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king derelict

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  1. king derelict
    The resin fully hardened and I'm very happy with that part of the diorama. The effect of depth came out nicely. I had to sand back the front of the diorama because of the bulge in the dam caused by the weight of the resin but it now fits well into the display case. I added a rim of gloss Mod podge along the coast and blew it around with the airbrush to get some random ripples. Its not very visible but it breaks up the transition to the lighter colours of the shallow water. Penelope will now be added and I'm look at working with the anchor chains to finalise the build. Thanks Alan
  2. king derelict
    After a pause at the weekend I made some progress. I fitted teh running gear into the tracks and added the assemblies to the hull which completes the build. I touched up paint; added detail painting and a light wash to bring up some of the panels and track details. I added a small amount of rust on the lower part of the hull and the trail. I didn't want to really overdo the weathering. I'll look at it again tomorrow but I'm inclined to add the decals and leave it as shown here. Thqanks Alan
  3. king derelict
    That looks really nice. I think you carried off the camouflage better than I did. The next one might have to be the US or French version Alan
  4. king derelict
    A perfect miniature staircase. Its hard to believe it all started with lollypop sticks. Thiws interior is going to be a piece of art. Alan
  5. king derelict
    Last lap with the masking. The M5 blue grey paint. More masking added. The poor thing is buried under tape. The M5 is sprayed on and I can start unmasking. There is a bit of cleaning up needed on one side where some paint escaped but should only need a few touched with the brush. The photos don't really show the contrast between the three colours of the hull and superstructure; the light grey and grey green look very similar. I'll have to play with the lighting a bit. The small details can be added now which will dress her up a bit. I also want to see if there is anything that can be added to the bridge. It is a bit bare but looking at the reference book; they were a bit bare. Watch keeping in the Western Approaches on a rainy night must have been less than enchanting. Thanks for looking Alan
  6. king derelict
    I know. I keep thinking that there must be an easier way that I'm missing. I imagine everyone shaking their heads and wondering why I am doing this.
  7. king derelict
    I masked up the hull, turret and running gear for the olive drab paint. I used the same method as I have on the small destroyers to get a starting point. I scaled the Flyhawk illustration up to the same size as the model and printed it along with a reverse image (I only have one side illustrated) The relevant parts were then glued to masking tape and cut out. That gave me some idea of the layout on the sides and then I filled in across the turret and upper hull. Some of it is simplified because it will be hidden by the tracks. It looks a bit untidy but it seemed functional Then the olive drab And the big moment; pulling the masks off. It came out quite well and captures the intent of the paint scheme even though it might be a bit out on the details The tracks can now be fitted to the running gear and these assemblies will go onto the hull. Some detailed painting and restrained weathering and I think that is all it needs. Fun little build. Thanks for looking Alan
  8. king derelict
    Thank you for the help with the colour schemes Egilman. That is really useful information. I'll stay with the Flyhawk colours for the US and French variants. Its also good information about the condition of the tanks in the field. I'll keep weathering and dirt down to a realistic minimum. I studied the Rif War scheme a bit further and decided on the olive drab with the grey rather than brown. The Rif is limestone with dusty green vegetation so I think this ends up being a compatible camouflage. Many thanks again; you are an invaluable source of detailed information. Alan
  9. king derelict
    It packs a lot of information into a thin volume. Its very useful and will helpo a lot with the three other FT17s I have. The colours in their illustrations are a bit more subdued than teh Flyhawk schemes so I will try to follow their examples. Thanks Alan
  10. king derelict
    The mask'n'paint continues. I masked the hull and superstructure Then sprayed the MS-3 medium grey green. When this is fully dry tomorrow I will mask for the B5 dark blue grey. That will be the final colour in the scheme so I can remove the masking and see what sort of job has resulted. Then its time to add the details Thanks Alan
  11. king derelict
    Nice work; the roof look very convincing Alan
  12. king derelict
    I sprayed the white paint onto the hull as the start of the Spanish Moroccan paint scheme. I had just cleaned the air brush and the Post arrived with this The colour illustrations show the paint scheme for the Spanish Moroccan Rif Wars but it is described as grey and olive drab. That maybe makes more sense than white as i think I recall the Rif being limestone. So I sprayed a coat of light grey over the white and we will move forward with that. I sprayed a brown base onto the tracks which I am assuming are steel and take on a rust brown colour in service. The masking of the hull and turret will be next. Interesting! Thanks Alan
  13. king derelict
    The light grey 507C paint was sprayed onto the hull and superstructure and set aside to dry for 24 hours. The kit paint scheme was scanned and reduced in size to the actual size of the hull and copied several times to become the basis for the paint masks. The first set was added to the masking tape ready to cover the 507C sections Thanks for checking in Alan
  14. king derelict
    With the diorama no longer hogging the table I was able to get back to the Kujawiak. I masked the decks in preparation for spraying the first of the hull colours, light grey 507C It then seemed like time to try the most fiddly pieces of the PE; the Oerlikon guns As the instructions show there is quite a bit of folding in a small part I decided that it might be easier to make the majority of the folds with the piece still in the fret and bent up the shields and folded the barrel and shoulder rests before cutting it free. The first attempt I cut the barrel off at the same time! Its not perfect but it will work and will look better painted and viewed with the naked eye Only one more to make! Thanks for looking in Alan
  15. king derelict
    Thank you Jack. The resin was very easy to use and cured beautifully. I think I'll add some small ripples at the cliff bases and at the bows where I hope I can show the ship at anchor Alan
  16. king derelict
    I was very happy this morning to remove the dust cover and check the resin and find it it glassy, tack free and hard. I removed the tape and cleaned up the rim that formed at the dam with a a sharp knife. I put the diorama to one side to fully cure (72 hours) before the next step but I couldn't resist seeing how HMS Penelope would look on the water It looks promising. I also checked the resin anchor chain against the foredeck and it may be a tad big (but the same size as the flat PE chain) so I think I will paint it and look at it again but it may well be useable Thanks for looking in. Alan
  17. king derelict
    Thank you Ken. I was very nervous about the resin. It seemed like an opportunity to ruin the scene with few recoveries available. Alan
  18. king derelict
    Thanks for the kind words OC. I'm really enjoying working on a new aspect of the hobby. I would like to make more dioramas but space is a major consideration.
  19. king derelict
    All those small details are going to pay off in a beautiful model Alan
  20. king derelict
    The resin pour happened this morning. I mixed one batch which hardly covered the "sea" base so without thinking I mixed up another batch of the same size; I was nervous about letting the first batch start curing and create a visible interface. I also only had the one size mixing cups at hand and it seems that accuracy in measuring resin and hardener is critical. Once I had poured the second batch I realised I had overdone things and it was too deep. The "tide" line is submerged and the weight of the resin has caused the masking tape dam to bulge which might give me problems with the fit in the display case. I had a few minor leaks past the tape (again due to too much resin but thankfully I had put some scrap card underneath which caught it all. I should have planned the pour in a little more detail and had some smaller cups ready to do small batches if necessary. The learning process continues. On the positive side I like the resin. It is very low odour, it is glass clear and it did not entrain a lot of bubbles, The few that were present after pouring were seen off with a few passes of a mini butane torch. It is supposed to cure in 24 hours so it will be interesting to check tomorrow morning. Possibly because of the extra resin I seem to have go a very nice sense of depth and I really like the reflection of the mountains in the still fjord water. I was going to add some movement to the water surface but I am not so sure now. So the cats are banned from the area until this is fully tack free. Their long and light hairs get everywhere and I'm too proud of the resin surface to risk hairs or worse paw prints. Thanks for looking Alan
  21. king derelict
    Thanks Jack.
  22. king derelict
    Thanks Craig. It will be interesting to see if resin supplants PE. The chain was probably no more expensive than a PE fret and the three dimensional look is much nicer. It takes away the PE skills needed and becomes paint and plonk in place but possibly the reality is somewhere in the middle. PE railings look great radar arrays and girders lend themselves to PE. weapons are maybe better in resin. The PE Oerlikons on Kujawiak are fiddly in the extreme and when done you still have a barrel that is noticeably flat instead of round. Alan
  23. king derelict
    Every time I end up on the floor looking for a lost part I find one or two brass 6 inch gun barrels. I'm not aware I've lost any. I think there is something under the bench making them. Id really like some 4 inch QF barrels for my destroyers though. Alan
  24. king derelict
    Meanwhile, somewhere in Norway. I added a few more white highlights and stippled white around the margins of the bare patches to blend things together. I think it looks reasonable now, I painted gloss medium into the waterfall gully and dry brushed some more on the ridges to give a bit of sparkle to the snow and ice. Its not very obvious in the photos but I like the effect in most lighting. I laid some strips of clear silicone caulk onto a bit of scrap acrylic and spread and shaped it a bit with a cocktail stick and let it dry then peeled it off Selected pieces were then laid into the gully with white glue to build up the frozen waterfall. Close up it looks quite nice but it is not as noticeable as i thought it might be at a distance. I then taped the base with masking tape to form a dam ready for the big moment - the resin pour. The bottom of the masking tape was sealed with white glue. Tomorrow is big day! On other fronts I received the YX resin 1/700 anchor chain and compared it with the PE supplied with the kit. The size is very similar so I'll look at it on the model and if it doesn't overpower the foredeck I may end up using it. Thanks for looking Alan
  25. king derelict
    Thanks Jack I've made a note of this for the next diorama. Woodland Scenics look like a great resource for diorama building. I've been watching Youtubes from Luke Towan (railroader in Australia) and High Eye Workshop in the UK and they do amazing work and make it look extremely easy. I have borrowed / adapted some of their ideas although I find it tougher to get the results than I expected in some cases. Thanks again Alan

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