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king derelict

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Everything posted by king derelict

  1. Following Keiths timely reminder I air brushed a blue filter over the hull. Once again I thought I had made matters worse. It is very blue until it is completely dry and then just seems to shade the greys. I think it looks quite reasonable now for a well worn vessel. I think I will press on with some rust washes around the hatches and fittings. I'll be missing for a couple of weeks now. I'm heading over for a family holiday in the North Wales and then for a different rainy location in the English Lake District then a side tour to see a bit of history in Berlin and Warsaw -. Not to mention Cumberland sausage, Kielbasa and currywurst oh and maybe the occasional beer. I will look again at the X craft when I get back and see if I still like the appearance. Please let me know if it looks too excessively weathered. Thanks for looking in Alan
  2. Thank you Keith That could be the way forward. I had planned to use a blue filter but sort of forgot again o thanks for bringing it up. That might modulate the chipping and get the result I want. Alan
  3. I added a few shades of lighter grey and some rust to the hull prior to chipping. The chipping solution was then sprayed on and the dark grey top coat air brushed once it was dry. I am not sure if I was a bit quick starting to work on chipping back the top coat and the paint hadn't hardened as much as when I tried the process on the Seehund. It seemed to cut back much faster and with the watery residue on the hull it was hard to see how much I had removed. I may have been too enthusiastic and taken too much off/ I wa rather startled when I looked at the results but its starting to grow on me. Please let me know if you think it is too much. I'm tempted to go back to chipping solution and top coast and try again. I'm grateful for any comments here. Thank you all for looking in and the likes and comments Alan
  4. Thank you very much Keith That makes more sense. It also explains why the colour has gradually changed since the bag has been open. Thank you for the explanation Alan
  5. That jig looks like a useful piece of kit for getting the wings properly set up Its looking great Craig. Congratulations. Alan
  6. I changed my mind and added the saddle mines. I thought it would be easier to pain. I don't plan to weather the mines as much as the hull. All the parts are now in place except for the periscopes and snorkel. They are a bit delicate and I don't want to damage them during enthusiastic weathering. A coat of Mig One Shot black primer has been air brushed onto the model and next will be some grey shades to set the hull up for chipping. I see suggestions that the x craft were black, I've also seen dark grey or grey / black. I think I will be going with the dark grey. Thanks for looking in and for the likes Alan
  7. Thanks Rob The tankies look great. Just what I wanted. Alan
  8. I'm realising that I am a complete amateur at stocking up on kits🙂 Alan
  9. The 1/35 8 inch howitzer looks great. I'm sure there is room on the shelf (or the cupboard or ....) Alan
  10. Thank you very much Rob. I'll look at the White Stork offerings. Alan
  11. Thank you EG. I need to up my game and get to work on some 1/35 stuff. This howitzer would look really nice in 1/35. The detail would step up an order. Alan
  12. I added the majority of the Eduard PE. Its all flat stuff; no bending or unpleasantness. The plastic build continues with the rear supports, the diving planes and rudder and the linkages. The linkages are really nice and could probably be made to operate but I decided not to explore the idea The linkages are only present on the starboard side so I'll need to do a bit of filling and filing on the port side where the locating slots are not used. I drilled out the remaining drain / vent holes There are quite a few details still to add. I think I will leave the saddle mines off until I have painted and weathered the hull. I would imagine the mines would look a bit fresher than the submarine itself. This is a very nice kit for fit and quality of the parts. I'm not sure the Eduard PE is really necessary; the kits own PE covers a lot of the spots anyway. Thanks for looking in and the likes. Alan
  13. Thanks Ken I may try to mask a bit f the painted sections during the primer and initial colour layers so some of the PE colour comes through later during chipping and weathering. Alan
  14. Thank you very much EG. There are some weird and wonderful attempts at complicated camouflage schemes towards the end of the war with the British bringing artists in to create paint schemes. Some are incredibly detailed and complicated dazzle style schemes. In the end they mostly got covered in mud anyway. Alan
  15. I'm regretting not getting the Lancaster now Alan
  16. That cockpit is absolutely beautiful Alan
  17. I now have the Eduard PE for the X craft and it looks very nice. I'm a little puzzled why the deck parts are already painted. It would seem that they get fitted before the primer so will be covered. also some parts are part painted and part bare brass. Again the Eduard brass seems nice and "dead" and cuts easily. I added most of the deck parts. I had been holding off on building up any more of the model in case there was a conflict with the kit parts but looks like the PE just enhances rather than replaces.so I will return to the plastic now The hatches are quite nice with PE handles Thanks for looking in and the likes and comments Alan
  18. I broke a lot working on the corvette. Unexpected break though into the mesh below the parts surface would snap them. They are nice and sharp so I persevere Alan
  19. I bought about three sets and now have about one sets worth. They don't like any side load Alan
  20. Thank you very much as always EG I spent a lot of the morning reading various opinions and looking at museum sites. There are a myriad opinions out there and some pretty limited hard information for the later years of the war. The hard facts I found are. Britain ran out of chromate based paints by mid war and that stopped them making deep greens. Instead they were forced to use ochre based colours which produced greeny browns, browny greens, khaki and browns. The tank in the Brussels museum (which supposedly has original paint) and the tank models from 1918 at the UK tank museum are brown (described as a chocolate brown. It seems that this is such a vexed subject that some modellers will not touch WW1 vehicles for fear of being wrong. It seems to me that you can actually plough ahead within reason without much fear of being proved to be wrong. For reasons that soon will become apparent my little set piece is spring of 1918 or a little later. So I plan to use a series of colours for the various parts ranging through from a modified olive drab to brown. I think its unrealistic to have the FWD, caisson and gun all exactly the same colour. Its likely they were drawn from artillery parks and not necessarily kept together from their initial debut. This is likely to revert to a background project now that the X craft can be worked on. Alan
  21. Thank you very much OC It looks nicer than I thought initially. It was a pretty basic kit Alan
  22. I resisted until Sunday evening and then somehow a 1/35 Rye Field Model Leopard fell into the cart as well. I still feel virtuous because I ignored the HK 1/48 Lancaster that was nudging me as well Alan
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