Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hello

 

I'm going to make a second wood part from extra wood in kit . I have a paper template that I want to attach to wood I'm going to shape.

 

What type of glue do you recommend.

 

Will all purpose white glue be ok with cleanup of wood after or would you recommend another.

 

Thank you

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I attach a lot of patterns.  I need the patterns to stand up to abuse.  I use BestTest rubber cement - because I get it in pints or quarts, I also have Bestine (n-heptane) to keep it at brushing consistency.

The main trick is to use a liberal coat on both surfaces - let the thinner evaporate - then place the pattern.  It is a "get it right the first time" situation.  There is no fine tuning of the position.  Any brand name rubber cement should serve your need.  It is false economy to go generic though.

 

Long ago, before the Internet, before there was help, I used PVA for a model.  I did not know about isopropanol  being the reverse agent.  I used sandpaper to remove the pattern.  That was a serious amount of work.  But there was no problem with the pattern moving or popping up.

 

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another method is to copy the drawing and save it in any file, then insert it into a drawing program and size it to whatever scale you need if it needs to be sized.  Barring a CAD program, scan the drawing with your printer/scanner, save it in a file, then print it on label paper which you can get at any office supply store or on line.  Once printed you can then just peel off the backing of the label paper and stick on the wood. Be sure the wood is free of dust, etc.  A quick wipe with a tacky cloth or even a damp cloth (then let it dry) will make it sufficiently clean to allow the label paper to stick to the wood.  If you go this route you still have your original drawing to work with should you need it.

PLEASE take 30 SECONDS and sign up for the epic Nelson/Trafalgar project if you would like to see it made into a TV series.   Click on http://trafalgar.tv   There is no cost other than the 30 seconds of your time.  THANK YOU

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, allanyed said:

Another method is to copy the drawing and save it in any file,

Home scanners have a scale distortion factor - my guess - to make copying paper currency more difficult.

ANYWAY, if you wish a scan to print out an exact copy of the original, the scale distortion factor for your specific machine needs to be determined.  It is a constant, so determining it once is enough.  Just be sure to document it.

 

Guys here write that commercial blueprint operations provide an exact 1:1 copy.  I used a company for a NMM print color scan.  They do signs and advertising.  The color PDF - while good, also needed to be reduced to 70% to match the original.

 

There is also a "maybe" method - it did not work well enough for me - inkjet(?) print on a sheet of paper with wax/plastic coating on one side and iron that directly onto the wood.  Probably works better for scroll cutting cartoons - something without a lot of detail.

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use 3M 45 spray adhesive.  Think of it as contact cement in a rattle can.  I remove the residual glue with a razor blade.  Just be sure to use it outside.

Toni


Chairman Nautical Research Guild

Member Nautical Research and Model Society

Member Midwest Model Shipwrights

 

Current Builds:     NRG Rigging Project

Completed Builds: Longboat - 1:48 scale       HMS Atalanta-1775 - 1:48 scale       Half Hull Planking Project      Capstan Project     Swallow 1779 - 1:48 scale               Echo Cross Section   

Gallery:  Hannah - 1:36 scale.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Jaager said:

Home scanners have a scale distortion factor - my guess - to make copying paper currency more difficult.

I have an Epsom scanner that doesn't induce distortion.  Real easy to check - make a scan at 100% print it out at 100% and then using a light box or window hold the copy over the original to see how close it is.  I have checked and the copy is identical.  It's a home type with a maximum copy size of 9 x 14.

Kurt Van Dahm

Director

NAUTICAL RESEARCH GUILD

www.thenrg.org

SAY NO TO PIRACY. SUPPORT ORIGINAL IDEAS AND MANUFACTURERS

CLUBS

Nautical Research & Model Ship Society of Chicago

Midwest Model Shipwrights

North Shore Deadeyes

The Society of Model Shipwrights

Butch O'Hare - IPMS

Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, kurtvd19 said:

I have checked and the copy is identical. 

I guess I am just unlucky, but my Brother unit requires anything scanned to be scaled up 102.5%.

I used a transparent metric ruler as a scan object and print out check.

I also had to set a canvas size in Painter that does not give or entice Windows Photo Viewer to "adjust" the size of a document to be printed.  Having the border thing checked by default is an extra click that I have to always pay attention to.

Edited by Jaager

NRG member 45 years

 

Current:  

HMS Centurion 1732 - 60-gun 4th rate - Navall Timber framing

HMS Beagle 1831 refiit  10-gun brig with a small mizzen - Navall (ish) Timber framing

The U.S. Ex. Ex. 1838-1842
Flying Fish 1838  pilot schooner -  framed - ready for stern timbers
Porpose II  1836  brigantine/brig - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers
Vincennes  1825  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers assembled, need shaping
Peacock  1828  Sloop-of -War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Sea Gull  1838  pilot schooner -  timbers ready for assembly
Relief  1835  ship - timbers ready for assembly

Other

Portsmouth  1843  Sloop-of-War  -  timbers ready for assembly
Le Commerce de Marseilles  1788   118 cannons - framed

La Renommee 1744 Frigate - framed - ready for hawse and stern timbers

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...