
king derelict
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The decals were added. I used a brown and a black wash to help the details. I used the rust brown overall for the tracks and used the Mig Oilbrushers Steel in very small amounts on the raised parts of the tracks and a few places where I though there might be wear like handles and hatches. I put a little light corrosion on the exhaust but otherwise left the hull alone. Egilman warns in earlier posts that these tanks were well maintained and kept very clean so I held back from any real weathering and damage. Thank you for the helpful comments and information. I find that due to overenthusiasm I have another box of two more FT17s so maybe I'll do a Polish one next. I hope everyone has a great weekend Alan
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Thank you for the kind comments OC. It was an enjoyable build and I like the sea base. She now resides on my book case; well lit and next to my reading spot. Alan
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I added some rust around the bow area , anchor and anchor chains and I think that is the model complete. I used the Vallejo Foam Effect water texture sparingly on a few of the wave caps and the bow wave. I tried to avoid the temptation to go wild with the stuff. Its not really foamy more like a thick white paint. I used a cocktail stick to apply it. Than it was time to cat proof the whole thing and put it in its case I need to work more on sea scapes and dioramas in general but I really enjoy doing then. Thanks to everyone who contributed with tips and information. Thanks for looking in Alan
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Well, I stared at this for a couple of days and looked at more photos of the real Flowers and decided that the hull red doesn't extend far enough up the hull at the midships and is a touch low at the bow. I re-masked the hull and I think this is better; its more in keeping with the photos I have checked against. I've painted the masking tape line with white to seal the tape down and once dry I can spray the hull red - again. Its probably easier than going the other way and trying to lower the height of the red paint. Thanks for looking Alan
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Today a package arrived from the nice people at Spruebrothers. The most important item in it was a bottle of Tamiya Hull Red. Figuring that the USPS had probably already done a good job of shaking the paint I loaded up the airbrush and laid the last coat on the hull. I was then able after two weeks of anticipation able to peel off the masking tape. Given the rough surface of the hull along with the panel lines I was highly nervous of this step but I was pleasantly surprised. I have a couple of very minor spots at the stern where the paint got under the tape a little but generally I am very happy. I think sealing the edge of the tape with the base colour really helped. Sorry about the dubious photos; this one is a bit bit to give the usual photo treatment to. Now I can start masking for the WA blue bits. I have two bottles waiting to be used so no problems there but I did start shimming the decsk to match up with each other and the hull and found I need a lot more plastic strips so another package is on teh way from Spruebrothers. I'm still getting used to the industrial level of logistics here Thanks for stopping by Alan
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Somehow it was decided that it was time to pressure wash the patio and the job spread to include the walkways and driveway. That rather cut into the day. However the running gear was installed in the tracks and the assemblies were added to the hull. Some detail painting and light weathering is next. One piece of PE, a box and a few decals and thats it. Thanks for looking in Alan
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I use cocktail sticks and beeswax. The beeswax is a bit stickier than the candle wax so you just need to roll the tip of the toothpick / cocktail stick on the surface of the beeswax and that is usually enough to pick up and hold the PE but let it go when it is in contact with the glue. If I am feeling creative I mark the non=sticky end of the stick with a felt tip of paint and then I can keep that clean so I can reverse the stick and have a poking end to adjust the part with no danger of lifting it back off. Alan
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The sand colour was applied to the hull and running gear. After 24 hours for the paint to harden I masked up for the next part Then sprayed the green and again waited for twenty four hours before the last masks were applied. The curved scissors are great for cutting and trimming delicate bits of mask. Then the final coat of brown and the masks were removed. It came out quite well with no bleeding under the masks and although the geometry of the camouflage scheme is not exact I think it is in the general spirit of the scheme. Some of the images of the French tanks show a black delineation line between the colours. At 1/72 that might be a challenge that I would rather side step. I sprayed a light rust onto the tracks and once the paint has hardened the subassemblies can be put together and the detail painting started. A couple of PE brackets and a box to add completes the parts count. Thanks for looking in Alan
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Thanks Craig, Modelling the sea is a whole new skill to learn. I would like to do more seascapes for the models but then I have to find somewhere to put them instead of just sticking them in one of the display cases. Alan
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I reduced some of the light blue areas and added some white dry brushed onto the wave peaks and into the wake. I put a coat of gloss medium over it all. The ship is placed temporarily just to assess the look I need to work on the bow wave next but I think its coming together. I think the foil under the toilet paper worked well; there are nno dead flat places on the sea surface. Thanks Craig. Thanks for looking in Alan
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