king derelict

I ordered a reel of the OEM filament to see if that makes any difference.

That looks great OC Alan

Today I finished shimming the deck sections to achieve a flush and consistent level along the hull. The basic building blocks of the structures are complete and placed on the hull to determine final positioning. I have determined that I want to move the bridge, funnel and deck house back over the engine room and then reshape the aft section of the bridge deck to mimic the modified Flowers (ay least some of them). The funnel still isn't really far enough back but any further results in a short engine room and very wrong aft bridge deck so I think this is the best compromise. The photos show the deck sections in the modified position and the gap that will need to be filled with plastic sheet Thanks for looking and for all the support Alan

Hi Mark Yes, I think you are right. I have read that different brands of filament need slightly different nozzle temperatures to achieve a good performance. I spent the afternoon trying to print this - the life raft support structure I varied speed and temperature but never got close to a good print. I guess I can fabricate a structure from plastic rod but that sort of dodges the point of the model. Alan

Its a good point; I wondered if it was considered to be useful to reduce the chance of being seen by aerial reconnaissance when they were parked up behind the lines. But then netting would be better. I'm still learning a lot and it seems that there are some varied opinions out there on the British colour schemes. The Germans did use quite complex paint schemes by comparison. I think I have read that teh British abandoned repainting in green / khaki and just left them in as-delivered grey at the end. Alan

I started work on the tracks brushing some basic rust onto the tracks but leaving some paint. This is the first time I have used the Mig Track Rust and I quite like it. Some bare metal next and then maybe some mud. I played around with an idea for some mud that goes beyond paint. I mixed some brown craft paint with some ground ceramic bricks (Aedes Ars castle kit) and a dollop of glossy medium. It looks quite promising when I spread it around on a piece of cardboard to evaluate it as a base. I'll add some puddles using epoxy to enhance it a bit. Then the ditching beam, I should have some suitable spare wood lying around Thanks for looking Alan

The Whippet got its black primer coat and it looks like the small amount of filler on a couple of the seams was enough The machine guns might be a bit overscale but I think they will be better than home built ones I learnt today that the horizontal bars extending out of the front and rear hull are to allow canvas mudguards to be installed. Thanks for looking Alan

Hi Mark For a basic kit they do come together nicely. I think they are quite decent when painted. I think there is a Czech PE kit for teh Mark IV but I haven't been able to find it. Alan

Thanks OC. Its a tough choice the Fleet Air Arm or the Tank museum. Might have to try for both. Alan

Thank you for the great photo OC. The Bovington Whippet is one of the decal options in the kit. There are eight options. Five British, one German, one Soviet and one Japanese. The Bovington Whippet is the one Lieutenant Sewell was commanding when he won his VC. I read this snippet regarding the Whippets in action at Amiens. During this battle, one Whippet – Musical Box – advanced so far it was cut off behind German lines. For nine hours it roamed at will, destroying an artillery battery, an observation balloon, the camp of an infantry battalion and a transport column of the German 225th Division, inflicting many casualties. At one point, cans of petrol being carried on Musical Box's roof were ruptured by small-arms fire and fuel leaked into the cabin; the crew had to don gas masks to survive the fumes. Eventually, a German shell disabled it and as the crew abandoned the tank, one of them was shot and killed and the other two were taken prisoner.

Hi Mark Same material but different manufacturers so maybe there is something there. That's the problem, trying to decide which variable is the one giving trouble. I spent the afternoon trying to print the life raft supports and could not get a decent print. I swapped filament to no avail. Wondered about nozzle temperature and cranked that up, maybe its the print speed so slowed that down. That made things a little better but still didn't get a good print. Then you start to think; should I change the nozzle, is there a fundamental fault in the machine. Identifying the cause of the fault is not easy - at least to me. At least with Yves making the same model I can dismiss the print files as a source of error. I think teh ideal would be to have a friend next door with the same machine and filament to cross check performance and settings.😄 Alan

Thank you OC. I think I am going to finish building up the basic structures. I think they are all printed now and then take a break and work on a Flyhawk 1/700 or similar to get back to a more structured build. Right now I'm trying to print detail parts like the life raft supports and its proving almost impossible to get a good print so putting it away for a while might be helpful. Alan

I can't leave those Emhar boxes alone. While the parts were printing and the epoxy was drying for the corvette and the paint was drying on the Mark IV I took a peek in the Emhar Whippet box, I'm not sure if this is a later Emhar offering but the detail seems a bit better and the parts come sealed in a plastic bag with the instructions and decals. The instructions are simple but there are only about twenty parts For the Whippet a better attempt has been made on the Hodgekiss machine guns compared to the thick rods that represented the Lewis guns on the Mark IV. The tracks and running gear is a single moulding with a back side that closes it up. The fit is good; all the parts went together nicely once the sprue locations were cleaned up. So that's all the parts from the sprues used up And shortly afterwards its all together And off to be painted with black primer in the morning. Thanks for looking Alan

I wasn't very happy with teh overall appearance of teh olive drab; it seemed to be pretty bland so I mixed some buff into dilute olive drab and misted it onto the model It still wasn't what I wanted but there is a bit more depth so I repeated the process with more Buff in teh mix The photos all look very similar but in real life I think ether is more shadowing on the model. I'll work on the tracks next with a mix of mud, rust and bare metal. Alan

Thank you Egilman. This might be the model to experiment with muddying up. Alan

Thank you for the encoraging words OC. Sometimes I feel I am out of my depth with this one. Alan

I tried the BSI gold label CA and it definitely has lower odour. Its also very thin so just cutting the seal off the nozzle I got a liberal quantity all over my hands and the cutting board. So far no bad reactions so it either do cause less respiratory issues or I'm not as sensitive as I thought. I'm going to have to learn to use the stuff though I was struggling to pick it up and place it on the model; I usually use the thick style CA and dressmakers pins Alan

Hi Craig The printing is still a bit hit and miss. I finished up the reel of white filament printing some bollards and cleats which came out very nicely. Switched to a brand new reel of filament and without making any adjustments tried to repeat a print of the bollards - and they came out completely rubbish - the filament was separating from adjacent layers and there were gaps in the print. I moved onto some other parts and they are printing but again with gaps and a poor surface finish. Sometimes it feels like there are too many variables to control. Alan

The detail is spectacular and the PE is so clean and well done. Excellent work Alan

I started joining some of the deck sections using tabs made of scrap deck pieces. Out of curiosity I used a couple of drops of Tamiya plastic cement on one of the tabs and got a fast and strong bond with the deck piece to be attached. I was quite excited thinking I had found a simple and clean way to build up the superstructure and deck fittings. I find epoxy to be a bit imprecise and messy to work with as well as the nuisance of needing to keep mixing small quantities of the adhesive. I try not to use CA glues as I think I get a reaction to the fumes so this looked like a good option but when I tried to use plastic cement to edge join the walls of the chartroom it would not bond at all so I'm back to five minute epoxy. Printing continues with some of the smaller parts. In spite of occasional frustrations with the vagaries of the printer I am still fascinated by the parts it produces. Today I was working on the ships boats and ventilation cowls. The right hand boat is still in its supports and so is the white ventilator. These are easily detached and discarded. I think I am suffering from filament degradation. I am using a couple of reels that have been open for a while and the print quality is not good with poor adhesion between layers and very poor finish. I have cooked the white reel in a drying box for six hours and that seems to be printing very nicely again so hopefully the other reel will also respond to treatment. Looks like something to watch. The reels are about four months old and stored in sealed plastic bags. Alan

This has not been abandoned but progress remains very slow. I seem to spend a lot of time trying to work out how to approach the various elements of the build. I guess this is a lot nearer a scratch build than anything I have attempted so far. Reference material is sketchy and the kits generalizations are sometime a bit contradictory. The current task is shimming the decks to get a smooth run along the ship and at the right height; flush on the foredeck and level with the scuppers on the aft decks. I started building up some of the structures to get an idea of how things go together and also to stiffen the deck pieces at some points. Some of the kit parts fit beautifully; others seem to be less well done. When the deck sections for the foredeck are laid down there is a considerable overhand at the aft end. None of the plans that I have show this; they all show the foredeck finishing at the break to the main deck. So some trimming will be needed to bring it into line. Another anomaly is seen where the engine room roof is too long and runs over the aft end of the foredeck. Again it can be trimmed. However more studying of the various corvette plans suggest that, at least for Campanula and her batch of Flowers the funnel is too far forward. So, relative positions of the funnel and cabin, bridge all need to remain as the model is designed but I think I can introduce a space forward of the bridge which will push the funnel back to nearer its real position. That has the effect of extending the foredeck further back over the engine room and if the forward roof section is removed that will all fit together about where I want it. The overhanging part of the foredeck can then be reshaped to reflect the shape of deck seen on some of the modified Flowers. I think I will use plastic sheet of the appropriate thickness rather than try to print out something and shape it to fit. The scrapped deck sections that suffered from warping are proving to be very useful cut up into joining sections between deck pieces The batch of Flowers of which Campanula is a part had the short wooden side decks that start at the rear of the engine room. To accommodate the extra thickness of the wood I printed a second set of side decks and the aft part of the aft deck and then cut off the side pieces where the wooden deck will be installed. Once the decks are levelled correctly then the focus will be more on assembly of parts which should be rather fun now that most of the major decision making about layout etc. is complete. Thanks for looking in. I hope everyone has a great weekend Alan

Thank you very much Mike Alan

Thank you very much Yves. You set a very high standard to follow. I don't there is any danger of me fiunishing this any time soon. I seem to spend hours just moving bits around and reading up on teh real ships. Alan

OC, that looks great. Its worth having teh airbrush just for that finish. Alan

Thats a spectacular model Mike. The details are beautifully executed. Very impressive Alan