. On closer inspection, I discovered that the “box art” is actually a printed sheet that is glued to a generic box cover. I suspect that this is why OcCre kits aren’t built to any standard scale; like the old “yellow box” kits from Model Shipways, OcCre kits are probably built to whatever scale will allow the kit to fit into a standard-sized box – 1/70 scale in this case.
 

 
Opening the box revealed that although some of the contents could slide around a bit, they had been taped, shrink-wrapped, and compartmentalized  in such a way that any potential for damage was really rather slight.
 

 
Paper Stuff: Plans and Instructions
 
Someone unfamiliar with OcCre might initially be alarmed upon reading the instructions – there essentially aren’t any, at least not in written form. Apart from a single paragraph about what to do before starting assembly, the written instructions consist of one sheet (in a choice of languages).
 
(Apologies for the purplish tint -- I'm limited by the capabilities of my photography equipment.)

 

 
But have no fear! What the kit lacks in written instructions, it more than makes up for in photo instructions. And in addition, OcCre provides a series of online video tutorials for the kit, which you can preview here. Let’s look at some examples from the photo instructions. BTW, the instructions, as well as the drawings, are bound with only a couple of staples. It’s not high-quality binding, but it does allow everything to easily be laid flat by simply removing the staples.
 

 
Here you can see that the photo instructions are very detailed; no step is left uncovered. You can also see that the construction method is typical plank-on-bulkhead, but there are some nice touches. The deck is planked in such a way that small slots are left on the underside; these fit over the ears on each bulkhead, so that the entire structure is strengthened and locked in place.
 

 
The directions for planking present a Mastini-like simplified method, which can be forgiven considering that the hull is intended to be painted. Of note on this sheet is the kit’s method for dealing with the ship’s round stern; it is built up bread-and-butter style and sanded to the correct shape.
 

 
Apart from decking and planking, nearly all of the ship’s upper works are built from laser-cut parts, rather like a large jigsaw puzzle. I believe that this, along with the simple rig and lack of armament, makes the kit doable for an intermediate builder.
 

 
A last shot of the hull instructions, mainly to show the construction of the chainplates, which, surprisingly, are made from brown rigging cord.
 
Drawings
 
The kit includes a complete set of 1:1 masting and spar drawings, as well as a 1:1 set of sail drawings.
 

 

 
The instructions for rigging consist of a separate set of drawings. Fine points of mast and spar construction are covered, with different drawings depicting standing rigging, running rigging, and belaying plan.
 

 

 
Finally, the paper bits include a parts list, a key to the parts billets, and a color code for use with Vallejo paints and OcCre stains.
 

 

 

 
Parts
 
The various parts billets come in a shrink-wrapped bundle and consist of parts cut from walnut, plywood, or MDF. All of the billets arrived perfectly flat, the wood is of good quality, and the laser-cutting is very well done, with fine, sharp lines and minimal reverse-side charring.
 

 

 

The walnut sheet includes parts for a display cradle.
 

 
The shrink-wrapped bundle includes an etched brass sheet that includes ladders, recessed door panels, trailboards, and ship’s name.
 

 
Two bundles of good-quality strip wood and one of strip wood and dowels are included; the strips are nicely dimensioned and free of fuzzy edges, and the dowels are straight.
 

 

 
Fittings
 
A single, compartmented plastic box contains the fittings. The box was taped to prevent its contents from spilling during shipment.
 

 
The largest compartment contains a fret of PE brass parts, three spools of 0.50 mm brown cord, various diameters of brass wire, a flag, a sheet of acetate for glazing windows, and cast metal davits, anchors, and stocks. The castings are free of flash.
 

 
Other wood or metal fittings include cast metal bollards, fairleads, cowl vents, rudder hardware, binnacles, ship’s wheel, propeller, wood and metal capstan and windlass parts, and brass chain. Again, the castings are of good quality.
 

 
The rest of the fittings box is filled with garden-variety wood and metal parts: blocks, deadeyes, mast hoops, belaying pins, eyebolts, nails, etc.
 

 
Finally, a sealed envelope contains the remaining seven spools of rigging cord (one brown, six tan), which I was surprised to discover were all of the same diameter (0.15 mm), and a full suit of pre-sewn sails. The sails have the usual sort of heavy seam stitching typically found on such items. I don’t particularly like them and would probably opt to replace them, but for someone not inclined to put in that sort of effort, they will certainly suffice.
 

 
Overall Impressions
 
The new OcCre Endurance is not what one would call a great kit, but it is by no means a bad kit either. OcCre have economized here and there, as evidenced by such things as off-the-shelf fittings, providing only two diameters of rigging cord, and supplying less-than-convincing pre-sewn sails. Cost-cutting measures such as these succeed in making the kit affordable -- after all, top-end kits usually fetch top dollar – or Euro – don’t they? In other respects the kit is quite good, e.g. the thorough photo instructions, good quality wood, and excellent laser cutting. As I said earlier, I believe this kit can be built by an intermediate builder, and it will undoubtedly produce a nice-looking model right out of the box. However, with a bit of extra research and some kit-bashing, I have no doubt that the kit could form the basis for quite an excellent model. For the price and for the generally good quality (not to mention the unique subject), if not for the level of detail, the OcCre Endurance can be recommended to any interested builder.
 
 
Thanks go to OcCre for sending out this review example. Endurance may be purchased directly from OcCre or from one of their regional distributors.

I've been using a tablesaw for hobbies on and off for 50 years and I never felt comfortable using one. I was looking at the saw today and it dawned on me. If I lower The blade and slide the fence over to the other side the saw becomes left handed. What  a treat! Now every thing feels right. Something you righties might not think about is how lefties go through their lives making right handed stuff work. Because of that I never even gave a tablesaw a second thought. Now I just have to make sure I don't get too comfortable. After 73 years I've still got all ten fingers and I'd like to keep it that way.

Brian, don't sell yourself short. If the end result is as good as the now, I think they'ed be happy to have your model provided they have the space to display it. 

Pleased with this! 

More bits and pieces 👍

Hello again everyone,
 
Time for another update. Things have slowed down a bit since the weather has turned nice. Lot's of projects around the the property that need tending to before the Texas summer heat sets in.
 
With this update I was able to finish work on the aft bulwarks. I fashioned these out of one piece of poplar and carved out the fairleads in pretty much the same way that I did the forward ones.
 
Roughed out shape and pinned to a board to make it easier to work with.

 
Fairleads starting to take shape.

 
Final shaping and sanding.

 
Bulwarks installed on the hull and rollers in place (I did go back and set that right pin flush. I just didn't notice it until after the picture was taken).

 
and the finished install.

 
 
 
 
Next it was on to the preheaters and some of the plumbing.
 
I built the preheaters the same way that I did the boilers. These were made from a 3/4" dowel that I wrapped with aluminum tape with imprinted rivets. These did not survive the salvage so it was pretty much guesswork as to how they actually looked. I used the example from Adam L. Kane's The Western River Steamboat book as my template for these features along with the plumbing diagram in the HSR.
 
The finished preheaters.

 
For the plumbing I used different size styrene rods. To shape them I held the rods over a soldering iron to soften them up. Then I just bent them to shape. I used small rings of heat shrink to simulate the fitting collars to give it a little extra detail.

 

 

 

 
Once these were all built up, they were installed. I temporarily installed a roof beam to line up the pipes where I will eventually place the pipe hangers.

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 
Then it was on to the armor casemate plating on the port and starboard sides.
 
According to the HSR, the armor plating was not only on the side casemates, but also extended 55" down the hull to protect it below the waterline. I'm not sure why, but this lower armor did not make to the display in Vicksburg.
 
Marking the 55" line on the hull (this equated to 29mm)  below the knuckle.

 
Since the actual plates were shiplap, they did not butt up against each other and there was a slight gap in between each plate. I made up a little jig with a .5mm shim to give it the equal spacing.

 
Next it was on to the upper armor plates.

 
On the actual boat, the armor plates did not line up exactly with the gun ports so they placed a small filler piece on the sides of the gun port frame to give it full protection.

 

 
Once the plates were installed, I made up another jig to line up all of the bolt/rivet holes that held the plates in place.

 
Then it was time to experiment. I wasn't exactly sure how I was going to simulate the bolts/rivets until I got to playing around with the styrene on the plumbing. Before I used the soldering gun to soften the plastic I tried my heat gun. This spread the heat over too big of an area, but on my attempt I noticed that the heat gun made a nice mushroomed head on the end of the styrene rod. The light then came on and I though, hey what a perfect way to make rivet heads. So I proceeded to experiment with some smaller styrene rod. The bolts/rivets holding the plates in place were approximately 3/4" which translated to .040". So I drilled a piece of scrap wood with a .040" bit, placed a piece of styrene rod in the hole and heated the end of it. I experimented with several lengths extending out of the wood in order to get the right size head on the bolt/rivet and finally settled on the 1mm length. I think this worked perfectly.

 

 
Once I had found the length that I liked, it was on to filling all the holes.

 
Once the holes were all filled, I went back a trimmed them all to equal lengths. I glued a 1mm strip of scrap to each jaw of my flush cut pliers and trimmed the excess off of each rod.

 

 
 
Once they were all trimmed, next came the heat.

 
And viola, 540 bolts/rivets installed.

 
Once the starboard side was complete, it was on to the port side. This side was a little more challenging, since I had to cut out around the viewport.

 
Still no big deal, just a little extra patience and that side was done to.

 
Now all I have left is to mark and drill all the holes and finish this side.
 
 
 
Well, that is all for now. I'm going to finish up on the armor plating on the port side and start on the forward plates. 
 
Until next time, thank you all for looking, the kind comments and likes.
 
Stay safe and well.
 
-Brian

As a professional conservator I probably land on the more conservative side of this discussion.   Many of the materials being used today, especially on model ships, make me cringe.  The coatings, the glues, the plastics and display scenarios are all either not well vetted or are just what is practical (vs. ideal).   The worst are those that use really modern materials to provide an easier building experience.   There is no such thing as archival quality anything - given the right scenario all things will deteriorate.  This becomes even more complex as we combine many different materials into a compound object of organic and inorganic materials.    The best "archival" acrylic paints were never tested in combination with highly acidic woods - etc.   That paint may be red forever, but it may also end up as red flakes at the bottom of your display case...     Those decals and such will just be brown in 15 years, or worse will be brown on one side and white on the other.     Its very hard to predict how an object will age, but it is very easy to make the right decisions early and be knowledgable of inherent vice.     
 
All this to say that I cringe only because I know the time and care put into these objects, and its difficult not to get up on a soapbox every time I see something I know with absolute authority will not last.   We have to decide for ourselves, few will end up in a museum, and even fewer of us will have grandchildren who want these things laying around so I say enjoy what you are doing now, and forget the rest 🙃

I watched the entirety of your presentation last night Eric and thoroughly enjoyed it.  A nice overview of the subject and does what all successful lectures/talks do in that it stimulates the desire to learn more.  Your passion for the topic is palpable and the organization and pace of your presentation I thought was just excellent.  I also appreciate that you did not tip-toe around the catastrophic damage caused to the native tribes and environment by this activity.  I have attended more than one historical presentation where the speaker has cherry-picked information to give less than a complete account on the subject.  Great talk.
 
Thanks for sharing your presentation with us here on the MSW forum.
 
Gary

Hi Eric,
 
I just got through watching your riverboat presentation. It was fascinating and you did a great job. The moderator kind of summed it up for me at the end when he said that he felt like he had just read an entire book on the subject in just one hour. Unfortunately I was unable to stick around for the Q & A session but I plan on watching this again on the recording on the you tube channel.
 
Many thanks.
 
Bob

Hello again everyone.
 
Time for another quick update.
 
More progress was made this week on the some of the machinery and other deck features. I started this week off with the bilge pump. 
 
First I turned down the pump body.

 
Next I cut out the base and the brass features. These consisted of the pump tubes and flanges as well as the portion.

 
Piecing the lower portions together.

 
Next I cut out the center support and test fit it for alignment with the sucker rods.

 
The sucker rods were then installed, the pump body was shaped to receive the pump handle assembly.

 
Pump handle installed.

 
Then everything was put into place and glued together.

 
Finally a coat of black paint, some stain for the handle and the whole thing coated with satin varnish.

 
 
Next assembly was the capstan. Again, I turned the main body of the assembly down on the lathe.

 
Next I installed the drum "fins" of the capstan.

 

 
I placed the assembly back in the lathe to shape the drum.

 
Next I carved out the holes for the capstan bars, then assembled the bottom gear. This was done by using 1/16"x 1/16" styrene that I filed the grooves in. I then heated the gear then wrapped and glued it in place. The heating wasn't really necessary, I just didn't want to risk the plastic snapping and have to go back and refile all those teeth.

 
Then came the small drive gear. Same concept on the gear teeth, only I used a wooden bead for the base, filed the teeth then capped it off with a thin piece of scrap wood.

 

 
Then all the pieces painted black and varnished and temp installed in position.

 
Next on the assembly list were the interior walls that close off the engine room and provide a sound barrier. There is no documentation on this partition other than some of the lateral section drawings in the HSR. Most of this section was destroyed during the recovery when the cable slings cut through the hull and casemates. This is also the area where the "Doctor" pump was located. I'm guessing that when the lifting cable cut through, it ripped the "Doctor" from its mounts, it fell through the opening, then settled to the bottom of the river where it was buried in the mud and silt, never to be found. I figured that I would again take my builders liberties and add them since there seems to be some resemblance of them in the HSR.
 
The basic structures.

 

 
Door and lighting installed. I didn't take too many pictures of these since they were pretty much straight forward.

 
After creating a bunch of sawdust, I wanted to take a break from it and focus on more of the lighting and wiring. I didn't want to get too far ahead of myself and not have room enough to get my hands in the deck area to place the wiring and LED's.
 
Just a few quick shots of the wires being installed.

 
All of the LED's will be run with the red and white wiring and the supply wiring is the black and green.

 
At first I was going to keep all of the wiring confined to the boat, but I couldn't come up with a good way to store the battery and actuate the lighting like I did on my Chaperon. So instead I decided that I would have the switch and battery installed in the base. This way once I build the display case I would have to keep removing the glass to show the lighting. So I ran the wiring down to where one of the pedestal mounts will be. I will then hollow out the support and run the wires to a location yet to be determined on the base.

 
And here she is at night with a test of some of the lighting. There will be more lights installed, I just wanted to see what it looked like lit up at night.

 
 
And finally here is how she sits as of today, Still a long way to go, but she's coming along.

 
 
Now to a question for the experts. My next project is to work on getting some of the steam piping installed for the boilers, engines and "Doctor" pump. In the HSR there is a Propulsion System Schematic of how the steam lines are run, and I will do my best to somewhat replicate this (for what will be seen anyway). In the diagram it shows two pre-heaters in line with the "Doctor" pump and the engines. Since these were lost during the recovery as well, there is no documentation of these either, but I am going to represent them as best as I can. The crew building the St. Louis have a basic mock up of these in there build log photos and they show them mounted above the "Doctor" which is where I intend to place mine.

 
The questions that I have are this: Were these pre-heaters basically "mini boilers", whos primary use was to make sure that the main boilers didn't have to work as hard to create steam, but instead of a fire box to heat the cold river water they used steam from the engine exhaust? and were they pretty much built similar to the main boilers?
 
I have tried looking on the internet for info on them, but can't seem to find anything that helps. I have been diligently looking for a copy of Alan L. Bates: The Western Rivers Engineroom Cyclopedium, but so far no luck on that search either.
 
Anyhow, thank you all for stopping by and for the kind words and likes.
 
-Brian
 

Hi Eric,
 
I just got through watching your riverboat presentation. It was fascinating and you did a great job. The moderator kind of summed it up for me at the end when he said that he felt like he had just read an entire book on the subject in just one hour. Unfortunately I was unable to stick around for the Q & A session but I plan on watching this again on the recording on the you tube channel.
 
Many thanks.
 
Bob

Hi Eric,
 
I just got through watching your riverboat presentation. It was fascinating and you did a great job. The moderator kind of summed it up for me at the end when he said that he felt like he had just read an entire book on the subject in just one hour. Unfortunately I was unable to stick around for the Q & A session but I plan on watching this again on the recording on the you tube channel.
 
Many thanks.
 
Bob

Your comment re IP's made me scratch my head for a minute. Then it dawned on me that it been a little over 50 years since I got my butt chewed for having a couple of those on my uniform. Funny how I remembered that but can't seem to recall what I had for dinner last night.
 
Bob

Don't forget emery boards of various sizes for use in sanding. I get mine by raiding the admirals stash when she is not looking. 
 
Bob

Watched the whole presentation this evening. Very good and eloquent. Good to see another geologist at work here and putting the technological development into its socio-economic, cultural, resource geology and ecological context. Really appreciated it.

Hi Eric,
 
I just got through watching your riverboat presentation. It was fascinating and you did a great job. The moderator kind of summed it up for me at the end when he said that he felt like he had just read an entire book on the subject in just one hour. Unfortunately I was unable to stick around for the Q & A session but I plan on watching this again on the recording on the you tube channel.
 
Many thanks.
 
Bob

Hi Eric,
 
I just got through watching your riverboat presentation. It was fascinating and you did a great job. The moderator kind of summed it up for me at the end when he said that he felt like he had just read an entire book on the subject in just one hour. Unfortunately I was unable to stick around for the Q & A session but I plan on watching this again on the recording on the you tube channel.
 
Many thanks.
 
Bob