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king derelict

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Everything posted by king derelict

  1. The later attempt at hull section #8 with a slower initial speed completed yesterday afternoon with a good result. The build supports can be seen in the photo and were easily removed. However the slicer elected to put a support right down the ridder post and fiddling with the angle at which a support is invoked failed to remove it so I let it print. It may prove interesting to remove but that's what drills are for if necessary. Today I was able to print the first part of the stern without any adjustments to the bed which confirms my private theory that smaller prints nearer the centre of the bed are less susceptible to levelling problems. The second part of the stern has begun, also without any adjustments prior to print and the first spool of filament is nearing its end. Three more large hull sections to complete but today has been almost restful as the printer works well within its abilities (and mine) Thanks to checking in Alan
  2. Thanks Yves, I was wondering bout temperature variability across the bed. I'm tending to let the bed soak in preheat for a while before starting a print to try to ensure an even temperature across the bed. I've ordered the flexible magnetic bed print surface as recommended by Craig Alan
  3. It looks great. Very natural weathering. What a recovery! I think its a required skill to be able to recover from the unexpected. Alan
  4. This morning the completed hull section #7 was waiting for me. I launched the print of hull section #8 and was disappointed to find that the level had shifted and the print at the front right corner was not sticking because the nozzle was too far from the bed. It took eight or nine attempts before a good looking start was achieved. Unfortunately after a couple of hours I noticed that the right side of the print was deformed and raised up from the bed. I could see light under the bowed section so it wasn't going to be rectified by a bit of putty so I stopped the print and restarted it with a slower initial speed. The support piece which was printing in the middle of the bed was perfect which confirms my thoughts that the level accuracy is more acute out at the edges of the bed. I haven't developed a theory on why the right side got deformed other than it looks like the brim was lifting from the bed and resulted in warping. The learning curve remains at quite a gradient. Alan
  5. Thanks Yves I will look at that. I feel like I shouldn't get leveling issues from one print to the next. There has to be some flex or freedom somewhere that can be locked down. Alan
  6. OC I completely agree with you. The enjoyment is seeing the model come together and feeling good about how it looks as each stage is worked on. This has been a bit overwhelming to start with just because its so big but I am enjoying taking each element and working on it and I really don't worry about when it will be completed. Its the journey and not the destination. I still get a big kick from seeing a nicely folded piece of PE installed and thinking how good it looks. As you say then it gets stuck in a display case and I'm finding it a challenge to find space for them. This build has taught me a lot about working on bigger models and I think I will be more confident with the Hood and Prince of Wales
  7. I think the ant died of boredom waiting for the print to finish. I missed the ant in the photos; we seem to be finding one or two a day at present. The hot and wet days I suppose. The pest guy sprayed and they are turning up dead now and hopefully will go away. Alan
  8. Thank you for the kind words of support OC. There have been a few moments when I have considered packing it all up and putting it in the back of the cupboard. I think I understand how to correct the bed when it is out of level but I still don't understand why it persists in going out of level. More research and trials ahead Alan
  9. Thank you OC. Sometimes it feels like I'm flailing around in this build without achieving much; there is just so much to this kit. Huge parts count, wooden decks, lots of PE and a real exercise in working out the build sequence. Anyway its supposed to be fun not a time and motion study. Alan
  10. Thanks Mark He has created similar works for Ligny and Quatre Bras on the same website. Well worth a look in an idle moment. Alan
  11. He lives in Bennos Figures Forum Benno's Figures Forum • Antietam 17th September 1862 (bennosfiguresforum.com) I hope its OK to provide the link Alan
  12. Progress continues but at the speed of printing. Adding the supports increased the build time so we are still working away on hull section 7. As you can see it will be a day and a half marathon when completed. The support structure for the prop tunnel finishes at the dotted line about halfway up and the tunnel itself is the upper section Thanks for looking Alan
  13. Thanks Ron I wanted to document the holes in the road that I fell into that Yves skills and research kept him out of. Ultimately I hope it will become a proper ships build log but I wanted to address how I got there and the effort and learning that it took. Alan
  14. Thanks Craig; I'll keep an eye on them I think the items you mention are probably areas where there is some compromise in a hobby machine and capable of improvement. Watching the vertical rod for run out it appears to be straight but I am learning that these machines are all about small errors. Also probably why you can spent $800 on a machine instead of $200 Alan
  15. Today was a monster grey spray day. The hull grey was sprayed (on the hull) and the superstructure modules and components got the light grey treatment and emptied my bottle of light grey. The masks were taken off and the hull and some structure is now ready for the wooden decks and then more detail and PE as they get built up. The fine detail and PE that Flyhawk puts in their models is starting so show nicely. Thanks for looking and have a great weekend Alan
  16. Thank you for the kind words OC. I'm using the Vallejo black primer. I have their grey too but I like the black with thin layers of the final coat it seems to give some shading and depth to the model. I air brush it undiluted or with a few drops of their thinner. It doesn't need much thinner at all. Alan
  17. Hi OC I expect you already know but there is a guy called Chris Dodson on a miniatures / war gaming forum who builds massive battle dioramas in 28mm I think (currently building Antietam. He has some interesting ideas for ground cover. May be worth a look. Alan
  18. Thank you for the kind words OC. I'm using the Vallejo black primer. I have their grey too but I like the black with thin layers of the final coat it seems to give some shading and depth to the model. I air brush it undiluted or with a few drops of their thinner. It doesn't need much thinner at all. Alan
  19. The slate floor looks like the real thing. I hadn't appreciated the size of the farm. This will be a spectacular diorama. Alan
  20. The learning experience continues but there was some positive progress to help my sanity This morning I was very happy to find the print for hull section #3 had successfully completed. I sliced the file for section 7 and set the printer in motion. I initially used the Crealty slicer and set a skirt but it seems the program allows a skirt which is too large for the bed and the result is a tangle so I returned to the Cura slicer and a 6mm brim to help the part adhere to the bed. I was thrilled to find that the print looked good at the first attempt and I left it to its own devices. Driving to Aldi to buy coffee a little later it occurred to me that this was the section that has the propeller tunnel begin in mid section. This meant the printer was probably going to try to build the circular section in mid air and that was unlikely to end well. In hind sight the same problem was present with section #1 where there is a section of deck. I had been a bit disappointed to find a few layers of the deck to be loose and for some reason it didn't occur to me that the printer was extruding the filament without a surface to stick to and build from. I think I escaped lightly on this one probably because it was a straight line piece. Hopefully it will be salvageable. I couldn't see the printer coping with a mid air circular section so I reluctantly stopped the print which was looking nice. I went back to Cura and added supports and sliced again. Again (I'm almost afraid to say it) the print started well on the first attempt and is now in progress with supports in place. So I lost a few hours and a few metres of filament but at least I didn't let the whole thing print off. As I said above I'm almost scared to think about it too much but if I now have the bed reliably levelled it is going to make this project a lot more fun. Thanks for looking in Alan
  21. Yesterday I started primer coast. I haven't used this much primer in a single session before and there are still a few parts still to do. Looking where I am with the build I think Flyhawk provided the parts for Scharnhorst as well so I think there will be some unused parts. Today the dark grey went onto the metal decks and the gun turret tops. Some light grey on the secondary armaments and small deck fittings. I masked the wooden deck areas so the wooden deck will be sticking to the bare plastic rather than paint. I'm hoping that will improve adhesion. I don't know if that is really necessary but I didn't want to mess up the wooden decks Next up will be masking the dark grey areas and painting the hull grey and superstructure before returning to building up details. Thanks for looking Alan
  22. Yves She is looking spectacular as the paint and details are added. Its an inspiration for me flailing around in the trenches. Alan
  23. Craig She looks great. The details are so neat and clean - and there are a lot of them. I'm hoping the Geisenau will break me in for attempting the Hood when it arrives. Alan
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