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king derelict

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Everything posted by king derelict

  1. Hi Mike Sorry for the slow reply; I've been a bit all over the place in the last few days. I used an acrylic cement to build the display case. Its a solvent that welds the parts together and has no adhesive properties in its own right so its easy to clean up - it just evaporates with no apparent residue. The only downside is it will mar the acrylic sheets if there is a drop accidently spilt on it. Like plastic cement. Its very low viscosity so its applied letting capillary action draw it into the joint. Joining pieces need to be well fitting as it can't cope with gaps. It can be applied by running a hypodermic full of the cement along the joint but I find it don't have enough control and I would rather run a paint brush along the seam and work a bit slower. Alan
  2. Thank you Popeye; I think I'm getting better at masking up the subjects. Alan
  3. Thank you Edward. These are great little kits, unusual and a lot of detail in a small build. Nice for between bigger projects. Alan
  4. Thank you for the kind words Egilman. I've toned down the rust a little on the tracks. Alan
  5. The seqts look really nice OC. Great detail Alan
  6. The decals were added. I used a brown and a black wash to help the details. I used the rust brown overall for the tracks and used the Mig Oilbrushers Steel in very small amounts on the raised parts of the tracks and a few places where I though there might be wear like handles and hatches. I put a little light corrosion on the exhaust but otherwise left the hull alone. Egilman warns in earlier posts that these tanks were well maintained and kept very clean so I held back from any real weathering and damage. Thank you for the helpful comments and information. I find that due to overenthusiasm I have another box of two more FT17s so maybe I'll do a Polish one next. I hope everyone has a great weekend Alan
  7. Patrick Thank you for posting the photo. Those are great models and really interesting subjects. The Saint Chamond is especially interesting. Its huge. Alan
  8. Thank you Mark. The case will also keep fingers away from the PE mast arrays. Alan
  9. Thank you for the kind comments OC. It was an enjoyable build and I like the sea base. She now resides on my book case; well lit and next to my reading spot. Alan
  10. I added some rust around the bow area , anchor and anchor chains and I think that is the model complete. I used the Vallejo Foam Effect water texture sparingly on a few of the wave caps and the bow wave. I tried to avoid the temptation to go wild with the stuff. Its not really foamy more like a thick white paint. I used a cocktail stick to apply it. Than it was time to cat proof the whole thing and put it in its case I need to work more on sea scapes and dioramas in general but I really enjoy doing then. Thanks to everyone who contributed with tips and information. Thanks for looking in Alan
  11. Well, I stared at this for a couple of days and looked at more photos of the real Flowers and decided that the hull red doesn't extend far enough up the hull at the midships and is a touch low at the bow. I re-masked the hull and I think this is better; its more in keeping with the photos I have checked against. I've painted the masking tape line with white to seal the tape down and once dry I can spray the hull red - again. Its probably easier than going the other way and trying to lower the height of the red paint. Thanks for looking Alan
  12. Looks like a real sewn cloth seat belt. Terrific work Alan
  13. I couldn't find a 1/73 Mark V but I did find this With a crew of 17 that might fit the bill. Alan
  14. Thank you Patrick I found some Emhar Mark IVs that might work.
  15. Wow; that has a whole lot more "presence" than my Renaults. Looks great; just the right amount of dust and grime. Alan
  16. Thank you OC I think I need to work up teh courage to try to paint a couple of figures to show how small these little tanks are. Or build a Tiger for comparison Alan
  17. Today a package arrived from the nice people at Spruebrothers. The most important item in it was a bottle of Tamiya Hull Red. Figuring that the USPS had probably already done a good job of shaking the paint I loaded up the airbrush and laid the last coat on the hull. I was then able after two weeks of anticipation able to peel off the masking tape. Given the rough surface of the hull along with the panel lines I was highly nervous of this step but I was pleasantly surprised. I have a couple of very minor spots at the stern where the paint got under the tape a little but generally I am very happy. I think sealing the edge of the tape with the base colour really helped. Sorry about the dubious photos; this one is a bit bit to give the usual photo treatment to. Now I can start masking for the WA blue bits. I have two bottles waiting to be used so no problems there but I did start shimming the decsk to match up with each other and the hull and found I need a lot more plastic strips so another package is on teh way from Spruebrothers. I'm still getting used to the industrial level of logistics here Thanks for stopping by Alan
  18. Somehow it was decided that it was time to pressure wash the patio and the job spread to include the walkways and driveway. That rather cut into the day. However the running gear was installed in the tracks and the assemblies were added to the hull. Some detail painting and light weathering is next. One piece of PE, a box and a few decals and thats it. Thanks for looking in Alan
  19. Thanks Egilman. That lets me off the hook. Your knowledge is greatly appreciated. Alan
  20. Very intrigued and hoping to learn if I may Alan
  21. I use cocktail sticks and beeswax. The beeswax is a bit stickier than the candle wax so you just need to roll the tip of the toothpick / cocktail stick on the surface of the beeswax and that is usually enough to pick up and hold the PE but let it go when it is in contact with the glue. If I am feeling creative I mark the non=sticky end of the stick with a felt tip of paint and then I can keep that clean so I can reverse the stick and have a poking end to adjust the part with no danger of lifting it back off. Alan
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